The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Manuela on May 28, 2018, 10:51:14 AM
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I've been wanting to make a Mondrian dress for ages, but was never quite sure what fabric to use and where to get it in the required colours. The original was apparently made of wool jersey, something I just can't imagine wearing in hot and humid Hong Kong.
I came to the conclusion that cotton sateen would be my favourite fabric for it :)
This is what I want, what I really really want (just with a slightly different neckline)
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... been searching how it might look at the back...
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Bought the fabric, now waiting for it to arrive 8)
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I am sure yours will be an excellent rendition. Fabrickated did a a version too and blogged about it here (https://fabrickated.com/2014/04/29/my-favourite-dress/).
A hack
(https://www.sewessential.co.uk/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/vogue_1557-1024x602.jpg)
was rushed out following a Sewing bee challenge, but the discussion at the time was that it wasn't like the original.
I love this dress too, but have too many inconvenient lumps and bumps. 0_0
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Thanks Utta, I know about Kate's (we met when we stayed in London for a week a few years back).
I'm going to adapt my shift dress pattern - making a muslin and then fiddling around with the colour blocking until I'm happy with it and using the muslin as the final pattern.
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Saint Laurent did different versions of the Mondrian, but no pattern company seems to have recreated the above. Simplicity did
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/a1/00/91/a100916dc77bf760d5117d2773f619d5.jpg)
an almost, but I have found nothing closer.
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This’ll be super in a weighty cotton instead of wool. Looking forward to it.
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This is going to be interesting, Manuela. I'm going to enjoy seeing this come together.
Simplicity also did pattern number 6384, issued in 1965...virtually identical to the one you've shown UttaRetch. This is a 'cheat' version with the coloured blocks simply applied to the surface of the dress, and black ribbon stitched over the top of it. It's no where near as complicated in the construction we were shown on GBSB.
I had an original copy of the Vogue pattern 1557 and sold it on Ebay last year( sold for about £60 :))....traced the pieces off first, just in case I'm ever tempted to try making one.
There's also a cute kids version from Simplicity, 6432, also issued in 1965.
Sandra.
xxx
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(https://vignette.wikia.nocookie.net/vintagepatterns/images/f/f3/Simplicity6384a.jpg)
I prefer 6400.
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6384 definitley has an angled bust dart, all the othres look as though what shaping there is is hidden in the seams and the jersey version would have got away with minimul shaping, relying on the stretch of the fabric.
The basic shift dress of the 1960s didn't have much shaping, usually just a horizontal bust dart. I remember making a couple of those shifts by cutting round a RTW dress.
To make a 'Mondrian' pattern of your own you'd need a basic bodice block extended down to knee level (make sure it gets wide enough at the hips) and then draw your own version of the stripes and rectangles. Chop it up, add seam allowances and that's it! If you can manage to get a stripe to coincide with the dart so much the better.
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Being a D to DD cup, concealing the bust dart is not really an option, and the tailor in me refuses to put the amound anywhere into those panels above the bust, so the dress will have bust darts. Some waist definition/shaping can be done at the vertical seams as well as the side seams - I like the loose fit at the waist.
I like the gentle assymmetry of the version I posted and have the block pattern I want to use identified.
Now I need to get length and neckhole exactly the way I want, then I can play with the proportions .
To me it looks that the yellow panel at the bottom is exactly as wide as the yoke at the centre front - sans the black strips/panels.
The black bits are not the same width throughout the dress, again I like that, it adds interest while still looking simple, my guess at the moment is that the wider ones are 4cm and the narrower are 3m - need to play with that.
The original (top picture) looks like there is a small difference in length at the middle section - the top once looks slightly shorter than the bottom one (exactly the opposite from the bottom picture). I think I like the original more...
Here what I ordered yesterday - all cotton sateens
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I choose a slightly darker blue I like a lot
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Looking at those pictures, the two sections in the middle look almost like they have the same length...
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So, I'll make what looks best on me. When I looks at these, the difference in width of the black sections looks more pronounced, here I'd guess 3cm for the narrow strips and 5cm for the wider ones - food for thought, a lot to play with :D
Here the white base fabric, again a cotton sateen
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I'll line the whole dress with Bemberg.
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been searching how it might look at the back...
Now I know I know absolutely nothing about garment making, but .... just an observation ...
If you look at the two pics at the very start of this thread ... the reverse view cannot be the reverse of the front view
If you look at the front view pic you can see the colour change at the shoulder seam .....
Red on the righthand side of back and white on the lefthand side of the back
which is most certainly not what is shown in the rear view pic.
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been searching how it might look at the back...
Red on the righthand side of back and white on the lefthand side of the back
which is most certainly not what is shown in the rear view pic.
That's what I was just about to write!
Play around with all the colour placements - take @Bodgeitandscarper 's advice to make a few quick sketches and try colouring in the various sections differently to get what you like.
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@Iminei: I don't think the back is meant to be a reverse of the front. If you look at this
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/da/52/2b/da522bf8dd109bea520452ccff88e025.jpg)
you will see that the back of the blue front panel is white BUT I think that blue was moved to the opposite shoulder on the back.
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I understand that UR; i was pointing out that the two pictures were not of the same dress ... tho I suppose the giveaway could be the model herself, but the dress might have been made from the same pattern I s'pose
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@Iminei I am aware that the pictures or not of the same dress. My main convern was whether the back is plain or has coloured panels as well.
Once I've fitted the muslin, I'll first work on the front and then tackle the back.
I like how this looks at the back....
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Progress update:
I decided to go with Vogue 1557, but had to amend it quite a bit. Got the fit nearly nailed, this is the second muslin.
Still to do
- another 1/2 inch FBA
- quite a bit of scooping at the neck
- take in the yoke at the CF about 1/2 inch (total)
- lower front yoke seam 5/8 inch
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Changes on the first muslin were:
1/2 inch FBA
Straightened the shoulder seam 5/8" at front and back (I have very straight shoulders)
Shortened CB 1/2" between neck hole and waist (I also have a very straight back)
Scooped out front and back neckhole - it is very narrow at the pattern, and I don't have a wide neck :o
I'm ready to start with the colour
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Oh I love that style, I had one very similar in the late 60's and wore it till it virtually dropped to bits, mine was black, bright red and white, it was the mini skirted version and I think I got it off Carnaby Street when it was the "in" place to go for clothes. I can't really remember what it was made from possibly something like a Trevera but I remember there was no stretch in it.
I can't wait to see it when you've finished it Manuela
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I am sure it's going to be exquisite @Manuela.
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So excited to see this Manuela, looks stunning already.
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The white fabric has just arrived, it's currently being pre-shrunk in the washing machine. I'd better get on with planning the colour blocking...
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Still thinking and planning....
This pictures shows vertical black strips on the side seams, not sure about them. Thoughts?
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Given the amount of fabric I got, I might as well utilise it and make two versions of the dress. The original Vogue 1557 first...
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.... and then fine tune the colour blocks for the more more colourful version. That gives me time to mull over the side seam thingy. Thoughts/opinions on thos strips are more than welcome.
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I would be inclined to put black strips on the side seams of the plainer version for balance.
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I would be inclined to put black strips on the side seams of the plainer version for balance.
I've cut the plain version a short while ago and started assembling it, will play around with strips and see whether or not I like them on the sides.
At the moment it's a nay though. On the other hand, they'd be optically slimming, hmm
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0_0 I have a bias against white clothing and never wear the colour. I think the original Vogue pattern looks rather plain and I wouldn't make in white at all.
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I think the black stripes along the seams would provide a frame for the plainer version. I'm fascinated by your thinking process though and look forward to seeing the results!
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@UttaRetch black and white looks good on me, due to my colouring (I'm cool, clear and deep) and I love wearing both colours on their own as well...
After playing with the black strips and the half assembled dress on the dress form, I decided to stick the the original with the plainer version. The black strips on the sides bothered me - I can't explain why though.
It'll have a black stripe down the centre back, unlike the new version of Vogue 1575 which has a plain white back.
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(https://i.imgur.com/TkcDRVA.jpg)
Strange decision not to include the centre back stripe on the reissue.
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I prefer the look of the dress without the side stripes.
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Not only that, the strip at them hem is definitely wider than the other strips on the original. On the reissue oall the black bits have the same width.
I think they dumbed down the pattern... >:)
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I think it's better without the side strips. It looks cleaner and sleeker and I don't think you need the slimming effect!
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No side strips, it'll spoil it.
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I think it's better without the side strips. It looks cleaner and sleeker and I don't think you need the slimming effect!
Yep, that was the bit that bothered me - it'd look cleaner without the strips at the side seams. Thank you @Greybird for pointing that out.
As for the idea of not needing the the slimming effect - menopause is not kind and I am battling its spread around the waist :S
I'm the first to admit that I am vain - but only when I look in the mirror/judge myself, I don't give a rodent's patootie (thank you @Renegade Sewist for enhancing my vocabulary) about what other people think of what I'm wearing :devil:
Then again, I strongly believe that designers like Yves Saint Laurent knew what they were doing, hence the plain version of the dress won't have black stripe on the side seams.
Looking at the whole picture of the second dress, I think I'm going to make it exactly the way the original was done. The black strips at the side seams counter-balance the horizontal lines... (this is what I think at the moment..)
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You see, the black stripe down the side is precisely what I like about the colour block version, and agree with @Nevis5 that they would 'frame' the plainer version. However, I know that yours will be excellent versions.
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Thought you may like this variation on a theme (https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/731201689471167389/) and these too (https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/392728029978016113/)
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@Morgan thank you, I like the denim dress - a lot...
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The pattern has a problem that is somewhat obvious on the picture at the pattern envelope.
I noticed it on both muslins. The yoke seam has (bust) shaping and sits very high, this leads to too much fabric sitting at the upper bust. I had to reduce that at the CF twice, but it still didn't look right. Adding to that is that the black strips are cut straight - so the strip at the yoke won't lie flat ( forgot to take a 'before' picture). I recut the strip and shaped it like the yoke - basically lenghtening it - and am now happy with the result. The fullness and shaping is closer to where it belongs.
Here is the 'after' picture
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You know me....I was looking at all of this, thinking about options, considering Mondrian's philosophy of work and that to him these were actually nature paintings, distilled down to their very essence. So I'm thinking the first version is fine with plain vanilla sides, but the more complex version should have the side strips, to help reinforce the modular aspects of the pattern as well as continue with the rhythm of the whole thing. Then my inner Nene speaks up, and keeping with the nature theme wants to suggest the side strip on just one side. :devil:
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Hee hee... rodent's patootie, not to be confused with a Sweet Patootie. (Early 20th century American colloquialism for pretty girl or sweetheart.)
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Thanks everybody for the input. I watched a documentary on the BBC about abstract art with a segment about Piet Mondrian in it. I also had a good look at his art - online and in the library.
The more I researched, the more I understood YSL's interpretation, including the different width of the black stripes.
Progress pictures:
problem solved, the front looks smooth
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zipper well hidden in the centre back stripe - which also means it's slightly off centre (need to account for that when doing the lining)
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Slight thread drift, sorry @Manuela, but I love this
(https://i.imgur.com/uZhgizG.jpg)
and it work better for my hourglass shape.
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@UttaRetch it's gorgeous, but would need to be done in a beefy knit. Otherwise the lines would be broken/disturbed by the seams and darts necessary for shaping.
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I'm loving this thread. I am way too long in the tooth for this frock (my darling 15 year old son keeps accusing me of having bingo wings, the wretch!) and I never wear frocks in any event, but I'm really looking forward to seeing how this turns out. :loveit:
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Looks lovely already Manuela.
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I made good progress on the dress and really enjoy the precision sewing it requires. Already looking forward to the second version.
Won't get anything done before late next week, due to the school trip to Thailand. I don't think me bringing a sewing machine along to a geography field trip (with a few adventures) would be appreciated :devil: We'll be back late on June 27th, which is in the last week of term. Then I'll fully dive into my summer break projects :loveit:
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The first version is done and I am very happy with the result.
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The next version won't have a full length zipper. Given that there is hardly any waist shaping, there is no need for it - the zipper will end at the back yoke.
I'll start with the more complex version of the dress next week :vintage: :frock: :thread:
ETA: The vertical strips and the strip at the front are 4cm wide, the strip at the bottom is 5cm wide. In hindsight, I think the bottom strip on the original is 6cm wide, I prefer the 5cm width I did on my dress though.
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Manuela, that is beautiful!
Jessie
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Lovely work. There's something very satisfying about maths & precision stitching.
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gorgeous! I want to see it on YOU though!
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I so love that dress
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gorgeous! I want to see it on YOU though!
That'll have to wait until Mr Manuela uses me for wedding picture practice. He'll be the father of the bride, the driver and the photographer...
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I was just wondering how the Mondrian project was coming along. Fablous and we want to see you wearing the dress.
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Lovely dress!
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@Manuela
Wow!! Absolutely stunning and like everyone else, can't wait to see a photo of you wearing your dress!!
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Manuela
I think your dress is fantastic!
Anniegg
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I spent all day getting the proportions right and cutting the second dress. It's almost like 2 quilting blocks ;)
Here a first glimpse
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Oh my. The first dress is gorgeous. The second one is going to be spectacular! xx
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I agree with Nevis5. This one is going to be a stunner.
Sandra.
xxx
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Oh wow, Manuela, that is going to be stunning.
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I still have oodles of fabric left... I might end up making a Mondrian quilt from the leftovers, it'd fit nicely into our place in Thailand.
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That second one is setting up to be gorgeous!
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Just love what you are doing with this dress the colours are gorgeous and will look stunning when you have finished. I thought the way you put the zip in on the first dress was very clever. You will turn many heads when you wear these dresses.
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Wow fantastic. Can't wait to see the final thing.
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The second (and final) Mondrian Dress is finished. I'm happy with the outcome, almost lost the will to continue though. Although I love precision sewing, this was insane - even 2mm off were visible...
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I chose a red zipper, it ends at the black strip.
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The wide strips are 4.5cm wide the narrower ones 3cm - this is how I 'read' the pictures.
Side view:
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At some point I will make a Mondrian inspired quilt from the leftover fabric, but first I need to do some easy-peasy project to keep my sewing mojo up.
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It's lovely Manuela! You must have lots of patience!
Beautiful work.
Jessie
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Wow. Just wow. xxx
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Gosh!! That's some precision sewing, well done :)
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No words really other than you are very talented.
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That is amazing - especially that zip! And I don't like zips!
:toast:
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Oh, isn't that just the loveliest dress?! <3
It's a shame to hear it wasn't much fun to make. Enjoy wearing it. It's gorgeous.
Sandra.
xxx
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@Manuela: top notch sewing, BUT we need to see a live body in both dresses. :D
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Sublime.
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@Manuela: top notch sewing, BUT we need to see a live body in both dresses. :D
I put that onto Mr Manuela's 'to do' list. I wants me to be his victim to practice photography and explore different lenses (his daughter roped him in to be the wedding photographer)...