Thank you for this site @Greybird 

I spent ages looking at the different 3" pencil pleat tapes! I had issues with made to measure curtains last summer which were eventually returned as (among other things) they were wider than ordered and even when pulled up tightly were too wide for my track. I then ordered from M&S and their tape (Rufflette) had much wider spaces between the hook pockets than the other ones had, so when hung they fell just right without too much 'training'.

I notice that cheaper tapes stretch more as you sew them on.

I have a couple of suitable pieces, may have a look at the pattern for one of them this afternoon.

I never watch daytime TV so that's why I won't have watched it. I think I did see a trailer but it looked to be all craft stuff which I don't do.

I've heard of it but never watched it.

I've had issues as you describe @mudcat with my 1000cpx but not all the time. I do the same as everyone is saying with the needle threads. I sometimes raise the presser foot to its highest and use the smaller screwdriver  to yank the threads forward a good long way. I then put my finger and thumb between the fabric as close as I can and pull it back in attempt to stop the ends tightening too much.

I'm wondering if the further you pull the needle threads out, the easier it is to remove the fabric? I've not had mine out for a couple of months as not needed it but will take note next time!

Beautiful @Iminei !

Welcome from me to @ckj514 !

About the plastic vs metal in machines, it's not the bodywork that's the issue but the chassis/frame on which the machine is built.  If the G-shaped components between the feed dogs, up through the right-hand pillar, across the top and down to the needle is capable of flexing then the machine won't work well.  Cheapish machines have nylon chassis, which is why they're neither use nor ornament.  I have this on good authority from the man at the Brother stand at K&S Ally Pally, and he should know!

Plastic body shells don't affect performance because they're not structural.  BUT, and it's a big but, you must NEVER leave them for prolonged periods in direct sunlight otherwise they will be come brittle and eventually snap or crack. I've had that happen with the spool pin of mine, which sits directly below the aperture where the carry handle passes through the hard case to the outside.  I now store the pressing cloth over that to keep the light out completely.

Not sure about the chassis of the computerised one I don't like or use, but the model that @SkoutSews and I have has a metal chassis. I think that is another reason why my ancient (1989) Brother 730D 3 thread overlock which I actually think was made by Viking Husqvarna (seen identical model in US with Husky badge) sounds and usually performs better than the Brother 2104 4 thread I bought as a back up a couple of years ago. The old one's chassis is metal.