The Sewing Place
The Emporia => A bit of a 'do' => Topic started by: charlotte on June 03, 2020, 10:41:11 AM
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Now that I have drafted the pattern and done my toile fitting for my wedding dress, I am embarking on a 'practice dress', using the same pattern, with a shorter, slightly less full, skirt, and a sheer yoke, rather than a full bodice overlay. The fabric is Liberty's Tana Lawn in "Eltham" (which I where I live, although unfortunately not in the actual palace the print is named after!) The yoke is a coordinating silk organza, which I will also use as an overlay on the waistband. I am just finishing off the bodice, so I thought I would share some progress shots.
Here is the right side. You can see the edge of the waist stay and wrong side of the corselette peeking out underneath. I didn't need to use the fashion fabric for the boning channels, but I had a long selvage edge so I went for it. I am currently finishing off the bias binding by hand around the neck and armholes.
(https://i.imgur.com/YIH62aCl.jpg)
And here is the inside. I used self-fabric for the corselette, which makes it tricky to photograph, but I think you can just make out the hanging loops, foam lined cups and underwires. I machined the two layers together but on my wedding dress I will attach them by hand. I still need to understitch, which I will do by hand.
(https://i.imgur.com/JvGonsel.jpg)
And here from the back. The back panels of the bodice are not joined to the corselette so that they can fasten independently. I sewed the hooks and eyes in individually, which I think was ultimately easier than using tape, after watching lingerie week of GBSB! The waist and bust stays are elastic and fasten together at the waist due to the low back. They are secured at the centre front of the corselette and threaded through gaps left in the boning channels to keep them in position. The bottom edge of the corselette is finished with bias binding.
(https://i.imgur.com/JvvdzGCl.jpg)
Possibly the most exciting part: corded rouleau loops and buttons! I made the loops myself but the buttons I had covered.
(https://i.imgur.com/tPjlEuJl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/2topLD1l.jpg)
Once I have completed all the hand finishing on the bodice, I just need to sew the skirt seams (and inseam pockets, obviously) then attach the skirt and bodice with the waistband and hem it! I think that will all come together quite quickly, but we will see!
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That is gorgeous! It's going to be so useful having a hidden trial run for your wedding dress - you'll know if anything isn't absolutely as you want it to look and feel throughout the day.
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@charlotte that is absolutely stunning. Can’t wait to see it finished. Where did you get your silk from? I agree about the hand finishing. It’s so much nicer and more flexible than machining.
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@charlotte seriously impressive! Is this what you do for a living? I`m wondering how you learnt how to do it
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That looks lovely!
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That’s some dress!.... love to see the finished article
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You should wear it as your wedding dress!
It's beautiful and such excellent workmanship.
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Where did you get your silk from?
It was from Euro Fabrics on eBay (silk organza, light China rose). I really like them for high quality plain coloured fabric. The cotton lawn underlining from my wedding dress is from them as well.
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@charlotte seriously impressive! Is this what you do for a living? I`m wondering how you learnt how to do it
Not at all - I'm a civil servant!! I am mostly self-taught. My mum showed me the machine/ dressmaking basics, and I have done a lot of reading and online classes - Winifred Aldrich and Suzy Furrer for pattern drafting, and then Alison Smith, Claire Shaeffer and Susan Khalje are my go-to authors/teachers for couture techniques! I am very sad that Bluprint (formerly Craftsy) is closing down, as I probably learned most from online classes there.
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Beautiful! You have great sewing skills. Where did you learn to sew? (Now answered!)
I'm intrigued by the covered buttons, I didn't know that you could get them covered. I have always done my own, with mixed results as it's very fiddly.
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I’m a huge fan of Claire Shaeffer, have several of her books and a video. Also have Susan Khalje's bridal book. Stuffed full,of useful info not just for wedding gowns. Even now I might flick through some of these and think 'ooh, that’s a useful tip or trick I didn’t know'.
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That is utterly beautiful @charlotte and the finish is excellent.
My only comment would be in regards to your wedding dress, I would make the waist stay non-elasticated. Its purpose is to support the weight of the skirt, which given your wedding dress will have a fuller skirt and therefore be heavier, an elasticated stay will not support as much as non-elasticated.
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I'm intrigued by the covered buttons, I didn't know that you could get them covered. I have always done my own, with mixed results as it's very fiddly.
Mine were from Bridal Covered Buttons (https://www.bridalcoveredbuttons.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5q6x8sXl6QIVwevtCh1MEwj4EAAYASAAEgKMmfD_BwE). They were very quick and (I thought) very reasonably priced. They do loops as well, but I wasn't ready to commit to the spacing.
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Beautiful work. :)
Sandra.
xxx
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That’s wonderful,you should be very proud.
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I was tempted to say you should go on Sewing Bee - but actually you are far more skilled than any of them and I can`t see you wanting to waste your time converting a shopping bag into a frock
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@charlotte that is seriously lovely, I'm sure your wedding :frock: will be stunning.
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I was tempted to say you should go on Sewing Bee
The sewing bee (https://i.imgur.com/UnfWx1o.png) is all about speed. It is not the arena for turning out quality work.
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The sewing bee (https://i.imgur.com/UnfWx1o.png) is all about speed. It is not the arena for turning out quality work.
I've seen only 1 episode and maybe a glimpse of another and that was my impression. The children and friends used to tell me to apply but I told them there is no way I could turn out what they want in the time they give. My work has to look as good inside as it does outside and there is now way that would happen on The Sewing Bee. I'd hate to see the insides of the stuff they make.
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Beautiful work, Charlotte.
I presume you have someone who is able to help you with the fitting. That's what I lack!
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Sewing Bee is my idea of a nightmare! I know someone who made it through to the auditions and they told you to do things like only turning hems up once, leaving a raw edge. :scream:
For someone who last week spent the best part of a day making and sewing on button loops, the idea of sewing a collared rugby shirt in three hours makes me want to start hyperventilating!!
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I presume you have someone who is able to help you with the fitting. That's what I lack!
Not really at the moment! My partner tries his best, but he often declares things like doing up a zip "too fiddly" so asking him to start pinning makes his eyes widen in terror!! (I think he might have a pin phobia, as he gets very cross when he finds random pins around the house... apparently they "could stab him" 0_0) Plus, we decided he wouldn't see the wedding dress toile, so I just had my Mum on FaceTime to help with that!! He has helped a bit with this one, as he doesn't know it's my "practice dress"! I do have a fairly accurate dress form, which helps a lot, but it is definitely not perfect.
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Not really at the moment! My partner tries his best, but he often declares things like doing up a zip "too fiddly" so asking him to start pinning makes his eyes widen in terror!! (I think he might have a pin phobia, as he gets very cross when he finds random pins around the house... apparently they "could stab him" 0_0) Plus, we decided he wouldn't see the wedding dress toile, so I just had my Mum on FaceTime to help with that!! He has helped a bit with this one, as he doesn't know it's my "practice dress"! I do have a fairly accurate dress form, which helps a lot, but it is definitely not perfect.
Well, you've done a mighty job!
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@charlotte You might try the small magic clips instead of pins. (Like clothes pegs for sewing) He probably won't be afraid of them although they might nip! I don't know how firmly they would hold when you take the fitted dress off, but he could always put a fabric marker line at the base of each clip- both sides. Then all you have to do it join up the lines.
Thinks -must try and see how firmly they hold under those circumstances.
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Glorious!
I used to have covered buttons made for me when I had the waistcoat business!
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Beautiful work. I agree that the waist stay shouldn't be elasticated considering its purpose. I put them in flamenco dresses where there is not a lot of back coverage and a lot of skirt weight. Elasticated just doesn't cut it, I've tried, still had a lot of bounce and a tendency to drop. Especially those having a long frilled train that weigh a dead donkey!
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Finished!
It has a hand-picked centred zip, horsehair braid in the hem and is pictured over a poly-organza tiered petticoat (from Amazon, although I will be making the one to go under my actual wedding dress from tulle and dress net).
I got some excellent pattern matching in places, some slightly jarring repeats in others but I am very happy with the overall look.
(https://i.imgur.com/6PoGYBjl.jpg)
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Well done Charlotte that looks a pretty good fit and so unusual. So you are well on your way to start sewing your real dress now - just enjoy every minute of this time.
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Lovely job.
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Lovely dress. I'm very impressed that you pattern matched the print.
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Charlotte, this is utterly beautiful, not really a practice dress, more like a lovely cocktail dress.