The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Mocarroll on September 15, 2020, 18:39:46 PM

Title: Men's shirts
Post by: Mocarroll on September 15, 2020, 18:39:46 PM
I decided to make my very fussy husband some shirts.  Armed with David Coffin's excellent book and my new weapon of choice (newly acquired and serviced Singer 201K 1954 model - great year by the way!) I started by making a toile using Burda 6874 (https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/sewing/patterns/burda-6874-burda-mens-sewing-pattern-6874-smart-shirts-in-3-variations?awc=5270_1600190305_e3e7a986594963af4efb0d4d909ba74b&utm_source=Affiliate_Window&utm_medium=Affiliate_Marketing&utm_campaign=648417).  Then I made a linen long sleeve with a "grandad" collar in a white linen.  I hoped to practice techniques before I started the real thing.  The linen was lovely to work with and I was pleased with the results.  I used the patterns for a tower placket and a collar band from David Coffin's book but otherwise used the pattern straight out of the packet.  My husband is a cycling nut and, like many cyclists is very slim and a standard size in ready to wear.
This fabric from Spoonflower with a nod to the Tour de France had his name on it but was quite expensive and I was terrified of the pattern matching.  In the end I matched the pocket and the button placket with the right front.  With hindsight I should have cut the buttonhole band as a separate piece and then I might have been able to match both fronts and the buttonhole band.
I learnt a lot  by making this, using glue pen on the sleeve fell seam and on the collar, using a buttonhole chisel for the first time.  But all credit goes to my lovely old Singer, what a star for topstitching!
The only thing I am not happy about is the fit of the shoulders.  Can anyone help?  I suspect the culprit is sloping shoulders and/or a forward shoulder so should I alter the bodice fronts and back rather than the yoke as David Coffin suggests?
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Ellabella on September 15, 2020, 18:45:48 PM
Those shirts look lovely. There is something very satisfying about making a nicely tailored shirt.

Well done.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Surest1tch on September 15, 2020, 19:25:25 PM
That's a really nice shirt and fab fabric, so unusual
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Ann on September 15, 2020, 20:17:08 PM
Beautiful shirts for you husband. I make western shirts for my husband as he likes them long in the body and a bit larger in the cuffs. He also wants shirts with 2 pockets. The shirt pattern I use I bought way back in 2007-08 so it is discontinued.

Sloping shoulders -- Ron Collins (designs for Vogue patterns) helped me. I add to the shoulder seam on the back and take it away from the front one. So just that part of the shirt out of a remnant to try it out. I'm sure if you do some pinching of fabric you'll get close as to how much you need to add to the back and subtract from the front. Hope this helps.

Melly Sews (https://mellysews.com/shoulder-fitting-adjustments-when-sewing/) talks about different types of shoulder adjustments. The one I did is a forward shoulder adjustment. I typed in shoulder adjustment for patterns and got lots of hits.

Hope this helps.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: dolcevita on September 15, 2020, 20:48:51 PM
Lovely work! My OH gets a shirt for his birthday and, if he's really lucky, one for Christmas. I'd hate him to take them for granted!
I have sloping shoulders and usually do and adjustment. The main part is re-drawing the armhole ince you've dropped the shoulder to keep the armscye the same (more complicated than it sounds).
If you get peaks of fabric radiating out from the base of the armhole, it's probably sloping shoulders. Dropping the shoulder and then the armscye will fix this.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Sewot on September 15, 2020, 21:26:09 PM
Lovely work on your shirt.
The shoulders look okay to me but something is telling you to do something about it and you are you.
Agree about Singer 201s...they are hard to beat. ( straight stitch)
I cannot help but would go for what David Coffin writes.
I also have his book and it is excellent.
I will never again wear a dress shirt so I stick to casual old time granpa shirts.
For the ladies that are unaware....the book also includes ladies shirt fittings!!!
Pete
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: toileandtrouble on September 15, 2020, 22:37:29 PM
I would imagine that cyclists are prone to rounded backs, looking at the way they are on the bike. Look at the armhole seam at the back.  Those shirts definitely look as good, or better, than bought ones already.
(if you make too many adjustments, they get more and more picky - ask anyone here!)
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Ploshkin on September 16, 2020, 07:31:15 AM
My go to shirt pattern (tweaked to fit DH) has a yoke and so no shoulder seams.  The yoke seams sit a little way down the fronts.  It is easy to tweak these for a good fit.
DH has sloping shoulders and a very rounded back.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: UttaRetch on September 16, 2020, 08:20:30 AM
The 'grand dad' shirt is beautifully sewn.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Mocarroll on September 16, 2020, 20:06:56 PM
(if you make too many adjustments, they get more and more picky - ask anyone here!)
Ain't that the truth @toileandtrouble !  I have spent the last few years focussing on fit for myself.  So by the time I've done a narrow back adjustment, high round back, sway back, forward shoulder, narrow shoulder, FBA, shorten waist, shorten length, shorten sleeve, add to waist I'm really fed up - takes ages on a commercial pattern.  The result is usually good but still I'm picking holes.  Don't think I want to go down that road with hubby's shirts. :facepalm:
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Ellabella on September 16, 2020, 21:31:34 PM
Thank god for a husband who favours a relaxed fit :D
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: CCL on August 01, 2021, 17:38:11 PM
Found this old thread about shirts.  I am about to embark on a brushed cotton shirt for Better Half.  I am using McCalls 2447, which I have used a bunch of times so I know it works for him. 

Curious if other folks are also sewing shirts - men's shirts, women's shirts, kids' shirts?
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Bill on August 01, 2021, 18:14:56 PM
I have aspirations to sew my own shirts. The stuff I see in Asda etc is usually loud and obnoxious. I feel too old for t-shirts these days.
I actually bought one (a shirt) last week. First time in...........years.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: CCL on August 01, 2021, 18:54:39 PM
@Bill - If you are looking for a pattern to get started, I found Better Half likes the fit (loose) of the McCalls 2447 - I have made it a gazillon times  (https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/albums/72157640843804435).  Here are five makes that I did for a SWAP for Better Half.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/544/31766494665_4218271fa2_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Qp6A8T)
SWAP for Better Half 1- Shirts (https://flic.kr/p/Qp6A8T)

It's not the easiest even though the pattern doesn't include flat felled seams in the instructions - I think it suggests overlocking the side and sleeve seams.   However, it does call for a traditional sleeve placket. 

I have a couple of other Vogue patterns (Vogue 8759 and V8889) that I haven't made up since BH likes the McCalls...  but these may avoid what I think are the tricky bits:


You probably know this, but best to start with a vertical stripe (helps lining things up) as plaids and checks can pose issues on pattern matching and a solid shows every mistake (insert "ask me how I know" emoji)

If it's alright with folks and no one thinks that I am hijacking this thread, I think I might post progress here.  Or I could start another thread, but might be fun to have all things men's shirts related in one place.

ETA: point about clipping the neck edge.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Esme866 on August 01, 2021, 20:06:23 PM
I think continuing this thread is a great idea, or eventually it could become a "child board". I think that's what called. That's up to the mods of course.

Haven't made a shirt in a couple of years, but really need to get back at it. DPC's book is so very helpful. So is his "Trousers" book BTW.

I need to order some interfacing from Bias Bespoke, curious to see which I'll prefer.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: dolcevita on August 01, 2021, 20:17:19 PM
So much comes down to personal taste on the brand of pattern that you use. I've found that US patterns, McCalls, Butterick, etc. have a lot of ease and are very broad across the shoulder. European brands such as Burda are closer fitting with a slimmer look to them.

It's fun to have a look at expensive designer stuff, too, as it's easy to copy any features that you particularly like. If you're going to go to all the bother of making a shirt, it may as well look like an expensive one rather than one from Asda. My OH likes the style (not necessarily the fabric) of Angelo Galasso shirts, having seen Eddie Jordan wearing them on the F1 programmes, so I just transferred a few of the features of those onto his shirts. He also really likes Liberty lawn for his shirts as it's such a comfortable fabric to wear.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: badgermat on August 02, 2021, 03:42:47 AM

If you're looking for a simpler shirt pattern that's easy to adapt for fit or formality, you could do a lot worse than Vanessa Mooncie's in har book the Gentleman's Wardrobe ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gentlemans-Wardrobe-Vintage-Style-Projects-Modern/dp/1861087470/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=the+gentleman%27s+wardrobe&qid=1627871107&sr=8-1 ).

The pattern includes short and long-sleeved variants, a simplified sleeve placket and a full front placket, and has a yoke that doesn't require burrito assembly (a bonus, I thought). The collar is a bit big, but that's an easy fix.

It's a fairly traditional design, with a boxy cut, but I've found it simple to adjust for a much slimmer fit. I certainly had no problems slimming down the arms, and creating a more fitted look, and reducing the ease required in the sleeve head. I suspect making it work for narrow shoulders would be trickier though.

Most of the shirts I've made have been relatively casual, but with the right fabric choice, this pattern can be made to look a lot sharper.

bm

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Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: CCL on August 05, 2021, 13:49:08 PM
@badgermat  - Nice!   

I was already to cut out the newest shirt when BH said he'd really like another causal vest, so I will do that first before getting on with the shirt.

Of course, I don't have any fabric on hand for the vest he wants, though I have plenty of fabric on hand for a multitude of other projects!
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: CCL on September 27, 2021, 16:26:36 PM
Started another McCall's 2447 shirt for Better Half (finished the vests).  Of course, just when I am ready for an easy sew, I picked a project with lots of pattern matching - make that check matching.  So far I have at least the front band and the pockets lined up correctly.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51519048327_73dd090973_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2muyAaV)
Mcalls 2447 Pocket substitution (https://flic.kr/p/2muyAaV)
  (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51519860711_761b5e2bcb_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2muCKEx)
M2447 - pocket stitched (https://flic.kr/p/2muCKEx)

Finished the sleeve plackets yesterday and also them lined up correctly, but no photos yet.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: dolcevita on September 27, 2021, 20:43:37 PM
Love the pattern matching, horizontal and vertical. Just looking at it makes me smile :loveit:
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: CCL on September 29, 2021, 14:06:29 PM
Love the pattern matching, horizontal and vertical. Just looking at it makes me smile :loveit:

I keep thinking about Esmee's remark about finding pattern matching on shirt yokes / pockets a bit boring - and Patrick's confessing that he does admire pattern matched.  I am always a little torn, but I definitely think I am in Patrick's camp.

It's like an inside secret - those who know, know.

At any rate... pattern matching continues.  Here are the sleeve plackets.   Not sure I will be able to keep thispattern matching up on the cuffs and rest of construction, but for now:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51531791654_f05e83a386_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mvFUjs)
McCalls 2447 pattern matching on single piece sleeve plackets (https://flic.kr/p/2mvFUjs)
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Bumblebuncher on September 29, 2021, 14:16:35 PM
I admire your determination @CCL
I tried once, got bored, gave up lol
I think they do look much better matched properly, I'm just too lazy
 :perfect10:
BB
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Esme866 on September 29, 2021, 20:45:47 PM
@CCL must have been someone else's remark, 'cause I'm fanatically OCD about pattern matching. :meditation: Love it!

Reupholstered a small sofa a few years back with fabric originally purchased for another project. The sofa needed to have the fabric railroaded to avoid piecing the fabric on the back and footboard. I forgot the fabric was directional, so I had to seam it on both sides. Had to point out the seams for my Mom and my best friend to see them. I hand basted the pattern before machine stitching.

If a character on tv is wearing an unmatched plaid or stripe, my concentration on enjoying the story is broken. Pretty sure that's OCD - as you seem to be also! :hug:

Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: CCL on September 29, 2021, 23:14:14 PM
@CCL must have been someone else's remark, 'cause I'm fanatically OCD about pattern matching. :meditation: Love it!

I was thinking that after I posted - I am sure it's my OCD coming out!

It was Esmee (sp) on the Great British sewing bee this season - she was referring to one of the contestants doing the yoke on the bias.   I wouldn't dream of besmirking your good name!  <3
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Esme866 on September 30, 2021, 07:00:11 AM
That makes more sense. :laughing:

How can anyone be involved with a program like that and not be obsesssed with pattern matching! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: badgermat on September 30, 2021, 08:08:09 AM

That pattern matching is great @CCL , nice work.

bm
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: CCL on October 11, 2021, 15:42:17 PM
Finally finished the shirt!

Here's the front:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51577533379_dfe1da0073_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mzJkJT)
McCalls 2447  check front -  (https://flic.kr/p/2mzJkJT) by CCL photos (https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/), on Flickr

I am pretty happy with the matching on the sleeve plackets and cuffs - that was a bear and tried my patience.

I opted to do the buttons slightly off center so that they would be in the middle of the black stripe - if centered correctly, they would be between the two stripes and look off center!  (Don't ask how I know!)

Here's the back.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51577077608_3cb4b1dca1_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mzG1fL)

McCalls 2447 check back  (https://flic.kr/p/2mzG1fL) by CCL photos (https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/), on Flickr


It seems I have ended up doing a 3-PAC for Better Half over the past few months - one shirt and two vests.

Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Bumblebuncher on October 11, 2021, 15:52:26 PM
I would have spots before my eyes matching those checks that well  :perfect10:
BB
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Esme866 on October 11, 2021, 18:39:32 PM
Excellent job @CCL ! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: Lachica on October 11, 2021, 20:49:02 PM
That's great! That pattern matching is superb, it would make my eyes go squiffy.
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: William on October 31, 2021, 12:14:31 PM
Wow - @CCL - what great shirts!!!
I like the bright blue one best - that you pattern matched so wel and got the buttonholes to line up on the placket!!!  :thumbsup:

WD
Title: Re: Men's shirts
Post by: CCL on November 01, 2021, 17:18:47 PM
Thanks, @William !  I love sewing for men - something about the clean finish of seams on the inside, maybe.   I was quite pleased with the finished blue/black check.  So thank you very much for your nice compliment.