The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Patterns Discussion => Topic started by: Lemon Syllabub on March 06, 2021, 16:19:41 PM
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Just wondering if anyone has tried this pattern (https://oliverands.com/shop/digital-chaval-coat-sewing-pattern.html) ?
I saw this blog post (https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2019/12/liesls-chaval-coat-extra-long-navy-edition.html) and really like the idea of a long drapey coat for Spring.
(Minus the buttonholes and pocket flaps….. my hips really don’t need pocket flaps! :rolleyes:)
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It's not my think - reminds me of a red lab coat - but there are two reviews (https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/98804#pattern-review)on PR.
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Just wondering if anyone has tried this pattern (https://oliverands.com/shop/digital-chaval-coat-sewing-pattern.html) ?
I saw this blog post (https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2019/12/liesls-chaval-coat-extra-long-navy-edition.html) and really like the idea of a long drapey coat for Spring.
(Minus the buttonholes and pocket flaps….. my hips really don’t need pocket flaps! :rolleyes:)
I love a long drapey coat. I like a traditional structured coat like this pattern is designed to be. I don't think it transitioned well to being a drapey coat. Sort of lost something in the translation.
Take a look at the Cambria Duster (https://fridaypatterncompany.com/products/cambria-duster-pdf-pattern) from Friday Pattern Company. It's an unlined duster and I've seen some nice drapey versions online. The sample is a little stiff I think. I've seen the actual fabric and while lovely it cries out for topstitching. A gal taught the class here and it's really lovely IRL.
If you like it Creativebug has a class. You can join for free for 30 days and the pattern is a free download for the class. Lots of other patterns you can download while you're there and you can watch all the classes time allows.
Anyway I think you can find a pattern better suited to being a drapey coat than this one.
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I like it!
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- reminds me of a red lab coat -
Now you've said it I'm also thinking medical coat!!!
The doctor will see you now...... Not that that's likely in the UK at the moment! :boohoo:
@Renegade Sewist Thanks for the info. The pattern looks fab.... and it's free!!! :thumbsup:
@Helen M Yes, I like the idea of a long style coat. :)
It's great to get other people's opinions. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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@Lemon Syllabub I meant to add that a coat like that pulls any outfit together. I'm a 'coat person' because of that, even if it's a puffer coat!
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@Helen M It's good to know what you like. I think I'm probably a 'long cardy person' so I'm drawn to anything I think looks like a long cardy! :)
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If you want a more casual looking coat, how about the more modern cocoon shaped coats that are around at the moment? I made a Burda one a little while back and I wear it a lot, or as much as one can wear a coat at the moment. I wasn't sure that I'd be able to grade it for my pear shape, but I got away with it (at least 2 or 3 sizes bigger at the hip than the shoulder) and it's very comfy. I posted about it here (https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,11321.msg205577.html#msg205577).
I've also got another new coat on the go, but it's waiting for the right lining to come along; again, it's a Burda pattern and, again, more cocoon shaped and using giant snaps rather than buttons, details here (https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,12008.msg221451.html#msg221451).
I agree with @Renegade Sewist that the more traditional notched collar design looks better with structure; I think without the necessary underpinnings, it just looks badly made. The slouchy part comes from how you style it more than how it's made, I tend to think.
Stylearc have lots of slouchy coats - I have their Parker coat (https://www.stylearc.com/shop/pdf-sewing-patterns/parker-coat-pdf/) pattern, which is a fabulous slouchy, casual coat and a modern interpretation of a notched collar. The patch pockets give it a more casual look, too, and there's enough going on that it doesn't really emphasise hip width.
I just love a new coat. 0_0
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@Lemon Syllabub only free if you join Creativebug, even if just the free trial. Otherwise it's $14 to $22 depending on source. I was getting ready to buy the Cambria when they added the class. I've been a Creativebug member for over 3 years and feel like it's been worth it. Nothing like taking a short class from a patterns designer.
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Take a look at the Cambria Duster (https://fridaypatterncompany.com/products/cambria-duster-pdf-pattern) from Friday Pattern Company. It's an unlined duster and I've seen some nice drapey versions online. The sample is a little stiff I think. I've seen the actual fabric and while lovely it cries out for topstitching. A gal taught the class here and it's really lovely IRL.
@Renegade Sewist In the real life version you saw, did the sleeves still have those twisting diagonal drag lines or did the maker adjust the pattern. There does seem to be a lot of twist on those sleeves - more than is usual on an unstructured / relaxed fit.
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@Renegade Sewist In the real life version you saw, did the sleeves still have those twisting diagonal drag lines or did the maker adjust the pattern. There does seem to be a lot of twist on those sleeves - more than is usual on an unstructured / relaxed fit.
@Morgan , good eye. The real life one I saw they had sourced the same fabric and it might have done the same. It's the fabric, not the pattern. That is a heavy linen which feels almost like it has poly in it although the label says no. Two problems with that sample. First the fabric, way too stiff. Second, way too big on that young lady. It's not designed to be a deep drop shoulder. There are at least a dozen versions online by various people and none of them have that problem. I take that back. Another shop that also used the same fabric had the twisting, but to a lesser degree as they did a smaller drop. Most of them look just fine.
I'm going to use a Brussels Washer linen, 60/40 linen/rayon, in a dark brown called Potting Soil. I have the same fabric with a black vine motif sort of crewel embroidered on it as well as a Broderie Anglaise version. I'm going to see if one of those would work for the collar.
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@Renegade Sewist yes, the correct size across the shoulders does make all the difference. Having looked at some photos of the coat sewn by different people with different fabrics, the fabric type does matter and less than ideal fabric will always amplify unresolved fitting issues, (whatever the project).
Often I sew from 'The Stash' (which does appear to have become an entity). That means what is there may not be an ideal choice for a particular garment/pattern and several times I have found myself making things work by changing the hand of a fabric by underlining with an interfacing to beef up something or on occasion amending a pattern to a bias cut to use something that's a little heavier than what the pattern designer had in mind. Something soft and floppy can be made more substantial, but heavier, stiff and little drape is is always going to be a challenge.
My current slow (stalled) sewing project is a coat using Burda Pattern 6486 (https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/87078) and in addition to going my own way on some of the tailoring to give it a bit more support, the fabric I'm using has been converted from being a lightweight textured knit into something that now has almost no stretch but does have more body and much more stability thanks to underlining it with a decent quality knit interfacing applied at 90 degrees to the direction of stretch.
Potting Soil Brown - the description made me smile.