The Sewing Place
The Emporia => The Show Must Go On => Topic started by: b15erk on January 24, 2019, 10:26:25 AM
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The lovely Lilya has asked if I can make her a Mary Poppins outfit for her Easter trip to Disneyland Paris, and I couldn't resist!
I've sourced most of the fabric I'll need, it's not perfect, but I hope it will make up well. I couldn't get anywhere near on the coat fabric, so settled for a Duvet cover which I hope will pass muster!
Dress Patterns are from the 80's and already cut as I made them for DD first time around. First one is Style 1117, and then for the bodice, Burda 5148.
The coat is a very basic Burda style 12/2012 #156 which I can tweak until I get what I want. I think the buttons may cause some head scratching though....
The bag will be and interesting project as I haven't made many bags. Lots of videos have been watched, and the first toile (just to sort the pattern), is underway. The fabric will be a mighty challenge of strip piecing - wish me luck!! :o :S
I'll put some pics up later, but that's it for now.
Jessie
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The biggest part of this project up to now, has been research, and mainly the bag! So, I've started that first.
I've chosen the Retreat Bag pattern as a starting point, and I thought it would be a good idea to reproduce (as far as I'm able), the fabric of the bag. Was I mad?
This is proving time consuming, and just getting the proportions right is a headache. Not to mention the fabric choices....
I've started by making strips for the front flap which I'm just going to sew over the main fabric, but I'm conscious of keeping the bulk down. The strips are being sewn onto some fabric I found in the stash which looks like a treated cotton, it holds its shape without being bulky, a good job really, as I don't need the bulk.
I've attached a pic of the strips I've done up to now. They're OK, but not quite there yet.... I'll probably use them to practise with?
Jessie
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Is this a surprise for Lilya? If not, perhaps she would like to "design" her own fabric with some fabric paints?
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D'you know SiT, that's not a bad idea.... :)
I think I've worked out the bag proportions, but the headache is, getting the fabric design to fit. I may just run it past her at the weekend.
Jessie
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When I was trying to rework the retreat bag pattern for some slightly different sized frames, I made a "toile" using brown paper. It was a bit tricky to get the frames in without ripping it, but it would make it easier for you to draft where the design features should go.
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Can I ask where you got the frame from SiT? I'm planning to use wire coat hangers, because I haven't seen a frame big enough.
Great minds on the practise bag! I've just cut a lining out and I've found some curtain remnants to use for the main bag. I should be able to position all the features this way.
Jessie
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I picked it up at Festival of Quilts a few years ago when I couldn't find the proper retreat bag frames, but I can't remember the supplier.
You can get larger hinged frames which are more traditional for carpet bags from various places (such as Bag Clasps) (https://www.bag-clasps.co.uk/tubular-frames-c21.htm) but you would probably have to change the casing size to accomodate them. However, they do snap shut quite nicely so you might not need a zip.
I used this type of frame when I was pattern testing a carpet bag pattern (https://sewlittletosay.blogspot.com/2013/04/easter-sewing-part-2-pattern-testing.html) several years ago.
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I saw the Mommy Poppins bag when I was rooting around for ideas, and it looks a lovely bag. Tbh though, the Retreat bag I think, will suit my purpose.
I'll be adding some pockets and other bits and bobs (after all Mary Poppins has to carry a lot of stuff!)
Fingers crossed the practise goes OK.
Jessie
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(after all Mary Poppins has to carry a lot of stuff!)
I think Mary Poppins would be better off with a trolley case so she doesn't do herself an injury carrying all that stuff 0_0
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:D :D :D
Jessie
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Progress is slow. My client Miss Lily Poppins came to be measured, and approved all the fabric choices and styles. We also decided on an extra outfit, a skirt and blouse style, to go under the coat.
The dress bodice pattern has been cut out, and a collar piece added. It looks as if it will do the job nicely.
Coat pattern next. I had a bit of a wobble when DD said Lil wanted the red coat, but when she saw the navy, she loved it. Phew...
Got to get some toile fabrics together today, and draw a skirt pattern piece.
Off I go! Spit spot! :) ;)
Jessie
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Phew!! That's 21/2 hours I'll never get back! Burda patterns on the multi sheet are the work of Satan!! It's left my eyes really sore, and I've needed copious drops.... but, it's done!!
I've now traced the basic coat pattern I'll be using for this project, and I can only see one alteration which will be needed - as long as the thing fits!!
I can now cut some toiles to get the size right, and to make some style changes. I'll be looking for some striped fabric so that I can get the stripes going as I want them.
The skirt and top I'm planning to make as a dress, and not separates, as it will be easier for changing purposes.
No sewing tonight. OH is treating us to dinner, so I may have a glass or two of the old vino collapso, and it won't be wise to be in charge of sharp scissors!
See you tomorrow gals!
Jessie
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@b15erk
Cheers - have a great evening.
Annie :toast:
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Had a lovely family meal last night although the roads weren't great, and people in cars were still being idiots - even in freezing fog!
I couldn't do anything when I got home as my eyes were too painful, but had an early night instead.
I found some suitable fabric for the coat toile this morning, and I've brought it into work - along with my pinking shears (it frays like the devil). So, that should be cut out later. I'm only doing the bodice for now, as the skirt of the coat is straightforward. I need to 'Poppins' the collar (just tweaking the style), but also, to make sure the stripes sit correctly.
I'll have a look for some toile fabric for the bodice later, but that should be pretty straightforward.
I may pop into my local fabric shop later as I have banking to do, just to make sure it's still there you understand? Certainly not to buy anything..... ;) ;)
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Well, I didn't manage to cut out the coat toile, I decided the fabric wasn't as suitable as I first thought, so I'll have to find something better - something I can make marks on, and which drapes like the 'proper' fabric.
Instead, when I got home, I cut out the dress bodice, and have nearly got it sewed together. From what I can see though, it looks a bit big. Lilya is quite petite, and very slim, although she has had a bit of a growing spell.... so, we will see when she tries it on.
I'll put some pics up later, but up to now it's gone together very well. I'm using the Burda 5148, with a small alteration to the shape of the bottom bodice.
More later.
Jessie
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Well, I went back to the original fabric, and glad I did. It looks very nice - just hoping it fits now!
I had a bit of an issue with the collar. It's an old Burda Magazine pattern, with minimal instructions and bare minimum pattern markings. Lots of unpicking, made worse because the fabric frays like the devil.
I also cut a skirt out, as I had an idea to turn the toile into a separate outfit if the fit was good.
This idea is turning into a serious possibility as DD informed me last night that Lilya is going to a Mary Poppins themed activity on Saturday. Can I finish a wearble garment in time??
We'll see.....
Pics to follow.
Jessie
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OK, Pics as promised.
Please feel free to make any suggestions regarding style/fit - I need the help on this.
Bear in mind it was only meant as a toile, so hasn't been 'finished' in any way, just a bit of O/L just to control the fraying.
Jessie
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Well, progress has been made! The blouse toile is looking OK, and I've figured out the sewing bit more or less. I actually like the tie dyed fabric I used, but it's the wrong colour....
Plus side: the style is good, although the collar needs some alteration. The flounces I cut for the collar, were better on the right side than the left, it just means I need to cut from smaller circles, and a pleat or two on the front corner would look better. The front band is a tad too wide, and the bow is too big, but both of those are details.
I'm pretty pleased though, although my fingers are crossed about the fit, it seems rather big. :S
It will be a faux blouse as it is, with the fastening being at the back and buttons for decoration at the front.
Any suggestions would be welcome!
Jessie
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On a roll, and plenty of ideas. Is that part of the reason for making the toile? Because as soon as my ideas moved from the paper pattern and notebook, to actually sewing, the ideas seemed a lot clearer. Proportions too were more apparent, and I need to scale some things down. I'll be making a few more of these blouses because they will be used in different ways.
The painted bodice is for the pink and white dress, so I have some time to figure that out (Easter deadline), but I now have a better idea of where I'm going with it after doing the toile. Many thanks to all of you who contributed to my other thread about painting fabric, it really helped me to see what is and is not going to be possible.
This particular outfit, is not really part of the MP ensemble, it's just using the toile to do a Poppin-ish costume for an activity on Saturday, so there is no pressure there. ;)
I've already cut out a blouse pattern using the bodice pattern as a base. I have an idea that if it is too big, I can alter it using the darts and taking them up into the shoulders - it does look quite wide. Other than that, it will be straightforward, just a cheap poly cotton print.
Spit Spot!
Jessie
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Not a lot done to the blouse yesterday. Busy at work, and then sore eyes when I got home...
I managed to do the darts though, and pin the sleeves in place ready for sewing. I'm hoping that I get a bit more done today, and at least have it ready to try on tonight. I'm doing a faux button band at the front, and poppers at the back - it is only a costume after all. So I've brought the snaps in to work to try them out.
Jessie
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I'm sure I saw an ad on to last night for a game show, The Chase, which had the clever question lady wearing a similar looking painted style blouse.
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Yes I did. I googled. Anne Hegarty. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=the+chase&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=nvi&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwifoYujg6rgAhWrShUIHWK_BDQQ_AUIFCgD&biw=768&bih=905#imgrc=7pH4PHLRt3LSDM
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Oh Wow! Thank you! Wonder if it's a new trend? Better get practising!
Jessie
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Blimey @fajita we watch The Chase every night and I had never noticed that about Anne`s blouse!
Jessie it`s wonderful to see you back on such good form!
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I'm a very Happy Nana this morning!
Lilya was over the moon with her Poppins outfit, although it's far from wearable - and the hat and gloves that Grandad ordered from Amazon make her look like OddJob!!
So, jobs for today, to make a wearable toile for tomorrow.
Take in both the blouse and jacket - through the darts will be best as the shoulders on both are too wide. Shorten and finish both off, and if I have time, add cuffs to the blouse. Lilya loves the big Leg o' mutton sleeves so I'll leave them (I was going to take some of the fullness out). I'm using poppers for both - the blouse is back fastening, and I'll use metal snaps, the jacket will have handsewn poppers so that I can sew buttons on top.
The skirt just needs the elastic making permanent, and generally tidying up. Lilya loves the tiny 'bustle' arrangement at the back. I may also look for something buckle-like for the front waistband.
I would like to make her a petticoat, but doubt I'll have time.
Weekend jobs - dress toile, and cutting the coat out in the Poppins fabric!
I would like to make her a petticoat, but doubt I'll have time.
Jessie
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Looks lovely and you can tell how pleased she is with it.
If they remake Goldfinger in the near future, you will have the startings of another dressing up outfit ;)
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That’s absolutely fabulous Jessie!
Wonderful to see the smile on Lilya’s face she couldn’t have a better Nana.
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Oh love her! Just look at her little face, she is delighted! And so she should be. The outfit looks fab Jessie!
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Oh that's so lovely! And your little granddaughter is so thrilled, what a lucky little girl she is to have such a wonderful granny xxx
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That's lovelyJessie.
I'm a bad Grandma as I used to buy ( they're too old for dressing up now ) dressing up outfits from Asda / Sainsburys. :devil: But then, I can't really sew properly ;)
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Well, I finished this little outfit, but the Poppins event didn't materialise, so it's still hanging up in the sewing room, but, after making alterations I'm hoping that the fit will be vastly improved. I found a bit of red taffeta to make a bow for the blouse, but the next one doesn't need to be quite so big! ;)
I spent yesterday practising my frills an flounces, and cutting out the bodice of the prototype pink striped dress. The fabric is a slippy slidey poly crepe, so I've interfaced the bodice parts, and I'll be interfacing the top part of the sleeve as well, to help the puff out.
I've got a good idea of how the frills will work now, but with this fabric, they may need interfacing as well - unless I use a layer of net under each frill....
I've added a few finished pics....
Jessie
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I don't believe it!!
I know it's only a toile, and I know the proper outfit will have a plain bodice, but I did want this to be a dress which could be used in the dressing up box, and so I took time interfacing the bodice, and placing it on the stripes to get a chevron effect front and back.
Well, I did it with a bad back and very sore eyes (get the violins out), and this is the result.
It looks like a candy cane!
Arrggghhhh! :angry:
That'll teach me!
Jessie
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Oh no Jessie - does this mean you aren`t practically perfect in every way?!
(Still looks very good to me)
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The project went a bit quiet last week as I had sore eyes. But, I was up at stupid o'clock on Sunday and just crashed on with the skirt.
I decided to build it onto a base, and used a sturdy cotton for this (sheeting). It's worked well, and the only problems I've had have been in the order of work, and the shortage of the main fabric. It's also pulled in a bit, and looks as if it may be a bit snug, so I've decided to put a placket at the side opening and I'll leave it unfinished for adjustments.
The bow is separate atm until I work out how to attach it, although I'm really pleased with how it looks.
The only thing I'm not too happy with is the front swag(?), it should drape, but isn't doing so. Any suggestions?? I've tried a different option, but not too keen on how it looks. I have virtually no fabric left, so I'll have to be a bit inventive here.
The lining still needs to be attached, waistband and plackets done, but the decision on the front swag will need to be done before I do any of that.
This was meant to be a first toile, but I'm rather hoping it fits, because it drapes so nicely. The other fabrics I have will not drape half as well.
Jessie
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That's looking fab Jessie. What is the fabric? The only thing I can suggest for the swag is to wash it several times if it is a fabric that will go softer and drape better after washing.
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The drawn picture looks as if it would need a lot more fabric in the length to achieve those deep folds. The only thing I can think of is to do lines of gathering across the area where you want the folds so that the areas between would puff forward. Does that make sense? At least if it didn't work you could pull it out and you're no worse off.
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Plosh, it's a very fluid fine crepe fabric. It hangs beautifully but isn't great quality, and I had to use spray starch to make it behave.
I'm going to have a look to see exactly how much fabric I have left, and give it another go.
Jessie
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I think it looks fine Jessie. No-one else will know that it is not how you want it, only the perfectionist in you (not meant as a criticism!)
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Too lat Missie - I've just removed the offending 'swag'.
Just Googling how to correct it! ;) :S
Jessie
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No idea if this is of any help at this stage [first time I've seen this thread I think]. It was usual to conserve fabric by making the concealed parts of the lower skirt out of any old plain fabric, as it would be covered by the sway/apron.. Perhaps you could salvage a bit?
Otherwise, perhaps using some plain fabric with the striped part, do a bit of dark-sidery, and go for it. the stripes will look asymmetric once you're finished anyway, and you could gain quite a bit of extra yardage that way.
Underlining also often helps with the drape, as does a bit of judicious bias and [as mentioned before] some hidden stitches here and there to catch it all in place
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Thank you all, some great advice here. :) I've made a few adjustments and fingers crossed they will improve things. I'm loathe to cut anything off the apron (swag) (thanks DF), as I have so little fabric left, so I will put a few stitches in here and there. I have also interlined the swag piece to try to help it drape a little better.
I can't do anything more as I need to do some work today!
I'll have another go tonight.
Jessie
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I'm failing miserably with the drape on this front piece. Apart from not draping well, it's hanging too low. If I gather the sides to shorten it, it shows the under fabric.
So, I spent some time piecing leftovers to cover the yoke shaped bit at the top, so that no white will peek through. Still not figured out the drape, but at least there will be no white flash if the underneath peeks through.
I think this may return to being the first toile.... :S
Jessie
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This project has lapsed shamefully, overtaken by other more urgent projects at work and home.
But, it is urgently needed for World Book Day on Thursday, so I sprinkled Duracell dust on my toast, and got stuck in at the weekend.
First job was to fix the 'apron' draping. It took ages but it looks acceptable now, but will have to be discretely stitched to hold the drape.
Next up the collar. What a faff and a fiddle, it took me several hours to get the front to look as I wanted. I'd also planned to put the sleeves in, but that didn't happen. I'll do that today.
I'm seriously thinking of using an elasticated waistband, I think it will take the weight of the skirt better. We'll see...
Jessie
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No further on I'm afraid - work intervened, and my eyes were so sore when I got home that I couldn't do any last night.
However, I am hopeful that today I will make progress. I have the plumber coming to the house at 2, so that means leaving work early :), so I may, will get further on.
I did manage to order buttons, but I am aware that they may not arrive in time, so I may have to use what I have. -<
Wish me luck. :S
Jessie
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That outfit is looking gorgeous, I hope you manage to finish in time.
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I made a huge effort yesterday after leaving work an hour early, and the outfit is very nearly finished.
I may have to leave the buttons as they haven't yet arrived. I'll have a look at Dunelm later when I go for narrower elastic for the waistband.
I need to make a bow for the blouse, stitch the waistband on, and insert the elastic. I can't attach the back bow as I haven't brought it to work, so that will be a rush job later before we go to DD's. Oh, and I nearly forgot, I need to attach the poppers at the back of the blouse.
Very bitty things, and it would only take an hour or so if I was at home with all my stuff around me, but I'm at work, with just some odds and ends of habby to call on. :(
Wish me luck....
Jessie
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Well, WBDay has arrived - and I finished it! Well, it has no buttons - they didn't arrive, but they are just for show, so no great loss. I left out the back darts, just in case it was too tight - I always think things are going to be too tight, but I'll put them in later I think, as the bodice is plenty big enough.
Skirt is a little loose but much better on an elastic waistband, and I can take it in a bit before she goes to Disney.
All in all, I'm quite pleased with this, and Lil was delilghted - although she will probably be doing hand stands in it in the playground before the day is out!
I can move on to the coat and bag now.
A few pics for you - hair and make-up did an excellent job, and mummy and Lil made the hat. Theo looks distinctly unimpressed by the whole thing...
Jessie
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Jessie, as always that is magnificent. What a lucky girl she is. I was thinking about you this morning when they were showing pictures from viewers on bbc breakfast - you should have sent one.
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She looks wonderful - and Theo's expression is priceless!
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Jessie that outfit is pure joy.
Best Nana of the Year is yours for sure. 0_0
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I second all of that!
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Lovely dress and if there isn't a book called "The Distinctly Unimpressed Penguin" I think there should be.
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Oh, that's lovely...it's really made me smile. She's so sweet and she looks so happy.
Sandra.
xxx
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Girls you are, as always, very kind. It wasn't a difficult make, just fussy.
On to the coat and bag now!
Jessie
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Oh Jessie, that outfit is absolutely wonderful, Lilya looks delighted - she is one very lucky young lady.
Must admit I have not seen anything about the new film on Mary Poppins, however the dress and the hat look just right for the era - so very well done to you. Hope this has really triggered off your return to sewing, and of course that you are enjoying all of this - what a way to start.
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You've done a grand job.
I hadn't realised how popular MAry was until today (world book day at school). The first three pics I saw on Facebook were of little MP's, and there were endless versions at school.
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AArrrgghh!!
Just started to cut out the coat, and after fiddling with the diagonal stripes (bad light+bad eyes = stress), I got the bodice cut out. And guess what? I forgot to add the seam allowances...
AArrgghh!!
Jessie
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Noooo, do you have enough fabric to recut?
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I do Mal, but doing the diagonal stripes was hard going as it was difficult to see them.
I've decided to treat this as a second toile - just the bodice, and see how it shapes up. There are a few design tweaks needed, so it won't be too much of a waste.
Very frustrating though...
Jessie
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This is why this coat should have been a toile!
Too late now, it's all but finished. There was a lot more work in this than I thought there was going to be, and I was working with just one try on...
Never made a coat before, so I'm listing the areas of this particular one, which although not difficult, needed to be tried on.
Firstly, the fabric is rubbish. The only way to get the stripe effect I wanted, was to buy a duvet cover, which creases like hell. Anyone know if there is something I can iron on which may help?
Then the waist position. I think it's a little low, but until I try it on, it would be daft to make any alterations. Same with the belt. It looked fine, flat on the ironing board, but looks far too wide when it's hung up.
I'm putting pics up, and I would value your honest opinions.
There will be quite a lot of work involved in unpicking - and I'm not doing that until I try it on Lilya.
Your thoughts and ideas would be welcome.
Jessie
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Would a good spray with starch help? Duvet covers aren't the most substantial fabric.
I really think you need to reserve judgement until you have seen it on her, it may be a whole heap better than you think.
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I'm afraid... that it looks fantastic to me. How many fancy dress costumes have linings like that one!?!
Spray starch might help with the creasing (which I can't see in the pictures).
Well done!
[Cross-posted with Ploshkin.]
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Hard to tell from a photo but it does look a bit low-waisted. I haven't seen the original that it's taken from though so I don't know what it's supposed to be like. You could try spray starch on it but I don't think that would prevent it from creasing. The only other alternative I can think of would be some light-weight interfacing on the back of any accessible pieces. You've made a lovely job of it though - I'm sure Lilya will love wearing it and won't notice any of the things that are worrying you!
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A very huge OH NO moment last night.
I'd forgotten the capey thing that goes over the top of the coat!! Easily sorted, but it shouldn't have happened. I've got plenty of fabric left, and I've just drawn up a pattern. I think I'll use poppers again to attach it.
Greybird, it does look long waisted, but I couldn't try it on Lil, and I'd left my notebook at work (it's got all the measurements in it). So, I've now found the notebook, and if it doesn't look right, I'll unpick it and try again before tomorrow.
I'm thinking of buying the bag though, work isn't going well on it, and time is moving on...
Jessie
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I had an hour free at the end of the day yesterday, and took the coat apart. Just at the waist.
Took it up to DD's for a try on, and I'm glad I did, it would have been far too long.
Now I have to take an inch off the bodice, and sew it all back together - including the fiddly faux belt.
Then the cape thingy to cut out, I forgot it's a double layer, so not sure about lining it...
Jessie
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* An inch removed from the bodice length
* Sleeves joined to the lining - from the inside ;)
* Bodice re-joined to the coat skirt
Whew!
Today's job. Re-join the faux belt, and add the buttons and poppers. This is quite a long fiddly job, but hopefully I'll get it done at work.
Then, onto the double cape. It won't be difficult, but I don't want it to be too heavy, so I may have to do it unlined.
Fingers crossed there are no more major alterations.
Jessie
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TaDah! Finished!!
Forgot to take pics of the back, and it doesn't look great on a hanger as it's quite heavy, but it's done!
Next pics will be on my lovely model!
Jessie
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Jessie that's brilliant. Can't wait to see it modelled!
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It looks great Jessie. A labour of love.
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I thought this thread would be finished as I had decided to buy a bag from the Disney shop. So, I Googled and found what I wanted, £26 + p&p, but needs must. They Haven't Got One!! :S :'(
Back to Plan A. I've brought all the bits components, in to work, to see what I can cobble together.
Plan B is to give DD some cash, and see if they are in stock at the Disney shop in Paris. :(
Jessie
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It's almost done. A gruelling weekend sewing this, I knew it would be, but hadn't realised exactly how much work there was to do.
I was so pleased with myself, until I realised that I'd cut the zip too short... :S Only realised when I'd sewn everything up and turned it through. :S It's totally affected how the bag should look, but I have no time to fix it as it will be on it's way to Disney Paris on Tuesday.
So here it is. I have to put rivets in the handles, and stitch the inside bottom (where you pull everything through). The first pic is the actual bag from the film.
Oh, and there's a pic of the newly repaired Belle dress.
Jessie
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@b15erk Great Job on the bag Jessie! Really impressive... are you going to auction it on ebay afterwards as a "Mary Poppins Replica bag"? (I bet you'd get a lot of interest.)
The yellow dress is so pretty!
You put me to shame - all I've done this weekend is housework, some decluttering, cooking and surfing ebay (which I'm now addicted to, I frankly admit :o). Nothing creative, I'm afraid :|.
Annie x
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Brilliant Jessie! It's all been said before but you really are a prize-winning Grandma!
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The bag is amazing. People will be too busy marvelling at the fabric to consider how the zip should have looked.
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Great mix of tucks and embellishments - lovely.
I like your take on the bag too, the mix of fabrics gives an excellent impression with a clear nod to the original rather than a reproduction so whatever difference the zip makes has no impact in my eyes either.
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Well done Jessie. I daresay it will be the best Poppins bag in Disney Paris.
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Yet again you girls have made me feel better about a project that I felt had failed, a huge thank you for that. I've stressed all weekend about this bag.
Lilya and Theo will get some leftover Euros to spend in Disney Paris, and maybe she'll buy a Poppins brolly!
Off to look at some 'rivetting' YouTube vids... Geddit?
Got to rivet those handles.
Jessie
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Jessie, was it not you who recommended the Prym Vario Pliers. They do rivets.
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It was, and I've brought them in to work Plosh. I just can't remember how to use them! :S YouTube is my memory! ;)
Jessie