The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Popeye09 on September 11, 2019, 00:03:02 AM

Title: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Popeye09 on September 11, 2019, 00:03:02 AM
Let's say for sake of argument that I had a couple of denim remnants that had enough surface area to squeeze two pairs of jeans out of, but the lengths meant that I could only get the main fronts and backs out whole for one pair. I could get the second pair out by piecing together a couple of legs lengthways and trying to make horizontal knee seams look like a trendy feature.

Alternatively, the second set of fronts and backs would come out whole if I cut them on the cross grain. My gut instinct is that maybe denim is a directional enough material that weird stuff would happen if I tried this. Am I right? Is it crazy talk? Or would it work?

Any advice/experience gratefully received, otherwise I'll start thinking how to make flat-felled knee seams look intentional. :D

(It's a 10 or 11 oz non-stretch denim, for what it's worth.)
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Greybird on September 11, 2019, 00:06:34 AM
I think it would probably work OK but it would look different. Unless it's stretch denim it shouldn't behave any differently whichever way it's used.
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: WendyW on September 11, 2019, 01:07:46 AM
If you give the fabric a good pull in both directions, does it have the same amount of give? If so, it shouldn't matter much which way you cut them. Because denim is a twill weave, the diagonal appearance of the threads would lean the opposite way of normal. It would not be obvious, but it may look odd to the subconscious mind. And if you like to wear them to tatters, the usual threads that run across the holes would run up and down instead.
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: jintie on September 11, 2019, 06:10:11 AM
I did split knees on rhe back leg of a heavish cotton. I split them diagonally.
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Ploshkin on September 11, 2019, 07:11:20 AM
Woven fabric always have a bit more give widthways than lengthways even if it's non stretch.
I suspect that with a close fitting garment like jeans that slight difference would be noticeable .
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: wrenkins on September 11, 2019, 07:53:02 AM
A knee seam would be fine. In my day they were called loons or strides and the seam was a V shape.  :D
Joking aside, that's how most leather trousers are made presumably to get the most out of each hide.
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Lachica on September 11, 2019, 10:48:28 AM
I agree with @Ploshkin. IMO making jeans is a lot of work, I'd make one pair 'properly' then maybe shorts, or cropped ones with a join at the knee.
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: BrendaP on September 11, 2019, 11:42:38 AM
I too agree with @Ploshkin   Jeans are generally close fitting and even minimal loss of widthways stretch/give will be noticable.  If you go down the cutting sideways option cut generous seam allowances.
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Popeye09 on September 11, 2019, 22:06:03 PM
Cheers all!
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Esme866 on September 11, 2019, 23:33:16 PM
I would also expect the knees and such to bag more quickly when worn if cut on the crossgrain.
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: aprilla on September 12, 2019, 00:04:29 AM
(I could be wrong...) Doesn't denim shrink more in the length than width? If you turn it cross grain they could be a tight fit after washing - my jeans are shorter after washing, usually for several washes.
But I would try it :)
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: ckj514 on September 23, 2019, 19:58:28 PM
I'm late to the conversation, but Named clothing have a pattern for jeans with a knee seam, Palo jeans from their Breaking the Pattern book. So a knee seam might look very trendy.
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Popeye09 on November 14, 2019, 10:45:19 AM
Just a quick update, they're done! (and apparently the same colour as the door  0_0)

(https://i.ibb.co/Jc72VSM/IMG-0272.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sgwQnXM)
(https://i.ibb.co/wrggYwR/IMG-0273.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DgWWL8t)
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 14, 2019, 10:59:48 AM
They look good - orange trousers and orange doors  0_0
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Greybird on November 14, 2019, 12:40:36 PM
They look great - well done!
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: snoozi soozi on November 14, 2019, 13:27:18 PM
Good job, they look really good  :) Are they a Thread Theory pattern?
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Popeye09 on November 14, 2019, 18:38:10 PM
@snoozi soozi  Yep, they're Thread Theory's Fulford pattern. With additional horizontal seams obviously!
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: wrenkins on November 15, 2019, 19:17:28 PM
I like how you matched the stitching to the architrave.  0_0

Great jeans!
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: HenriettaMaria on November 16, 2019, 14:28:44 PM
I am old enough to remember when knee seams in jeans were a thing, frequently V-shaped!  Perfectly normal design decision to me!

Good job  0_0
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Kenora on November 16, 2019, 18:34:48 PM
Your jeans look fantastic. Well done.  :loveit:
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Catllar on November 16, 2019, 19:45:25 PM
They look great and Orange is The New Black!
Title: Re: Cross grain jeans?
Post by: Fabric Lover on November 18, 2019, 09:40:15 AM
Great job, well done!