The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Patterns Discussion => Topic started by: Acorn on November 09, 2017, 10:24:35 AM

Title: Coat Pattern
Post by: Acorn on November 09, 2017, 10:24:35 AM
I had to order half a metre of softshell fleece from myfabrics.co.uk yesterday - they were the only place with the colourway I need to make a hat for my Mum.

Anyway, that meant £5.95 delivery, which was clearly terrible with just half a metre of fabric... so, to cut a long story short, I seem to have ordered three metres of coat fabric, and three metres of lining to go with it.

(https://media.fabfab.net/images/products/popup/81_poso_f17_022.jpg)

(https://media.fabfab.net/images/products/popup/888_100008_0040.jpg)

The problem now is that I can't find a pattern that works for me.  I want something fairly shapeless (like me!), three quarter length, and with a hood (and 'generous' sizing!)  That hood seems to be causing problems.  My first port of call is always Style Arc, but they have nothing.

Has anyone seen anything that sounds at all like that?  Or can anyone suggest somewhere for me to look? 
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Ellabella on November 09, 2017, 10:50:07 AM
I've just made Jalie 2680 (sorry can't do links on a tablet).

It's not as fitted as the drawing shows, my waist went west years ago and mine fitted fine without alteration.

It went together quickly and easily and has an option for a hood included.

It's not lined but that should not be too hard an addition.

I used soft shell fleece and did not need any interfacing at all.

I absolutely love your fabric combo Acorn, whatever pattern you choose I'm sure it will be a fab coat.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Francesca on November 09, 2017, 10:54:49 AM
Depending on how you feel about no instructions, I've always found Lekala to be the best for coat patterns. They fit well (though beware, their bodices can have a few inches less ease than expected and their sleeves can also be very wide! But as you get them custom-drafted to your own size you can adjust). The only problem with them is the instructions are rubbish. But I muddled through, and have successfully made two coats.

As for coats, how about these:

(https://i.imgur.com/Bvvxlc0l.jpg)

https://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/coats/pattern/4497#model


(https://i.imgur.com/7UHObROl.jpg)

https://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/coats/pattern/4383#model


(https://i.imgur.com/Y3FrivKl.jpg)

https://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/coats/pattern/5698#model


(https://i.imgur.com/OvKaaa6l.jpg)

https://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/coats/pattern/5477#model
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: toileandtrouble on November 09, 2017, 11:44:55 AM
Thanks for that  Francesca, they look like my sort of coat.  Acorn, p&p is my downfall too.  (obviously, you have to spend money to save money!)
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Lizzy777 on November 09, 2017, 13:38:01 PM
I bought this Simplicity pattern very recently. I got it from eBay as it was free p&p and half price
(which Simplicity is at present). It arrived quickly. I have bought from this buyer before who is on Amazon. I like free p&p on patterns!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Simplicity-1254-Misses-Leanne-Marshall-Easy-Lined-Coat-Jacket-Sewing-Pattern-/182740640496?var=&hash=item2a8c30e2f0

Haven't had chance to do anything with it yet. But would like a similar grey fabric as shown in the sketch.

https://www.simplicitynewlook.com/1254

I really like your fabric.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Kad on November 09, 2017, 16:14:26 PM
I made Simplicity 1067 this time last year. I made variant E with a hood, wrap front , usefully sized pockets and optional tie belt. It doesn't come with patterns for the lining but the coat is made up of very simple shapes so it's not difficult to sort a lining out.
The fabric requirements fit easily within your 3 metre limit, using between 2.0 and  2.1 metres for sizes 6 to 22 without the belt.
Hope this might help x
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 09, 2017, 16:29:42 PM
We really should have had a coat sewalong competition shouldn't we? 
Sorry, not got any pattern ideas, though I do have that Simplicity pattern, but not made it yet.  Lovely fabric and super lining!
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: UttaRetch on November 09, 2017, 17:55:16 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/5ZoUnY1.jpg)

Although the hooded version doesn't appear to have any closure, or

(https://i.imgur.com/yDVnRLV.jpg)

Found on sewessential (https://www.sewessential.co.uk/sewing-patterns/womens-sewing-patterns/womens-jackets-and-coats-sewing-patterns?brand=78&pattern_jacket_type=504).
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Lizzy777 on November 09, 2017, 18:51:32 PM
We really should have had a coat sewalong competition shouldn't we? 
Sorry, not got any pattern ideas, though I do have that Simplicity pattern, but not made it yet.  Lovely fabric and super lining!

That's a great idea!!
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Lizzy777 on November 09, 2017, 18:53:27 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/5ZoUnY1.jpg)

Although the hooded version doesn't appear to have any closure, or

(https://i.imgur.com/yDVnRLV.jpg)

Found on sewessential (https://www.sewessential.co.uk/sewing-patterns/womens-sewing-patterns/womens-jackets-and-coats-sewing-patterns?brand=78&pattern_jacket_type=504).

I bought those two as well, at the same time as the other one. Thought they were good patterns to get.  :)
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Francesca on November 09, 2017, 18:59:10 PM
I'd love an informal coat sewalong. I'll be starting mine next week. Anyone wanna make it?
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: UttaRetch on November 09, 2017, 19:09:49 PM
Alas no.  This will be my third year without having started on the coat that was supposed to replace

(https://i.imgur.com/kEuVJIx.jpg)

Vogue 8346 (https://www.sewessential.co.uk/misses-coat-vogue-sewing-pattern-8346).  Sigh
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Acorn on November 09, 2017, 19:27:47 PM
Ooh thank you - lots to think about there.

Simplicity 8467 seems to be the closest to what I'm looking for, but the hooded version seems not to be lined, and I would have to add some sort of closure.

I wondered about a duffel coat - remember the gorgeous one sewmuchmore made?  I'd have to grade out the Grainline one though, and I do seem to remember that it had rather a lot of pieces - I really want a fairly quick make or I won't get to wear it this winter!

If I have the fabric, pattern and some time at the right time I'd love to join in an informal sewalong.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Sewbee on November 10, 2017, 08:36:17 AM
Ooh thank you - lots to think about there.

Simplicity 8467 seems to be the closest to what I'm looking for, but the hooded version seems not to be lined, and I would have to add some sort of closure.

I wondered about a duffel coat - remember the gorgeous one sewmuchmore made?  I'd have to grade out the Grainline one though, and I do seem to remember that it had rather a lot of pieces - I really want a fairly quick make or I won't get to wear it this winter!

If I have the fabric, pattern and some time at the right time I'd love to join in an informal sewalong.

I love that Simplicity pattern (8467)! I've made a note of it. :)

I love your new fabric, too, I've never heard of "softshell". Is it like stretch fleece? I had a look at MyFabrics and they have a nice selection of softshell materials but I have never heard of it. I'm still getting used to British fabrics, though, and other than natural fabrics, I am a bit lost.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Acorn on November 10, 2017, 09:35:04 AM
I only discovered fleece-lined softshell this year.  It's waterproof on the outside, but not rustly like a lot of waterproof fabrics - almost slightly spongy.  It seems to me to be like the fabric my nephew wears for cycling, but this has a lovely fleecy inside.

It isn't stretchy.  I might say it has a very small amount of 'give', but no more than that.

I made this from fleece-lined softshell:
(http://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2092.0;attach=4858;image)

and I am very pleased with it, although I have realised just how much doesn't go with red!  Therefore I am making a wool coat in black and pink so that it can not go with a whole new section of my wardrobe...   :o
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Sewbee on November 10, 2017, 09:50:32 AM
That coat is lovely, Acorn!

 I agree with what you say about outerwear colours, though. I am going to see if I can sew a tunic (ending about 2-3 inches above knee) with coloured tights or leggings but the style and colour of such an outfit clash with my outerwear!

Softshell sounds perfect and cosy, too. I'd love to use it for a car coat and join the sew-along but I am only beginning to sew again after a ten-year break and my shape/size has changed. I think I will have to skip this particular sew-along until I get my fit perfected with a few easy tops. Gosh, I am not even sure what size pattern to buy yet but I know I will have to do an FBA. I think I know how to do that so long as the pattern has traditional darts.

Once I get my fitting down pat, sew-alongs here I come!!

Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Francesca on November 10, 2017, 11:14:01 AM
I have a sample of some amazing softshell from activewear fabrics. It's a lovely mottled blue on the outside and fleecey on the back. It's £20 a metre though but lots of technical fabrics are expensive. I planned to make a fleece from a Jalie pattern to wear under my gilet for shooting/outdoorsy stuff.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Acorn on November 10, 2017, 17:29:06 PM
Ooh - oh people with much more experience of coat making than me...

This (http://www.sewdirect.com/cgi-bin/sh000003.pl?WD=hood&PN=Vogue%2dV1564%2ehtml#SID=26) Vogue pattern is supposed to be for gabardine or raincoat fabric, but it is lined and loose fitting.

Can you foresee problems if I were to make it in my wool-mix fabric, with no belt, a bit shorter, maybe with buttons instead of the tab thingies, and with the back flap sewn down rather than with that tab thingy?

On the face of it, it doesn't look anything like what I'm after, but the bones seem to fit.   -<

(http://www.sewdirect.com/acatalog/V1564_full_1.jpg)
(http://www.sewdirect.com/acatalog/V1564_lineart.gif)
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Sewbee on November 10, 2017, 19:13:06 PM
I like that duffle coat - Simplicity 8470 pictured above.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Tamnymore on November 10, 2017, 20:20:19 PM
Nice Vogue pattern, Acorn. Half price this weekend! Just to note that toggle closures   can be quite expensive to buy.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Sewingsue on November 10, 2017, 20:59:59 PM
I love that raincoat pattern. Partial to hoods and that one makes a hood look stylish.

Not sure about tackling a coat though and I suspect the material would be expensive.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Vegegrow on November 10, 2017, 21:38:49 PM
Acorn .. not sure about the crossover front ...  is it crossed the wrong way left over right? and in wool it will be quite bulky
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Acorn on November 11, 2017, 16:20:16 PM
Vege - yes, the crossover is making me think twice - although with the top button/toggle undone it should be less strangle-y.  Their model looks as though she has a very long neck, too - mine is pretty average in length, but I might be able to adjust the way the hood is attached, depending on the pattern, of course.

Tamnymore - I do like toggles, but I think I'd probably want nice big buttons for this coat.  Given the price I think I might order it in hope and see whether it looks as though it would work - if not, maybe I'll make a raincoat sometime.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Acorn on November 12, 2017, 17:27:51 PM
I seem to have ordered patterns for the Simplicity duffel coat
(https://i.imgur.com/yDVnRLV.jpg)

and the Vogue raincoat
(http://www.sewdirect.com/acatalog/V1564_lineart.gif)

I think the intention is to compare the way the two hoods fit, and the size and shape of the bodies and make a coat that is largely one with possible tweaks from the other.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Sewingsue on December 01, 2017, 13:01:50 PM
Just read DF's latest blog post.
https://thedementedfairy.wordpress.com/2017/11/30/hey-mac-a-rain-a/
It looks as if she is going to tackle that vogue coat.
Title: Re: Coat Pattern
Post by: Acorn on December 01, 2017, 13:43:42 PM
Ooh - thank you Sewingsue, I'll keep an eye on that.

I've realised that I can't combine the hood from the Vogue pattern with the body from the Simplicity one because the hood is a continuation of the front panels (which is pretty clear from the diagrams, and I should have realised).  However, I do like the pattern and expect I will make it at some point.

For now I think I will have to adapt the Simplicity pattern for this particular coat.