The Sewing Place
The Emporia => Sewing Professionally => Topic started by: Sandra on January 24, 2018, 10:27:54 AM
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A short while ago, Fran asked about letting the waist out on men's trousers. This is an easy alteration and I've had a pair in to alter so I thought I'd show you how easy it is.
(https://i.imgur.com/UG1pgBZl.jpg)
There's not a lot to let out on this pair, but I'll do as I've been asked.
Firstly you need to unpick the row of stitching which is holding the waistband facing down...roughly between where I've put the pins... and the little bar tacks which are holding the tops of the belt loops in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/mtFcgncl.jpg)
When you've opened up the waistband, you sometimes find that there isn't as much fabric to let out as you thought. It might have been cut away, but this pair is O.K.
(https://i.imgur.com/PLrXzFml.jpg)
I'm only going to get about an inch, but it might be enough to give a bit of ease.
The stitching has started to come undone slightly on this pair, where the waistband attaches to the facing, so I need to restitch it to make it secure, so I undo the back seam from the top of the waist down about 3 inches...and restitch.
(https://i.imgur.com/rlGGKcvl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YgnSsi3l.jpg)
Once that's done, it's time to pin the half an inch, on the double to gain the extra inch...I place pins horizontally at the point of the waistband seams to try to ensure I match the joins neatly.
(https://i.imgur.com/rTVjw5Ql.jpg)
Try to run a neat line down...if you run the angle off too quickly you'll end up with a funny shaped seat.....Machine from the top of the band, down, then I always go straight back up again. Hopefully this should give a strong seam which won't cause any embarrassing wardrobe fails when bending over. :|
Unpick the old seam and press.
(https://i.imgur.com/2uXR0O7l.jpg)
All you need to do then is to restitch your waistband facing back down and re-attach the belt loops.
(https://i.imgur.com/odwlRZIl.jpg)
All done.
Taking in the waist is just the same and just as easy a job, but obviously in reverse.
Depending on how much you've needed to take in, you might need to trim some of the excess fabric away. Also, remember when taking in, that back pockets will pull closer together and can sometimes look a bit odd.
Sandra.
xxx
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It can look odd, but not as odd as trousers gathered in to a belt. Letting out is one of the alterations I have been asked for most often. Yeara ago i used to do this for a gentleman who insisted he took a 32" waist trouser, but then brought them to be let out.
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What do you do if the waistband is one piece without the CB seam? :devil:
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I've never seen men's trousers done that way (I mean with a continuous waistband, not your excellent clear explanation, Sandra!), except for jeans and they don't have any spare in the back seam at all, so I'm afraid it's 'no can do', unless they want a 60s style godet in a very funny place. 0_0
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Great tutorial Sandra. You always give such clear instructions.
Thank you,
Jessie
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What do you do if the waistband is one piece without the CB seam? :devil:
Mostly, mens' trousers are very similar and have the centre back seam with a generous turning. Sometimes, if the fabric's in the trouser but not the waistband, then I've just added a bit of 'matching' fabric in the waistband and made a centre back seam.
If there's absolutely no turnings at all, and the customer is desperate ( really desperate), then I've put a 'V' piece in....that's not such a nice, easy job.
Sandra.
xxx
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I've often wondered why men's trousers have a letting out bit at the back but women's trousers don't.
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I've often wondered why men's trousers have a letting out bit at the back but women's trousers don't.
Because menswear is 'sensible' and women's is frivolous. Hence pockets, and shirts sized by COLLAR not chest or belly measurements lol
Men's tailoring disguises body faults, women's clothes insist we strap ourselves into 'shapewear' to look halfway decent, and tortures us with evil size numbers...
:S :fish: :S :fish:
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I've never noticed before, but I've just had a quick look through his wardrobe and most of them do have the back seam, apart from one pair of chinos.
:devil: Also the horrible cargo pants which he spends 99% of his life wearing have one piece waistbands, but I won't even attempt ironging those, let alone fiddling with the fit
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I've often wondered why men's trousers have a letting out bit at the back but women's trousers don't.
My neighbour who was German told me that most European women's trousers were made that way (this was 20 years ago) and I did have once have a pair like that.