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Messages - Helen M

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In the wardrobe / Re: RTW top I'd like to copy
« on: Today at 10:35:58 »
That was the pattern that I had in mind also the Creative Cate.

@SewRuthieSews do you remember the SewingEngineer on Stitcher's Guild who used to make so many Style Arc patterns? I seem to remember her attaching a clip-on earring to the cowl and gathering it in making something like the top you have in mind.

In the wardrobe / Re: RTW top I'd like to copy
« on: Yesterday at 10:01:20 »
@SewRuthieSews It's not a sort of cowl neck that is gathered then fastened into the piece of fabric is it?

Technical Help / Re: Drag Lines On Sleeves - Help Please!
« on: August 03, 2022, 12:05:28 PM »
A sort of update on this pattern!

I've traced the pattern pieces and am going to try various alterations on other fabric, but in the meantime I looked up Nina Lee who is the pattern designer. I decided to email to ask if the shoulder was supposed to be an extended one and said what I had done and gave my problem. Had a reply saying it isn't extended but is wide. She asked how I'd narrowed the shoulder so we'll see what happen.

If nothing else I feel I'm going to get to grips with this problem and intend to do a proper bodice sloper for future reference.

@b15erk if you're on Instagram look for@IntoStitches and go well down her posts and look for a mustard one that she is wearing inside out. It's around 2019 so you need to keep scrolling! I'm not sure if she has a blog as well but I like a lot of her makes.

I have the pattern but never got around to making it up...... I think the dollar rate was a bit more in our favour at the time as well and maybe it's gone up since.

Technical Help / Re: Drag Lines On Sleeves - Help Please!
« on: July 26, 2022, 11:34:32 AM »
Have tried on dress once more and on the side I've adjusted I pinched in the sleeve under the shoulder seam starting about 2" down from shoulder seam and it removes the highest drag line somewhat. So before I do a toile I'm going to re fit that sleeve. The back is fine apart from right under armhole so that is probably something to do with both front and back.

I'm also wondering if I should only use a 3/8" seam allowance on the sleeve head as that would allow it to drop or am I going in the wrong direction? I was cursing the 5/8" seams but for once maybe they have some use!

Have also re-checked if I need a forward shoulder adjustment and it would be miniscule at the neck end just to slightly lower the neckline a tiny bit so I'll leave it unless I cut a new bodice.

Technical Help / Re: Drag Lines On Sleeves - Help Please!
« on: July 26, 2022, 10:16:07 AM »
Thanks everyone!

@Catllar I wondered about a forward shoulder adjustment but the seam sit fine on my shoulder, I will try moving the sleeve just to see though.

@Ouryve she was right there is hardly any gathering in the sleeve head even though they say to run gathering lines between the notches.

I actually think the sleeve itself is the main part of the problem, I've compared it to a Style Arc sleeve on a pattern I have made and the sleevehead is very shallow on this one. I have also compared the bodices of same pattern and the armscye is much deeper on the Nina Lee. Seems odd, I haven't measured opening on either for comparison yet.

The sleeve and bodice matched from side seam to notches.

I was trying it with the ties done up as you do them before the sleeve @b15erk, and it sat nicely which I felt was a good sign........

@realale I have square shoulders and did an adjustment prior to cutting out. I raised the side seam by the same amount as the shoulder which has always worked in the past.

I definitely need the shoulder adjustment as I am very narrow shouldered @Surest1tch. I wonder if I should try (on a toile) shifting the top half of the bodice in but retain the neck bit as it seems to be okay. I watched a You Tube video just as a refresher yesterday before I posted.

I'm going to try on dress later and take note of differences between the 2 shoulders as I have left the original one stitched in place.

In the meantime I'm going to take some measurments and trace off the pattern pieces and fiddle before cutting out a toile in some other fabric.

The drag lines are like those on the patterned dress @BrendaP (right sleeve as you look at picture) and start about half way up the front bodice. I'll try on dress and leave ties undone to see how the neck end lies. My fabric is patterned so not so easy to see.

I'll come back with first findings but the rest could take me a bit longer. I think a toile of the top and sleeve are called for. Just as well I have some other viscose fabric that I'm not so keen on!

Technical Help / Re: Drag Lines On Sleeves - Help Please!
« on: July 25, 2022, 20:52:08 PM »
They do look wide @b15erk  and I'm wondering if you take in the bit of the sleeve that goes underarm it would fix the problem? I wish I had noticed the lines on the photos beforehand.

Technical Help / Re: Drag Lines On Sleeves - Help Please!
« on: July 25, 2022, 20:18:58 PM »
At last managed to get an attachment loaded.

Technical Help / Drag Lines On Sleeves - Help Please!
« on: July 25, 2022, 19:40:45 PM »
I'm sewing up the Spring Dress which is a Nina Lee pattern that came with I think Simply Sewing last year. I have lengthend both tiers and it looks good apart from the long sleeves. I should have done a toile for the bodice but decided to just jump in and see what happened.  :facepalm:

I'm narrow shouldered and narrower across the shoulder front going down probably almost as far as the under arm. I went ahead and tacked in sleeves but of course shoulders were too wide so undid one and narrowed bodice and re attached sleeve. I did not alter sleeve piece at all.

I have 'drag' lines similar to the photo of dress from magazine which of course I did not notice before........

So should I have altered the sleeve at the front? Back seems to be okay by the way. There are fewer drag lines on the side that has not been altered but of course bodice has not been altered.

Looking more closely at the plain fabric version the shoulder do seem to be slightly extended so have I taken them too far? There is 5/8" seam allowance so a bit of leeway. 

I have a good half metre of fabric left so I could if necessary cut out bodice again, would prefer not to as I've already attached the neckband which was a bit fiddly. I guess I could cut out new sleeves but not both of them. I'm not using the frill on sleeve.

Any help gratefully received!

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Patterns Discussion / Re: StyleArc Montana
« on: July 23, 2022, 19:50:37 PM »
Not sure if you're planning to do the double bodice method for the top on this dress @Ellabella but came across this when I was perusing the SA website this morning. It was under 'magazine' right at the bottom of the home page. I think it will also be in the tutorial section as well. Anyway I thought I'd post the link:-

Patterns Discussion / Re: StyleArc Montana
« on: July 21, 2022, 10:24:52 AM »
I used double gauze for a beach cover up but don't think I'd use it for a dress.

Well spotted @Helen M , its time to buy that Montana after all. :perfect10:

I'd actually gone on to look at the suggested fabrics for the Montana after your post @Ellabella!! It must have just gone on as I usually have an email from them.

Just seen on the Stylc Arc site that there is a 25% discount on all patterns with the code HOLLYJOLLY25  from 21st -29th July.

The offer is valid on ETSY with the same code and on Amazon with no code required.

Patterns Discussion / Re: StyleArc Montana
« on: July 20, 2022, 19:35:47 PM »
The only thing I found was that the neckline was a bit wide on me @Ellabella but I am very narrow across the shoulders. If I made it again I'd cut it on the fold (sorry can't recall if it's cut on fold or a 1 layer layout) to make it narrower. I didn't use the double bodice method as I didn't have sufficient fabric and after using the facing I didn't find it lay very well so I  made my own bias tape which worked well. It was the first time I'd done that!

I used a viscose which drapes nicely. Not sure if double gauze would do that?

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