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The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Arloony on April 15, 2021, 11:36:59 AM

Title: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Arloony on April 15, 2021, 11:36:59 AM
Hello,

I am rather new to sewing (1 year old) but practiced more on quilting, making small pouch bags, buntings, etc…and never made clothes before.

I have started a sewing course from Centre of Excellence….have any of you beginners completed that course before?

As part of the course….I purchased my first easy pattern for bottom PJs (Simplicity 6859, I am making photo A).
And already I am stuck!! Lol….

I don’t understand how to fold the fabric to lie down the pattern on?

Selvage on the top and bottom…with a double thickness…..
Does that mean the fabric is folded along the length side of the fabric as supposed to the width??   [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  


Also...what is the "nap"

I appreciate your help in advance :)

many thanks
Arlene :sew:
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: toileandtrouble on April 15, 2021, 11:57:06 AM
@Arloony The nap is the sort of 'pile' on the fabric. If you stroke it one way and then the other, you might feel it. Direction affects the way the colour shows sometimes.  Some things like cotton don't have one, but the pattern may also affect the way you cut it so think of pattern as a sort of nap. 
If you fold a length of fabric in half, top to bottom, one side will face up and the other down. That is why they have shown it cut into 2 separate pieces, so that the pattern/nap will face the same way on both.
Make sure you put right sides together as well, or you can cut out two right sides instead of one right and one left.
If you take a piece of paper and draw arrows all over one side, all facing up, then cut it in half across the direction of the arrow, you can see what happens when you arrange it differently.
Keep asking if you get stuck.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Arloony on April 15, 2021, 13:27:43 PM
@toileandtrouble thank you very much for your quick reply.

I understand what nap is thank you.

However I am not sure I still get it about this double thickness cutting layout  >< :'(
I am so sorry to seem so stupid.
I just can't get around my head how it works. so annoying.  :boohoo:
I tried to see if there was anything which explains in video...but cannot find anything

Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Ohsewsimple on April 15, 2021, 13:41:49 PM
@Arloony layouts are usually done on double layers of fabric.  You only have a pattern piece for one half of a front or back. So in this case you need to cut two front legs and two back legs.  Cutting them out at the same time makes it quick.  The layout used is the most efficient use of fabric.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: coffeeandcake on April 15, 2021, 13:49:41 PM
@Arloony Has your fabric got a one-way design or any nap? If not fold it in half across the width and the selvedges will lay on top of each other at the top and bottom with the edges that have been cut instore both falling at one end. If it does have nap or a one-way design still fold it the same way and lay your pattern pieces out on top to make sure that they will fit (which they should if you have the required amount of fabric) then remove them and cut the fabric in half widthways and turn the top piece round 180 degrees keeping the fabric right sides together.

PS You're not stupid - sometimes what seems to be the most basic thing can bamboozle us.
 
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: dolcevita on April 15, 2021, 14:08:47 PM
The way the diagram shows the layout is that the fabric isn't folded. It is illustrated as two pieces of fabric on top of one another, so the fabric has been cut in half across its width, then the two pieces put together.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: BrendaP on April 15, 2021, 14:39:54 PM
With that layout you must remember to place the two pieces of fabric either right side to right sde or wrong side to wrong side. 

If you get them both the same way up you will end up with two left leg fronts and two right leg backs (or vice versa).
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Arloony on April 15, 2021, 15:46:33 PM
Thanks to all of you for taking the time to reply to me with my silly question! I am so embarrassed! lol :|

I think I am overthinking it to be honest...panicking... worried to cut incorrectly and waste my nice fabric (I chose batik cotton).

I will give it a go....and I cut it wrong then I am sure I can make something else out of the fabric......it is never wasted really is it?  :P

 :*
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Catllar on April 15, 2021, 17:14:48 PM
Keep on asking questions - no such thing as a silly one.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: BrendaP on April 15, 2021, 19:46:36 PM
worried to cut incorrectly and waste my nice fabric (I chose batik cotton).

I will give it a go....and I cut it wrong then I am sure I can make something else out of the fabric......it is never wasted really is it? 

Thee will be some bits left over, even after you have cut it all perfectly.  A couple of small scraps are needed to check your machine tension before you sew the real thing, but having chosen batik cotton the rest of the left overs are the start of a P&Q stash.   0_0
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Ohsewsimple on April 15, 2021, 21:20:58 PM
The only silly question is the one you don’t ask!  :)
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Iminei on April 16, 2021, 15:52:55 PM
@Arloony ... Im following this with interest as I will shortly embark on the same project ... Keep asking the questions!

Im now bamboozled about how to layout my fabrics ... Fold across the width ????!!!  :S
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Arloony on April 16, 2021, 16:22:17 PM
@Iminei ...oh really?
which pattern have you chosen?

I am attacking mine this weekend...Wish me luck!  :P
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: jesster on April 16, 2021, 19:04:21 PM
HERE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNjulZzkTL8) is a video that demonstrates different types of layouts.  The layout @Arloony is describing comes at the very end of the video.  If the fabric has nap or a design that has an obvious right-side-up vs upside-down print, that top piece should be rotated 180 degrees and then put back down on the one underneath.  That will keep the nap/design running in the same direction on both pieces. 

You can try this with a piece of paper to see how it works.  Draw a smile face near the top of the paper and another near the bottom of the paper.  :)  Fold the paper in half so the fold is between the 2 faces you drew.  Cut along the fold.  Peek under the top piece and you will see that the smile is upside down.  Turning the top paper 180 degrees will cause both smile faces to be right side up when you put them together again.  If this were a printed fabric, you could now cut out your pattern with both the smiles going in the same direction.  If you had cut without turning the top piece of fabric, half of your pants would have the smiles upside down.

Hope this doesn't make it more confusing!
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: toileandtrouble on April 16, 2021, 19:54:01 PM
@jesster That is what I was trying to do with the arrows.  I think your smileys are clearer to understand!
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: jesster on April 16, 2021, 20:14:32 PM
@toileandtrouble - I understood just what you meant.  By the time I finished my post, I was so involved I forgot that you had already said it!   :facepalm:  Sigh...  Sorry for the repetition.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: toileandtrouble on April 16, 2021, 20:33:58 PM
@jesster I get carried away too, but I did think you explained it more clearly for someone who has never done it before.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Iminei on April 17, 2021, 07:09:19 AM
Well that didnt work for me at all .....

I drew my smilie faces

 :D

folded in half

 :D

cut on the fold

opened up and the smilies are as exactly as they were


 :angry:


 :angry:

Turning the top smilie 180 degrees just made them do this

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

 :(


Confused !!!!  :S


Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: jesster on April 17, 2021, 17:38:55 PM
@Iminei   :laughing:   Obviously my explanation was clear as mud!  There's a reason they say one picture is worth a thousand words and if I ever find a youtube video that shows it better, I'll post it. 
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Gernella on April 17, 2021, 19:39:43 PM
Don't know what I would do without videos, as soon as I come across something not sure on or want to know/see variations on how to, off I trot. Never any sound though, just watching does me fine.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: StitchinTime on April 17, 2021, 20:14:59 PM
@Iminei Did you fold side to side or top to bottom?
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Arloony on April 18, 2021, 08:17:15 AM
I think it is raw edge to raw edge isn’t it? Ending up with selvage on top and selvage at the bottom.

That video @jesster have sent is very good. The bit about this special fold shows at 14.50mn

 :* :sew:
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on April 18, 2021, 09:33:23 AM
@Iminei You went wrong just after "cut along the fold" - you then said you "opened up".   DON'T open up, leave one on top of the other, just rotate one 180 degrees.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Iminei on April 19, 2021, 08:14:45 AM
@SIT  top to bottom

@Bodge  ...  Ok I can get that ... Now, why are we doing this again ?????  -<  :S

@Arloony  ... Pattern ????????   :[
I just thought I'd place my disintegrating PJ bots on the fabric and cut round them ?!!
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Acorn on April 19, 2021, 08:56:18 AM
If that's what you're doing @Iminei you're overthinking it!  All you need to do is fold your fabric down the middle - selvedge to selvedge.

If there is a direction to your new pattern make sure you put the pieces down on it so the pattern runs correctly.  If there isn't a pattern, any way will do.
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on April 19, 2021, 12:05:42 PM
@Arloony This is definitely the right place for questions! I recently took up sewing again and this forum has been invaluable. Honestly, the lovely sewing people on here could write the most amazing book on sewing techniques!  :grouphug:

The one thing that really helps me with my sewing is to visualise the end result. What are you trying to achieve? If you can see how you want the fabric pattern (directional or otherwise) to appear on your garment then placing the paper pieces on the fabric becomes meaningful to you.

When I’m laying out my paper pieces I may glance at the layout diagram and then usually I ignore it!!!  :rolleyes: I made some checked PJs the other month and my focus was on making sure that the checks on the left and right legs matched at the crotch seam line. If I’d followed the layout diagram I doubt I could have done this. (There’s a photo of said PJs on page 3 of my members’ diary if you want to have a look. )

For me personally I think the cutting out stage is probably the most important part of dressmaking.  I always focus on the grainline (this is shown on each paper pattern piece). If you cut your fabric pieces off grain then chances are your garment won’t hang well, regardless of how beautifully it’s been sewn. I sometimes don’t cut fabric 'on the fold' and I usually prefer to trace ‘whole’ paper pattern pieces. So for example for a top, half a back paper pattern piece becomes a whole back paper pattern piece! If that makes sense.

Looking forward to seeing your lovely PJs.  :thumbsup:

OOhh and just a thought, if you don’t cut on the fold then you must be mindful to cut out left and right pieces!

@Iminei Love your use of emojis! If in doubt gin helps!   :gin: :)
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Iminei on April 19, 2021, 12:11:57 PM
  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

and here's a pic of Lemonsyllabubs PJ bots
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on April 19, 2021, 12:32:50 PM
@Iminei aww thanks.
Just like me they look better from behind!
   [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Iminei on April 19, 2021, 12:51:06 PM
Shall I just send you my fabric ?????
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on April 19, 2021, 12:54:15 PM
I wouldn't deprive you of the fun. :)
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Catllar on April 19, 2021, 13:17:46 PM
@Lemon Syllabub  another girl after my own heart - of course gin helps everything! :gin:
Title: Re: Stuck on easy pattern cutting layout
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on April 19, 2021, 13:53:58 PM
another girl after my own heart - of course gin helps everything! :gin:

Always!  :gin: