The Sewing Place

The Emporia => A bit of a 'do' => Bridal => Topic started by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 02:30:57 AM

Title: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 02:30:57 AM
So, making a wedding dress [probably] for a friend's daughter.  She tried on quite a few yesterday, and the chosen style has a full A line skirt, with layers of blush pink tulle.  If she decides on a train, there are large lace motifs around the hem.
The bodice has a fairly deep plunge sweetheart neckline, overlaid with ornate lace, but is completely filled in with stretch illusion mesh quite high to the throat.  Small cap sleeves in the lace, and a largely sheer back in the illusion, with more large lace motifs arranged symmetrically to the million tiny buttons down CB.
The back 'bodice' is little more than a waistband as far as I can make out.
It was a posh shop with a very alert assistant, so I couldn't do my usual dissection and examination of everything.
PLEASE COMMENT AND ADVISE ON HOW YOU WOULD DO THIS
(https://i.imgur.com/fiUQHtA.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/o6kvYqB.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/PmgHZ5y.jpg)
My thoughts-

Please comment!  This was easier with my daughter's dress, as she didn't have the plunge neckline OR low back, and it was still a complicated construction [for me!]
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Manuela on February 04, 2018, 02:48:09 AM
@DementedFairy
Now, I avoid bridal stuff like hell, currently keeping a very low profile in order not to be roped in making the wedding dress for my stepdaughter's upcoming wedding. She doesn't know what she wants, lives on the other side of the world, and I have enough on my hand with my course...

So, here are my first thoughts:
- bodice foundation/corselette, boned, fasten back waist with lingerie hooks and eyes.  Attach illusion bodice sections to the inside of this, to hold it close to the torso- HOW?
=> I'd attach it by hand, before lining the dress. That way the cut edges are covered and you have enough possibilities to play around during fittings

- Base dress, princess seams in lightweight taffeta
=> sounds good, but methinks medium weight might be the better option. It has a lot to hold, hence a stronger fabric might be called for.

- blush tulle layers- no idea how to add so much volume while not having bulk at the waist?
=> cut it as a full circle and add width for gathering if still needed. The full circle should give you quite a bit of volume.

- Overlay lace appliqués to build bodice, cap sleeves, and that back design- adding button loops to reinforced edge of illusion mesh/lace sandwich??
=> most probably a lot of hand sewing of lace motifs onto mesh/tulle
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 02:54:40 AM
Excellent- I forgot to mention I'm suggesting they buy a fairly voluminous net petticoat online [possibly layer two] to save me having to worry about supporting the skirt.  The dress was very lightweight.
I've identified the maker and style [yay Google Fu] to get closer shots
Allure style 3117 (http://www.allurebridals.com/products/3117)
They say champagne, we saw blush pink.  Interesting!

I like the circle layer idea, and fully expect lots of hand sewing.  It's penance for past misdeeds
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Manuela on February 04, 2018, 03:23:21 AM
Hmm, looking at the pictures in the link, it looks like the whole mesh/appliqué layer is sewn on top of the taffeta bodice, not inserted into it. That might make things easier, especially of there is a bit of stretch inthe mesh.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 03:25:45 AM
Hard to say, the mesh could be inside, the appliqued lace covering the joins.  Not a clue.  I also don't see any seams at the shoulders...am I missing something or has it been draped over, possibly using the selvages for thee back opening?
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Manuela on February 04, 2018, 03:29:06 AM
That image shows a shoulder seam.

(http://www.allurebridals.com/assets/1550/3117H.jpg)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 03:32:01 AM
Hurrah!  I am a blind old bat, thanks for that!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: BrendaP on February 04, 2018, 10:23:26 AM
You are brave to take on a wedding dress. :*

Something like (https://www.jjshouse.co.uk/Women-Nylon-Tulle-Netting-Ankle-Length-2-Tiers-Petticoats-037005373-g5373?utm_term=5373&utm_size=OSFA&ggsub=pl&ggntk=g&ggcid=94721897796&ggkey=&ggpos=1o1&ggdev=c&ggdevm=&ggplm=&ggtgt=&gclid=CjwKCAiA-9rTBRBNEiwAt0Znw2B8QH7yNMT3t8yRz0qkMYDr6CDUtOgnIrjLhJ-C5bqIsXzj4fvEPRoC_WYQAvD_BwE) this should be enough to hold the skirt out.  If it's anything like the "fifties" petticoat I bought the top part will be stretchy elastane jersey and the rest will be organza with a softer layer underneath. 

My "fifties" slip (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CJLILOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) had two layers of organza but it was so full that I cut one layer away.

I think that the dance dress people will be able to give more suggestions, but it looks to me to be:
base layer of taffeta; bodice front and skimpy bodice back and skirt.
middle layer; flesh/blush/champagne net.
top layer; lace.

Any support will have to come from the taffeta layer, but if she wears a good long-line bra it will possibly be enough.  The net layer will need to be strong enough to take a zip (and hooks and eyes for security!) and the lace over the bodice will need to be chopped up and appliqued over the net to get it symetrical and to cover the CB seam.

Kate Middleton's wedding dress (http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/beauty/fashion/g4690/kate-middleton-wedding-dress/) comes to mind, that had lots of hand appliquéd lace motifs.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 10:57:12 AM
Yup indeed- I've asked them to get a petticoat asap, and it shouldn't be a major deal to bone the corselette/foundation, as it isn't an actual corset [no back] so the elasticity of the illusion net should do a lot of the work.  She's got a good figure so I'm not combating gravity too much!
I remember the hours spent working out how to do my daughter's dress 6 years ago, with no images to work from- at least some of the stages are familiar.
I actually love making wedding dresses, if I could guarantee sufficient orders, I'd do it full time- but I'd need a dozen orders like this every year to cover all eventualities...
The hand sewing is fine, it works as therapy after stressful working days, listening to my audiobooks.
I think I should set her the task of making a duct tape double to make life easier through the fitting stages [she doesn't have a car, and does have 2 small kids, so gadding about is a pain]
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: maliw on February 04, 2018, 10:57:59 AM
I will follow this with interest. Will your dress need a waist stay to help with the fit and help to hold everything in place? DD is getting married soon and I am making an underskirt for her dress, she has looked online but most are too short or too long. She bought her dress online - I was worried to say the least when she told me but for what she paid, the dress is amazing. It needs one or two tweeks - which one doesn't, thank you Mrs Mole
https://fitforaqueen.wordpress.com/2018/01/ for all your advice, so that is one of my 'to do' jobs.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 11:09:16 AM
I would have bought the slightly too short petticoat and added a single net flounce, but then, I'm lazy!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Ravingdoll on February 04, 2018, 11:28:27 AM
I don’t think anyone on here buys that you are lazy Fairy! I can’t work out whether you have a really good heart taking this on, or a glutton for punishment. Both I suspect  :angel: :devil:
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 11:44:11 AM
Lazy as hell- I won't do stuff that doesn't need doing, use every shortcut imaginable [trace a pattern?  Not in this lifetime] and cut corners that won't be seen.  Life really IS too short.
This is in the nature of balancing some karma from years back, when the family helped me out at an all-time low.  All it takes is my time, so I can manage that.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Tamnymore on February 04, 2018, 12:12:13 PM
No practical advice from me I'm afraid, as this is well beyond my capabilities but I think you deserve a medal, a halo or possibly both, @DementedFairy . But if there's some conservation of karma going on then so much the better.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Ravingdoll on February 04, 2018, 12:17:28 PM
Lazy as hell- I won't do stuff that doesn't need doing, use every shortcut imaginable [trace a pattern?  Not in this lifetime] and cut corners that won't be seen.
I’ve yet to trace a pattern, and it’s not something that features as a priority any time soon.  I’ve just made a skirt and I didn’t have enough fabric for the waistband, so I used something else - doesn’t matter as I always wear elasticated belts with skirts as I like the ‘cinch’. 
Anyway I am really looking forward to seeing this one being made so don’t go disappearing on us again will you?! 
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Fiona M on February 04, 2018, 12:28:30 PM
Not 'lazy', Fairy, but 'pragmatic'.  And you are always in your element when working on a 'big project'.  It's a lovely dress, and I will look forward to seeing your version in due course, it's bound to be gorgeous.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on February 04, 2018, 12:45:45 PM
That dress just looks so much better on your friend's daughter than on that skinny model that Manuela posted.
 
Good luck with this DF, I can't offer any help, but I am so in awe of you making something like this.  I shall be following with great interest.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Nevis5 on February 04, 2018, 12:55:57 PM
I'm so looking forward to seeing this progress too.  My DD refused to let me make her dress last year and in the event I agreed with her as she was the original Bridezilla  :(  but it's always been a dream of mine to make a wedding dress.

Good luck, DF!  We're all rooting for you!!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Tamnymore on February 04, 2018, 13:06:18 PM
I have traced patterns from Burda mags, and indeed once from Knipmode with Google translate on standby on Dutch to English. It's no more of a faff than sticking bits of paper together and cutting out a pdf patter (in fact probably a bit less effort). However I would never trace a purchased tissue pattern and I prefer these anyway. In my experience they are more robust than they appear and will survive many uses. I must have used my favourite trousers pattern at least a dozen times and it is still going strong. It's not usually difficult to grade up or down in size for a couple of sizes or so.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 14:28:25 PM
@Tamnymore  thinking back I did use some of those giant single sheets back in the 80s, but I see no reason to trace tissue patterns- as you say, they last for ages before crumbling

@Nevis5  yeah my daughter made every stage of the wedding dresss production into a nightmare, then was singularly ungrateful at the end of it all [I know for a fact that she never bothered to get the dress cleaned after the wedding, and as they have already separated, I would not be surprised to find she's binned it.  I don't want to know.

@Bodgeitandscarper I know!  She's got a great figure, especially for a girl who's had two kids and hasn't long finished feeding the littlest one!  She is very lacking in confidence though, so I was relieved that she went along with it all in the end, and didn't seem to stressed.  She tried on another dress before the finsl one that I actually liked even more, but maybe it was a little too 'old' or sophisticated for her taste.  Take a peek
(https://i.imgur.com/mxPACgM.jpg)  GORGEOUS
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Fiona M on February 04, 2018, 14:32:46 PM
I also like the one in the window, behind her.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 14:36:43 PM
she tried that on too [it's very like the one I made for DD] but she thought it was too figure hugging for her [it looked great!]  Like a lot of women, she's convinced her hips are too big.  Sigh.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Vegegrow on February 04, 2018, 14:59:17 PM
Fairy I have a Vogue 2803 in 6/8/10 in my pattern boxes ... uncut if you would like it
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 15:03:36 PM
ooooh hold onto it for now- I think we're more like a 16, but if all else fails, then grading up is better than nothing...
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: UttaRetch on February 04, 2018, 17:16:48 PM
DF, that second dress is so much better both in style and fit than the first, but the choice is the bride's.

I was looking at

(https://www.sewessential.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1800x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/v/2/v2788_front.jpg)

for it's neckline possibilities, but maybe it's too far from the reference dress.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 17:49:47 PM
I think the sleek one is bound to appeal to the older generations, it has a very elegant, classic look- which is not necessarily what a youngster wants.  The fit on the showroom ones isn't relevant anyway, the budget won't stretch to the £1300 price tag!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Madame Cholet on February 04, 2018, 17:59:00 PM
£1300 !
During the 90s I worked for a while in a bridal shop, where I did the alterations and also sewed one-offs.
I don't know what the situation is like nowadays as times have changed, but the mark up on the dresses they supplied then was hefty.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 04, 2018, 18:04:16 PM
Well, this certainly isn't silk, I can tell you that, but the lace was very very nice and good quality.  The dresses weren't shoddily made either, but it's  a lot of money for a few hours' wear!
Thing is, in the outlet shop [much more sensible prices] the dresses were battered, marked and being dragged round the floor by all and sundry- I was quite horrified by the casual way they were handled and tossed about.  Then again, it was a tatty little shop with scruffy changing area and a rather manky vibe! 
In the boutique, we had a dedicated assistant, comfy sofas, and a gorgeous choice of fab dresses...you get what you pay for, even if it isn't the dresses themselves!
Most brides' expectations are rather inflated these days, the era of going to the register office/church and then to the pub or your nan's front room have gone for good.
Ah well.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: maliw on February 04, 2018, 19:09:20 PM
I remember well the trials and tribulations involved with the dress you made for your DD and everything else for the day. Sad that your daughter treated things the way she did after all your hard work. I hope that all the work you put into this dress will be appreciated - I'm sure it will.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Greybird on February 04, 2018, 22:44:29 PM
I am in awe DF. I don't think my capabilities would stretch to take on that task. Back in 2000 though, I did make Butterick 5542 for my daughter-in-law as a wedding dress:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=butterick+5542&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwipr872p43ZAhVKa1AKHTrTCVIQsAQIMA&biw=996&bih=610

I used silk dupion, which was lovely, but I was reduced to tears by the making of it. In those days I didn't realise that pattern instructions could be wrong(!) and I did the crossover back pieces at least a dozen times before I got it right. When it was finished I was so pleased and it looked great. That was 3 weeks before the wedding. I didn't see her again until the day before. She had, meanwhile, been on a diet and had lost nearly 2 sizes. The dress gaped horribly but there was nothing I could do except avoid admitting that it was me who made the dress!

My apologies for the long link thing. I haven't figured out how you get it to say here so that you can click on it.

..
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: CarolC on February 04, 2018, 23:11:28 PM
What a pretty dress! And how brave you are to take it on!

I made something sort of similar recently for dance with a mesh top and lined lower part, though mine wasn’t as complex.

I treated the whole, including the mesh part, as a single pattern based on a basic jewel neck, then added the lower solid part neckline and back lines as style lines. If you use stretch mesh, you will need to take it in a bit to fit, but non stretch illusion might give more support. If you use stretch, you could add nude elastic straps to help support the dress.

To attach the mesh, stitch to the white as with any panelled pattern, then attach the lining to the joined raw edges to enclose them and flip it down.

The lace is hand stitched on in chunks (Kate M’s dress was done like that). Again non stretch base might be easier to handle as the stretch mesh will need to be stretched to the correct shape as the lace is put on.
 :flower:
 
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 05, 2018, 08:47:07 AM
FAbulous advice folks, keep it coming.  I like to absorb all the slight variations and smoosh them into one!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: CarolC on February 05, 2018, 14:12:22 PM
Hello again! One more thought - for the skirt, it looks like double or triple circles, perhaps diminishing in fullness as the layers go inwards. To cut the double or triple circles, you divide the waist by however many (2, 3, whatever), then make make up the appropriate number of pieces.

So for a double circle, divide the waist by 2 and use that measurement as the inner circumference of the circle pieces. Depending on the width of the fabric, cut 4 half circle pieces or 8  quarter circles to make up the full waist circumference. For a triple circle, divide waist by 3 and cut 6 or 12 pieces; for 1.5 circles, divide waist by 1.5 and cut 3 or 6. Hope that makes sense!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: BrendaP on February 05, 2018, 17:42:12 PM
None of the skirts in the images posted look to me to be even full circle; which is maybe just as well as multiple circles in a full length skirt would take acres of fabric.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 05, 2018, 19:29:17 PM
It's very full and at least 2-3 layers, but there was no bulk or visible seam at waist or hips, which is what I'm trying to work out.  A lot can be covered with the lace bodice, but the key to working the yardage out will be those skirt pieces
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Vegegrow on February 05, 2018, 20:36:59 PM
the veiling we used to sell was 300cm wide... you need to know your brides waist to floor measurement including shoes ..
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Manuela on February 06, 2018, 12:29:58 PM
Here is a very useful circle skirt calculator that'll do all the maths for you:
Circle Skirt Calculator (https://www.easycalculation.com/other/circle-skirt-calculator.php)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 06, 2018, 17:27:22 PM
No fears about calculations, don't forget I'm a maths lecturer!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Marniesews on February 14, 2018, 00:16:29 AM
Sorry I'm late to the party, not sure if it's too late. I was going to suggest multiple circles for the underskirts but CaroleC has given a good description. It does take lots of fabric but 3m wide tulle/soft dress net (https://www.trim-it-uk.com/direct/Soft-Net---Dreamweave.html) 300cm tulle isn't very expensive and has a lovely bounce. I also saw the rtw petticoats on the first page and that might well do with the addition of crin for extra support. You can attach it with little tucks to make it kick out more - the underskirt on its own may will need a bit more oomph.

If I'm not too late, @maliw you could shortcut with a bought underskirt and either add the crin to make it long enough or buy a longer one and hem and add crin at the same time to make it the right length too. This one is millinery crin (https://www.parkinfabrics.co.uk/millinery/trimmings/crin/plain-crin.html) but is fine enough for underskirts and a fraction of the price of dance crin (http://www.dsi-london.com/dance-fabrics/dance-dress-trimmimgs/soft-boning.html) even if you buy a full 30m roll.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: maliw on February 14, 2018, 12:04:58 PM


If I'm not too late, @maliw you could shortcut with a bought underskirt and either add the crin to make it long enough or buy a longer one and hem and add crin at the same time to make it the right length too. This one is millinery crin (https://www.parkinfabrics.co.uk/millinery/trimmings/crin/plain-crin.html) but is fine enough for underskirts and a fraction of the price of dance crin (http://www.dsi-london.com/dance-fabrics/dance-dress-trimmimgs/soft-boning.html) even if you buy a full 30m roll.
Thanks for that Marnie, I haven't started yet so something to consider.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on February 25, 2018, 14:06:56 PM
We went shopping for the main fabrics yesterday, including curtain lining for the toile, and had a good look at lace patterns.  At least they now know how crucial it is to find the RIGHT lace, and also saw how pricey it can be.
We got a poly shantung in ivory for the dress, with a good weight anti-static lining.
I've just cut out the toile- to my delight, she is very close to a straight up size 18 on this rather old pattern [more like a 16 irl]
She brought me her attempt at a duct tape dummy too- it's  a bit wonky and squishy, but will be a help in keeping the dress nicely shaped and avoid the illusion part stretching out [when we get to it]
Hoping to get the toile fitting done within the fortnight.  Watch this space!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on March 17, 2018, 17:02:44 PM
First toile fitting today, and all went swimmingly.  I cut out the underbodice in the curtain lining, and used some of my quality interfacing on it, then just used the nice quality plastic boning that comes in its own casing, and put them on the sides and bust seams in preparation.  To fasten it I used some bra/corset hook and eye tape.
I'd pencilled on where I thought the sweetheart shaping should go, and cut it away a bit at a time until she was happy...which was exactly on my pencil lines lol
Very minor tweaks to get it sitting nice and snug, and checking how it looked with the bra cups from eBay, and then a quick whizz on the machine to make those adjustments.  The dress itself was just as easy to fit.  She just needed a little more ease over the hips, so I tweaked those seams too.
I did a very rough mock up of the illusion mesh bodice section using  a piece of scrap crystal organza, and that was fine too.  I just wanted to be able to use it to estimate how much mesh to order, as it seems quite pricey.
Now I need to do some quick calcs to estimate how much yardage we need for the tulle overlayers, then they can get them ordered while I cut out and sew the main dress and lining.
We may need to visit Nottingham to get the lace though- might be a cool day out.  Last time I did that ws for my daughter's wedding dress...6 years ago now!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on March 17, 2018, 17:04:06 PM
Forgot to mention- I opened up the wedding skirt toile from last years sewing adventure, and pinned it onto the back to use as a rough guide to train length [the pattern as it stands has a tiny train, she wants a bit more]
This method worked well, so now I know what I'm working with!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on April 01, 2018, 10:03:52 AM
Lots has happened since the toile fitting.  I dismembered it, to use as the underlining, pinned it straight onto the fashion fabric, and basted along all the stitching lines, then rough cut with generous seam allowances [in case of further alterations nearer the time]
I took my time stitching it all together, and then pressed the hell out of each seam, clipped, and catch-stitched all the seam allowances down nice and flat.  This is a tedious task, but really helps. 
By the time I'd got front and back assembled, I could see that the seams on the back particularly are going to stretch like crazy [none are on grain] so I need to contrive some reinforcement.  I'll probably use selvage strips from main fabric and lining scraps and sew them along each seam.  I had to do this on the wife's wedding dress to support the beading weight.  This fabric is doing it on its own!  I'm undecided at this point whether to do that by hand or just machine it on, as the tulle layers will hide any stitching lines anyway.
At this stage I also realised that quite a lot of the pencil markings from the fitting were showing through BOTH layers [unexpected], so I had to go at it with stain remover and a small scrubbing brush.  There was also an unexplained mark on the underlining, and a bloodstain from jooking myself on some pins.  All cleared up fine.
Then the tulle. :S
I spent some time [like, weeks] planning this, and when the tulle finally arrived this week, I was VERY daunted by how fine and soft it is.  Just what was needed of course, but floatier than anything I've ever worked with.  :S
I took a deep breath yesterday, and got it  all spread out on the living room floor, after removing several coffee tables, piles of stuff, and cats.
7m of 3m-wide fabric take SPACE.  I pinned the raw edges together [not easy as the stuff just spits pins back out again]and crawled around, tugging and smoothing and swearing [and sweating- I had to strip down to my undies in the end, there's an image you didn't want!]
(https://i.imgur.com/qbOT2Dy.jpg)
Some time later, I managed to pinpoint the place to remove the waist circles [9.5" diameter] from the miles of fabric, got it folded appropriately, and did the deed.  I'd long since decided not to even attempt to shape the egg shape I actually need, but to do that when the dress is on and hemmed, as it will need trimming again anyway.
(https://i.imgur.com/9c1AxcX.jpg)
I then took it through to the sewing room and dropped it over the assembled dress bodice, pinning it to the waistline. 
And then realised that I REALLY SHOULD have marked the CF and CB before picking it off the floor.
BUM!
I shall contrive.
I'll faff with it  a bit then attach some hanging loops and get it stashed away.  There should be another fitting next week, when I can drape the illusion mesh bodice and talk about the back fastening and lace.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: sewingj on April 01, 2018, 10:08:01 AM
I`m having a panic attack just reading this!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: BrendaP on April 01, 2018, 10:16:18 AM
Oooooo! you are brave.  Getting that lot laid out on the floor looks to be even worse than layering up a large quilt.

For holding things in  place when the pins just fall out have you tried using these (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wonderful-Sewing-Clips-Strong-Crafts/dp/B00SYBXX0Q/ref=sr_1_7?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1522574003&sr=1-7&keywords=quilt+clips)?
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on April 01, 2018, 10:24:58 AM
Oooooo! you are brave.  Getting that lot laid out on the floor looks to be even worse than layering up a large quilt.

For holding things in  place when the pins just fall out have you tried using these (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wonderful-Sewing-Clips-Strong-Crafts/dp/B00SYBXX0Q/ref=sr_1_7?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1522574003&sr=1-7&keywords=quilt+clips)?

I bought a bag recently...and totally forgot about them until I'd finished.  Double duh. >:)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Ploshkin on April 01, 2018, 10:30:54 AM
If I'd had to do all that I think is would be tear stained as well.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: SkoutSews on April 01, 2018, 11:19:39 AM
Blimey, Fairy, that's amazing! You have such patience to deal with that. Looking forward to seeing the end result.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: sewingj on April 01, 2018, 11:24:46 AM
Just wondering if Meghan Markle`s dressmaker has been scrabbling about on the floor in her underwear
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: UttaRetch on April 01, 2018, 15:18:41 PM
@DementedFairy: you certainly need to keep the cats out of the way of all that netting. :devil:
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on April 01, 2018, 15:24:24 PM
BAck in the 80s/90s when I made a gazillion wedding and bridesmaid dresses, I also had to make a bazillion net petticoats.  One of my cats got very ingenious at getting at them, and he always waited until they were done, and hung up.  In the night, he'd somehow manage to get them down and EAT CHUNKS of them, then he'd vomit it all back up in nasty frothy netty heaps round the room.
Vile creature.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Sandra on April 01, 2018, 15:30:26 PM
Ewww.... :x  :meow:

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: datcat23 on April 02, 2018, 09:12:38 AM
Many years ago, I was involved with a charity that took donated wedding gowns, and made them into burial gowns for pre-term babies.    Part of the process, was deconstructing the gowns, including the net petticoats.

As you can see, its not just cats that like net ..... Little madam went slightly nuts when I pulled this out.

(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/14209968448_e3deb66398.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nDFNy1)I love tulle (https://flic.kr/p/nDFNy1) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on April 03, 2018, 17:18:45 PM
I've been tulle-wrangling again!  The bride will be coming for the next fitting at the weekend, so I wanted to get it to a reasonably 'together' state.  The boned inner bodice has had its lower edge bound, and is machine basted to the fashion fabric.  The top edge of the dress had stretched quite a bit, despite stay-stitching, just from handling, so it had to be eased back into shape.  I think the bust pads and lace will disguise any irregularities though!
I basted on the tulle to the waistline...and found that it was too small [I cut out a smaller circle than needed on purpose to allow for stretch or mistakes!  I raised it all up a bit, and re-basted.
The missus volunteered to stand on a stool 'wearing' the dress so that I could roughly chop away the excess tulle, and I took the opportunity to pin-baste the illusion net into place for the upper bodice.  It's looking OK I think, the tulle looks a lot less pink when it's properly spread out around the dress!
Now I'm going to attach some inner hanging ribbons so that I can stuff the whole caboodle into the hanging bag to keep it clean, then I can get back to my OWN sewing, much more fun!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on April 10, 2018, 18:34:04 PM
2nd fitting was fine- nothing needed altering and we got the hem pinned and the tulle further trimmed to more or les match. 
WOT I LERNDED- I hate tulle.  It was  a bitch to trim even roughly, and just kept getting tattier, so I hacked it away, resolving to lay it on the table to trim again later.
I pithered about with the illusion mesh to get it more or less right, then extracted bride from dress, and sat with her to choose lace/appliques/buttons etc for finishing
Decisions duly made [or at least narrowed down] I sent her off to debate which to order, guided by her mum's budget.
I will pick up buttons at the market next week and order looping to suit.
Yesterday I levelled the tulle [horrible job].  Well actually I didn't even bother trying to actually level it, I just trimmed away everywhere it was raggedy and that will have to suffice.  If it ends up scrappy they'll have to order another layer's worth [I said 2 layers was minimum, three would def be better]

She's opted for black lace overlays, and chose a particularly dramatic applique, very large, which will hopefully be chop-uppable to do the job properly.  Fingers crossed that sheer nerve and some fray check will get me by!

Apparently the lace should arrive in a week or so, which should keep me on schedule for finising it by the end of MAy and the start of exam marking season.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on May 20, 2018, 15:10:13 PM
Last but one fitting.
Third layer of tulle attached, teensy buttons and button loops attached [all done yesterday and this morning lol]

Black guipure trim attached round the neckline yesterday- BITCH of a job.  It's nice enough lace but was cheap...and this showed as I started attaching it by hand...the corded bits just kept coming off, and instead of being nice long pieces were all short lengths so I was catching loose ends down all over the place.

The black lace appliques are nicer, no cording, but there are EIGHT, they are LARGE, and need to be trimmed, shaped and cut to work well.  They are currently just pinned and rough basted, which was the point of today's 'fitting' so we could check on placement. 

Happily, bride and MOB had no disagreement with my suggestions, so we are all set.

Two weeks to final 'fit' and collection, when we will sort out bustle point placement and trim off any dangling tulle that shows after all the appliques are attached.

Yay!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on May 22, 2018, 17:19:22 PM
Here's a sneak pic [the lace is only pinned on at the mo]
(https://i.imgur.com/oojvWES.jpg)
And playing with bustling points:
(https://i.imgur.com/bOMiDM6.jpg)
THe bride is chuffed so all is good
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: UttaRetch on May 22, 2018, 17:29:43 PM
That is looking spectacular, @DementedFairy.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Sewingsue on May 22, 2018, 17:30:07 PM
Gorgeous and a heck of a lot of work.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Tamnymore on May 22, 2018, 17:46:05 PM
That's amazing @DementedFairy
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on May 22, 2018, 19:54:55 PM
That's super, very different with the black lace  0_0
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Sewingforfun on May 22, 2018, 22:49:38 PM
WoW! That is really stunning. Can't wait to see the front, too.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on June 02, 2018, 21:42:37 PM
Well I put off sewing the lace on for as long as possible, but it WAS going to be collected tomorrow [now delayed] so eventually I had to crack on
Getting all the lace sewn on around the neckline/shoulders took hours.  And as I sewed the last bit on one shoulder strap, I found that the ruddy illusion mesh had crumpled out of shape and half of it had to be very carefully unpicked and re positioned.  Gah.  I finished that off the next day, with much swearing and sore fingers
The next day [I procrastinate VERY well when I want to] I sewed the lace onto the bodice front and back, including doing a transition from 'through all layers' to 'through the tulle layers only'.  Gah
The NEXT day [today] I slogged on, and got the three large motifs positioned and attached to the train.  To give you an idea, I thread 10 needles at a time, and cut and wax about 30 threads at a time.  Each motif used about 15 needles' worth of thread.  Gah.  Ick.  Aargh.
My fingers are now too sore to sew any more today, so I will plod on and hopefully finish the lace stitching tomorrow- 2 large motifs on the bum, and a few partial ones around the waist/hips to hide the dodgy tulle layering!
The 'final' part will be inserting the lining, a simple job as it's already assembled, then it will be ready for the final visit from the bride, to trim any errant tulle, and fix the bustle points

Whose bloody idea was this? :S
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: BrendaP on June 02, 2018, 21:53:37 PM
It's going to look fantastic.   0_0
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on June 16, 2018, 14:39:34 PM
Done!  Gone, out of the house, blah blah.  She's lost weight after  about of food poisoning and they were all twittering about taking it in.  I pointed out that would mean taking half the lace off again to do it properly, AND that she'll no doubt put at least some of the weight back on in a month and a half...so we left it.  I had to faff for a while trimming off even more tulle [horrible stuff- I got the length more or less right, and told them that if they want perfection they can lay it out on a table and play with nail scissors.  It looks great on her [I think] and they all did the requisite cooing
I sorted the bustle points eventually- two ribbon ties inside, and one loop and button at CB seemed to do the trick...just as well after about a dozen safety pins buckled under the weight!
Teaser pics?  Oh alright then.  Full blog posts after the do of course, which is end of July
(https://i.imgur.com/ySRgjDh.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/MzxEfei.jpg)
And just so you can appreciate te amount of handstitching those lace appliques took, here's the inside before the lining went in!
(https://i.imgur.com/AjrLqBj.jpg)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Sandra on June 16, 2018, 14:58:58 PM
Beautiful work.  <3
I can imagine your heart sinking at the mention of it being taken in  :o  UGH!
Yes. She's sure to put some of the weight back on.

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: UttaRetch on June 16, 2018, 15:59:35 PM
Great work @DementedFairy, BUT I would say no to the next person.  Look forward to seeing more of the dress.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Sewingsue on June 16, 2018, 16:29:20 PM
I know they paid for the fabric etc, but they would have a shock if they knew the cost of the hours you put in.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: maliw on June 16, 2018, 17:04:46 PM
A big 'well done' DF not just for all your hard work and expertise but for keeping your cool. I dread to think what the dress would have cost if the bride had had to go and buy it, but there again she couldn't because its a one off.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on June 16, 2018, 18:19:35 PM
That looks absolutely amazing, you are very clever  0_0  Look forward to seeing more pics.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Ploshkin on June 16, 2018, 18:27:05 PM
Teaser pics indeed. Looking forward to seeing it properly.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Tamnymore on June 16, 2018, 18:36:27 PM
Fantastic DF and doesn't look too big at all.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on June 16, 2018, 18:48:16 PM
Thanks guys- it's  a nice blend of her original inspiration pics and the very pricey one we saw in the shop [which she would still have had to pay to be altered to fit of course]

The most that could be pinched out of the waist [if I was prepared to do it, hell no] would be an inch.  I told her that once the lace is on, it's done...iof they want a different answer they're welcome to take it elsewhere to be altered.  I'm done!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Tamnymore on June 16, 2018, 19:32:41 PM
A few pie suppers between now and the wedding and that spare inch will soon disappear!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 05:00:06 AM
The wedding took place on Saturday, and it looks like it went swimmingly.  Both bride and groom have thanked me sweetly for the dress, and she looked lovely.  We didn't go to the evening do [although invited] as I am partway through coming off my beta blocker prescription and feel headachey and a bit swimmy round the eyes as I adjust. 
However, I now get to blog the entire journey, and share all the pics.  Here's post #1 on the blog (https://thedementedfairy.wordpress.com/2018/07/29/ele-mentary-wedding-dress/)

Enjoy!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Sewingsue on July 30, 2018, 07:12:04 AM
DF, no wish to interfere and I know you wouldn't do anything unwise, but you are coming off your meds with the doctor's approval and supervision aren't you?
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Renegade Sewist on July 30, 2018, 07:17:14 AM
Just lovely.  :toast:
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 07:18:06 AM
DF, no wish to interfere and I know you wouldn't do anything unwise, but you are coming off your meds with the doctor's approval and supervision aren't you?
absolutely.  I'd balanced myself down to one a day which seemed to keep the horrible retinal migraines at bay, and now I'm looking forward to my new job, so the horrors of my ex boss are [hopefully] behind me, we agreed I should try giving it the push altogether.  I have no actual blood pressure issues, it was just that I was going blind every damn day...terrifying.
According to my doc daughter, the dose I was on  was very low in any case.  I don't like the horripilations and hallucinations I get with the damn stuff though!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Iminei on July 30, 2018, 07:44:41 AM
Looking forward to part 2, very interesting and a stunning outcome x
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Ravingdoll on July 30, 2018, 08:02:16 AM
Definitely can’t wait to see the finished dress. You are a clever Fairy

Are you on Propranolol? I took them for a few years - not for migraines, another reason - and I had a bit of a rough ride coming off them but it was worth it just to stop having such vivid dreams.  I used to wake up exhausted! 
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 08:18:21 AM
Definitely can’t wait to see the finished dress. You are a clever Fairy

Are you on Propranolol? I took them for a few years - not for migraines, another reason - and I had a bit of a rough ride coming off them but it was worth it just to stop having such vivid dreams.  I used to wake up exhausted!
Yep they're the buggers.  Vital to stop the horrible loss of central vision that was hitting most days, but oh boy the broken sleep and horrible hallucinations!  Spiders on my face every damned night, and me at the bottom of the bed flailing and screeching.  Didn't do either of us any good.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 08:20:51 AM
Part 2, toile fitting and some decisions to make.  On the blog here. (https://thedementedfairy.wordpress.com/2018/07/30/ele-vating-wedding-dress-2/)
Teaser?
(https://i.imgur.com/48tvBlL.jpg)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: wrenkins on July 30, 2018, 09:14:43 AM
I'm not a very girly girl but I used to model wedding dresses for brochures and promotional material. Now I remember why I loved it so much. My particular favourite was a shell pink with 1 000 000 tiny buttons down the back.  :loveit:
Ah those were the days....
Fab dress DF. Hurry up with the next bit please.  :)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: maliw on July 30, 2018, 10:51:53 AM
Just been reading your blog and catching up and the next part is------------.
Seriously, fantastic work DF.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 12:48:52 PM
Here's blog post #3 (https://thedementedfairy.wordpress.com/2018/07/30/el-aboration-wedding-dress-3/) which takes us into April
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 13:15:20 PM
As you command milady!  I'm mostly wrangling the various pics into some sort of order [IMGUR is a bit random when you upload to an existing album]
I'm also confusing myself with the order things were done, so I've had to keep referring to the timeline lol
Old age

Here's blog post #4, preparing for the final slog (https://thedementedfairy.wordpress.com/2018/07/30/emb-el-ishment-wedding-dress-4/)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 14:02:21 PM
And the penultimate post, #5, all the final sewing and final fitting/collection.  JUst the wedding itself to go

Last but one post you'll be glad to know! (https://thedementedfairy.wordpress.com/2018/07/30/ele-gant-wedding-dress-5/)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 14:31:35 PM
Grand finale, photos snagged from FB from the wedding itself, with Ele's permission of course.  Final blog post #6 (https://thedementedfairy.wordpress.com/2018/07/30/ele-fun-wedding-dress-6/)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: annieg on July 30, 2018, 14:35:42 PM
I echo that "WOW".  The dress was beautifullllllllllll
 :D
Annieg
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 14:40:32 PM
I'm really pleased I have pics of it all, as I've made many dresses over the years that only ever had a single snap, taken on a dress form, and no further record.  Such a shame.  Hurrah for blogging, Facebook, and IMGUR!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Sandra on July 30, 2018, 14:49:58 PM
That's beautiful.  <3
I love to see weddings where people dare to do something a bit different.

So much work you put into it...and all that hand sewing  :S

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 14:51:42 PM
But it's the hand sewing that's fun [this was a lot though- second only to DD's lace COVERED wedding dress, and the wife's bead embroidery.]
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: mudcat on July 30, 2018, 15:03:56 PM
The dress turned out lovely DF and so unique with the black lace.  I noticed that the dresses she tried on all seemed to fit perfectly.  Lucky her.  I have to admit, the grooms attire was a bit jarring. Not quite what I was expecting.    0_0

 :toast:
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Sewingsue on July 30, 2018, 15:04:27 PM
Absolutely beautiful dress DF. Hand sewing is fun? really??

I am definitely a conventional old bat - the bride was lovely - the groom????
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on July 30, 2018, 15:11:38 PM
Absolutely beautiful dress DF. Hand sewing is fun? really??

I am definitely a conventional old bat - the bride was lovely - the groom????

Lol yes, well.  The MOB wasn't wildly impressed with his plans to dress in skateboarding/surfer gear either...and he could at least have put on some smart jeans, but hey ho, yoof of today lol
Last year's groom also fought against 'dressing up' but at least he invested in a Westwood shirt and some posh jeans for the actual ceremony, and went surfer later in the day.

Makes me feel old lol
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: UttaRetch on July 30, 2018, 19:20:52 PM
Magical, missus.  I always thought you were a witch. ;)
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: maliw on July 30, 2018, 20:04:45 PM
 A-ma-zing, just finished reading your blog. The dress is gorgeous and I really like the colours. Have your hands recovered? I quite enjoy hand sewing but that must have taken hours. I hope you get a bit of a rest before the next one.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Catllar on July 30, 2018, 23:24:51 PM
Beautiful work DF. Shame it was let down by the scruff bag groom - has he no respect for his beautiful wife??
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: BrendaP on July 31, 2018, 23:17:07 PM
The dress is fantastic; you are braver than me to take on someone else's wedding dress. 

The bride looked lovely, and very happy.  Maybe she was expecting the groom to be dressed rather oddly.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Surest1tch on August 01, 2018, 00:02:00 AM
DF that dress is totally awesome. I hope you charged appropriately although somehow I doubt you did.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: fajita on August 01, 2018, 10:23:40 AM
@DementedFairy   I'm so impressed. You've done a lovely job, she looks stunning.

My daughter (you met her once in Birminham) is getting married next year .......

Haha, got ya!

Actually she is getting married, but I think I'll leave the wedding sewing to the experts.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: Samantha on August 01, 2018, 10:45:20 AM
Amazing. I am in awe of your skills. Really interesting to read your progess to on your blog too.
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: DementedFairy on August 01, 2018, 13:07:00 PM
DF that dress is totally awesome. I hope you charged appropriately although somehow I doubt you did.

It was a karma-balancing freebie actually.  Not something I'd do for just anyone!

@BrendaP Re the groom- yes, she was well aware of what he planned to wear, the idea was breaking convention and everyone to wear what they wanted.  I'm old fashioned enough to still think he could have stepped up a bit just for the ceremony! lol

@Fajita , we're all experts, go on, it's fun!
Title: Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
Post by: wrenkins on August 01, 2018, 13:35:56 PM
My cousin had an unconventional wedding about 25 years ago before it was 'a thing'. The bride's brother was her bridesmaid and they all left in a red and white Citroen Dolly but at least the groom's jeans were full length.  0_0