The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Technical Help => Topic started by: b15erk on May 11, 2022, 09:59:16 AM
-
I'm in search of yet another best way forward for me, and would like to hear your opinions/advice.
Atm, I'm doing a sewalong with BF, as she's having trouble with bits of her pattern. I'm doing the same pattern, but to make it more interesting, I want to do a Welt Pocket - with a Flap!
So far, I've read various tutorials, and watched loads of Youtube videos - some good, some frankly apalling, but all have raised various points of interest which I need some advice on.
Firstly, Itch to Stitch (https://itch-to-stitch.com/jetted-pocketdouble-welt-pocket-with-flap/) . This was very detailed and helpful.
Second, and for me, the one I prefer, was Angela Kane Angela Kane (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8plIT2cC8c)
However, in each one, the welts are constructed differently. ItoS uses welt strips, which I find easier and more accurate, but, it's bulky, and not as nice and flat (in my practise piece) as the AK one. I am now wondering, if it is possible to combine the two...
I'm off to have a practise, but I would be really interested to hear your favourite method.
Jessie
-
I used the Palmer Pleitsch when I did their jacket @b15erk , although I did get one slightly out but it was my first attempt and pressing helped. the instructions in the pattern were very precise as well. I don't have any trouble with welt pockets it's the jetted ones I'm not keen on and so far that's the only one I've done.
I've just bought their book second hand (was like new) but they don't mention jetted just welt and double welt etc. At some point I downloaded and printed the instructions off for the future, but have mislaid it, but definitely not thrown away.
-
@Gernella , thank you so much for mentioning an important word which I left out - it's the Jetted welt pocket I'm doing... :sorry:
I'm just figuring out the best method for me. Some are quite bulky...
Jessie
-
Well, I'm on my way. I've just tried the Angela Kane method, but I pressed the welt in before stitching. It did make life easier, but left fabric which I wasn't altogether sure what to do with... I also managed to attach the pocket to the wrong bit of fabric, so ended up with a none functioning pocket... :rolleyes: :thinking: :rolleyes:
Saying that, it loooks OK from the front, and the flap folds neatly inside. I just need to work on the details...
I'm now working on yet another piece, so fingers crossed for a better result.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Jessie
-
Jessie I have a book called Coat and Skirt Making (skirts, trousers, jackets and coats) by Samuel Heath, and this covers tailoring and this is the best book I have seen showing the techniques I was taught in tailoring, it really is brilliant and the drawings in this book are so very clear. There are a few pages on the jetted welt pocket, and attaching the pocket bag.
Another tip is to use a wooden clapper or failing a clapper use a new clean wooden rolling pin not only to whack the buttonhole area into flatness, but hold this down over the offending area after a good steaming, the wood will absorb the steam making the fabric fall into submission.
I was lucky in finding this Samuel Heath book for sale on the library trolley for £1 and of course I leapt on this and am so pleased that I have. Also in this book it shows you how to make a sleeve head roll - this is in addition to the sleeve shoulder pads and just gives a nice neat finish to the sleeve head. There are loads and loads of tailoring techniques that I learnt during my tailoring course back in the 60's and have never seen some of these until I got this book.
There are a few of these books available through e-bay and second hand book shops, my copy of the book has a white background and shows a Gutermann reel of green thread, a thimble and a needle.
Hope this might help you.
-
I can't figure out what the 'jetted" refers to, I would call that a double welt pocket with flap. What does a non jetted welt pocket look like?
-
@Ploshkin , apparently the welt on the top is the jetted bit... I think...
I think I'm there now - or as near as dammit. The inside doesn't look so neat, but the lining will cover it.
For this last sample I used the welts cut and folded to size - Angela Kane's method was too fiddly for me. The welts need to be stitched just a smidge larger than the Flap. After that it was the AK instructions I followed. I got the pocket wrong again, but I think I've figured it out now.
I've done the last sample in the jacket fabric and lining, and I used a packet facing. I think I'll abandon this, and just use the lining which I think gives a nice contrast.
Here are some pics
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Jessie
-
That’s very neat @b15erk. I’m assuming you keep your samples for future reference?
I usually use Claire Shaeffer's method for bound buttonholes and welt pockets. It’s good to try different methods to get the one that suits you best.
-
You've made a neat job of that Jessie. I've only done one on wool which is very forgiving.
-
Thanks Gels, much appreciated! I've just done another, so that I know it's not a fluke, and to make sure I know where the pocket bag attaches.
The process is pretty simple, but you do have to be very accurate around the welts, so that you don't get to much gap either side of the flap. I found the best way to do this, was to lay the flap over the welts, and mark at each end. Sewing right up to the mark gives just enough space to slot the flap into.
@Ohsewsimple , yes, I keep the samples for reference, but whether I would remember the process without some reference, well, that's another thing!
Next step is to put a pair of them onto the jacket - but that's for tomorrow! I'm out for dinner tonight! :D
Jessie
-
(https://i.imgur.com/8UCzkxil.jpg)
-
The test runs @b15erk posted look better than some of those examples, which seem to feature rather a lot of wonkiness and stuffing it in to fit, @Gernella.
-
The welts need to be stitched just a smidge larger than the Flap. After that it was the AK instructions I followed. I got the pocket wrong again, but I think I've figured it out now.
Jessie
It's only since starting P&Q that I've come across the Smidge but what a useful beastie it has proved to be ;)
Fab job, @b15erk. Always worth a couple of practice goes on something like that :thumb:
-
@b15erk its often a good idea to take photos as you go. Write notes and scribble all over the sample too! So handy. ;)
-
My favourite sewing patterns feature the smidge. Like the inner cuff or undercollar slightly smaller than their counterpart. Or the facing gathered in a few mm so a neckline doesn't roll out. Understitching is the ultimate expression of the smidge because the stitched side is a smidge tighter than the other side.
-
I know this :D (feeling proud here) and that is a lovely neat job on all of them. I have done welts and bound buttonholes and they have never been that neat, but then everyone here is neater than me lol
Never heard of jetted though!
-
Thank you ladies. I've decided that today is the day, no point doint more practise runs. I've read tips and tutorials until my eyes were sore, consulted all my books, and now, I believe I have a technique that works for me.
I have decided to use prepared welts, as they can be done in advance, and don't need jiggling into position. I'll just have to check and double check my pocket positions - I don't want wonky pockets! :rolleyes:
I will also be using iron on interfacing, which I didn't use on my samples. I think it will be needed to support the finished weight, and to make it look neater.
Any other tips before I go in? ;)
Jessie
-
@b15erk I am very impressed with quilting tape for holding things that Must Not Move.
I have used it on buttons, pattern matching a join, and when I make my next welt pockets I will try it there myself. I didn't believe it would wash away, but it does. Is the jacket washable?
-
@toileandtrouble , thank you for reminding me about quilting tape! :thumb: It would certainly help to keep things in place without distorting them - sometimes you feel as if you need 3 hands!
I will consult Amazon to see what is available - as I remember, it is useful for zips as well...
The jacket is washable, but I doubt I'll try it - it creases too much, and some of the creases seem permanent as they refuse to be pressed out!
Jessie
-
Another fan of wash away tape. It will enable you to check positioning before committing to sewing.
Zips are always done with the tape here. Pins distort too much for my liking.
-
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ] Right. Bit of an update - they're done!!! :dance: :dance:
Actually, not as bad as I thought -just that there are two of them - and they need to match!
As this is a (wearable) toile, I took a bit of care with the pockets - although looking at the overall fronts, I can't see it will get much wear - if any at all! Can't get the creases out at all.
Excuse the pictures, some have come out very faded.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Jessie
-
Beautifully made! I am so jealous of how neatly you sew!
-
So splendid, they are.
You could regard it as fashionably crumpled. Remember that wedding dress?