The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Sonatine on April 16, 2019, 11:03:53 AM
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I'm currently making a late Edwardian style riding habit using this habit from the V&A (http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O16775/riding-habit-redfern-john/) as my main reference.
I tried making a pattern from my exisitng apron but just couldn't get it to work. Then I bought a modern apron pattern from America but the knee shaping would need so much adjustment to fit me that I can't face it yet. So now I'm using this pattern (https://irishtorin.beepworld.de/files/schnittmuster/rock6.jpg) from a 1912 ladies tailoring guide. It's the first time I've ever drafted something from instructions so it's been a bit of a learning curve. It's obviously not aimed at novices so the drafting instructions are brief and there are no instructions for making it up. I'm hoping that I can work it out from the aprons I've seen and the two diagrams on the pattern. I've currently got one pice fully drawn and the other is waiting to have the curves drawn in over the construction lines.
For the jacket I'm using B6608 (https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/b6608-misses-costume-pattern#.XLWnSOcp-0W) but without any of the trim or the faux button cuffs. I'll also remove the bottom centre front button and redraw it to have a cutaway front. I'd like to reduce the sleeve fullness and change the back to have double vents but that might be too complicated for me to manage.
The (hopefully) wearable toile will be made from a pair of blue cotton curtains I found in a charity shop and then if it works well enough I'll make it again in a more correct heavyweight wool.
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That looks like a fabulous project. I am very much looking forward to see you progressing with it.
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First stumble - I can't work out which size to cut from the jacket pattern. I can't find the finished waist size anywhere but the finished bust has 3.5" ease compared to the pattern sizing. I'm between sizes anyway, so that would mean cutting two sizes smaller than I would have expected. Cutting this smaller size would give 2" of ease at the bust which seems fine to me. But then the waist is an inch smaller than my waist going by the printed sizes, without a finished measurement to know how much ease it has. I will wear a corset whenever I wear this habit so I don't need any ease for comfort so as long as it has at least 1.5" of ease built in I'd be ok, and don't see that it would have less than that.
Do I go for the smaller size? I can't decide!
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The tissue pattern will probably have finished measurements printed on it...and will also probably have way too much ease. For wearing over a corset you don't normally allow ease at all, but fit directly to your corseted measurements, or it will just flop about and look baggy in any case.
For future reference, Truly Victorian patterns are more historically accurate, and designed for corsets [that one most likely isn't so be prepared for much faffing about!]
The double vents shouldn't be tricky as there are already seams where you want them, just add in extra seam allowance below the waist to play with.
Fun project!
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Oh wow! The very best of luck with it! Something I always wanted to have a go at, but only ever managed a waistcoat! As an ex-side saddle rider I had to have mine made to measure by a company in Tunbridge Wells - as I am only 5' tall and very, very short in the torso! It was beautiful. I did really hanker after one of the older ones (1920's) , but they would not have fitted!
I'm secretly envious as I am unable to ride at the moment due to medication turning me into a haemophiliac, and I have to watch other people ride my horse!
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Some of the clothes they wore early last century were so stylish weren't they? Those jackets are fabulous, it makes me half wish I could ride.
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@Francesca Ideally I would, but I don't have enough time, energy or fabric haha!
@DementedFairy I love Truly Victorian patterns (my 1880s habit is one of theirs) and I'd much rather have used one than the costumey one I ended up with but nothing was the shape I was looking for. I need to research what kind of corsets women in the 1910s rode in as the habits don't have the severe fitted over a corset look the ones from a few decades earlier had. The finished measurements on the tissue are only there for the bust not the waist, that's the issue I'm having.
@KayK I'm a new side saddle convert but I love it! I don't have my own horse but I'm lucky to be able to get to a riding school that's brilliant for side saddle every month or so. I hope you can get back to riding soon!
I think I'm going to go for the smaller size, if it's too snug anywhere there's plenty of seam allowance to let out.
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The finished measurements on the tissue are only there for the bust not the waist, that's the issue I'm having.
Is the waistline marked on the pattern? Or is it easy to work out where it should be and draw it on? If so, it shouldn’t be too difficult to measure the pieces along the line and subtract the seam allowances. That should give you the finished waist measurement.
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IIRC the waist on this was a little boxy because it is made for and from modern measurements.
But, you will ALWAYS have to tailor anything when you use stays. Even antique patterns that allow for the waist to be much smaller, still often added some ease or used an average measurement to the pattern that did not always correlate to the stays' measurement. An example of this is a Harper's Bazar one I have. It is an equivalent to a size 12, B 34 W 22 (moden is B34, W 24.5), none of which add the ease to the pattern (Bazar was about half in inch if I remember right, compared to the 5 or 6" of modern patterns). I made a replica for a museum and the mannequin was not "standard" even to the era...the mannequin was set to a lady's measurement who owned the particular exhibit, and her waist was 19". Another I made had the waist being 2" larger then the antique pattern I used...both were with stays. Also why so many of the earlier fashions had darts and princess lines featured heavily: it is far easier to alter an antique pattern or garment then a modern one.
Long story to say you certainly need to make a mock up, try it on with the stays and then pinch the waist out to what it needs to be.
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Following this project with interest! I'm a rider myself and have wanted a side saddle for years. Sadly, being in Australia I will have to get a custom made one, and I was saving for one when my older horse had to be retired. My young horse is still very green, but hoping to have a side saddle made for him in the next couple of years!
I have a half-finished modern habit that I really should get around to finishing. I've always wanted to make a vintage one, but assumed I'd never have anywhere to wear it (only the odd show offers side saddle classes, even fewer offer costume classes). At some point I'll just do it anyway for the joy of it!
I have, however, made a few vintage inspired costumes before. You'll really need to be prepared to toile the jacket multiple times I've found! Especially when you're wanting to fit something over a corset.
Will this pattern help you for the skirt?
https://reconstructinghistory.com/product/rh1016-1910s-standard-riding-skirt/
They also have an edwardian riding jacket pattern, if the Butterick doesn't fit your needs;
https://reconstructinghistory.com/product/rh1012-ladies-1910s-darted-riding-jacket/
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Maybe a corset like this one? (http://www.vam.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0004/186169/2010ee8104_tango-corset.jpg)
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or this?
(https://i.etsystatic.com/6885784/r/il/164b47/1806589443/il_794xN.1806589443_mr2r.jpg)
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Looks like a Liberty Bodice!
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Can I ask a stupid question, after having read the V&A article with interest.
How can the outfit have been made in 1912 when John Redfern, the maker, died in 1895 ???
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@DementedFairy that first one is just like the ones my grandmother had. I remember trailing after her into the shop and having to sit on a chair whilst she went into a cubicle to be measured up for it. Took ages.
@Sonatine I am in awe of your ambitious sewing!
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I've found the riding jackets from the Thornton's book. One is fitted but there's also one called 'the new riding jacket' which is double breasted with a semi-fitted waist. Neither has a cutaway front though. I'm now trying to source the entire book as it has so many different kinds of apron / skirt but I've only managed to find a handful of them online even though it's out of copyright. There's a copy on ebay but it's £170.
I made up a scale model of the apron from paper and I can't work out how it goes together so it might be on hold until I can find instructions or a better design. One of the foot loops is marked on a piece that doesn't go anywhere near either foot the way I've put it together!
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Sonatine, not knowing where you live, have you tried what is known as The County Library, normally in the county town, and they should have hidden away probably down in a basement somewhere - books and this is called County Reserve. These consist of books that have rarely been out and not used and or requested, and you should be able to find a book you want and take it out on loan. My county is Buckinghamshire and I was amazed when I went down into the depths, was allowed to look at the section I wanted - of course sewing related - and came home with about 10-12 books on loan. Some of the books were the last copy in the county, and of course there is the inter library loans - so sometimes these books are lent to other libraries.
You never know you might find something along the lines of what you are looking for.
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more to add...your pattern is a bit more complicated (!!) than the French drawing. There is a seam that joins S-J and 5-3, match the double notches...I'm not exactly sure where the seam ends but it starts at the waist and ends around pt. 3 which should match your right knee dart.
You can see this long seam in the drawing on the pattern, the left one, sitting in the saddle.
The drawings are useful...shows you'll probably add a waistband. Also shows that button placement is sort of up to you!
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@bessc thank you! I'd got most of it worked out but the left foot loop had me stumped until my mum pointed out that it goes around the heel of your boot, not under the ball of the foot like the right one. Modern aprons don't have left foot loops because they're so much shorter so it was really confusing me! There's also a strange sling of fabric that goes under your thigh that isn't present on newer aprons and isn't mentioned on the drafting instructions, but it seems to button from the three dashes at 20-21 back under the skirt to the three buttons between E and G, fastening on the inside. I'm glad you also think the other buttons are marked wrong, that was another point of confusion.
Now that I finally understand it I'm hoping to get the apron cut tonight and sewn tomorrow. I have very little ability to visualise things or see how flat shapes become 3D objects so this project is making my brain hurt!
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gotta say this is like crossword puzzles, once you start you can't quit!
I realize I'm wrong about adjusting size...you custom draft this so you don't need to adjust!
what are the main measurement lines? I'm pretty sure A-B is finished length...meaning waist to left boot heel (on the saddle!). What exactly is A-C and 1-3??
I agree the three buttons are underneath. I think the "sling" bit might be to preserve a lady's modesty and prevent the skirt from flying up.
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Another book, check out Chapter 5 if you are making a riding habit.
Link removed by moderator as deemed unsafe by my browser, further checking revealed it to be a domain on sale
Love the details...the tailor would pad the knee of your riding skirt if necessary so you didn't look too skinny! Not exactly my problem, but good to know.
Please adhere to the rules you agreed with when you signed up. You need to have at least 25 posts before you are allowed to post links.
Thank you
Manuela
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@bessc it's so interesting isn't it! I've got a 1920s / 30s apron that is constructed in a similar way to the one that I'm attempting to draft, I'll try to get some photos of it for comparison. That one fits my right knee perfectly (It's 18" waist to knee) but comes up really short once I'm mounted. This also means it's short when it's buttoned up for walking and only just goes past my knees.
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I've made a first mock up of the apron, only the top section to check the fit of the darts. The waist shaping / size is good, but if it's positioned correctly at the waist then the knee dart is halfway along my thigh and if it's positioned correctly round my knee then the waist is miles away from my waist. There's also not enough fabric across the width of the skirt.
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So then I borrowed a friend who is 6 inches shorter than me and it looked a lot better. I think she's much closer in height to the average Edwardian lady!
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To move forward I need to redraft the pattern from my waist to knee measurement to get that dart the right length. I won't have access to a big enough space to draft for a while now so this project will have to go on hold. I've found a possible source for a modern apron pattern so I might make a modern habit in the meantime.
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Progress!
I've had a modern apron pattern drafted to my measurements by a very kind lady and I made it up today. It went together really easily and it seems like it fits perfectly, but I won't know for sure until I can try it on when I'm riding. It still needs buttonholes and buttons but here's a WIP pic:
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The fabric is a very dark navy wool melton, it looks black to me in artificial lighting but it's definitely navy in the sunlight. It's really lovely to work with.
I'm trying to copy my existing cutaway jacket now to make a pattern for the matching jacket, it doesn't have any darts and I have commercial patterns to use for the collar and lapels if necessary so I think it should be doable.
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This morning I put together a Franken-habit!
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It's entirely not correct going by Side Saddle Association rules as the jacket must always match the apron, but I think it all works together and it looks smart enough for general riding in. It doesn't show up very well in the photo but the tie has tiny red spots that match the red overcheck on the tweed. I'm still going to work on a jacket in the navy melton asap though to be more correct! It's just difficult when there are no readily available commercial patterns for this style and I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed with the multiple patterns I've tried adapting / drafting.
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@Sonatine that is beautiful! A lovely piece of work, you should be very proud of yourself.
Jessie
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Just to clarify, I only made the apron! The lovely jacket came from ebay but it's the style I'm hoping to copy
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It's still a lovely outfit! ;)
Jessie
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The jacket is turning out to be a bit of a nightmare. I'm struggling to adapt any of the commericial patterns I've bought because they're too different and I can't get to grips with making a pattern from my existing jacket (the tweed one in the picture) as it's so structured.
Does anyone know of a pattern I could adapt? It needs a notched collar and the potential to have double rear vents. Ideally a fairly fitted silhouette with two piece sleeves. I feel like I've searched everywhere with no luck!
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Would either of these Claire Schaeffer patterns be any good?
https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v8333
https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v9099
There’s also this Burda pattern that might adaptable to make double back vents.
https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/bd6746-misses-blazer-jacket#.XNgdcBDTWf1
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@StitchinTime I have V8333 but I cut it a few years ago so it would need a bit of tweaking to fit. I love the shape of it, I'm not sure why I'd decided it wouldn't work because it looks so close to what I'm aiming for. I'll get it out and have another look, but if not the other vogue one looks like a definite possibility too. Thank you!
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I made a Side-saddle habit this time last year. Strictly for Au Concors classes, so not to SSA specs.
I got the skirt pattern from www.vena cava. Good site for historical patterns.
The top was a butterick pattern.
Prior Attire is a site that does historical and side-saddle clothing, including riding corsets.....
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I've made this Suitability "Hunt Coat" - http://www.suitability.com/product_p/5004.htm (http://www.suitability.com/product_p/5004.htm)
Which sadly appears to be discontinued. She also does a dressage jacket - http://www.suitability.com/product_p/5850.htm (http://www.suitability.com/product_p/5850.htm)
however it has a waist seam, I don't think it would be overly difficult to cut it all in one. It apparently does have an option for a side saddle cutaway, however looks like it only has a centre back vent - wouldn't be difficult to make them side back vents.
The Hunt coat I made went together nicely, I did make a toile and had to make a couple of alterations - namely, the collar came up small so I added about 1.5cm all around, and it was a bit short so I lengthened it (and lengthened it again to make the side saddle version which has been waiting for the lining to be sewn in for around 5 years >< )
Even better if you could find a copy of the hunt coat pattern kicking around on ebay or somewhere!
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@Tiggy I love the concours costumes but I'd never have the chance to wear one, I have made a dark grey 1880s habit though probably using the same patterns as you! My 'everyday' riding corset is from Prior Attire but it's moderinised with elastic bust and hip inserts. I'm starting to get into corsetry so once I've made a few simple corsets I'm going to have a go at making a more historically accurate Edwardian riding corset if I can find any info on them. I can't wait for Izabela (who runs Prior Attire) to publish her ladies riding-wear book!
@elisep I like the look of the Suitability patterns but they're so expensive to get hold of in the UK. I don't know where I got the information that the jacket needs to have double vents from, re-reading the SSA guidelines there's nothing about it at all so a single vent should be fine if needs be. I'll keep searching for the suitability patterns second hand, the hunt coat has exactly the lines I'm looking for.
I'm also now attempting to find a piece of tweed to match my existing jacket as closely as possible so that I can make an apron for it, but it's turning out to be pretty difficult to get close to the same herringbone / colour / overcheck combo. I wish I'd gone for keeper's tweed instead!
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I made a Suitability hunt coat for my daughter out of tweed. She was at that awkward stage where everything was the same measurement. It just stuck out in different places..... 12 year olds! I cheated, I didn’t make proper welt pockets, I just sewed the pocket flap on to look like pockets. (She only stuffed gloves in them anyway). It did the job though.
I make her astride concors outfits now.
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Going further back historically for my next attempt...
A pattern for a full habit (jacket, skirt, trousers) plus riding corset from an 1891 French fashion magazine. Pieces for multiple patterns are on top of each other to be traced off for use - looking at it makes my eyes swim! First job is to get the pattern sheet printed and then translate the instructions. The corset appears to have a 21 inch waist and the habit jacket is 23 inch waist and 38 inch bust. I'm going to take my waist in a bit with the corset but I won't reach anywhere near the size it's drafted at and I'll pad the bust a bit but again won't reach the original size so I'll have to see how far I can alter the pattern without losing too much of the silhouette. It's certainly very dramatic in the illustrations.
It calls for jersey for the trousers - from a quick initial google it seems like this used to be a heavier woolen cloth, does anyone know what it's likely to mean / where I could source it from nowadays?
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Somewhere, on the Prior Attire website, is a list of suppliers used by them to source their fabrics. I’m sure that they would answer any questions you have because they seem to be very nice.
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The mods seem to hate me when I post links, so you'll have to look this up yourself. ;)
From the V&A:
" By the 1870s, male undershirts or vests made from knitted fabric of wool, cotton or wool blended with silk were being worn for sports. Called 'jerseys', they were widely adopted by athletes. As demand grew, companies such as John Smedley – which had started producing knitted garments in Derbyshire in the early 19th century – shifted their focus from knitted underwear to outerwear. Machine-knitting developments made such items both more affordable and more widely available."
you can find (online) a really good visual example of this fabric, used for sturdy women's outerwear, in a dress at the Metropolitan Museum in NYC. search for "walking dress C.I.40.88.9a–c". The dress is red and black, dated 1899-1900.
there is also an excellent period illustration to be found (online ;)) in the Internet Book Archive Image.
Image from page 8 of "Illustrated fashion catalogue : summer, 1890" (1890)
Identifier: illustratedfashi00bloo
Title: Illustrated fashion catalogue : summer, 1890
Year: 1890 (1890s)
Authors: Bloomingdale's (Firm)
The fabric is like a very tightly knit, fairly bulky, sweater knit. Usually wool. I doubt if I'd use something similar today. I'd use, instead, something like a modern stretch twill.
just to add, this would be sooo much easier if I could just post the link. Otherwise I need to post a month worth of my local weather so I can up my post count to be legit. Are you all really interested in hearing my weather? Sunny today. :pin:
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Nothing personal @bessc - it's in the membership agreement. (https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,4.0.html#new)
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a really good modern fabric to use is stretch bengaline...it has a rib to it, like the original wool jersey.
look at old football jerseys, bathing costumes, bicycling bloomers, and similar sportswear from turn of the century.
still sunny here. :pin:
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Great alternative use of the pin icon, seeing as we are lacking weather icons, @bessc .
If you want to increase your post count, perhaps you could start a hello thread in the "hi, I'm new (https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/board,5.0.html)" board and post daily (or hourly :devil:) weather reports or just say hello to some of the other newbies - I'm sure you could reach 25 posts quite quickly.
Usually weather/daily activity posts appear in The Cafe, but that is only accessible to subscribers.
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The cafe is available to all members, not just subscribers. You just have to be logged in to see it, so that we all have a modicum of privacy.
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Sorry for the misinformation @Acorn and @bessc - I knew the cafe was restricted somehow but the exact details eluded me.
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@bessc thank you so much, those sources are wonderful! I hope you don't mind but I've linked them below, both for my own future reference and in case they're helpful to anyone else who reads this thread.
Wool wallking dress (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/106496)
Jersey bodices in 1890 catalogue (https://archive.org/details/illustratedfashi00bloo/page/n7)
For this one I'd like to aim to be as historically accurate as I can so I'm going to try making a pair of trousers from wool jersey. I've found a heavy navy wool knit online that seems to be the closest modern equivalent to the period fabric and I only need 1.5m so I'm going to give it a go.
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Made a start on the corset today - traced the pattern, then used it to make a paper toile. It has the most incredible shape, even just made out of paper, and the pattern is beautifully drafted. It was difficult to get a photo but this gives an idea:
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It's a good starting point to work on the alterations before the first fabric mock up. I can see where most of the excess bust space is and which pieces will be able to have some taken out. I think the waist should be ok as long as I have a few inches of lacing gap at the back, which means it definitely needs to be taken in a considerable amount at the bust, even if I pad it!
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Altering a corset is hard!
I've tried doing some alterations on the flat pattern pieces, but when I tape them back together the waist line is about 1/8th - 1/4 inch off at each seam. The reasoning behind doing them flat was to be able to take different amounts off each piece to retain the shape of the panels - there's one piece where there's room to take an inch off and it joins to a panel where I can only take 1/4 inch and if I tried to do this on a fabric mock up with a seam I don't know how it would be possible to get it uneven like this. I know the waist discrepancy has happened because the reductions have altered the curves at the sides of the pieces slightly, but I have no idea how to sort it... maybe it will be best to make a mock up with these initial alterations and just see how much of an issue it is with fabric rather than paper / how it sits on the body?
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Corset mock up 1 is complete!
I ended up taking too much off the bust so some of the original pieces need to go back in for the next version. It has hardly any hip spring which is strange for a corset of this era and also meant it wouldn't lace properly and there wasn't any waist reduction. The bust is really beautifully drafted though, I love the shape there. It's also quite lopsided, but I don't know if that's due to my wonky sewing, my wonky body, or a bit of both! Pictures:
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So the next step is to make another mock up (with a busk this time, I severely regretted my laziness when it came to trying this one on) with the bust closer to the orignal and some added width at the hips to hopefully get a better silhouette.
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What a fabulous shape...a great fit. Look forward to seeing the finished article.
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I know it is only a mock up, but I really like the fabric you used. Could you use an open ended zip on future mock ups to make it easier to get into, rather than having to use a busk?
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Looks lovely!
Jessie
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Hmmmm!!!
I think it means that John Redfern designed riding habit but clearly someone else was the maker. Not very clear though on the blurb.
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The corset is finally finished!
This version has an increased hip spring from the mock up which means that I can get a waist reduction of just under 2 inches. I'm really happy with it and I love the silhouette.
Photos aren't the best but they're all I can get for now.
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Hopefully I'll be able to ride in it in a few weeks time but it needs to be worn in slowly before that.
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That’s a brilliant piece of corsetry. :loveit:
Well done on persevering to get to your finished article. Looks very authentic and I guess it’s probably pretty uncomfortable to wear for any length of time. You can certainly understand why fashion had to evolve.
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Thanks @WildAtlanticWay and it's actually really comfortable! Sometimes I get a bit achy after wearing a corset for a few hours from not being able to slouch but that's because of my poor everyday posture. The slow breaking in is mainly to let the coutil and synthetic whalebone mould to the wearer's body shape while they're warm without suddenly over-stressing the seams or making the bones warp.
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Working on the bodice, and I've hit a few problems.
There are little to no markings on the pattern. It has curved, two piece sleeves - where does the straight grain go? I'm vaguely aware that getting a mismatch of grainline on the two pieces could mean the sleeve twists(?) so it's important to get it right, but I can't work it out and haven't managed to find any information online yet.
The lining is also confusing. Most extant garments from the period are flatlined but the instructions (if my translating skills haven't let me down) mention lining twice. Once before any sewing: "line the fronts, the collar, and the sleeves up to the vents" which seems like it might actually be referring to interfacing of some sort? And then after construction: "equip the bodice with a satin lining up to the waist". My gut instinct would be that this is too modern but these are the original instructions so it must be correct, unless I'm interpreting them incorrectly. Does anyone have any ideas?
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You have done a beautiful job on the corset, I didn’t know they had to be worn in.
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Your corset Sonatine looks fantastic - very well done. Hope you have enjoyed making this, and you are sensible in wearing this in, as once on for real with all the other garments and up on a horse you need to be comfortable and not have pieces of corsetry/boning digging into you.
With regards to the instructions for the other parts, I would think you are right about the lining referring to interlining - this is to help keep the fabric in shape and adds support. Then when the jacket is complete you can then add a nice silky/satin lining as this will slip on easily over other garments. You are doing an excellent job with this project so I do hope you are enjoying all the different processes. Don't forget your new friend 'the rolling pin' to help you set and flatten the bulky parts.
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Here's the bodice mock up. The fitting issues are nowhere near as bad as I expected, but it's thrown up a few more questions.
There's some excess fabric around the armscye, but I think this is probably necessary for freedom of movement so I'm reluctant to do too much alteration here.
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It's also really wanting to be open from the waist down. I initially thought this was because it's too small at the hips but on the pattern piece the centre front edge is curved outwards. I can't tell from the illustration because she has her hands in front of her just below the waist, and there's no mention of this either way in the instructions. I don't know whether to leave it open below the waist or try to redraft the front edge to be straight. It also means it's trying to open at the neck when it's definitely meant to be fully buttoned up with a high collar. Apologies for the poor photo, it was difficult to hold it closed!
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Im in awe of your skill ... also your tiny waist ... Or do you have great big gorilla shoulders???
(no offence intended)
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Thanks @Iminei haha! It's a combination of a small-ish natural waist corseted down 2" and the slightly full sleeves making the shoulders look bigger.
I let the hips out 2" overall at the side seam and got another 1/2" at the front darts. Then I added some snaps and tried it on again and it looks like it's actually the lower ribs and waist that are a bit too small so I need to find somewhere to let them out - I'm not sure how much more I can get out of the darts. But it definitely seems like it is meant to be fastened all the way to the lower edge and it was just the poor fit stopping it earlier. (slightly silly pose in the photo - the curved sleeves need bent elbows!)
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The 1891 habit is almost finished - I wore it out to an event in September but I see so much wrong with it in the photos that I'm waiting until I can get new photos of it once it's altered a bit before I post any here.
I'm attempting a full modern habit now having finally got hold of the only pattern commercially available for a riding jacket. Already confused as it seems to have 9 inches of ease at the waist! There aren't any finished garment measurements on the pattern so maybe I measured it wrong. It's hard to make a mock up when you can't even work out which size to start from!
Edited to add, I've measued the bust and that comes out at 9 inches bigger than the body measurements too. That seems like a lot of ease for a fitted jacket?
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First mock up of the modern jacket is done and the fit wasn't terrible! That said, I did make it two sizes smaller than my body measurements because of the ridiculous ease.
The shoulders and bust fit really well. The body needs lengthening by 1.5in above the waist and 2in below the waist which is all I'm going to change for the next mock up. Then the cutaway front needs to start higher and flare out wider, and some excess fabric needs pinching out from the underbust and waist area but I don't think I can sort that until the length is correct.
(the sleeves do fit, it just looks strange because of having to take the photo myself!)
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Looking good!
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Mock up number two started out looking completely shapeless and far worse than the previous attempt despite now being the correct length:
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But with some seams ripped up to the waist to accomodate my hips and some of the excess pinched out of the back waist it's starting to look a bit better:
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So now mock up number three is underway (I've never had to do multiple mock ups for one project before!) to try out these adjustments and then hopefully I can start on the real thing.
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Mock up number three and it's getting better!
It had a lot of hip flare to the point of almost having a peplum, so in this photo the excess is pinned out on the right side as you look at it, with the original shape on the left side:
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I think the fit and shape is pretty much there now :D
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It looks fab, you must have the patience of a saint ><
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Finally posting pics of the 1889 habit!
Thanks to a very kind friend I got to ride at a show at the weekend, and was joint 1st in the period costume class :D
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And a close up of the bodice back because it isn't visible in any of the photos.
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That's lovely @Sonatine - the horse too!
Well done!
Jessie
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That looks like a very well deserved first place! Congratulations! 0_0
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Exquisite
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That outfit is stunning - well done - just shows that determination and hard work pays off. Well done on coming joint first with the costume as well.
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Stunning Beautiful
And fully deserving of joint first for the costume.
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You look amazing! Congratulations! :toast: :toast:
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All the same from me too!!
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That's fabulous. Congratulations on a well deserved win. You look so elegant. Riding side saddle must feel very different to astride - did it take long to get used to it? And does the horse not mind the change in weight loading?
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Thanks for all of the kind words, I'm really happy with how it turned out!
@Lachica I started riding side saddle about 11 months ago and loved it so much that I stopped riding astride almost immediately. It does feel different but mostly it feels much more secure. It's also the only time I get to look and feel elegant haha!
With a side saddle that fits well and a balanced rider the weight should be fairly even on the horse's back, with a slight increase on the left side where the rider's right leg sits.
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@Sonatine that's interesting. I'm guessing you can't use any leg pressure to control the horse. I believe side saddle was very common in previous centuries so it can't be all that difficult for animal or human. (I don't mean that in a disparaging way: I never learnt to ride but one of my daughters was very keen for a while) perhaps it evolved to suit petite ladies on large horses. Off to Google that theory!
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Congratulations @Sonatine a worthy winner :toast: The habit looks wonderful :)
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All your hard work paid off, Sonatine. The riding habit is a triumph - literally!
It's interesting that you feel more secure riding side-saddle as it looks more precarious than riding astride. It also looks more elegant, certainly in your outfit.
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@Lachica I think it was more that it was considered unseemly for ladies to be astride anything!
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I could talk (well write) about the history of side saddle for hours but I'll try to keep this brief haha!
Originally ladies rode facing completely to the side on a planchette. They had no control of the horse so had to be led by a man, and it wasn't possible to go any faster than a walk.
Then a pommel called the fixed head was added which allowed the ladies to face forwards with their right leg hooked over the pommel, and to ride independently.
In the 1830s a second pommel called the leaping head was added. This sits over the left thigh and gives greater security which means it's possible to gallop and jump. This meant Victorian ladies could ride fast across country with the hunt while still looking elegant.
The two pommels are hidden by the apron / skirt which is why there is the illusion of being balanced somewhat precariously. I've attached a photo from an early lesson which shows how it works!
Eventually I'd love to have a collection of habits from the 1700s through to the 1920s...
The left leg is used as if riding astride and a whip is carried in the right hand and used as if it is the right leg. Most horses adjust to it fairly quickly :)
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Thanks @Sonatine you've explained it well, and the photo helps a lot. I can see why the habit is used, it does look more elegant. I had wondered whether a whip was used in lieu of the right leg. You must have very good balance.
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Very interesting, thanks. The photo showing the side saddle in use makes it all clearer. Nonetheless, galloping and jumping sound scary!
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Thank you, that photo makes it all so clear. I didn't realise there was a second pommel for the left leg to brace against.