The Sewing Place
Tools of the Trade => The Haberdashery => Topic started by: Irishseahorse on July 03, 2020, 12:39:53 PM
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I'm still a novice, but I want to break away from shop bought patterns and either amend those patterns or start from scratch (initially copying shop bought items of clothes I love).
It looks like I'll need some sort of ruler with curves but I'm not sure where to start, a french curve or something like the Prym dressmakers ruler.
I can't work out the main difference/advantages of each. I would really appreciate some pointers.
Thanks!
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A French curve (https://madetosew.com/product/sew-easy-french-curve/) or pattern master (https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/pattern-master/) is actually very useful even for those of use who use patterns. I trace mine and these tools are great for armholes or anything that is curved. I bought both of mine from Morplan (https://www.morplan.com/) because I live in London and was able to go to the shop.
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Neither are necessary , they’re both basically the same thing....just a normal ruler would do. I find a flexible curve is more use when drafting patterns.
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I've got a curvy thing (no idea of it's proper name!) but find it's rarely the curve I need - what is the flexible curve that you use @Efemera ?
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I bought a French curve a few years ago, having never used one previously. It's useful for lots of things: tracing patterns, drawing and altering armscyes and, in particular, adjusting necklines. If you have a garment with a neckline you like, you can use the French curve to replicate it by positioning the curve to coincide with the neckline and noting the numbers.
I've used it more than I anticipated.
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I've got something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/French-Drafting-Drawing-Stencil-Templates/dp/B00P7V95LW/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=french+curve+set&qid=1593783695&sr=8-24
and this
https://www.fredaldous.co.uk/products/pattern-maker-metric
I rarely use the curves but until now I must admit that I'd forgotten about them - thanks for the reminder and I didn't buy them from Amazon, can't remember where. I'm using the FA one at the moment to alter a pattern.
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I have always wanted a French curve but never got round to getting one. When I want to draw a curve, I use a saucer/cup/bowl/glass/plate to draw round and link up straight lines on the pattern. Which of them I use depends on the "tightness" or otherwise of the curve I want.
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I have a Patternmaker which I bought from Morplan and I find it very useful not just for curves as I can mark bias on it as well.
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@b15erk pointed me to this helpful video about how to use a French curve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUG3P31BqNw
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I have the Morplan patternmaster (which I bought online millions of years ago) and I love it. It has straight edges, angles, the curves of a french curve, and more), it also has 0.5 cm increments up to 6cm I think it is using the straight edge, which is excellent for adding seam allowances quickly and easily. Other than my metre rule, it is my most used measuring implement and is in fact used more than my rule. Definitely worth the money.
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I have the morplan pattern master, a cheap set if French curves and the dressmakers ruler. I can't remember the last time I used the ruler. However the pattern master i use quite a bit, and the French curves every time I draft something.
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jakarflex-Flexible-Curves-Drawing-Drafting/dp/B01DWEZ4DS/ref=asc_df_B01DWEZ4DS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=419361723070&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14285954406033771254&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073602&hvtargid=pla-880312370544&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=90487309370&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=419361723070&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14285954406033771254&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073602&hvtargid=pla-880312370544
@Bodgeitandscarper
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I treated myself to the new Shoben Pattern Shaper after my Fashion Curve cracked. I had it for years but this new one is great. I love the seam allowances marked, the curves, the fact that can you measure from a mid point to either end.
I also have a SewEasy french curve and curve ruler. Unfortunately they’re both imperial and I draft in metric. But they have their uses. I also have a flexible curve but don’t use it a lot for pattern alterations. I find it useful for measuring curves as mine has centimetres marked along it. Beats using a tape measure.
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Thanks @Efemera , I thought that was what you meant, now I wonder if I still have the one I had years ago... probably not...
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I wouldn't say a French curve is a must-have tool, but it can certainly be very useful. It depends on the type of sewing you do.
Mine rarely sees the light of day, as I only use it if I'm making hemline alterations where the flow of the garment wouldn't look right if I simply chopped 2 inches off all round. The last time I used it must be over a year ago when a colleague requested an alteration to a maternity dress.
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I have a patternmaster which is metric, and I use a lot, but I also have a French curve which is imperial - and I find this much better because my mind works in imperial. :) I bought the patternmaster first but it never occurred to me at the time that metric would be annoying.
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Thanks guys, really helpful feedback. I love the fact that the first post suggests I get both and the second post suggests neither! This sums up dressmaking in a nutshell for me as a novice! I think it's my mathematical background where something is either right or wrong, but in dressmaking there's not always a 'right' answer, drives me bonkers!
Still, we learn from the mistakes right? The video is very helpful and clearly explains the benefits of using a curve. I think I'm just going to have to start experimenting. Anyone have any other resources for making your own patterns or adjusting existing patterns? There's so much I don't know!
Thank you all for sharing your insights. I'll let you know how I get on.
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The best and easiest pattern drafting book for beginners is this one..
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Pattern-Cutting-Womens-Wear/dp/1444335057/ref=asc_df_1444335057/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=311325854090&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7294146727323510129&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073602&hvtargid=pla-332578074636&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
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I'll be honest, I use the Dritz Styling Design Ruler more then anything else, and I have all the tools.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dritz-Styling-Design-Ruler-White/dp/B001BDEOVG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=dritz+styling+design+ruler&qid=1593848959&sr=8-1
I find this, and L square and the one that Suzy Furrer sold to be the ones I use most. The larger rulers come out most for formals because they're sometimes a bit unwieldy.
I'll also be honest, I use Imperial and metric interchangeably, so I never pay much attention to the markings, it is what's on it and I go as it says. Oh I need 2" here, or 5 CM...to me it doesn't matter much. Half my tools are one or the other (depending on ease of finding them, and in the US that is usually Imperial), but then my education is in metric.
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My Sew Easy ruler is pretty much the same @Kwaaked and I love it for curved hems and side seams. It was a present from my tutor but it’s imperial so don’t use it a lot for measuring. I can use inches and like you often go from one to the other but generally use metric.
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That's okay, I was making a pattern for masks for my DD, DH and MIL (and my Aunt in law for that matter) in 3 different styles/sizes and one side of my ruler is metric and the other Imperial. I'd set it down, pick it up and use it.
I am also left handed, so for some unknown reason, I kept putting it to the right.
Every time I picked it up, I went to a different side so each line is a guess on which measurement I used.
@Ohsewsimple I'm the opposite. I grew up with Imperial pretty much only, so I revert to it generally. Except when I am using European drafting stuff. And men's wear, since all I did learn was metric in that and to be honest, tailoring in metric seems to be better then Imperial.
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Thank you on and all. Finally took the plunge this morning and bought a pack that contains a right angle, ruler, french curve and a couple of other curves. It's a cheap set, but I figure I'll see what I use the most and get a better quality later. I also bought the book that @Efemera suggested. I think that will propbably be more helpful than most of the curves. Thanks again for your insights!
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The best and easiest pattern drafting book for beginners is this one..
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Pattern-Cutting-Womens-Wear/dp/1444335057/ref=asc_df_1444335057/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=311325854090&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7294146727323510129&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073602&hvtargid=pla-332578074636&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
Ok, I'm going to add to the there is no-right-or-wrong answer. But I hate Winnie. I learnt to pattern cut using Helen Stanley. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flat-Pattern-Cutting-Modelling-Fashion/dp/0748704272) I then moved to children's pattern cutting, which meant Winnie and it was by far a less easy book to follow. Helen Stanley is laid out well, and clear to follow, much more user-friendly than Winnie.
The other one that gets high praise is Natalie Bray. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Natalie-Bray/e/B001IYTOXQ%3Fref=dbs_a_mng_rwt_scns_share)
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You're right, @Missie there isn't a right or wrong answer to drafting and tools. Even here, we all use a variety.
As to systems, I use a men's wear book from Italy (I have a copy of the book the old man had in Men of the Cloth documentary, Moda Aloi - Il Taglio del sarto moderno ca. 1933 and use that one to draft men's wear for the most part...I learned the German Muller und Sohn so menswear is centered totally in European methods), learned Helen Armstrong in school and use a cross of Connie Crawford, Furrer, Alderich and Soviet Era methods (weird cross of Euro-American methods) and draping didn't hit home (Armstrong) until I started watching Nick Verreos on You Tube, University of Fashion and got a cross of books from the 40s-70s.
We all find what works best in what we do, even with tools.
@Irishseahorse I have the Fairgate Fashion carry all from Wawak, which I needed for school and I use the half size L square and cuff ruler from it. I use the vary forms in other tools and the french curve I use the smaller one from Lutterloh more then this one. Tools are a lot like systems: we all find what works best for what we are doing.