The Sewing Place

The Emporia => The Show Must Go On => Topic started by: Lolli on June 25, 2018, 18:26:55 PM

Title: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on June 25, 2018, 18:26:55 PM
I'm trying to find a pattern to make something similar to this...

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

Jalie have some that have sleeves but not high necked. Does anyone know of a pattern similar to the above?

Failing that, would it be feesable to use the pattern below? Was thinking I could make the sweetheart neck into a plunge (we all know I've done that before haha!), and make a half circle skirt to attach?

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Efemera on June 25, 2018, 19:16:21 PM
Dont see why not.. a high neck would be easy to add.
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Catllar on June 25, 2018, 20:04:50 PM
I'd hack the Jalie. High neck hack is easy enough. The skirt concerns me a bit though - the front section looks a bit odd with the space at CF.  If it were mine I'd close the skirt piece  at the waist line and then open it down on a curve from the waist seam. But as it's nothing to do with me feel totally free to  ignore me!
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on June 25, 2018, 21:02:48 PM
@Catllar I totally agree about the skirt, I think it looks odd too. Your suggestion is much better.

To make a high neck on the Jalie, would it be as simple as cutting a strip and sewing it on?
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Catllar on June 26, 2018, 08:29:30 AM
Theoretically yes but you'll be needing to shape it to curve into the throat. Not a lot cos the stretch is forgiving but essentially you are making a neck band.   [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]   Don't know if you can see but that's what I did here.
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Sewingforfun on June 26, 2018, 09:04:30 AM
How about this one - Kwiksew K3272? It has a high neck, raglan sleeves and even a sort of similar back. You'd have to add the sweetheart style lines at the front, alter the skirt and how it attaches, and drop the back, but it would be a good place to start.

https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/k3272#.WzHyKi-ZNzA





Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on June 26, 2018, 09:35:58 AM
Thank you for the suggestion @Sewingforfun  ;)

I'm not sure what I'd be more confident to tackle, making the high neck on the Jalie or creating a new front on the Kwik Sew. I'm not very good at altering designs of patterns and the thought scares me  :S
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Sewingforfun on June 26, 2018, 11:57:23 AM
Thank you for the suggestion @Sewingforfun  ;)

I'm not sure what I'd be more confident to tackle, making the high neck on the Jalie or creating a new front on the Kwik Sew. I'm not very good at altering designs of patterns and the thought scares me  :S

You're welcome!

I'd go with the Kwik-Sew, because it has most of the hard stuff already done for you - the raglan sleeves, the high neck, the angled lines on the back shoulders. The rest is actually pretty simple, much easier than the last one, because the sweetheart is just a colour block, not structural like the last one.

What I'd do is this. You'll need some tracing paper (you can buy it for sewing or I often use the stuff from Rymans taped together to make the correct sized piece!). It looks long, but I've tried to separate the steps for clarity.

1) trace off and make up the Kwik-Sew in a cheap lycra to the correct size (adjusting the length if you need to), but without the skirt (just sew the panties part on without it).

2) once it fits, with your DD wearing it, use a marker pen to draw the sweetheart shape on where you want it. If you want those contrast cuffs, mark lines those too, and mark the cutaway back line.

3) decide how you want the skirt - sewn into the leotard lie a skating skirt? Or sewn on the top, which is what the pictures looks like.Cut a test skirt (it looks like a simple half circle in chiffon), and fiddle with that using pins until you are happy with it, and mark the line it goes on, too.

4) make a tracing of the correctly fitting pattern with whatever changes you made including tracing the sweetheart, back lines, etc.  If you want to sew the skirt in, mark the new line where it goes, or if you want it on top, merge the panties piece into the main leotard body to make single pieces

5) Cut out your new pattern, adding seam allowances where you need them. Make some straps - here  (https://blog.treasurie.com/how-to-make-spandex-straps/) are some methods

6) make a new toile, preferably with mesh for the mesh parts, and make any extra changes.

7) Cut and make up the whole thing in your final fabrics.
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Marniesews on June 26, 2018, 14:24:51 PM
Nothing to add to this. I'd go with sewingforfun's advice.
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: MitchOfTheNorth on June 26, 2018, 16:29:01 PM
Have you looked at Jalie 2917?  It has the skirt - just omit the front bit.  It has the high neck and a keyhole back opening.  So, you'd combine the main bit of the bodice with that strip at the top into one piece, reshape the neckline and open up the back a little more.
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on June 26, 2018, 17:09:13 PM
Thank you @Sewingforfun for your detailed description of what to do, that's incredibly helpful to me and @MitchOfTheNorth for the other Jalie pattern suggestion. I had seen that one but as it's straight across at the bust I skipped past it.

I'll have a thorough look at the Kwik Sew  and Jalie 2917 and see which one I'm brave enough to tackle  -<
It's a shame you can't pre-download the Kwik Sew instructions as you can the Jalie ones, that would be handy.
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Georgie on June 27, 2018, 17:10:45 PM
I have this pattern do you want a photo of the instructions?
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on June 27, 2018, 18:13:07 PM
@Georgie that would be fantastic, thank you!  0_0 I'll pm you my email
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Georgie on June 27, 2018, 20:57:08 PM
Just emailed them to you it’s a real easy pattern x
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on June 27, 2018, 21:23:00 PM
Just emailed them to you it’s a real easy pattern x

Thank you so much! Was just about to post to say I'd decided to go for the Kwik Sew pattern, I think that will be the easiest to tweak. After looking online at the back of the pattern it tells you sizes XS, S, M, L etc but doesn't tell you what measurements fit those sizes. Is there a chart online that I can compare my DD'S body measurements to, so I know what size she falls into?


***edited to say I've just seen the chart on one of the pics  :D
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: sewing in oz on June 29, 2018, 07:58:30 AM
Here's an ebay listing with a photo of the back of the pattern envelope, which has the sizes on it.  Does this help?

Kwiksew 3272 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kwik-Sew-Sewing-Pattern-3272-Ladies-XS-XL-Halter-Bodysuit-Leotard-Dance-Costume/222974271823?epid=1128470095&hash=item33ea4d614f:g:ZnAAAOSwDPNa9S1v)
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on June 29, 2018, 08:57:34 AM
Thank you! The pics I saw on the internet didn't show the measurements for some reason. I bought it yesterday  0_0
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on July 22, 2018, 10:58:36 AM
I've made a start with this costume, made the first one up for fitting and drawn the sweetheart style line, taken it apart again ready to re-trace. Once I've made the toile (hopefully it works!) I'll also need to make a toile of the skirt (it's being sewn on rather than within a seam).
My DD wants the skirt to start at the side seams as that was the original idea. Neither of us like the position of the skirt on the pics at the beginning of this thread, we think it looks odd but she also doesn't want it to start at the CF sloping out to the sides. She needs to be able to hold the edges of the skirt right out at the sides so if I'm correct she needs a full circle skirt but only half of it? If I am right in that approach, how do I go about it without making a full circle skirt and cutting it in half and therefore wasting fabric? A pic of the original skirt idea...

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Sewingforfun on July 23, 2018, 12:51:00 PM
Hi! Glad it's all coming along.

Circles/half circles/quarter circles/two circles/three circles are all really easy and all made the same way.  For an adult/teen longer length you will have to make them in several sections anyway, unless your fabric is really wide. It's only for little kids or very short skirts that you can make in one piece folded twice.

You make a pattern for a quarter of the circle, then cut it on the fold for a half circle, cut two half circles and stitch together for a full circle, cut four half circles for two circles, etc! 

There are lots of circle skirt calculators on the interweb - this Craftsy tutorial (https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/article/sew-circle-skirt/) is pretty clear about how to lay it out and add seam allowances. Here is another one (https://www.easycalculation.com/other/circle-skirt-calculator.php) that has a built in calculator.

One thought - if she needs to pick it up high (anything with hands above waist) a full circle might be better as it will give her more fabric to play with without the back riding up.  If you do want to do a full circle attached at the back only, use ½ the waist measurement in your calculations to keep the waist hole from being too big.

Good luck! xx
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on July 23, 2018, 19:17:17 PM
If you do want to do a full circle attached at the back only, use ½ the waist measurement in your calculations to keep the waist hole from being too big.

See, I wouldn't have known that!

Thank you Carol, that info has cleared up all my confusion. I think I know what I'm doing now  0_0 xx
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on July 27, 2018, 12:28:03 PM
So this skirt.....

Is it best to sew it straight onto the leotard or attach it to some elastic first? Not sure of the best technique for placement without it being too bulky.

Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lollipop on July 27, 2018, 20:57:22 PM
For the pants I would add it between the waistband and pants and if its a leotard I make a cut line, remembering to add seam allowance, where I want the skirt to fall from. 0_0
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Yellowfeather on July 28, 2018, 07:48:54 AM
I wouldn't attach elastic to the skirt, the Lycra will act as the elastic for you.  I doesn't really matter if you add the skirt into the seam or sew it on after, if I have a seam, then I would use it, but if not, I prefer to mark where I want the skirt to be and sew on, that way if there is a change of mind, or the child grows etc, you can move/replace it much easier.  Just remember that if your skirt fabric has no stretch, you will need to stretch out the Lycra as you sew.
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on July 28, 2018, 10:58:14 AM
Thank you @Yellowfeather   :flower:

There was a waist seam on the original pattern but it went down into a point at the front and back. I didn't want that so took it out during the hacking process. It's now a full leotard with no waist seam and the intention has always been to sew it on rather than in, plus it's only going round the back.
I was wondering if I should sew the skirt on upside down so there's no raw edge visible?
By that I mean sewing it right sides together with skirt fabric towards the top half of the leotard so that once sewn, it hangs over. Not sure I've made any sense there!
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Yellowfeather on July 28, 2018, 11:26:02 AM
Perfect sense! :D  And yes, sew it on upside down, then the raw edge is hidden underneath.
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on July 28, 2018, 12:47:11 PM
Oh finally, I am showing signs of having an inkling of what I'm doing haha  0_0 0_0

Thank you  ;)
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Sewingforfun on July 28, 2018, 15:11:22 PM
One more small thought I'm sure you've also already thought of - use a zig zag or stretch stitch to attach it so it has a little give.

xx
Title: Re: Any Ideas Costume Makers?
Post by: Lolli on July 28, 2018, 17:19:24 PM
Yep, that's one I do know!  0_0
Thanks Carol xx