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« on: August 15, 2023, 00:52:47 AM »
Could I ask, did you sort out all the fitting issues on the first toile fully, before moving onto the pattern? I cannot see where the bust point is marked on this, nor where the waistline is. It looks to me like the front waistline is dipping down but that could just be the angle of the photo.
To echo Brenda, you need to have the darts in the skirt and you also need to build in ease in the skirt (else she won't be be able to sit down in her dress). The darts of skirt should line up with the darts of the bodice. The wrinkling, particularly in the skirt area, could be that the skirt is too tight, making everything ride up. Once you have that sorted, then you can better look at the bodice. It might be that you need to pinch out the excess in the bodice back.
I'm not sure what exactly is going on with the shoulders/arm syce, particularly as these seemed to fit on the toile. It looks to me as is the shoulders are being forced to sit too wide, which is possibly causing the rucking at the shoulder/arm scye and looking at the back, the shoulders/upper back look too wide and are going down onto the upper arm, further suggesting that they need pulling up onto the shoulders more. I would consider moving the shoulders of the dress on the physical shoulders more and making the V of the front bodice less dramatic. The wider the neckline, the higher the risk of the dress falling off the shoulders.
I note that the back darts are at an angle, which is not usual. Darts (with the exception of a french dart) generally go up and down. That's not to say that you can't do that, it could be a style line. However, being as I would strongly recommend that this is boned (to stop the dress falling off the shoulders), you could use the angled darts as a basis for the line the boning would take on the back. Also, you appear not to have gone for a princess line on the back, which is unusual when there is that styling on the front.