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Messages - AnneFrances

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Fun with Fabric / Re: Hiking trouser fabric
« on: November 23, 2021, 14:00:03 PM »
Just to add two things. I have finally got around to getting samples from Pennine Outdoor and then putting in an order for their P1M fabric.  I do have to say that their service is *outstanding*  :perfect10:.  I emailed them about samples and got some 48 hours later. I ordered the full fabric  length on Sunday afternoon and the package arrived via Royal Mail at very reasonable postage charges this (Tuesday) lunchtime.  I had added a note to the order to request Ventile samples and they were included ( no extra cost). 
If the pair in the P1M work out well I might splash out on another pair in Ventile, but it is very expensive - between £30 and £35 a metre from both Pennine Outdoor and Point North (who price by the half metre).
I'm trying a pattern from Pattern Adventure who say they produce a more or less individualised draft ( at a price!). I haven't yet got it printed out - I shall be intrigued to see how it compares to my trouser block, which is the outcome of (literally) years of mock-ups (toiles) and fitting!

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Fun with Fabric / Re: Hiking trouser fabric
« on: July 31, 2021, 12:50:52 PM »
Thank you all so much for your thoughts.  I would indeed have gone for the Active Fabric possibilities, but they ship from Germany, which post-Brexit means that there would be a risk of,  I guess, an extra £20 or more for handling and customs, and that does tend to make expensive fabric  even dearer. But I may  have to end up doing that. 
I don't  want actual waterproof fabric and I think the Ottobre fabric is really meant for rainjackets, but it was useful to be reminded of them.
A fortuitously timely post on Pattern Review prompted me to search on ultraviolet protective fabric rather than terms like breathable that I had been using, and it seems that Pennine Outdoor's P2B  or possibly even better  P1M  might work.  I think I'm going to send for swatches.  Thank you very much again.

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Fun with Fabric / Hiking trouser fabric
« on: July 29, 2021, 17:35:48 PM »
The pair of hiking trousers I made a dozen years ago has finally given up. I can't buy ready-to-wear trousers that fit, but I do have  patterns that, after much adjustment, do fit me.
I need breathable, windproof fabric such as commercial hiking trousers use.  I don't want softshell or waterproof. Years ago I bought it from Pennine Outdoor but neither they nor Point North seem to have anything suitable any more.  More recently I know someone who got fabric from Extremtextil, and they do have something that might do (ETAdry 130 (cotton)) , but they are not shipping to the UK anymore (thank you, Brexit!). 
Does anyone know of any other specialist suppliers or possible sources?   Or have any other suggestions of what I might do?

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In the wardrobe / Re: Pietra Pants and Shorts
« on: June 09, 2021, 10:35:30 AM »
I had exactly the same experience with a toile of the Pietra  trousers.  I liked the idea of the pockets, and the possibility of fitting alterations down the front, though I am not quite sure how they would be on someone like me with a "saddlebag" shape - very wide thighs.  But the back waist was hopeless, far too much fabric making bulky gathers.  I am still wondering about taking the back of my standard, and now well-fitting, trouser block (arrived at, over at least a decade, from multiple fitting toiles, and not-quite-fitting but wearable trousers!)  and putting the front of the Pietra onto it.  I know some people really like tghe Pietra, but I can't work out what shape they must be! I'll be interested to hear if anyone has found a solution.

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Patterns Discussion / Re: Teaching a non-sewer to sew
« on: March 12, 2020, 09:20:44 AM »
I recently found myself teaching a beginner to sew. She acquired a second hand Husqvarna Viking machine and we started with sewing lines on paper ( Melissa Fehr's sewing machine driving test from her Fehr Trade blog was helpful) and then on fabric. Then made a very simple waist apron and then a bag which involved curved seams and shaping with darts at the bottom (both free patterns off the internet). And the most recent thing I did with her was a little sundress for her five year old from a pattern in an old issue of Ottobre that I had. All this worked pretty well, but emphasized to me how much getting good results is basically a matter of practice and more practice, perhaps even more than  seeing how to do the things most of us take for granted. The sewing lessons have had to be interrupted for a bit, but I am now wondering what to do next. Possibly pyjamas with a Tshirt top for her little boy, or maybe a simple top for her. I will look at the patterns mentioned here.

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Fun with Fabric / Re: Sewing with Silk Fabric - tips please
« on: October 26, 2019, 14:48:24 PM »
If the fabric is really slithery there is a good deal to be said for laying the fabric out (single layer as flat as possible) on top of a sheet of tissue paper, pinning the two together, then laying the pattern on top and then cutting through  silk and paper together. If you leave the piece and the paper together until you are ready to sew  the piece into place it is altogether easier to handle. Indeed I have been known to sew through  silk and paper and then pull the paper away. Just a thought.

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Publications / Re: Two books on Activewear, a detailed review.
« on: March 17, 2019, 17:38:59 PM »
Thank you so much for a really detailed review. A quick glance at Melissa's book in a shop told me it wasn't for me - and her blog photos suggest she can be quite cavalier about fit. I admire her for lots of reasons, but not that!  The other book sounds really helpful.

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Publications / Re: Sew Your Own Activewear by
« on: March 16, 2018, 13:22:04 PM »
I am so pleased that other people have raised this issue. I am happy to believe that the book has good illustrations of the processes and alterations suggested. A lot of people seem to have been pleased with the individual down-loadable patterns she has produced and sold up to now. But I have seen too many of the garments Melissa has photographed looking ill-fitting and wrinkled. She recently showed a version of the jacket she had made that had really nice colours, and the fit wasn't too bad. But the finish at the top of the zip was really regrettable - the two sides of the collar did look different lengths. I am tempted to get the book - I could do with gear for my exercise class -  but I would so like to know whether those who have used it can get better results than those shown.

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Patterns Discussion / Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« on: September 18, 2017, 15:52:46 PM »
That's truly impressive. You really have got an excellent fit and the combination looks pretty, cool and comfortable.  And congratulations on the weight loss too. What a result!
Anne

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The Haberdashery / Scissor sharpening
« on: July 27, 2017, 12:14:08 PM »
I have two pairs of good scissors (one 6 inch and one shears) that really need sharpening. I have been looking at these people: http://www.scissor-sharpening.co.uk/hairdresser-scissor-sharpening-for-london who seem to do "tailors" scissors as well as hairdressers, and also these: http://www.prosharp.co.uk/services.asp?c=c2 who also say they do dressmakers scissors and even pinking shears. I have never thrown away my grandmother's pre-war pinking shears and might see if those could be rendered usable too. But I am a little nervous about this and wondered if anyone had experience of either of these companies or could recommend anyone else. Many thanks Anne

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In the wardrobe / Re: Riding Habit
« on: June 23, 2017, 14:08:09 PM »
Just coming in rather late to say that Thomas von Nordheim's book on Vintage Tailoring (actually I am not sure why he says "vintage" - perhaps just because he does not use fusible interfacings)  is very helpful indeed - and does, I think, include instructions for using a felt or melton for the undercollar so you could see how the techniques vary.  I daresay you have managed to source all the hair canvas etc you will need, but if not then Kenton Trimmings in London do have pretty much anything one might need. It does look as if it is coming along beautifully - hats off to you for making the attempt.

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In the wardrobe / Re: Surefit vs Lutterloh
« on: May 24, 2017, 16:17:35 PM »
On the issue of baggy back legs in trousers, can I recommend trying Ann Rowley's flat seat adjustment (google it). It made a very great deal of difference to me. I didn't think I could possibly have a flat seat, my hip measurement being so large in proportion to my other measurements. But I was desperate so I tried it and I do - it's a question of the distribution of the dimensions. It seems I am wide but flat. I definitely think it is worth trying. I do in fact also have to lower the back crotch curve and extend the back crotch point.  But it was the flat seat adjustment that made most difference.
Hope that might help
Anne

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Your Favourite Suppliers / Re: Recommended brick & mortar shops
« on: March 06, 2017, 17:17:20 PM »
Crescent Trading near Spitalfields (E1 -10 - 15 minutes walking from Liverpool St station) http://www.crescenttrading.com/ has lovely woolens and tailoring fabrics. I got really good wool and cashmere mix coating for DH's overcoat and a heavier wool melton for mine there at very reasonable prices. I did also get  nice poplin shirting.  I think it probably helps to go with some idea of what you might be looking for as its almost more of a warehouse than a shop.
Anne

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What lies beneath... / Re: Sources of bra making materials
« on: March 06, 2017, 16:56:05 PM »
I have very recently bought various bits of hardware - rings, sliders, closures - and elastic from Elise patterns http://elisepatterns.com/bra-making-supplies/  who had what I wanted when the Sewing Chest didn't. Reasonable prices and very prompt service.
I like the Orange Lingerie Boylston bra pattern - seems to work well for me. I've just used some pretty white dotted-swiss cotton lawn cut on the bias for cups and frame. Powernet for the wings.It worked very well.

Anne

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Patterns Discussion / Re: Indie Patterns
« on: March 06, 2017, 16:41:39 PM »
I had a really good experience with a Lekala pattern for a Man's overcoat. It seemed to be the only way to get a classic single-breasted overcoat that would fit my  slim slight DH - and it did. I also really like Sewaholic though I wonder what will happen now the original designer is no longer associated with them.
People speak well of Grainline http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/collections/pdf-downloads

Anne

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