The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Patterns Discussion => Topic started by: Morgan on March 03, 2017, 21:16:58 PM
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A couple to start the list -
http://sewwardrobe.co.uk/patterns (http://sewwardrobe.co.uk/patterns) by 'Alison Smith. A small range of classic patterns
http://www.bluedotpatterns.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html (http://www.bluedotpatterns.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html) another small range - the Dover Jacket pattern bang up to date
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Love this
(http://sewwardrobe.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/s/e/sew_wardrobe_suzy_pattern_4.jpg)
but it maybe largely due to the fabric.
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I do like but wonder if it's one of those patterns that is even worth buying. I know I am confident making a skirt with a box pleat (maybe two pleats on each front and back) from scratch. I guess it can get more complicated the more pleats you introduce...
I wish though if they're advertising a skirt they wouldn't then put a cardi on over it!
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Marina Brompton does an excellent tutorial on boxed pleat skirts Fran.
Jessie
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Ottobre Magazine https://www.ottobredesign.com/ - by magazine subscription, patterns for both kids and adults, 6 issues a year, issue 2 and 5 are the women's edition. Available from Dots and Stripes in the uk http://www.dotsnstripes.co.uk/
Style Arc - we all love a bit of Style Arc! Available as downloads from Etsy or paper copies shipped from Oz (takes a couple of days) http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/
Schnittquelle http://www.schnittquelle.de/ - German pattern company, paper copies on A0 size, I love the dresses and jackets they do, but they are cut for people with very skinny arms !
Burda https://www.burdastyle.co.uk/ Good source of free patterns but the lack of line drawings when searching annoys me!
Lekala https://www.lekala.co/ - mixed feelings about this website, I love the concept but I'm not sure it's foolproof. 2 dress patterns were disasters, yet a free skirt pattern (after tweaking) was lovely and a pattern for boys pj's was fine. A few free patterns and patterns sent in PDF format.
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I blow hot and cold about Indies. Some of them are very expensive for what you get and whilst I understand that many people need the support that a printed pattern gives them personally I wouldn't spend good money on a skirt pattern like the box pleated one. I might be wrong but wouldn't people new to sewing be more inclined to use big 4 patterns anyway, rather than delete into the Indies?? Those of us who are a bit more experienced would perhaps look twice before splashing out on some of these really simple patterns - or am I just being tightfisted and scroogey?
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I wish though if they're advertising a skirt they wouldn't then put a cardi on over it!
Another view here (http://sewwardrobe.co.uk/patterns/suzy), Fran.
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I blow hot and cold about Indies. Some of them are very expensive for what you get ...
You would hope patterns drafted by Alison Smith would be top notch, but I don't see anything in her range not available from the 'Big4'. What gets up my nose are all those boxy garments from 'star bloggers' with a fangurl following that cost £15. :angry:
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I have mixed views on Indies. Some fill a niche, like Cashmerette for example. Seamwork has fashion forward designs for a very reasonable price, even though it's associated with the dreaded Colette. But a lot of them do cut corners, or have poor drafting, or simply don't know that they're poorly drafted or have cut corners because they're made by inexperienced people.
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I've not yet found an Indie pattern company that I really like although there are a couple which do lagenlook/art teacher type patterns which I like. Tina Givens patterns look interesting although a little frilly in places! http://www.sewtinagivens.com/printed-patterns (http://www.sewtinagivens.com/printed-patterns).
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I am a huge fan of Sewaholic patterns, because apart from lengthening, because I'm stupidly tall, they fit with minimal adjustments. Everything else - big three and other indie - I have SO much grading between sizes to do.
I quite like Sew Over It and Tilly because the instructions make sense to me. I've often struggled with instructions in Big 3 patters, but now I've built confidence with basics I feel a lot more capable to take on ones with slightly sketchier instructions.
Other than that I wouldn't generally give a hoot if a pattern was indie or not. Except if it was Collette or By Hand London in which case I would probably run a mile. (Though admittedly Fran's moneta dress looks awesome!)
My mum sends me a lot of Prima patterns and I've found those to be good on the whole - they're neither indie nor big 3 I guess?
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I quite like Sew Over It and Tilly because the instructions make sense to me. I've ... built confidence with basics I feel a lot more capable to take on ones with slightly sketchier instructions.
Ooh, let me then suggest Burda. :devil:
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Ooh, let me then suggest Burda. :devil:
Hmmmm nope, not that brave yet ;)
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Except if it was Collette or By Hand London in which case I would probably run a mile. (Though admittedly Fran's moneta dress looks awesome!)
Why would you run a mile? I quite like Colette but haven't bought any yet.
My first pattern was coco by Tilly and the Buttons and while it is such an easy pattern at quite a hefty price, it is brilliant for a beginner with the pictures. The indie patterns often seem to do well on blogs so end up on pinterest, and then I find them and fall in love with them. I need to get more confident with drafting simple dresses for me and the girls so I don't need to buy simple patterns.
My favourite pattern for ease was by 'sew liberated'. It was the Ashland dress and as beginner it was such a well explained and well fitting dress. It is the only one where I haven't had to alter anything or needed help to understand the instructions.
By the way I am trying to quote and keep getting it wrong as I am such luddite and then trying to edit it. Oh dear, such basic things baffle me.
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I had a really good experience with a Lekala pattern for a Man's overcoat. It seemed to be the only way to get a classic single-breasted overcoat that would fit my slim slight DH - and it did. I also really like Sewaholic though I wonder what will happen now the original designer is no longer associated with them.
People speak well of Grainline http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/collections/pdf-downloads
Anne
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Some interesting jackets and coats on the Schnittquelle site. Thanks Swisslass.
Pity they don't put the descriptions in English when you are using the English version though.
Oh well, maybe one day. Right now it would be running before I can walk.
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I've tried a few lekala patterns recently and have mixed opinions about them, too. I made a coat late last autumn that was on track for looking great and eventually did. However, it had inset pockets in a front princess seam and they were positioned so low down that my fingertips barely reached them!!!! I managed to save it, but there does seem to be an error in their system for using custom sizes as it doesn't appear to alter the positioning of things like pockets to correspond with the custom size.
I have most recently made a dress from lekala - one of their patterns is a knock off of a really nice Ralph Lauren dress from a couple of seasons ago. I made a 'wearable toile' as the toile fabric was pretty cheap, but the fit is odd, to say the least. Actually, it's not so much odd as having practically zero ease even though it's specified as a woven. I'll need to lose a few pounds before I would be comfortable wearing version 1, but it's still a nice dress.
As for lekala's instructions? Forget it. Don't even try and figure them out, it will just make things even more confusing.
For fit and consistency, I still rate Burda and Ottobre, and Ottobre's everyday basics that they stuff the magazine with are great. I'm hoping to knock out some of these pretty soon.
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. Tina Givens patterns look interesting although a little frilly in places! http://www.sewtinagivens.com/printed-patterns (http://www.sewtinagivens.com/printed-patterns).
I guess a lot of the success or failure of her look is in the styling and your height - some are very frilly and don't get me started on the bloomers - but a lot of the tops and dresses could look good!
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Except if it was Collette or By Hand London in which case I would probably run a mile. (Though admittedly Fran's moneta dress looks awesome!)
Why would you run a mile? I quite like Colette but haven't bought any yet.
My first pattern was coco by Tilly and the Buttons and while it is such an easy pattern at quite a hefty price, it is brilliant for a beginner with the pictures. The indie patterns often seem to do well on blogs so end up on pinterest, and then I find them and fall in love with them. I need to get more confident with drafting simple dresses for me and the girls so I don't need to buy simple patterns.
My favourite pattern for ease was by 'sew liberated'. It was the Ashland dress and as beginner it was such a well explained and well fitting dress. It is the only one where I haven't had to alter anything or needed help to understand the instructions.
By the way I am trying to quote and keep getting it wrong as I am such luddite and then trying to edit it. Oh dear, such basic things baffle me.
I think it's the uncertainty of what you get with Collette and By Hand London. Collette because the fit and sizing seems to vary so much by pattern, and BHL because they have the most bonkers instructions! I bought the Elisalex dress which has zero ease in some bits, and positive ease in others. And the bodice didn't seem to work with the skirt. I've read they've now reissued it with a whole new bodice. >< Not going to bother trying again! I hold grudges ;)
I have never tried the Ashland dress but just googled it and it sounds nice!! Definitely going to try it!!
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Argh I can't make the quoting work. Hopefully my answer makes sense anyway:)
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Why would you run a mile? I quite like Colette but haven't bought any yet.
My first pattern was coco by Tilly and the Buttons and while it is such an easy pattern at quite a hefty price, it is brilliant for a beginner with the pictures. The indie patterns often seem to do well on blogs so end up on pinterest, and then I find them and fall in love with them. I need to get more confident with drafting simple dresses for me and the girls so I don't need to buy simple patterns.
My favourite pattern for ease was by 'sew liberated'. It was the Ashland dress and as beginner it was such a well explained and well fitting dress. It is the only one where I haven't had to alter anything or needed help to understand the instructions.
By the way I am trying to quote and keep getting it wrong as I am such luddite and then trying to edit it. Oh dear, such basic things baffle me.
Don't get me started on Colette in general. I sew the Seamwork patterns because they're quick and usually don't use much fabric. I sewed the Colette Moneta because it's the only professionally drafted Colette pattern... yes you heard that right... the only professionally drafted Colette pattern after, what, 8 years?
There was a very big drama over their recent Rue dress when it was discovered that the dress was horribly, horribly drafted. So many people sewed it up and had an awful time of it. I could probably do a full write-up elsewhere (in fact I did on Threddit) but basically lots of underhand cover-ups of how poorly it was drafted, the realisation that they don't know what they're doing (they submitted a wishy-washy post on their blog about how they were "learning from their mistakes" and "revising their practices" even though lots of people have been crying out for them to do that for the last 8 years). They deleted comments of criticism and photoshopped wrinkles from garments showing problems, from their site. A lot of mess basically.
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... I also really like Sewaholic though I wonder what will happen now the original designer is no longer associated with them.
There was a lot of disquiet about this on another forum of which I am a member, but in the news (http://sewaholic.net/exciting-news/) section on the Sewaholic site, the new owners state, in response to a query about drafting:
'... thank you for sharing your post. We’ll be working with the same pattern block as Tasia so that the proportions will remain the same.'.
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For fit and consistency, I still rate Burda and Ottobre, and Ottobre's everyday basics that they stuff the magazine with are great. I'm hoping to knock out some of these pretty soon.
I'm with Dolcevita on this, Ottobre and Burda are my favourites. In fact DV, it was you who told me about Ottobre a couple of years back on TSF. I ordered a back copy, then subscribed. They both fit my shape better then the Big 4, particularly Ottobre, which usually need only an FBA to fit well.
Tracing off the Ottobre pattern pieces from the multi-coloured tangle of lines can be wearing on the eyes, back and patience, but I'd much rather do that than struggle to join many, many pieces of A4 with sticky tape. They have very wearable designs, even if the styling in the magazine can be weird at times!
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I like the styles of the envelope Burda patterns, but I had one project that turned into 'Satan's own' and have since persistently failed to get beyond the toile stage.
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I know Colette patterns are a bit Marmite, but one of my favourite patterns has been the Phoebe dress.
I had to tweak the pattern for fit (just like every other pattern) but I've made it twice now, one in a dark navy babycord and the other in a black and white tweed with shots of coloured silk through.
Having said that, I don't know why I was drawn to the pattern in the first place because the publicity photos were absolutely dire -<
Can't say I noticed how good the instructions were either, I may not have followed them...or maybe I've had too many glasses of wine tonight to remember :toast: :D
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I know Colette patterns are a bit Marmite, but one of my favourite patterns has been the Phoebe dress.
I had to tweak the pattern for fit (just like every other pattern) but I've made it twice now, one in a dark navy babycord and the other in a black and white tweed with shots of coloured silk through.
Having said that, I don't know why I was drawn to the pattern in the first place because the publicity photos were absolutely dire -<
Can't say I noticed how good the instructions were either, I may not have followed them...or maybe I've had too many glasses of wine tonight to remember :toast: :D
Phoebe dress looks cute but I'm sure I have a McCalls patterns very similar.
I think with Colette you just have to go in with an open mind that they are not drafted well. As long as you know what's up with them, then you'll be fine.
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I feel disappointed with some indie pattern companies use of vanity sizing. Surely they know people who sew use a tape measure. Colette’s smallest size is labelled 0 and is larger than a Vogue size 10 and Megan Neilson’s smallest size is XS which is the same size as a Vogue size 12! ( Vogue patterns go down three more sizes to a 6). If they don’t want to draft pattern sizes for petite or small framed people who need to choose small sizes and do an FBA then that’s their choice but labelling their sizes to imply we don’t exist is well...disappointing..
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I like Tessuti, the Australian company. Generally loose fitting garments, I've found they go together well and the instructions are good.
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Nor sure if this link has been shared before but if gives quite a comprehensive list of independent pattern companies. Plus I find this a good site for all things related to sewing.
Find it here (https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/independent-pattern-companies/)
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https://www.bluedotpatterns.com/store/p26/New_Dover_Jacket%21_-_PDF_Sewing_Pattern_includes_Copy_Shop_File.html
For some reason I've missed this post, but now having found it I'm delighted!
I've just bought the above (Dover Jacket by Bluedot patterns).
:D
Annieeg
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Pauline Alice Patterns (https://www.paulinealice.com/my-sewing-patterns/)
Printed and PDF versions
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@Morgan these patterns aren't available to buy.....?!
Not that I need more patterns :o
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@Morgan these patterns aren't available to buy.....?!
Not that I need more patterns :o
There's a 'Shop' link in the black bar right at the top of the page.
Not that I'm an enabler or anything... ><
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@Acorn Oh yeah, fancy me not seeing that. Right, you're to blame then :devil:
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I find PaulineAlice great for my daughter who is 5' 1". They are well drafted.https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/en/ This one is really versatile. (https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/562-thickbox_default/vestido-aldaia.jpg)
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Sorry, I haven't read this whole thread but I just wanted to say that I have never found an Indie pattern company whose patterns I couldn't have drafted myself. My skills are fairly limited in pattern drafting.
I have recently been on a Style Arc adventure and from the four patterns I chose, I have only one pair of trousers that are wearable and only then as an alternative to leggings.
It's Vogue for me all he way.
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We'll have to agree to differ on that on! If it wasn't for Style Arc I would have very few attractive, well fitting clothes.
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I love Style arc, I have found all their trousers I have made fit me straight out of the packet, I have tried about 5 different ones and all are great. They are almost the only trouser patterns that have fitted. I have also made dresses and tops.
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I don't do dressmaking but I bet I'd be brilliant...after half a bottle of Champagne. ;)
Happy Birthday Mr Crafter! :toast:
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A lot of indie patterns do start out quite basic but I suppose they all have to be drafted by someone so I guess @crafter must be a master pattern cutter!
Could you not do the same for Vogue?
I think the champagne may have caused me to write a bit of a confusing post. I am not hugely talented in the pattern cutting department, @Francesca. And nowhere near good enough to create a pattern to the standard of Vogue.
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I've just made a toile of the Merchant and Mills Top 64:
https://apps.talktalk.co.uk/appsuite/api/mail/20190428_161648.jpg?action=attachment&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=8540&attachment=2&user=3&context=574068&decrypt=&sequence=1&delivery=view&scaleType=contain&width=1006&height=611
I have attached a couple of [very unflattering] photos but thought you might be interested to see how the garment compares to the pattern image.
I didn't use canvas or heavyweight denim (which is what they recommend) which is why its a bit of a cocoon shape, rather than more A-line.
The pattern went together very easily and the pockets are easy and sit well.
The neck needs a bit of tweaking maybe simple darts at the neckline.
I will finish the toile and wear it indoors as its extremely comfortable.
I'll make it again in a black/white thickish linen which I bought at their shop. Its a size 18 (their largest size) and I'll cut it bigger next time.
https://merchantandmills.com/store/cloth/dash-dash-black/
(I live near Rye and visited their shop; they also have the garments made up as samples which you can try on.)
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Love this
(http://sewwardrobe.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/s/e/sew_wardrobe_suzy_pattern_4.jpg)
but it maybe largely due to the fabric.
Is it only me who cannot see the image?
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It's an image from elsewhere on the internet and it was posted over two years ago - I suspect the website concerned has moved or removed the image now.
FWIW it was an image on sewwardrobe.co.uk and seems to have been a pattern called Suzy, but I can't find it on their website.
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New to me..
https://ikatee.com/collections/women/products/elona-mum-blouse-dress-34-46-pdf-sewing-pattern
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Are there are other indy pattern companies who make a pattern with a Full Bust option?
I was really pleased with the fit of the full bust version of the Love Notions blouse I made and I wondered if any other companies made patterns with an FB option.
annie
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Itch to Stitch have a good range of bust sizes for each pattern @annieeg, at least there was on the last Envigado vest, I had to chop a lot out before I had it printed off, I'm at the bottom of the class with a bust.
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Hello Annie, I have been trying a couple of sloper patterns produced by Connie Crawford, to my knowledge there are three that she has produced with multiple choices for a fuller bust. CS1301 is a shoulder princess seamed top, CS1302 is an armhole princess seamed top and then there is another one which I do not have which is an ordinary button through blouse top with traditional side bust darts and waist darts. They come in multiple sizes Miss sizes 8-20 and go right up to a H/I sizing, and Womens 1X -6X and again right up to H/I sizing. So you select the size package, either Miss or Women and then within each package there are the different full bust pattern pieces. From memory there might even be a Tee shirt type top.
Try looking for these patterns particularly on IslanderSewing.com as they seem to have taken over Connie's patterns. Of course these all come over from the USA so do think about this when and if you order, I believe the Customs will pounce on anything over the £15ish mark so beware. Mine I had sent to my sister in Canada and she brought them over with her when she last visited me, as I had also bought a Grading Book which was quite expensive. At the time my order came directly from Connie and I believe that she may possibly be ill as I suddenly got a notification that Islander Sewing were going to be dealing with her patterns. Go and have a look and see - you may find something you like and that will save you a lot of time worrying about doing a FBA.
Incidentally I came across these sloper patterns in Threads Magazine of December/January 2014 called 'Add a Princess Seam' and the article involved was by Connie Crawford herself.
Hope this will be of some use to you.
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@Elnnina
Thank you! You are a wonderfully informative source on FBA's/patterns!
Maybe you should think about writing your own reference book 0_0 0_0
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Thank you both for your comment!!!!! Sadly having a rather larger bust has haunted me all my adult life, and I know only too well just how awkward it is to get a decent fit. I have often roped in Twopence to help me with fitting, and even with Connie's Slopers I have had to drop the bust shaping to suit my figure.
However having come to the conclusion that it is 'princess line' shaping that suits me, I will continue to try and vary my outfits a wee bit but keep the princess line seaming, and it will be back to the numerous toiles just to ensure that what I am trying to create is right for me. I go through copious amounts of calico - I am a good way through a 100mtr. bale of calico at the moment, and with the last Connie Sloper I had padded my dress form out so this is a tight fit on her thinking that that is my shape I can then fit closely to her and it should then be alright on me. However I am about to venture in some stretch fabrics and I wonder how they will turn out. Last time I sewed any stretch fabrics it was on a straight stitch machine with a ball point needle, well now I have more methods available with the various stitches on the sewing machine and also on an overlocker/coverstitcher - we shall see how I get on.
However Annie and Wrenkins do have a serious think about getting these slopers I think you might find they are just what you are wanting. If I can help any more please do ask. I expect a huge yell from both of you that you have succeeded once and for all!!!!
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You might find this of interest
https://curvysewingcollective.com/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizes-and-a-handy-reference/
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Ohsewsimple that is an excellent article and one I have printed off. That is a good article and explains very well how the various pattern fronts are cut and labelled, and that if you are a D cup fitting in a bra you do not necessarily need the D pattern piece as that is for us much larger ladies.
My fingers are crossed that somehow or other both Annie and Wrenkins can get their heads around this and find a way to get the fit they are needing.
It has taken me years and years to finally get the best fitting princess line seam and at this moment the shoulder version is better. I probably need to alter the armhole version by taking the seam up higher in the armhole. I noticed when there was a TV programme called The Queen's Green Planet back in April 2018 Radio Times featured HM on the front cover and HM was wearing a beautiful silk dress with armhole princess seams and these are indeed higher up than normal and it does look right - see I saved the cover on this especially to inspire me when I try this again.
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Glad you found it interesting @Elnnina. I’m another fan of princess seams but like the armhole version as I have narrow shoulders and it can look ridiculous. :)
I thought it was a great list to give people some idea of what the starting points will be on various patterns.
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I'm gunna @Elnnina I'm really gunna do it. 0_0
I found my last attempt still pinned to it's cardboard in the spare room and remembered why I stopped. The pulling and shaping for my FBA meant that the bottom point of the armhole had come up to meet just below the top point. :(
I downloaded a dress pattern yesterday form Itch to Stitch and did the DD copy so hopefully the adjustment will be a bit less and since it doesn't have actual armholes, but straps, I might manage to cobble something together. (The taping has been a nightmare. Not enough clues and the 'map' page is all blurry and miniscule). I've brought it into work to have another poke at it today. 0_0
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@wrenkins what method are you using for FBA? It should be possible to do it without having an armhole problem.
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@Ohsewsimple it's Palmer Pletsch very kindly sent to me by another busty doll. The difference between my upper bust and my full bust is nearly 12" (34"-45.5") so by the time I pull the bits to leave 6" either side, my armhole has become an eye hole! I have a boardful on Pinterest of every combination I can find and lots of info from @Elnnina.
The problem is that I have zero experience with adjusting patterns so when my darts open up to 4 or 5 inches and my armhole disappears I don't know how to fix it. None of the examples I find have such large differences. They tend to be for plump-all-overs. Size 12 can have any size knockers they like as long as they're not bigger than a DD. Mine are 34E F FF G GG H HH J JJ 0_0
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@wrenkins yep that is quite a big fba. Big fba's are better if the darting is distributed around the bodice. When I was at college my block had 3 darts in it as that was the way the tutor liked to do it rather than a massive dart. Do you know how to transfer darts from one place to another? Something else worth trying, if you haven’t already, is the Y shaped fba.
An alternative I might throw out here, is to use a larger size pattern and do the alterations you might need. So that would probably mean narrowing shoulders, reducing neck size and maybe reducing the back width. Not ideal but it’s all worth considering.
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I think that's the one Fran pointed me towards and I did try it but with inferior kit. ><
I'll do it again now that I have proper tracing paper of a decent size and a bit more reading behind me.
I'm only just a 12 since I put on a bit of lard round the middle but my frame is really small. Very narrow shoulders and size 4 feet :) so making a bigger size is out of the question (and well beyond me).
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It’s such a dilemma isn’t it? Well shout for help. Like Elnnina I like princess seams. I try other drafts but keep going back to it. :)
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I have just been rewatching the Full Busted DVD in particular the part where Marta is tissue fitting two well endowed ladies, the largest amount of FBA Marta had to make on a shoulder princess seam was three inches and she spread this over the two front parts of the panel. I was hoping that it might have been a bigger figure but no such luck. However Wrenkins I am sure we can get you there somehow or other - we just need to keep on thinking how!!!!! The two patterns that Marta has used on her DVD are both McCalls - one she calls a side panel is 5335 and the other a shoulder princess seam is 5242. The pattern 5335 definitely has all the preprinted extra lines for creating a FBA. Sadly both the patterns are discontinued but these are available as uncut and factory folded patterns in the USA - you just have to go looking. (when I first got the Full Busted DVD I made a note of the patterns Marta had used and those I was more interested in so started combing the internet for these - thinking that I can then copy exactly what Marta was doing and it is working)
In the past Wrenkins I think you mentioned that you thought princess seams were a bit 'dowdy looking' but they are not if that is the best sort of shaping for your particular body. Going back to the normal style of bodice, i.e. with side bust dart and a waist dart if these are too big then I personally think they draw attention to the bust whereas the princess seaming flatters the bust. I first came across princess seaming when I was still in my teens and just fell in love with them and again in the past I have used both the shoulder princess seams and the armhole princess seams, and guess what in those far distant days I had to hand neaten all the seams with blanket stitch and these were on dresses - it seemed to take forever but something I was prepared to do.
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I don't think princess seams are at all dowdy @Elnnina in fact I love them but since I was about twelve or thirteen I have avoided them because they make me look 'matronly'...at 13!?!?!?!
I love this one. :loveit:
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My apologies Wrenkins, it was the wrong word to use, however these seams can look good on younger lasses. I agree with you your photo shows this seaming off well. It is a pain having a well endowed bust, and I am sure that sooner or later we can all solve this for you. Just don't go giving up.
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It's a blinkin' nightmare. I range between Nora Batty and a porn star if I'm not careful what I wear. I live in overshirts. 0_0
I once bought a tea dress when they were the whole go and my mum said I looked like Auntie Nellie. (Auntie Nellie died in 1968 and wore giant flowery pinnies.) :o
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@wrenkins I'm very impressed that you can do porn star or Nora Batty - I just channel Nora Batty. :S
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I have not had much luck with cutting my own patterns for pants/ trousers so came across this pattern by Elbe Textiles.
It is for a pair of " Freemantle Pants".
The pants are unisex.
The pattern is down loadable and comes with comprehensive instructions.
I had the copy shop print off the pattern in full size and the instructions on A4 bound in book form.
The size range is enormous.
It is easy to understand and work out your size.
The waist is elasticated with draw string.
The model on their website is a mature bearded male wearing a long black shirt outside the pants which are also black in shade.
I think he looks really cool and so pleased that this pattern making business has included the more mature person in their agenda.
It is hard to make a mistake.
If one could be made, then I'm the one to do it.
I have my fabric ( denim) laid out ready for cutting.
I hope you will be able to find what I am describing as these are for boys and girls!!!
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Hmmm! I'm not sure that unisex trousers/pants will really work! Men's hips are much straighter than ladies' hips.
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Though having said that over the last few months I've sewn a couple of dozen sets of unisex scrub trousers - which fit where they touch and rely on the drawstring to hold them up! One thing I did wonder about though was the lack of a front fly opening. OK for ladies, but I'm not so sure about the men.
I am also wary that all the photos show the trousers being worn with overshirts. This sort of error is common amongst indi pattern designers. There is one on a lady which just about shows the waistband, and there is one where the trousers are being held - and the two waistband finishes look quite different.
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Hmmm! I'm not sure that unisex trousers/pants will really work! Men's hips are much straighter than ladies' hips.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Though having said that over the last few months I've sewn a couple of dozen sets of unisex scrub trousers - which fit where they touch and rely on the drawstring to hold them up! One thing I did wonder about though was the lack of a front fly opening. OK for ladies, but I'm not so sure about the men.
I am also wary that all the photos show the trousers being worn with overshirts. This sort of error is common amongst indi pattern designers. There is one on a lady which just about shows the waistband, and there is one where the trousers are being held - and the two waistband finishes look quite different.
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Do you have any suggestions for a pattern of this style that will work for a male?
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Nearly all of the drawstring trousers seem to be described as Unisex, so I guess it's down to how well the pattern fits you, and how loose or fitted you want them to be.
KwikSew 3663 (https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/k3663) is described as men's trousers.
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Take a look at Ellie and Mac Patterns (https://www.ellieandmac.com/collections/sewing-patterns).
Download PDF patterns
Several for larger bodies
Bundle packs available for capsule wardrobes or me + mini me versions.
(End October half price sale just now).
Treated myself to 4 patterns for less than £15 (would have been rude not to)
Looking forward to making the Transformer Hoodie and the Cuddle Tunic
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https://www.twigandtale.com/collections/adults-1?page=3 (https://www.twigandtale.com/collections/adults-1?page=3)
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Thanks @Morgan just downloaded several Ellie & Mack. 0_0
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new pattern from Itch to Stitch ..
https://itch-to-stitch.com/product/gothenburg-top-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/
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Can I suggest https://sinclairpatterns.com/
They are mainly for knits and of the tee shirt/ sweatshirt variety but I have made several recently and have been very pleased with the drafting and the fit.
At the moment I'm living in jeans and knit pants and their various tops provide something a little more interesting than the normal sweatshirt.
The only pattern I haven't liked was the Kiki Briefs.
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And if you do buy a pdf pattern from an indie company in A0 format I definitely recommend Patternsy for printing. £2.50 per page (a Stylearc pattern is usually 2 pages). They are good at interpreting my obscure instructions and the pattern arrives the next day on nice strong tissue paper. Patterns that are only on A4 work out more expensive to print (though they can reconstruct a set of A4s onto one big page I believe) but definitely worth it for large page pdfs.
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Some more indie patterns.
only one at moment (https://www.sewlovepatterns.com/) but there is a list of website shops that sell ethical fabric.
one for the young and slim (https://www.etsy.com/shop/nhpatterns)
another one (https://fieldworkpatterns.com/)
anti trim pdf's (https://www.sewandtellpatterns.com/)
sew to grow (https://www.sewtogrow.com.au/shop?Collection=Downloadable+PDFs)
good selection of kids as well as adult patterns (https://www.theelimonster.com/shop/)
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The Sew love jumpsuit (https://www.sewlovepatterns.com/) is lovely.
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I don't normally bother with jumpsuits - you need a waist to do them justice! - but that one is nice.
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Jumpsuits are the work of the devil - inconvenient to say the least, and any that I've ever tried on have been too short in the body - ouch! However that one by Sew Love would convert to a two piece without too much trouble.
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Instructions? What are those?
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Jumpsuits are the work of the devil - inconvenient to say the least, and any that I've ever tried on have been too short in the body - ouch! However that one by Sew Love would convert to a two piece without too much trouble.
Yesterday my 'don't like it' cat food was collected by someone I knew from my past working life. She arrived wearing one of those plastic masks that hook on and what could only be described as very loose and baggy dungarees. I just wanted to laugh and then thought, well then perhaps I'm old fashioned. I just can't see me in them though. Nice pattern on the fabric though.
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Not just you @Gernella. I have a sneaky suspicion that the baggy patterns are just lazy draughting. I'm average height & on the chubby side but baggy stuff swamps me & makes me feel dowdy. Each to their own though.
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I can't stand dungarees or anything one piece. I have a long body and big boobs, size 10 hips, size 12 waist and size 16 boobs. There isn't a pattern on the planet that would fit that lot and I don't have the time or inclination to try and adjust a pattern to fit.
All in ones are the work of the devil :devil:
BB
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I agree, @Bumblebuncher my stats are similar to yours. No way would I struggle into an all in one. And the loo issue is a major one for me, I'm shuddering at the thought of dashing into a public convenience and having to completely undress. I did wear a 'flying suit' (as it was called back in the day) way back in the early 1980s, can't remember where I bought it but I loved it on me then. But that was then, and now is now, and I'm older, wiser and with a considerably weaker bladder :laughing:
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I did make a 'jumpsuit' a la Anneka Rice, probably in the early 80's. I remember buying the fabric & pattern in John Lewis. It was before I knew about altering patterns & I was a standard 12. When I finished it I couldn't sit down in it, the colour didn't suit me so it went in the bin. I later found out I have a long torso. Or short legs. Either way, I agree with @Nevis5, not going there again.
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I made a yellow jumpsuit in the 1970s. DH (not DH then) borrowed it, and my yellow sailing boots, to go to a fancy dress party as a banana. :laughing: I remember going to said party as a 'spiv', wearing a bloke's suit with a coat hanger up my back for extra shoulder width, wearing a black shirt and white tie and offering to sell other party goers nylons. I think I'd been watching too much Dad's Army.
When we got married (> 40 years ago) our going away outfits were matching white shirts and black cord dungarees! So I do have a fondness for dungarees and jumpsuits. Apart from the bladder issue.... ahem..... I think I have too much tum now to wear these successfully. Basically, it seems you don't want too much sticking out whether it's in the abdominal area or further up! However, Siobhan McSweeny, an actress I like, wore a number of nice dungarees and jumpsuits in the Pottery Throwdown series and looked great in them. She is by no means ultra thin but she is a lot younger than me so maybe that's the answer!
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I think it's just a matter of once you attempt to wear an adult "onesie"/jumpsuit - the overwhelming majority of women will make a never to be forgotten mental note to never try anything so silly again!
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Well, I really enjoyed making the 2 I made for my daughter. She loves wearing them.
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1991, I spent a few months in Scotland on a course at my employer's main office. In the middle of nowhere they could wear what they liked and on the first day one of the locals turned up looking like Andy Pandy. Somebody from further south, thought she looked very fashionable.
Nearest I got to adventuress was hot pants with a dress split to the waist. DH loved them.
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I agree, @Bumblebuncher my stats are similar to yours. No way would I struggle into an all in one. And the loo issue is a major one for me, I'm shuddering at the thought of dashing into a public convenience and having to completely undress. I did wear a 'flying suit' (as it was called back in the day) way back in the early 1980s, can't remember where I bought it but I loved it on me then. But that was then, and now is now, and I'm older, wiser and with a considerably weaker bladder :laughing:
More than a few years ago I made a fabulous black silk culottes-dress-playsuit. It had a sheer yoke, so I sewed in a strapless bra which I thought could double as a stay. It would have been a great idea in a dress. In the toilet of a nightclub, I realised my error as it meant I had to pretty much get naked to use the loo! :laughing:
On the other hand I do like a good pair of dungarees, but the I usually wear a t-shirt under those!
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I think it's just a matter of once you attempt to wear an adult "onesie"/jumpsuit - the overwhelming majority of women will make a never to be forgotten mental note to never try anything so silly again!
There was a thread on mumsnet, recently, where someone had got stuck in a jumpsuit that was too short on the body!
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Just want to add some musings on the quality of independent patterns.
Positive experiences include:
Merchant and Mills - sparse instructions but they work and everything fits. Beautiful aesthetic, of course. I've worked my way through a lot of their catalogue!
Tilly and the buttons - every pattern is a tutorial. It's not all my style but I would recommend to anyone needing hand holding.
Sew house seven. Recently made the tea house top and, while there are things I would adjust again when I make it again, it was such a precise, satisfying sew and the instructions and online sewalong are exemplary.
Megan nielsen - have the opal pants pattern and so far use it twice. Well drafted, well written, lots of options.
Not so positive.
Liesl & Co. Classic shirt. Lacking online support. I've made shirts before but, as a returner, still needed some refreshing. There is a sewalong and it adds nothing to the booklet. My project has been in the sin bin for almost a year because the collar wasn't fitting and I got annoyed with it.
Grainline studio - how much for a simple sweatshirt with no variations? I only bought it because printer is knackered and various suitable pdf options wouldn't save me anything. Even then, the neckband was far too big, so if I hadn't worked my way through Tilly's stretch book, I would have been frustrated and disappointed.
Fancy tiger crafts. Currently making a Brome top. Nothing fits. The drafting is terrible and the instructions are all over the place.
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I've only ever made one Tilly pattern. I reckon she makes them for my 20yr old self. I 'stretched' the fabric according to her instructions and thought I had enough, I added from the armholes and down because it seemed to go in a lot to me. It was still a bit close fitting, which is fine in winter but too hot in summer.
My staple New Look top pattern has a sleeve from a McCalls pattern along with the neck band.
I stopped using Simplicity years ago when a jacket turned out massive with chunks having to be taken out of the body. Butterick tend to run small (on me), McCalls about right, same with Vogue and Itch to Stitch. Waffle, made for small boned Japanese ladies and not big boned British.
I have yet to start my Stylearc and I do fancy the Grainline top to try. I also have a Jennifer Stern one which has not been printed off yet.
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I don't know why I buy patterns! They need so much adjustment I never end up with much of the original (and I will mess around with the things to get what I wanted, not what they give me).
I have however bought Vogue, McCalls and New Look in recent years, but New Look was more for DD's. But that is only in sales at half price and tends to be for a bit of a pattern to see how it is done.
The independents all seem too basic and as I have patterns dating back to the 60's see no reason to buy them, nothing new there so I move along.
And so many free patterns online, if I have to make adjustments I might as well do it on a free pattern and not pay for it!
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I don't know why I buy patterns! They need so much adjustment I never end up with much of the original (and I will mess around with the things to get what I wanted, not what they give me).
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Sounds familiar @Bumblebuncher. I messed around with an Ottobre coat pattern and it’s not bad. But still wondering whether to just scrap it and draft one myself.
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The independents all seem too basic and as I have patterns dating back to the 60's see no reason to buy them, nothing new there so I move along.
I had to chuck my old patterns away @Bumblebuncher I'd moved up, to a 16 when I started sewing again. Although I never did tops unless woven fabrics, mostly dresses and duster coats :laughing:
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@Gernella I have patterns that go from a size 10 (from the 60's so more a size 6/8 now >:) ) to a size 22! I have been a size 10-22 through the years:scream:
As most patterns are graded in sizes and cover a range, you can see where the adjustments are made by the company and carry it on a bit further, adding a bit here and there (or taking it off) to get the size you want.
It is second nature to me to play with the pattern while cutting out as there is never enough boobie :laughing:
I can pretty much do an FBA without any measuring or calculating these days and just do the adjustment while cutting out!
I also change the pattern with little things like adding a hood to a blouse pattern as I cut out. Not had any major disasters but wouldn't win me any prizes :dance:
BB
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I have made a few Marfy patterns, beautiful designs but no instructions at all. I made my MOG outfit for my sons wedding from a pattern of theirs.
There are some nice new patterns this season.
https://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-7044.html . I rather fancy this jacket if I could find some faux sheepskin with a lovely outer finish.
They make me wish I was a stylish Italian older lady, sipping espresso and eating tiny pastries in a cafe on a palazzo. They make lovely little bite size pastries so you don't get crumbs on your perfectly fitted trousers or skirt. I would also have a stylish older man in english tailored jacket and trousers accompanying me. Ah well, back to reality ( Dh is wearing a fleece and extremely old almost ragged trousers with his feet on the coffee table.)
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@Starryfish I would take being a stylish anything :laughing:
Plus a rich, stylish older man would complete the dream ;)
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Oh yes @Starryfish maybe I’ll join you. I’d be dressed in silk and cashmere. And I think a glass of Prosecco would be required as well.
My 'stylish older man' is sat in his grubby gardening jumper and baggy jeans stuffing crisps! :laughing:
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I like Style Arc as they seem to fit me with very little alteration although the instructions are fairly minimal. Of the Big 4 only Vogue is a decent fit, Simplicity always run big and I don't like either Butterick or McCalls.
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@sochic,
Simplicity have been running big for 50 years in my experience. I still remember the dress I made ( by hand in my bedsit) to wear to the rather hurried wedding of two friends. :[
It was too big all over, a strange feeling, I was a size 8 at the time. Fast forward 40 years to the first skirt I made after coming back to sewing, I made a size 12 , it spun round and round on my waist. Who needs that much ease?
Style Arc is the mainstay of my wardrobe these days. The right amount of ease every time.
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Hi! new here!
If I can also recommend such a site with PDF Patterns (also easy level) -
:angel: not so objective because its a friend of mine but it is an interesting up-to-date fashion trends patterns and interesting content.
Edit by moderator : Link removed. 25 posts needed before links may be posted. Please see relevant paragraph in the membership agreement
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New Indie pattern company. Only 4 patterns so far but the coat and trousers look interesting here (https://www.daughterjudypatterns.com/collections/all)