I usually only read the directions if it's something I don't sew often or there is a special detail in the garment that I need to understand how to put together specifically.

Otherwise, I do my own thing.

That said, IMO, Big4 are a bit too cut+paste at this point, except for the licensed Designer patterns from Vogue, for example.

I find that Style Arc has the most terse instructions, a sewing order. I've never sewn Colette or Tilly or By Hand London, all those brands that they laud for their extensive instructions. What depth of directives does a dirndl skirt need, anyway? Especially, non-fitting ones??? 

I also suspect/hope Burda suffers from non-seamstress translations. Despite sewing with them for years, sometimes, the words don't make sense.

The booklet for the Nina Lee Kew Dress I bought recently has no indications regarding seam finishes, now that I think of it.

Another helpful tip when sewing with Burda is that the little numbers at the corners of the patterns reflect sewing order/instructions. So just start with 1. Do note that Burda is of the zipper-last traditional school of sewing.

Is it the one with the two Canadians? I tried to listen but they giggle way too much for my sanity. They also, just like AALLLL THE OTHERRR PODCASTS, fangirl over all the same Indie sewing celebrities.

How many interviews of Closet Case File's owner etc. must I endure in this lifetime?

I much prefer the mother and daughter duo of Americans but I can't remember the name.

Dare I say that the "if it makes you happy" mantra all these people practice really grates me? When you do the thing that supposedly "makes you happy" *eyeroll* is the stitch/garment/hem straight, flat and resistant? That's what I want to know!!!!

Oh, and Threads magazine also has a podcast now! Started in February?

I think it looks good, especially the bottom half. Are you maybe a slim Pear shape, smaller on top? The sleeves also seem a bit big.

If you're up to it, I would try the same pattern again, one size down on the top, including sleeves.

And I am of the school that A Jacket Over It solves a variety of problems 

Sorry for the late post, I was traveling and at a conference for work.

Burdastyle 5/2018 on the RU site (the best one, IMO!)

The issue came out on the 11th. The new website allows you to see either the photos or the line drawings.

At-a-glance page is here. I print them out and keep in a 3-ring binder so I can look up patterns without manipulating the magazines.

Not a pdf, but

McCall's 6844 does have waist seam.

The line drawing shows that it's pretty much the same pattern as that PDF:


There are 171 reviews of this pattern on Pattern Review, in case you want to find out more...

ETA that I made view B for my then 100 yo grandmother out of a crochet knit and it came out really cute. I don't remember any problems. Never reviewed online, though.

Wow, that is cool! It's actually a hooded, buttoned poncho, when you think of it.

I'm very interested in DP Studios. The designer worked at several Haute Couture houses, taught and even published drafting books.

One of my students is studying in FR and bought me the special issue sewing magazine that came out last year, with 12 patterns from them. Can't wait to get it!!!

I think it may have something to do with the fact that they are all owned by the same parent group. So in effect, they become collections with individual target demographics.[...]I think because the McCalls group owns all three (four if you count Kwik Sew) it doesn't need to worry about satisfying multiple demographics with one collection release, because they will gain customers on other releases.

This is my understanding also. While there may be several age groups featured (except Vogue doesn't do Kids patterns), when you look at the patterns overall, you see a clear ligne directrice for each brand.

And they also own Simplicity now, remember. I'm hoping the online buying options for that brand align with the BMVKS site ie a functional webshop with no third-party fee.

Any reason you don't shorten at the armscye?

I bought a Craftsy class that shows how to shorten jackets at that seam rather than altering the placket as you did. So I'm wondering what your reasons are to employ this method.