I'm in the middle of creating stand up collars for a couple of leotards and am just wondering what you all think of my construction plan - and if anyone has any better way to do it. 

These collars will be open, rather than the type that encircle the neck. Ive attached two photos of Polina Schmatko and Ksenya Moustafaeva in leotards with collars that are a little bit similar to what I am aiming for in terms of the open front but mine will be simpler!. (These amazing leotards were made by the Russian designer/maker Svetlana Gerasimova).

One will be a bit like a mandarin collar that is open at the front - very simple. The other leotard is to have applique like petals and giuypure lace that stand up against the sides and back of the neck but open at the front. I dont want to applique onto full mesh collar as the gymnast wants it open at the front.  I know how to pattern cut colllars, how to pattern cut and sew for stretch and how to work with appliques and some 3d elements but Ive not made a collar like that on a leotard before and just wanted a second opinion.

My plan is just to create a base 3/4 width collar in two layers of lycra and some powermesh and to use that as the base. I will draft it with some -ve ease - maybe 5 - 10 % but not too much since it will be open. However I think it needs some -ve ease so that it will stand up against the neck. I was thinking to attach it in the normal way for a stretch collar - giving it a bit of stretch when sewing it on and topstitching the seam to the leotard to help the collar stand up.  What do you think?

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I recently finished this leotard for rhythmic gymnastics. It has about 300 separate fabric and lace pieces - main pattern pieces and lots of leaves and petals. I used acid dye and jacquard paints to make most of the petals and dye some of the fabrics. It was a lovely project to work on. However there are some things Id like to change but it but its not something you can unpick very easily to alter!! Pics in the attachments.

Hi Everyone,
Hope you are enjoying Easter weekend. The foot controll on my Bernina 330 has stopped working. It had been odd in the past - id press on it and nothing would happen, do it again and it would be fine. The machine works using the stop start switch. Im not sure, though, whether it is the machine itself or the foot pedal. Im wondering if anyone else has experienced this or if its a known or common problem?

Hi, I make some dancewear and used to chat on the dancewear strand of the UK Sewing Forum. I'm trying to to make some pull on sports/dance bras and cropped tops. I don't mean the full on bras but more like a very supportive the cropped top, if that makes sense. I have been using an outer of medium weight lycra (82% nylon 18%elastine/lycra) with 2 layers of medium powernet (18% nylon 13% lycra) inside but I find that it is still bit too stretchy and I think that the front needs to be lined with something that has only a small amount of stretch - ssay 20% stretch.  I have made a couple of underwider bras in the past but the tricot I used to line those cups had no stretch so I think that would be no good. I also want to make ones that are not too thick or hot so I'd rather not be using the double layer of powernet if possible. Im going to try a really firm powernet but in the meantime I wondered if anyone has made sports bras and can suggest lightweight breathable fabrics to try that would give a firm less stretchy lining to the top? Looking at pull on sports bras in the shops they seem to be made with firm knit fabrics (along with standard lycras and powernets), but Im not sure what these firm knit fabrics are called or where to find something similar! I had a look on sewing chest but wasnt sure what fabric to look for. Thanks very much, Al.