The Sewing Place
The Emporia => The Show Must Go On => Topic started by: Lolli on February 28, 2018, 10:29:00 AM
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Hi all, does anyone know of a pattern for this leotard? It was made for my daughter (not by me) for her dance show last year. She now wears it for her song and dance at festivals but the lycra isn't very stretchy and so it's becoming too small already. I'm thinking of attempting to make her a new one
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I've searched the entire internet, can't find anything like it with the deep plunge at the front. I'm starting to think the lady who made it, made her own pattern
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Lolli what about looking at swimsuit patterns? If you could get the styling, I'm sure you could transfer it to an ordinary leotard pattern.
Jessie
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Ooh o.k, I shall have a look. Thank you
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I have a leotard pattern but it'll probably be too small now.
Would this (probably barmy and not at all feesable) idea work?
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Lolli, I think you could use any leotard pattern here and just cut the front yourself. I would make it up with a normal front and add the nude insert behind, sew it to the shape you want then trim the pink fabric to that shape. If you want a pattern with this already in try Jalie Deep V illusion skating dress or the Long sleeveless Unitard pattern which you could easily adapt. Jalie patterns can be downloaded as pdfs and are great to adapt and mix and match designs. Tried for pics but couldn't do it sorry x
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Maybe take a look at Jalie's patterns for Figure-skating (https://jalie.com/sewing-patterns/specialized-sportswear/figure-skating?limit=all) and gymnastics (https://jalie.com/sewing-patterns/specialized-sportswear/gymnastics?limit=all)?
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I think I would be tempted to invest in some cheap lycra, and using a basic leotard pattern, cut a basic shape, and do as Lollipop suggests with the nude insert.
Jalie patterns are excellent, and if I remember correctly they also have good tutorials.
I made my first swimsuit a while ago, and wondered why it took me so long.
Jessie
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Excellent, thanks all. I think I'll risk it for a biscuit and make a toile first using a basic pattern and try to cut out the plunge myself.
Is any particular nude mesh recommended? If so what shade?
After I've cut the plunge out, do I fold the edge in towards the mesh then sew to tidy it up?
You lot are gonna wish I never joined this forum with all the questions I ask
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I think the nude piece would anchor the side fronts together. If you think the nude is too see through, just use it double.
Have a really good look inside the original, take pictures and measurements, and make notes. You may have to do a couple of toiles, but when you get the hang of how it's working out, it should be straightforward.
I'll enjoy watching your progress as my DGD has just started gymnastics, and her mum has just spent a fortune on one set of kit!
Jessie
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I've had a good look at the original and it's made out of multiple panels, 4 at the front and 4 at the back. Is it possible this was made from a stretch tutu pattern?
Not sure if you can make it out on the pics.
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Lolli, that shouldn't be too difficult to do. Looks to me like a princess seam leotard pattern which has been altered. The alteration for the nude panel is done on the cf panels. I'm sure you can do this!
I'm cheering you on here!
Jessie
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Your faith in me is very encouraging! :D
I'll have a look to see if I can find a princess seam leotard....(disappearing into the world of the web)
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No joy. Can only find one Jalie pattern (2915) but it's a top not a leotard (even though it says leotard on the description?) so I'll have to go back to plan A
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You can get a stretch tutu pattern from Dani Legge direct or Tutus that Dance or Tutus and Textiles that has mock princess seams, much easier.
This tutu uses that pattern and she also explains in the instructions how to do the nude insert.
Good luck and just keep asking :D
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The tutu pattern definitely seems the best option to recreate this particular leotard. The princess seams would be unnecessarily complicated right now without a commercial pattern but I remember what efforts you make and the determination you possess to get the job done so I believe it'd be a good time to make a master pattern for your next one.
You just need to get a basic leotard pattern and fit it as well as you can to create your master pattern which you can remodel/hack to adapt to other styles. You'll still need to make some alterations as she grows but they'll be less trouble than starting from scratch each time.
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Have you got an old leotard that you could hack about a bit?
Jessie
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You can get a stretch tutu pattern from Dani Legge direct or Tutus that Dance or Tutus and Textiles that has mock princess seams, much easier.
This tutu uses that pattern and she also explains in the instructions how to do the nude insert.
Good luck and just keep asking :D
I've been searching all evening on the internet and came across those stretch tutu patterns, it was the only thing that fully resembled what I was after. Am I right in reading you buy the instructions separately? I don't mind at all of course, as I plan to be brave enough to attempt a tutu one day....maybe a stretch tutu is an ideal first step before attempting bodice type? I may be completely wrong in thinking that but I'd still like to make tutus with it anyway
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Have you got an old leotard that you could hack about a bit?
Jessie
No because I'm stupid. I threw away all my daughters old ones a few weeks back. I could kick myself :(
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Am I right in reading you buy the instructions separately?
I am afraid you do, and you only get one size so it can get quite expensive to build up patterns. Stretch tutus seem to be becoming very popular lately but I have to admit that I prefer making structured tutus with piped bodices. Fiddly and faffy but very satisfying. Jalie also have a princess seamed tutu pattern that has a lovely shape but isn't as straightforward as Dani's.
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How do I make a master pattern? Using the tutu pattern or a basic leotard pattern?
You just choose a basic leotard pattern ideally with a fairly simple neck and choice of sleeves. Either Kwik Sew or Jalie would be a good choice depending on which proved to be a good fit with the others you made previously. Perhaps finding an all-in-one leotard rather than one with sewn on panties would be the best so you'll be able to move the waist up and down as desired without altering the panties every time, a centre back seam is good although you can always slice the back and add seam allowances if your pattern doesn't have a back seam. Next cut out and make up a sample and alter it until you get the very best fit then make alterations to the pattern to reflect the changes that you made at the fitting session/s.
That's your master, simple as that! Once you've got this you'll be able use this pattern to trace from to hack into different styles such as a mesh yoke above a sweetheart/straight cut or deep V neckline, a keyhole front or back opening, a low back with criss cross straps etc etc. and know they will fit.
You can create another master from a basic raglan pattern and use that to create a halter neck, a triangular back opening etc.
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I am afraid you do, and you only get one size so it can get quite expensive to build up patterns.
Ah that was going to be my next question. If once you've bought a pattern in one size, can it be adjusted to other sizes. I don't mind having to buy other sizes though (I just won't tell my husband
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You just choose a basic leotard pattern ideally with a fairly simple neck and choice of sleeves. Either Kwik Sew or Jalie would be a good choice depending on which proved to be a good fit with the others you made previously.
I have this Kwik Sew pattern, it's the one I used when making the two lyrical dresses. It's in women's sizes and at the time (2 years ago believe it or not!) if you remember I had issues with it being too low at the neckline for my DD who was only 13 at the time and I had a lot of faff to sort that out. She's now got her womanly shape so it would probably be o.k now?
Just wondering if the empire seam is a problem as regards to using it as a master?
Next cut out and make up a sample and alter it until you get the very best fit then make alterations to the pattern to reflect the changes that you made at the fitting session/s.
Have I got this right?
Make it up, put it on (inside out?), pin to fit, sew, take apart at seams, trace, draw on the pattern any design changes, cut out from that and remake?
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Is the best thing to use for elastic the same as before? The rubber tape from Tutus and Textiles? And would it be feesable to just buy some cheap elastic for the trial and error bit?
I'm still deciding whether to go for the tutu pattern (seen as I've not done costume making for a while) or to try the master pattern option
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The master pattern option would still require you to get a pattern with some of the design features for this particular leotard because of the princess line styling. In theory you can hack a base pattern to include princess seams but I've not attempted that myself yet and is why I wasn't recommending it for this current leotard. That means you'll still be looking for a pattern and, although there's some expense I know so many ballet makers really swear by Dani's tutu patterns.
I have this Kwik Sew pattern, it's the one I used when making the two lyrical dresses. It's in women's sizes and at the time (2 years ago believe it or not!) if you remember I had issues with it being too low at the neckline for my DD who was only 13 at the time and I had a lot of faff to sort that out. She's now got her womanly shape so it would probably be o.k now?
Just wondering if the empire seam is a problem as regards to using it as a master?
It could do you as a master for leotards with straps but, if you did want to do leotard styles with shoulders it won't help with that. Because you're doing ballet costumes rather than ballroom & latin like me, you may find you make more of this style - the only thing that might be a problem is the empire line. I say this because it's probably not a straight cut and the pattern maker may have used the seam to create shape by effectively using it as a dart (as princess seams do). That means you can't just cut & paste the two edges together to make an unseamed leotard pattern.
For my DGD I originally used Kwik Sew 3661 (https://kwiksew.mccall.com/k3661) which gave me a fitted blank canvas to hack and restyle into a range of different styles. Your requirements are a little different for ballet as you're not making the same skirts as me or attaching a dress over a leotard base but you may decide that 3 classic patterns would give you lots of options at your stage of sewing:
1. scoop neck leotard
2. strap top leotard
3. princess line leotard
Have I got this right?
Make it up, put it on (inside out?), pin to fit, sew, take apart at seams, trace, draw on the pattern any design changes, cut out from that and remake?
That's about it and make sure you mark your retraced pattern as the fitted version with a few notes on what alterations you made (if any). Your test garment can be remodelled and reused if there aren't too many alterations (won't be any good if you've had to dart out a sway back but other alterations may leave it perfectly usable). You keep that tracing as your 'master pattern' and if you want to change the style you just trace it again to be the basis of your new style and draw your style lines on it and trace other bits from it adding seam allowances as necessary.
You can see in the attached photos one of the trace-offs from my master pattern and the lines that I drew on it for creating a lace yoke and two different back necklines (the pattern was cut out with one to use with a cowl back and then I'd drawn on another for a plunge back. The smaller paper pieces are the separate pattern pieces traced off with extended overlap sections for the construction process.
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Is the best thing to use for elastic the same as before? The rubber tape from Tutus and Textiles? And would it be feesable to just buy some cheap elastic for the trial and error bit?
Yes, you can use cheap elastic for trial and error if you need to go that far on your trial garment but you should compare the stretch of the rubber tape to it so you know to make it longer or shorter when you do the final job.
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Hi Lolli, yes it's the Mock Russian version, I don't buy swimsuit elastic just buy knit elastic that stays the same width when it is stretched. You can adjust the amount you use depending on how stretchy it is.
Yes you can adapt a pattern if you are clever enough (I'm getting better at it!) and if the change is fairly small, although I do have a few sizes in the tutu patterns that I use.
I have quite a few different Jalie patterns (multisize) which are great for making custom sizes and custom styles too.
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Thanks for the photos Marniesews, I understand what you've done there. I suppose it's all trial and error to begin with when adjusting patterns until you've got the hang of it. I think it may be a good idea for me to stock up on plenty of cheap lycra to play with!
There's no rush for me to make this leotard and therefore I'm not scared because I don't feel under pressure haha. I can approach it calmly :S
If you've not attempted to add princess seams to a base pattern, there's absolutely no way I'm trying it!
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Nude mesh: assuming you don't want to buy the pricey stuff from DSI or Trim-It... several places sell it but I know the following are worth trying:
* Showtime Fabrics (http://showtimefabrics.co.uk/Stretch-Power-Mesh-Flesh) do a reasonably priced range. It's not the very best quality but will last a few years as long as it's not worn week in and out.
* Tia Knight (http://www.tiaknightfabrics.co.uk/fabrics-c1/sheer-c11/power-mesh-fabric-c40/power-mesh-109-lt-c100/lt-power-mesh-4-way-stretch-material-skin-109-lt-skn-p476) has quite a big range of colours so if you decide to try that take care not to get the corsetry range as there is far less stretch in that (for obvious reasons) but I recently got some of that (not sure how good the quality would be) to insert bra cups into for internal support and it was actually very good.
To understand why I've not yet attempted to add Princess seams to a master pattern you need to be aware that they replace darts and are normally drafted to include a vertical shoulder dart (or armhole dart) and waist dart. This is why princess seams can create such a great fitting shape. However, all the info I had on creating princess seams were from patternmaking books for woven fabrics and described how you manipulated the princess line to encompass these darts. This info (http://www.thecuttingclass.com/princess-panel-lines/) on drafting through the darts should help you visualise my rambling more clearly!
Now all the commercial stretch patterns that I had were dartless so I was unsure how to go about it. CarolC might know more than me about this although it is explained in my drafting book for stretch knit fabrics and is on my list to experiment with, but still a little way down my list.
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Lolli, although I've been sewing for 50 odd years, I have been making tutus and stretch dancewear for about 3 so not that long. Books, You Tube and asking friends have helped enormously; and practice with loads of mistakes that are usually consigned to the bin or dressing up box. :D
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Brilliant, thank you for the links
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6cm may sound like a lot at first but if you divide it between your side seams it's only 1.5cm to add front and back, not so much that you can't just cut it out a little wider over the hips.
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Oh that sounds better....I thought it was a disaster! Thanks (again!)
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The link for the cheap scuba for practising is shop.coalvillefabrics.co.uk
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You can use scuba but the one I've experimented with it in the past but it only had effective one-way stretch (and not even much stretch that way either) so you can't really go by your pattern sizing - I had to go up one size every time. Something to bear in mind.
I'd suggest you get along to Immanuel's in Burnley tomorrow. Assuming they have some in it'll be only £2pm.
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I was thinking of going back to Immanuels for some cheap lycra. I had such success last time, bought lots of different fabrics for not much money. I'm wondering if it's bad with snow there though, I'll have to investigate
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Oh and lining, what type should I use? I think that's it for questions for now
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I will send you a message Lolli.
I didn't realise you were near Immanuels - ignore what I said about fabric and go there!!
Marnie, I agree about the scuba, the one I have has a decent stretch.
For small patterns like that I use baking paper to trace the pattern, and for larger I bought some metre wide tracing paper that planners use from ebay I think it was about a tenner for 20 meters.
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I went to Immanuel's this afternoon, got 9 metres lycra for £18 (bargain!). I know it's WAY more than I need....couldn't help but get a decent stash while I was there.
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When I added a deep V to a unitard, I made a mock-up first without the V. Then, I had the dancer try it on & sketched in the shape on her. Remember that the fabric stretches - I've made a few scandalous mock-ups by mistake. This way when she takes it off the V will be the right size to cut as a pattern piece. Also, you may not need the full 6 cm at the hip - it could end up baggy. I suggest measuring the actual pattern at the hip and comparing it to the measurements that it says that it fits. That ratio is probably what you want to stick to. Happy sewing
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Oh, I do envy you & Immanuel's. Not sure if it was open when we lived up there (left in 1982).
Fabricland's lining isn't bad actually.
Regarding the paper: it's spot and cross paper traditionally used for pattern drafting but not essential for tracing patterns (although I use it for that too). I like it because the markings help with orientation, keeping things on grain. It's not as easy to see through for tracing but I'm not bothering with 2 different lots of paper.
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Brilliant thank you all for the tips and advice. I think I've got enough lycra to make 8-9 leotards so at least I've got enough incase I have plenty of disasters.
Just waiting for the pattern instructions to arrive so I can sit with a brew and swat up
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Can I ask what does 'clip to dot' mean on pattern instructions?
Also the pattern says to only to add lining in the body area, leaving the pants area as one layer for extra stretch. As on this occasion I'm only making the leotard part and not the tutu, would I be o.k to fully line it? Don't want the pants area to be slightly see through -<
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The clip to dot means to snip in from the seam allowance as far as the dot marked on the pattern while being careful not to go beyond. It may be where the pattern piece turns a corner so you need to release the fabric in the seam allowance to allow it to open (or overlap) when the garment is opened out. Sometimes it may be because you're attaching a facing partway along the seam and the seam allowance needs to split so part of it can be tucked inside the facing separately from the rest of the seam allowance. Not sure I've described that particularly well but hope you've got the gist.
Lining? I've used lycra lining to interline a bodice front from sweetheart neck to crotch without any noticeable reduction in stretch. Just check that your lining has reasonable stretch. This one didn't have separate panties.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/791/39169950600_2f65954213_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22FjeDS) nude lining attached to white lycra (the white on the right is mesh overlapped from the upper bodice)
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Oh I see! I've done that before on other patterns but it was was worded as 'clip seams' hence the confusion :S
For the mock up I'm just going to use the same lycra for lining as I make it with but for the real thing I'll get some lycra lining. I was hoping it would be o.k to fully line, just wasn't sure if it would make a big difference to the stretch. Thank you for your help once again!