The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Andymat on July 15, 2021, 20:57:39 PM
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I have this pattern for a bath robe for my other half (Burda 6740 if you are interested). And I am trying to work out how much material to order.
The first issue is that there are 2 sets of material length requirements: 45ins/114cm and 55ins/140cm which I am guessing is the width of the material. Now my material comes in 150cm widths so hopefully I'll have a bit of extra leeway. Or is the 140cm quoted on the pattern the usable width discounting the edge bits which look a bit scruffy? (selvedge?)
The next problem is the pattern has a little triangle (with nap) on some of the dimensions and a little star (without nap) on others. Is nap the same as grain of the material? If it is without nap does it mean I can orient the material anyway I like?
Does towelling have a grain in the material. If this shows I am being incredibly stupid and all materials have grain, then I would guess that the grain goes parallel with the selvedge edge? This might explain why it seems I need what appears to me, a ridiculous amount of material!
The next problem is that we want to make the medium length gown but with a hood. The only version that does NOT have a hood. So I am going to have to make the long length one and cut it down at the pattern stage which shouldn't cause too much of a problem (famous last words!) although some of the material in the long one is a different colour and we are going to do it in all one colour.
(nearly there - honest)
The next issue is that I am making a Large and if I was to make one in the future for me (says he hopefully) it would probably be Medium. Is it normal to just cut out the size for now and if you need a different size in the future to buy another copy? I suppose if the Medium is fully within the parts of the Large, I wouldn't have an issue and could just cut the large down to a medium - but I'm not sure it all is. Perhaps that needs some thought before I start with my scissors.
The last issue is that our Springer Spaniel Millie is partial to a bit of tissue paper and loves ripping it up. So I am going to have to be careful when I cut it out when she is not around or in a mischievous mood. Wish me luck!
All help welcome as this pattern seems a bit more complicated to the T-shirts I did last. Many thanks.
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Others will come along later with more fluent answers than mine, but I can start you off.
140cm is the full width of the fabric, selvedge to selvedge so you should have some leeway if your fabric is 150cm.
It’s not usually good practice to use the actual selvedge edge.
You’re right about the grain, it is parallel to the selvedge.
The easiest way to think of nap is the texture on the surface of the cloth. Velvet, which has nap won’t match if the pile runs up in one piece and down in another.
Always follow the grain line on the pattern pieces and put them parallel to the selvedge. If a piece is cut on a fold, the fold should be parallel to the selvedge.
If you want to reuse a pattern in the future it’s best to trace off the size you need, keeping the original as a master pattern. It’s a bit of a faff but worth it for patterns you may want to use again.
You can buy dressmakers tracing paper but any paper you can see through can be used. In the past I’ve used cheap paper table cloths.
For your Burda pattern use View B and simply shorten the body pieces of the pattern to the length of View A before you pin them on your fabric.
The dog, I’m afraid is your problem, I’d just shut her out of the way but that might seem harsh to you.
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Oh wow - thank you @Ellabella.
That is really helpful. I like the idea of using paper table cloths to trace out the pattern for use from the 'master'.
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You can use the 140cm fabric requirements for the short gown but need to add some for the hood.
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I always trace patterns, I just write the size that I have traced off onto the tracing paper, along with all other details on the original. I double/triple check to make sure I have missed any important details, for instance, sometimes Burda do not include seam allowance on their patterns, so important to add that too. Good light is essential for tracing, along with keeping the tracing paper in one place while tracing - tinned food/beans/tomatoes etc are good for this too.
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OK - the pattern pieces do say 1.5cm seam allowances but I will check each piece as I go along. Double/treble checking does seem like a good idea.
If I use the longest version and cut it down to the middle length version I save 0.41m as the front and the back each save me 0.205m. but then I have to add material for the hood. +1.5m.
I think this is becoming clearer! Gradually.
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I would trace off the L and M on the same piece of tracing paper, cut the L then you can make a M later. Places where the M markings would be cut off when cutting L will need to be folded out of the way though so you might prefer to trace each size separately. I recommend buying Burda tissue paper, it's a lot stronger than paper tablecloth & easier to handle, transparent enough to trace easily with the pattern flat on a table. I've used paper tablecloth in the past but it kept tearing & I had to blue tak both pattern & paper upright on a big window as couldn't see through it otherwise. Seam allowances should be included on envelope patterns (they're not on patterns from Burda magazine). This will be in the instructions. Looking forward to seeing it completed!
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Watch out for the amount of fabric you need for the hood, as it can be surprisingly large. On a dressing gown it's likely to be a large slouchy hood rather than a small neat one, so try and get an idea of how much fabric is needed at the start.
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Measure twice, cut once :D
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Thanks everyone for your input.
@dolcevita Yes - looks like I need 1.5m extra for the hood. The hood is lined although that extra amount is just for the lining and the lapel bits!
Looks like I need to order 5m (strictly 4.79m). And it's beginning to sound expensive - over £60 for the material alone!
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Long gone are the days when sewing was dirt cheap and could save you a fortune over normal range clothing. Now the main place you can save is emulating high end boutique clothing and some designer stuff.
Nice fabrics for custom garments are going to often be pricey. However, you get the fun and satisfaction of creating a one off garment that no one else will have. I still remember this fantastic dress I bought in high school, perfect new shoes to go with it. Wore them the next day. Surprise surprise a class mate had done the same thing, even the same shoes. We had 3 classes together and lunch. After being mortified we got a good laugh and started coordinating when we would wear them. People had already thought we looked like sisters so we just went with it.
Little things like that encouraged me to make some of my clothes from an early age.
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Just wanted to chime in on the nap situation because some toweling, for instance french terry cloth, can have a nap.
If your fabric has a nap, each pattern piece must be laid out with the tops of each piece in the same direction (ie. top on the left bottom on the right.) If you goof and cut one piece in an opposite direction, once sewn together, the two pieces will look like the color doesn't match due to how light reflects off of it.
I've even bought cotton/poly twill fabric that had a nap. In almost 50 years of sewing I've messed up and not noticed the nap twice. Thankfully, that was back in the days of cheap fabric.
Keeping the grain straight is also extra important because cutting off grain can cause the same color problem.
But hopefully your first Burda goes better than mine. I bought a jacket pattern that had at least 13-14 pieces. Took forever to cut out. (And I was dealing with a nap - corduroy )After I finished, I decided to read the instructions. First sentence I noticed: "No Seam Allowance Included". Had NEVER encountered that before.
Luckily, there was another 3 yards on the clearance table - 50 cents a yard. $1.50 for nice fabric. I miss those days.
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@Andymat
Before you splash the cash, it's a good idea to set up a mock layout of pattern pieces if you can to check fabric required. I do this often, as all of the people that I sew for ( a very chosen few), are at least 6' tall and consequently need length added to most patterns.
Mark out, on the floor or other suitable surface , the width of your intended fabric and layout the pattern pieces as per the diagram in the instructions. You might find that even keeping to the constraints of grain lines and fabric directionality you don't need as much extra fabric as first you feared. Unles, of course, you're stash- building :ninja: :devil:
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5m sounds a lot of fabric…I’d lay out the pattern pieces on the floor and measure that way.
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You might consider buying bath sheets and using them instead of buying fabric. Bath sheets vary in size, so check the actual measurements and yes remember allow for the 'banding. 'Something like these Ikea ones on sale atm. Colour options are limited, but Navy and White available.https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/bredasund-bath-sheet-white-20415013/ Or these, a pair for £7.99 they are slightly smaller than the Ikea ones.https://www.studio.co.uk/shop/winter-warmers/winter-warmers-homeware/winter-warmers-bathroom/pair-of-kingsley-jumbo-towels-07060033?source=TK23&utm_campaign=PLA%20%7C%20Recruitment%20%7C%20Homeware%20%7C%20TK23&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6uaX9_rm8QIVTJ7tCh1KDQCxEAQYASABEgLpdfD_BwE
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Also, check around for cheaper places! I notice you are in North East, Immanuel's in Burnley is an Aladdin's cave of cheap, good quality fabrics! Also you have Abakhan up there, I know there is one in Bolton.
BB
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@Andymat roughly where are you in the North East?
Have you tried Fabworks in Dewsbury?
There are often fabric stalls in local markets, I think the wonderful Immanuels have a stall at South Shields and it is always worth looking in Boyes, there should be one near you if you are in the NE.
For your first attempts you are probably better using a cheaper fabric rather than trying to skimp on a more expensive one.
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@Andymat , hope I'm not repeating what someone else has said, but a good source of fabric for a practise garment (toile, muslin), is old duvet covers and sheets from charity shops. You should then get a proper idea of techniques, and sizing.
Jessie
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5metres? Get yourself some tent poles and then you can use the thing to go camping! Sounds a ridiculous amount of fabric unless you are extremely tall and very broad.
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When I trace a pattern (I just use artist tracing paper which I get by the roll), I do the grainline marking first. That way, I can use the grainline as a way to make sure that my tracing remains lined up with the original pattern piece as I do all the rest of the tracing.
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Thank you every one for your thoughts and help. It has all been very useful. :)
I have been a bit delayed by the idea of tracing the pattern - as it makes a lot of sense. I have some A2 layout paper which I have been using as it is quite thin but I have also seen you can get rolls of tracing paper in the internet which not only would be more transparent but also I wouldn’t have to stick several sheets together for most of the sections! Starting with the grain line is a very good idea @CCL.
I also found that Burda themselves sell sheets of paper just for this purpose (I guess) that are over 1m in size and should be big enough.
Still, I am getting there, gradually, as the only area I can do it is on the dining room table that we use for all meals so I have to clear everything away when we eat.
Good thought about using towels although the grain might not be in my favour.
I have also ordered some more bobbins as I am struggling. My mum used to put several colours over the top of each other on one bobbin as she had so few and I just think I need to fill a bobbin and dedicate it’s use with that thread. Life is too short!
I may be some time with this project as I have 100 other things I am trying to do at the same time but I will let you all know how I’m getting on occasionally. Once I have the material and the pattern pieces cut out it should not take too long (he says hopefully)! And of course, if it’s not a complete disaster I will show you how it turned out.
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@Andymat Quite right about the bobbins. A bobbin half full of other colours won't hold enough for a big project. I always keep one of white and one black so I'm ready for the odd repair jobs.
If it turns out a disaster, still post here. Someone may be able to help rescue it. Bet it won't be though!
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https://www.empressmills.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/5103/s/dressmakers-pattern-paper-plain-1-x-10m-prym/category/2/
or
https://www.empressmills.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/5527/s/dressmakers-pattern-paper-gridded-1-x-10m-prym/category/2/
are good stable solutions for tracing patterns.
This kind of thing is good for adding seam allowances or increasing/decreasing seam allowances as needed. Also great for precision pattern drafting:
https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/82638/pattern-making-equipment/mw/economy-grading-triangle
MacCulloch & Wallis also do French curves in various configurations - these are handy for adjusting armscyes (sleeve holes) and getting smooth curves elsewhere.
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Well, it is finally finished - See pictures.
Thank you @Kad - I did layout the pattern pieces on the floor to work out properly how much material I needed and it was very useful. This showed me that I needed 3.5m of material at 1.6m wide. But, the towelling I had in mind could only be sold in half OR one meter increments so I had to buy 7 lots of 0.5m or 4 lots of 1m and as the price for 0.5m was more pro rata, the price went up again together with a large amount for postage!
In the end I bought 4 bath sheets from IKEA (SALVIKEN) which were 1m x 1.4m each for £10 each which was not only cheaper than the towelling material but thicker (500GSM) and has towelling on one side and a waffle pattern on the other - lovely material. Thank you to @Sewbusy who suggested using towels instead of material. I went for Dark Beige colour and picked them up from our local shop (Gateshead).
Further, I used the edging of the towels to make the tie loops - the pattern said to make loops with several thread lengths and to cover using a button hole stitch knot which didn't seem to be so professional to me. I also cut down the washing info label and sewed it into the seam to remind us how to wash it. And I am also thinking of adding a hanging loop to the collar area using the loop provided with the towels - although the robe is pretty heavy.
Making it was a reasonable amount of work but as the pattern says it is super easy, so I can't complain. I did however have to look up what it meant by basting. Everything was basted and then sewed. I thought basting was something you did when roasting turkeys at Christmas! I did mostly baste the parts together but sewed direct from pinned in some easier cases. I'm sure I never saw my mum basting - she always sewed pinned pieces.
I am very pleased with how it turned out although it was a bit tricky sewing on the double layered hood to the body and the facings. 4 layers of material that I had to squash down with an iron to get it under the presser foot, even with the extra lift of the foot. The robe is really warm and the hood is lovely being two thicknesses but is huge and if I made it again, I might not do the version with the hood.
The material is actually two pieces connected together - it actually starts to come apart at the edges if it is left raw. The other thing about it is that the waffle side is quite easy to snag and I had to be careful when cutting out as the towels had several places where they were a bit damaged that I had to avoid. But I love the material and the finish - it seems like a bit of a step up from just towelling both sides.
Thanks to everyone who has offered help - it has all been very useful!
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@Andymat that looks really good. Waffle outer and towelling inner looks very good. You should be very pleased with yourself.
What’s next on the cutting table?
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Thanks @Ellabella, I am quite proud of it.
I am thinking about an apron. Have designed a simple one with pockets and have some light coloured Canvas type material. Will also have to work out what to do with all the towelling offcuts. Can you do quilts with towelling?!
I might even need to clean the sewing machine!!
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Definitely clean the sewing machine.
If you are going to make an apron you could use some of the towelling as a hand wipe panel, very useful.
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The robe looks great and the fabric is gorgeous.
With the off cuts, what about some reusable make up remover pads or some reusable kitchen roll squares? There are plenty of tutorials out there for them. You wouldn't even need a separate lining fabric as you could split your fabric into the waffle and towelling layers.
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That does look good and the fabric looks much posher than just buying towelling yardage.
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A very nice bit of corner reinforcement at the top of the pockets - not the easiest thing to do well. Good work!
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That looks great! A good idea to use towels instead of buying by the yard.
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Brilliant idea @Andymat and the robe looks wonderful.
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@Andymat An excellent result and I'm sure the experience was a great confidence booster.
I've been helped by the kind and knowledgeable members on here and it's nice to be able to do the same
I look forward to your next project/s.
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Super job @Andymat, using the towels was a great idea, well done.
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Great work @Andymat. Love your use of those Ikea bath sheets and sewing in the care instructions is just inspired.
bm
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Bueno, @Andymat - looks super!