The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Popeye09 on September 11, 2019, 00:03:02 AM
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Let's say for sake of argument that I had a couple of denim remnants that had enough surface area to squeeze two pairs of jeans out of, but the lengths meant that I could only get the main fronts and backs out whole for one pair. I could get the second pair out by piecing together a couple of legs lengthways and trying to make horizontal knee seams look like a trendy feature.
Alternatively, the second set of fronts and backs would come out whole if I cut them on the cross grain. My gut instinct is that maybe denim is a directional enough material that weird stuff would happen if I tried this. Am I right? Is it crazy talk? Or would it work?
Any advice/experience gratefully received, otherwise I'll start thinking how to make flat-felled knee seams look intentional. :D
(It's a 10 or 11 oz non-stretch denim, for what it's worth.)
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I think it would probably work OK but it would look different. Unless it's stretch denim it shouldn't behave any differently whichever way it's used.
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If you give the fabric a good pull in both directions, does it have the same amount of give? If so, it shouldn't matter much which way you cut them. Because denim is a twill weave, the diagonal appearance of the threads would lean the opposite way of normal. It would not be obvious, but it may look odd to the subconscious mind. And if you like to wear them to tatters, the usual threads that run across the holes would run up and down instead.
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I did split knees on rhe back leg of a heavish cotton. I split them diagonally.
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Woven fabric always have a bit more give widthways than lengthways even if it's non stretch.
I suspect that with a close fitting garment like jeans that slight difference would be noticeable .
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A knee seam would be fine. In my day they were called loons or strides and the seam was a V shape. :D
Joking aside, that's how most leather trousers are made presumably to get the most out of each hide.
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I agree with @Ploshkin. IMO making jeans is a lot of work, I'd make one pair 'properly' then maybe shorts, or cropped ones with a join at the knee.
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I too agree with @Ploshkin Jeans are generally close fitting and even minimal loss of widthways stretch/give will be noticable. If you go down the cutting sideways option cut generous seam allowances.
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Cheers all!
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I would also expect the knees and such to bag more quickly when worn if cut on the crossgrain.
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(I could be wrong...) Doesn't denim shrink more in the length than width? If you turn it cross grain they could be a tight fit after washing - my jeans are shorter after washing, usually for several washes.
But I would try it :)
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I'm late to the conversation, but Named clothing have a pattern for jeans with a knee seam, Palo jeans from their Breaking the Pattern book. So a knee seam might look very trendy.
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Just a quick update, they're done! (and apparently the same colour as the door 0_0)
(https://i.ibb.co/Jc72VSM/IMG-0272.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sgwQnXM)
(https://i.ibb.co/wrggYwR/IMG-0273.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DgWWL8t)
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They look good - orange trousers and orange doors 0_0
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They look great - well done!
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Good job, they look really good :) Are they a Thread Theory pattern?
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@snoozi soozi Yep, they're Thread Theory's Fulford pattern. With additional horizontal seams obviously!
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I like how you matched the stitching to the architrave. 0_0
Great jeans!
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I am old enough to remember when knee seams in jeans were a thing, frequently V-shaped! Perfectly normal design decision to me!
Good job 0_0
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Your jeans look fantastic. Well done. :loveit:
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They look great and Orange is The New Black!
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Great job, well done!