The Sewing Place
The Emporia => A bit of a 'do' => Topic started by: Fabric Lover on June 08, 2018, 21:58:28 PM
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I have made Butterick 6094 (http://https://www.sewdirect.com/cgi-bin/sh000003.pl?WD=butterick%206094&PN=Butterick%2d6094%2dVINT6094%2ehtml#SID=2289) to go to my niece’s wedding this month. It’s been a bit of an ordeal but I’m nearly there! Just the hem to do.
That’s not easy though. As it’s a very full skirt, how do I make sure the hem doesn’t end up being a wavy mess?
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I’m guessing I need to stabilise in some way but if I put fusible interfacing, will it stick out and be stiff? Or hand sewing but I’d be here till the day of the wedding I think
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What fabric is it? That can make a difference as to whethr or not you need to stabilise, but mostly I don't on the hems of full skirts.
Hang it for a day or so (on the dressform) to allow it to drop if it wants to, and then measure. I do it from the waist seam down and stick pins parallel to the ground every couple of inches. It takes a while to do, but if the pins are close enough together it gives you the cutting line. The more curved the hem the smaller the turning should be. A full circle skirt only needs about 1cm at most; any more and it will end up with pleats rather than being eased in.
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Thanks for your reply Brenda. The fabric of the skirt is a satin type. I have had it on the dressform for about 2 or 3 days for exactly that reason, but also for me to build up courage to tackle the hem! A good idea to measure from the waist down - I hadn’t thought of that!
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Take your time over it and allow the tape measure to hang in order to get eth true vertical each time.
The lengthways straight grain should be the direction which drops least. Start with that so that you know the maximum length .
Once it's cut, overlock or machine overcast all the way around and then turn the hem up. I would then probably blind hem by machine with most of the stitching going into the overlocking. If you think that it needs a tiny bit of extra weight at the bottom cut 1/2 inch strips of a knit/stretch stabiliser and fuse that to the cut edge before overlocking.
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If that's a style you like to wear/make a lot it may be worth investing in one of these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prym-Plastic-Skirt-Hem-Marker-With-Base-each-611759/372260642556?epid=1350806556&hash=item56ac769efc:g:qTsAAOSwrjhaunfi
I got one many years ago and find it invaluable.
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@Surest1tch: I came across an original Singer hem marker, complete with box, at a 'vintage day' in Greenwich market but decided it was a piece of kit that I really didn't need.
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I do it from the waist seam down and stick pins parallel to the ground every couple of inches.
Eek, I'd never be able to do that as due to my "curvy" derriere, the back skirt needs to be longer then front. I'd measure from the floor up and make sure you are wearing the shoes you would be on the day. You can chalk some string and pin across the doorway at the right height and turn slowly so that the string brushes against the skirt and it will be level all the way round. Better still get someone to do it for you!
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Historically, they often hemmed those amazing, full, [sometimes trained] skirts by turning up a good wide [usually faced] hem, and adjusting the length at the waist before attaching the waistband
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Thanks to all for your replies. I started to measure from the waist down but I decided it wasn’t as easy as it sounded and went back to doing it by eye. I then turned the hem twice and blind hemmed it. This is slightly visible unfortunately now but my major worry which was a wavy hem has been avoided!
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That's lovely! I like the combination of the simple, boatneck front and the V-shaped back with the lapels. Nice use of fabrics, too.
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Thanks very much SS! <3
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Lovely dress! Ditto what SS said about the front and back.
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Thank you Samantha! <3
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Added a stole / wrap to wear with the dress the night before we left home! Always on the last minute! :S
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With my lovely Mum.
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What a glamorous pair! :D
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Lovely dress and what a good idea to make a shawl/stole to match. Love the colour and well done with the hem.
My contraption for hemming full skirts is to stand my dummy on the dog grooming table and attach my quilting ruler to the H frame stand and measure up from the table, and rotate the dummy I appreciate those of you without a dog grooming table won’t know what I’m talking about. Next full skirt I do I’ll post a picture 0_0 Otherwise I would hem first then attach at the waist.
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Lovely dress and you and your mum look great.
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You both look lovely! and what fabulous weather you had too! I love the dress, it's beautiful.