Oh that’s an interesting thought Ouryve, I’ll have a look for some

Hi ohsewsimple, agree it’s looking better. I’ll see my daughter tomorrow and get her to put it on again and do the elastic trick.  I used a basic bodice block and lengthened it to high hip.  There are darts but i cut the bottom darts open and put fabric behind (no idea why I didn’t just open them up). 

Thank you for continuing to advise me, I don’t feel to isolated when i read your comments.  I thought that when i made the bodice without ease then the skirt had to be the same and that’s why i left the darts out.  I can see now that the darts are necessary.  Ok onto the next toile.  What should i do about the gaping at the front armscye and do i need to move the shoulder straps nearer the neck a bit or do they look ok?

Hi, this is the latest toile and as you can see it’s not great.  I shortened the bodice, changed the princess seams to armscye princess, drew the new style lines, added the skirt part and made up.  Looks like I’ve taken too much from the back or else it’s too tight and riding up. Also, the shoulders are not sitting right and are pinned as they are too long and it’s gaping again at the front armscye. Don’t understand this as the shoulders looked as though they fit on the full bodice.  I’m so exasperated that I don’t know how to fix this.

Hi, not managed to see my daughter as she’s been busy with work but i take on board all of your very helpful advice.  Correct me if I’m wrong, i need to make a fitted bodice to waist length and make a short skirt to high hip and attach.  Once i get that fitted then i can draw the style lines. Do i merge the bodice and skirt at this stake?  It’ll have an illusion panel at centre front and she won’t be wearing a bra but I’ll put in bra cups.  The v at the back i want to close at the waist and a zip will be added to go up to the waist. Does this sound right?

The last group of pics were a reworking of the first ones.  The centre front has an illusion piece added whereas the original just had self fabric as I didn’t have any illusion at the time.  I moved the bust point lower down and moved the princess seam higher on the armscye.  I reduced the side seams as it looked too big but not sure if that altered the underarm seam or if it was already off.  I should probably check the measurements again and check the pattern.

Hi, I've tried another toile but it’s still not right.  I used some scrap duchess satin which is the same as the real fabric I’ll be using.  I took too much from the armscye now its too gapey, the back just doesnt sit right and the underarm seam needs to move further to the back.  I’m so struggling to get this to work and it’s really stressing me out.  I thought maybe i needed to increase the high hip measurement too but not sure I’m reading it right. Please can anyone help.  Oh and i also added boning and lining.

Thanks everyone for your very helpful advice.  I will make another toile of the bodice using a firmer fabric, lower the bust point, add boning to front, back and sides and line it too. It may be a couple of weeks before i post again as my daughter is going on holiday and I won’t be able to try it on till she gets back.  I look forward to your input again, thanks