The Sewing Place
The Emporia => The Show Must Go On => Topic started by: Poolygirl on October 08, 2018, 12:59:37 PM
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Hi all I’ve bought my stretch tutu pattern so excited to start. Hit a problem straight away, I can’t get a good stitch on my Lycra without it snapping, also need to top stitch it. The Lycra is going to be double thickness. Any tips gratefully received before I lose the will to live. Using a Bernina 240 machine :( :( :(
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Good quality polyester thread
Ball point or stretch needle
Reduce pressure on foot
Hold the fabric slightly stretched as you sew (taut sewing)
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what stitch are you using? You should use a zig zag on lycra. lengthen the stitch slightly and make it narrow. It should become a straight stitch when you stretch the fabric. I also use a stretch needle. Do you have an overlocker? You can do most of the construction quick and easy with an overlock machine and then use the bernina to top stitch (with the zig zag)
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Hi Janet, yes I have an overlockrr even though its 4 thread didnt give a wide enough seam to stitch on top. Ive used stretch stitch and a stretch needle, so far sew good. Now got nets too attach , thank you for advice most welcome.
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By "stretch stitch' do you mean a zig-zag or the type that's two forward-one back?
What sort of top stitching are you planning to do that can't be done over a 4 thread overlock?
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@BrendaP - Stretch stitch is a 3 step zig zag, with three stitches in each zag and zag, instead of just one. It's a curved shape on Bernina, like a wave (number 18 on the 230, which is actually called "lycra" in the manual), but some machines like Elna do it pointed. The shorter individual stitches means it pulls less and lies flatter on lycra than a regular zig zag.
I'd echo the stretch needles, not ballpoints - ballpoints are for jersey, not lycra, and I find that when sewing woven to lycra, it feeds better if you put the lycra on the bottom, so the feed dogs carry it along. I also have a teflon foot, but a lot of people like a walking foot.
For top stitching (eg over elastic) a plain zig zag is fine. Don't pull the fabric any more than you have to - pulling makes the stitches skip.