The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Patterns Discussion => Topic started by: charlotte on August 05, 2019, 13:43:59 PM
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I am about to embark on a raincoat adventure using this pattern. (https://thesewingrecipe.com/en/product/trufflecoat_en/)
However, the more I look at it, the more unsure I am about the front placket. It's perhaps not immediately noticeable in the picture, but it is definitely offset. I am sure this is supposed to be a design feature, but I just can't understand why it is not centred between the pockets. Surely the centre front line should run down the centre front of the placket, rather than the right hand side? Or it should be even more obviously offset to emphasise it if it is a design feature. Am I missing something? Do raincoats usually have offset plackets? Also, surely the child's version should have the placket going the other way as its a unisex style?
Other than this, I am loving the pattern. I have made up a toile and it went together beautifully. It's just this placket thing that is confusing me.
(https://i.imgur.com/c9u52uUl.png)
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I've just looked at my waterproof coat (Jack Murphy). It does indeed have the placket just as in your picture. It is the zip underneath that is centred. I don't think the snaps on mine are quite as close to the edge - that seems to draw attention to its offset nature.
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No, it is definitely offset, because you sew it on with the zip. So the edge is much closer to the pocket on the left front than the stitching line is to the pocket on the right front
(https://i.imgur.com/tbCvGktl.png)
I have looked at my Barbour and the front placket is definitely centred between the two patch pockets. Ditto on this Seasalt jacket, the front placket is centred between the welt pockets.
(https://img-4.fruugo.com/product/7/89/58502897_max.jpg)
What I can't decide is whether to change it. I am considering toggles, like the coat above, and I think they might look odd with it offset, but if I go with buttons or snaps then it would probably work.
And as for the overlapping direction on the children's coat seeing as it literally doesn't matter in the slightest which way round a coat laps (and certainly shouldn't pertain to what gender that child happens to be) I can't see it mattering. I sew/knit garments with overlaps whichever way I happen to pick up the garment. I don't make a conscious decision which way to overlap something.
The thing is there is a convention. Especially for a small child learning buttons etc. it is much easier if everything goes the same way. I agree that the arbitrary gender determination is quite odd, but you can bet a toddler will struggle when you're suddenly trying to get them to button their coat with it the other way round!
I'm probably overthinking this whole thing though!
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That definitely looks odd to me and I would think it’s a drafting fault not a design feature. It just doesn’t look right. At first I thought it was because the snaps are positioned on the edge but the line drawing suggests it's just wrong!
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I'm going to watch this one, I bought the pattern but shelved it for another time, but I do like it although can't remember if there was a collar instead of the hood, I'm not keen on hoods.
I see what you mean by the placket, I'd not noticed that.
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This is simply standard "weather coat" construction.
When there is a zip and snaps, the zip is centered and therefore the snaps must be offset.
I'm usually rather anal about never wanting asymmetrical clothing, and nothing about this coat looks odd. Its a great coat.
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I've just checked my coat and both the zip and the placket are centered, but the snaps not, because the placket starts before the zip (if that makes sense) and both pockets are equidistant from the placket edge.
The pocket thing would really annoy me to be honest. I was having a similar problem with jeans pockets and I ended up leaving them off. I understand that I'm a bit too pedantic though.
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The zip/placket/poppers thing I would make to please the eye. (Best straight line sort of thing).
Could not look at wonky pocket spacing! 8)
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I'm pretty sure that the zip will be centered. Would it be possible to make the overlap a bit narrower so that it too is centered between the pockets?
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Thanks all!
I do like it although can't remember if there was a collar instead of the hood, I'm not keen on hoods.
Yes, there is a collar option :)
This is simply standard "weather coat" construction.
When there is a zip and snaps, the zip is centred and therefore the snaps must be offset.
Yes, I understand that the snaps would be offset, but in this case the whole placket is offset!
I think that the general consensus is that this is at least odd, if not completely wrong, so I will be moving it over. It's not a tricky fix, I just couldn't decide whether it needed fixing or not!
Finished the toile fitting last night. I have my waxed fabric ordered and popping to Liberty after work to choose my lining fabric. :D
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I so want this centring issue to be sorted out, because I love this pattern (thank you for posting @charlotte ), and I would really like to have a go at it, but, I couldn't live with the off-centre issue.
Jessie
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I so want this centring issue to be sorted out, because I love this pattern (thank you for posting @charlotte ), and I would really like to have a go at it, but, I couldn't live with the off-centre issue.
Jessie
So my fix is:
Sew the zip to the right front as per the instructions for the view option without the placket.
Measure 2.5cm from centre front/centre of the zip (the placket is 5cm wide) and mark a vertical line on the right front, parallel to centre front.
Stitch the placket along this line right sides together, stitch seam allowance to jacket front and trim seam allowance close to this stitching line. Press the placket towards the centre front and topstitch, enclosing raw edge.
I'm sure this is not the traditional way to apply a placket but this is the same application used for the pocket flaps, and seems like the easiest fix. The only issue is that the placket may need to be a tiny bit longer, because it will start a bit higher up the neck curve, but I will just not stitch the placket until I have marked the line on the jacket front.
Also, if you are looking at the pattern, the digital pattern comes with 'copy shop' PDFs which I used for the first time. Two of the sheets were a bit bigger than A0 but I used Netprinter and chose the 'oversized' option. Their website was very easy to use and my printing arrived in two days.
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It's not just the snaps @Esme866 but the fact that the placket doesn’t look centred and therefore is not equidistant from each pocket.
I’m curious to see a pattern piece for the front.
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I’m curious to see a pattern piece for the front.
There's not much to see in terms of the placket placement. It is basically just sewn onto the jacket edge with the zip, so it is clear. I think the pattern was probably designed to have an exposed centre zip (as that is one option) and the placket is just an afterthought that doesn't quite work.
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Thanks for posting this. I have just purchased the pattern :D