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The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Patterns Discussion => Topic started by: b15erk on July 01, 2019, 11:45:05 AM

Title: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 01, 2019, 11:45:05 AM
I actually managed to cut out a toile for this at the weekend, hopefully it will be wearable, if not, I've reduced the stash.

Glad I went down the toile route though, as I've hit a few snags.  Nothing major, but it would be nice to get them sorted before I do the 'proper' blouse.

Firstly, the sleeves are too big.  I did the sleeveless version, and there are separate pattern pieces for this, and the sleeves are still too big, so I need to sort this out before I do the next version.

Then the whole thing feels big.  This may sort itself out as I haven't washed the fabric, and I'm sure it's cotton.  But, I do need to do a size down before I do the next version.

Lastly the collar.  I usually do the collar and stand by wrapping the stand around the neck edge for a few inches.  I didn't do it this time, and I wish I had.  Butterick have you folding the stand up first.  Not really happy with this, I'll have to fiddle about with it to make it look OK.

Anyone have a failsafe method for attaching a collar and stand? 

Still, this looks as if I may be able to wear it when it's finished, so that's OK.

Forgot to add, the sleeve binding is very wide, need to make it much slimmer.

Jessie  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: maliw on July 01, 2019, 11:47:36 AM
Ooooh I like the detailing of the darts.
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: sewingj on July 01, 2019, 17:57:31 PM
I made this twice before I had learnt about making adjustments for fit. The long sleeved version was ok but the armholes on the sleeveless version were too big.
As I became more experienced I realized I should have made a small bust adjustment and couldn't work out how to do that without messing up the tucks so I haven't made it again.
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Samantha on July 01, 2019, 21:13:12 PM
Oooh nice starburst effect with the darts!
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: classical retro on July 02, 2019, 00:10:35 AM
There is a thread about this pattern in In the Wardrobe, Pattern Discussion Butterick 6028 started on 13 June. Holly Berry has done a bust adjustment too. If I knew how to link from the forum I would. Hope this helps.
CR :angel:
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Kwaaked on July 02, 2019, 07:28:09 AM
On collars, I pretty much change the order or the way patterns tell you to do it.  Both of these are close enough for explaining:

https://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html?m=1 
http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2011/02/mens-shirt-sew-along-13-new-collar-for.html

The first is women's wear which is sewn to the inside, menswear is usually top stitched to the outside and MPB does his as that.   Technically, they are both identical, just depends on what you want to do.  And while I do both, I also baste far more then most people, but
a) I can baste as fast as most people can pin
b) I can make sure it all works before sewing (and on men's high end shirts the stitch length is much, MUCH shorter, so removing stitches can and often will ruin the fabric)
c) I can assure pattern matching when applicable
and d) No fun surprises.

While this is certainly not a new method, or even one anyone can lay claim to, I either learned it from the Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences from the 1918 version or the 1924-ish set (I don't see it in the 1930s version and never worked through that set).  Or from the Bishop method circa 1950s.
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 02, 2019, 09:14:29 AM
Ladies, thank you all for your kind words.

@Kwaaked I've had a quick look at the links you posted and will go back later for a closer look, all good stuff, thank you!

@classical retro I will trot on over to In the Wardrobe for a looksee.  I really like this blouse, and would like to have it finished to a reasonable standard.

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: SkoutSews on July 02, 2019, 09:17:59 AM
Those are very helpful tips for collar construction, thank you.

@b15erk the shirt is looking good! I like the floral facings with the plain fabric and the plain fabric shows the tuck detailing nicely. But those armscyes do look huge! Good luck with scaling them down.

(I was searching for this thread to post a reply and was surprised to see that it's in the Darkside section!)
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 02, 2019, 09:32:38 AM
@SkoutSews , I know!  I don't know what happened there, but I don't know how to move it!

Looking at those arms, I can't leave them like that and wear it, so I may bit the bullet and take some excess out directly from the side seams.  I'll fold it out first to see how it looks, fortunately, I had intended it to be a toile, so I can always wear it in the garden!

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 02, 2019, 09:34:50 AM
@classical retro , I've been looking for In the Wardrobe, but only found the Laura Ashley blog.  Do you have any other details?  I'm getting a lot of results for bedroom furniture... :S :D ;)

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 02, 2019, 10:12:52 AM
@classical retro , so sorry.  Wrong end of stick.  What a numpty I am!

I've just re-read the discussion on our very own TSP!  Why didn't I go there first?  :S

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: sewingj on July 02, 2019, 11:32:58 AM
When I made the sleeveless version there was an awful lot of bra on show!  Today I`m wearing a different sleeveless top and realised the armholes are a perfect size - and that I really ought to make a record of this so I can refer to it when I make anything sleeveless in future!
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 02, 2019, 11:53:13 AM
@sewingj I watched one of Peggy Sagers Sihouette Pattern YouTube tutorials, and she recommends using a template for your different armhole sizes - in fact she sells plastic ones.  Pity I didn't remember this when I cut out this pattern!

I won't forget next time!

Jessie

Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Acorn on July 02, 2019, 15:57:34 PM
Hold onto your hats, we're on the move...
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 03, 2019, 09:45:17 AM
@Acorn , Thank You!

Went home last night, not really in the mood for sewing.  So, I decided these problems were not going to fix themselves, and I set to unpicking the seams.  Just got to work out now how much to take in, to raise the armhole a little.  It would have been easier if I hadn't trimmed the seam allowances down. I really do need to make a pattern alteration as the sleeveless blouse is very gapey.

I'm also considering replacing the collar stand as I'm not altogether happy with it, but it is after all a toile, so I may not bother.  I should have just used the method I normally use.

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Holly Berry on July 03, 2019, 10:49:03 AM
@b15erk I love the contrast on the blouse, great idea.

You could try using the bodice from the sleeved version and cut away for the desired sleeveless armhole. However it could be gaping if the correct chest size hasn’t been used and a FBA done.

The FBA (SMB) adjustment isn’t difficult. Ignore the pin tuck/detail markings, but make sure that the bust point is marked. I believe it is on the pattern, if not, the top pin tuck points to the bust point, so use this as your line 2 of the FBA. Proceed with the FBA as normal. You may have to lower the bust point if that’s what you normally have to do. The pin tucks will now have moved. Redraw the middle pintuck along the waist line and the top pintuck pointing toward the bust point. Use the spacing on the side seam of the original pintucks, but depending on the FBA they will radiate wider, towards the CF. Then place the second pintuck mid way between the top pintuck and the waist pintuck. The fourth pintuck is equidistant from the waist and the fifth equidistant from the fourth. The waist dart is the longest and the top and bottom dart the shortest.

Now pin the front and back at the shoulders and side seams, and pin in your pintucks. The size of the pintucks are the same for all sizes. You may find the back is too short now, don’t worry at this stage. Check to make sure the CF meets your CF. Mine was a little out, so I cut down from the neck towards the bust point and straightened the CF. Fill in the resulting V with paper. Then redraw the pintucks. I used the same neck points, but found I had to angle slightly towards the CF so that the extra fullness pointed towards the bust point.

To remedy the back, cut along the lengthen/shorten line and adjust until the side seams are level.

Hope that helps



Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 03, 2019, 10:56:06 AM
@Holly Berry , thank you so much for the information!  I think it's too late to save this blouse, but it was only meant to be a toile anyway.  I just didn't think to check the depth of the armhole... :S

I'm going to have to make pattern changes as I think the shoulder seems a bit wide as well.  I wouldn't be too bothered, but I would like to make a couple of these blouses.

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 10, 2019, 16:33:57 PM
Well, the second iteration of this blouse is underway after a couple of pattern adjustments.

But, all is not going well this afternoon.  It was OK, until I began to install the collar and stand, and then disaster.

Could I fit this?  No chance.  I've removed it at least six times, and I have no idea where I'm going wrong.  The first one went on no trouble, this one is awful, and I'm seriously considering cutting a new stand, although I can't see it making much difference.

It's done for now, but the topstitching is all over the place because of the varying finished widths of the stand.  I don't know whether it's stretched out, pulled out, or just not sewed very well. 

I've started a sleeve for now, but that isn't going well either...  :( :S ><

I think I may finish the blouse of and then see how bad the collar and stand looks.  Definitely losing the will to live today.

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Ros on July 10, 2019, 17:31:24 PM
Oh no! Hope it runs a bit more smoothly when you pick it up again. I found this pattern in the discount box in Abakhan Mcr half an hour ago. Now wondering if it was in there for a very good reason.
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Kwaaked on July 10, 2019, 18:42:36 PM
This is why I have 2 or 3 projects going at the same time, even when I am sewing for pay.

If one gives you hell, move to something easier.
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Nevis5 on July 10, 2019, 19:40:57 PM
Hmm, @b15erk  sounds like a trip to the Sin Bin for that blouse to me.    Maybe you'll feel more like tackling it in a day or so.  Good luck x
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 10, 2019, 21:20:24 PM
Totally frustrated tonight. I set the sleeves in beautifully,  but didn't try on, just went ahead and overlocked.

Sleeves were set in really nicely, but inside out!

I've just spent the last hour unpicking.  :S >:)

Tomorrow is another day - said Scarlet!

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 11, 2019, 09:06:28 AM
Unpicked and re-pinned last night, and re-sewed the sleeves this morning.

Unsure what to do about the collar and stand, it's not very nice, but I don't know if I can face unpicking it again.  :(  Maybe I'll leave it until the blouse is finished and then decide what to do.  I'm pretty sure I won't be happy with it.  :S

@Ros , it's not the pattern which is at fault, it's me!  The toile I made went together beautifully, but for some reason, this one refuses to play nicely.  The pattern is quite easy, I just seem to be making a meal of this one.

Jessie

Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Holly Berry on July 11, 2019, 10:06:17 AM
I always find top stitching where both sides need to be perfect tricky. When I made the blouse I top stitched the outside and hand stitched the inside.

If I make it again, which I probably will, because I love the pattern, I will turn under the seam on the inside of the stand and top stitch that and then attach the outside. Then I’ll handstitch the inside collar, but it will still look top stitched. Well that’s the theory.
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Sewbee on July 11, 2019, 10:18:59 AM
Love this blouse! The placement of the darts is lovely!
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: b15erk on July 12, 2019, 09:10:29 AM
Ok girls, I'm calling this one done.  The collar isn't 100%, but my hair is shoulder length so it won't be so noticeable.  I'll use it for work - in fact I'm wearing it now.

I love this pattern, and all the problems I have had are of my own making.  This one is cut as a size 18, but I think I could have easily gone down to a 16.  It all comes down to my not wanting things to be too small.  :(

The fabric, I think it's a poplin, isn't so soft as the cotton I used on the first one, and it does crease, but I love the colour. I would like one in a Chambray, but as I'm stashbusting, that may have to wait a while. I used snaps again for fastening, and I think they work well.

For now, I have a little list of projects that I want to make, so the next one will be some time coming!

Jessie
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Greybird on July 12, 2019, 09:20:10 AM
Looks fine to me!
Title: Re: Butterick B6026
Post by: Holly Berry on July 12, 2019, 09:28:56 AM
Looks good  :)