The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Efemera on April 12, 2017, 13:24:06 PM

Title: Is it me?
Post by: Efemera on April 12, 2017, 13:24:06 PM
Would you blog this...I might be nit picking and a bit of a perfectionist but surely you would give this a good press. I was tought to press at every stage for a good finish.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Ploshkin on April 12, 2017, 13:31:45 PM
Sister Mary Joseph would be turning in her grave if I produced something looking like that.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Francesca on April 12, 2017, 14:23:57 PM
It looks pressed to me?

The main flat areas of the coat are perfectly pressed (see the collar and front facing which has a large flat area with no creases). The "creases" in the jacket are just the natural folds that that sort of wool would make while you're wearing the garment. The ones on the sleeves are just caused by the arm being folded. They aren't creases from the fabric being screwed up. If you put a coat on now with that much positive ease and bent your arm you'd get a fold, no?
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: jen on April 12, 2017, 15:12:55 PM
I'm not criticising (glass houses and stones). Sometimes the only moment I can get to take a photo, due to weather and RL issues is when the project is crumpled, or the technique I'm waffling about is imperfectly carried out. I admire those very polished blogs, but when it's sewing or photographing, sewing gets the priority.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: maliw on April 12, 2017, 15:37:25 PM
Several years ago I made a jacket and was advised to get it pressed professionally - at the local dry cleaners. Being a good girl and all the work I had put into it, I did as I was told. When I collected it and looked at it at home I was appalled, the seams hadn't been done properly so I ended up doing it myself, it took ages but looked ok. I wouldn't take it back because I think I would have exploded - professional pressing - no way.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: UttaRetch on April 12, 2017, 16:23:52 PM
surely you would give this a good press. I was tought to press at every stage for a good finish.

I agree with you.  If it was pressed, then she didn't do a very good job.  The edges lack the sharpness and I suspect that seams may not have been graded.  Still, I expect she received lots of praise in the comments section.  ><
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Maximum on April 12, 2017, 17:30:30 PM
I agree it needs a good press. Might be a "new" look called 'soft finish' with rounded edges - lol :D
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Mama likes to make on April 12, 2017, 17:32:24 PM
I REALLY love the colour though!
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 12, 2017, 17:35:57 PM
I think she hasn't learned how important understitching is yet.  It took me YEARS to appreciate the difference it makes.  The turned edges need a damn good clapping too- she probably did press it, but those bouncy wools take some serious energy to tame, and usually a fair amount of hidden hand stitching inside to hold down the seam allowances too
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 12, 2017, 18:19:27 PM
I agree. It needs a clap (though not on the back). I got one of those point presser and clapper thingies a few years ago and have learned to give edges a darn good thump. It is surprising what a difference it makes. Also good for venting one's frustrations...  :D
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Efemera on April 12, 2017, 19:02:22 PM
It looks pressed to me?

The main flat areas of the coat are perfectly pressed (see the collar and front facing which has a large flat area with no creases). The "creases" in the jacket are just the natural folds that that sort of wool would make while you're wearing the garment. The ones on the sleeves are just caused by the arm being folded. They aren't creases from the fabric being screwed up. If you put a coat on now with that much positive ease and bent your arm you'd get a fold, no?

It certainly isn't pressed... if you mean it's not creased then it isn't but those edges on the lapels haven't seen an iron....
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Francesca on April 12, 2017, 20:08:42 PM
It certainly isn't pressed... if you mean it's not creased then it isn't but those edges on the lapels haven't seen an iron....

I see what you mean now, they do look too soft. I thought you were saying the folds of fabric were creases  0_0
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Ohsewsimple on April 12, 2017, 20:57:40 PM
Maybe she doesn't own an iron! 0_0.
Dreadful. And agree with DF.  Under stitching is soooooo important.  Some years ago a friend and I were at an exhibition at the V & A.  It was a time line of Vivienne Westwood's work.  I'm no great fan of her work anyway.  But it made our day to see some of her earlier stuff.  Seam edges visible through over pressing and a jacket with no under stitching. 
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Snowgoose on April 12, 2017, 21:31:16 PM
I think she hasn't learned how important understitching is yet.  It took me YEARS to appreciate the difference it makes.  The turned edges need a damn good clapping too- she probably did press it, but those bouncy wools take some serious energy to tame, and usually a fair amount of hidden hand stitching inside to hold down the seam allowances too

Please can you explain understitching?  I've never heard of it before  -<  Thank you  :flower:
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Francesca on April 12, 2017, 21:36:13 PM
Please can you explain understitching?  I've never heard of it before  -<  Thank you  :flower:

Here's a little article: https://byhandlondon.com/blogs/by-hand-london/12516745-nerdy-sewing-tips-understitching
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on April 12, 2017, 21:38:55 PM
That looks dreadful.  A long jacket I made recently had edges like that and just wouldn't press, so it had a line of topstitching all around, and along all the seams.  I love it now, or I did until the dratted puppy ripped it!  A bit of wonderweb and a patch on the back helped with the hole...
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Snowgoose on April 12, 2017, 22:16:34 PM
Here's a little article: https://byhandlondon.com/blogs/by-hand-london/12516745-nerdy-sewing-tips-understitching

Thank you very much :flower:  Bookmarked and will try with some scrap material  8)
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Snowgoose on April 13, 2017, 13:34:21 PM
Would you blog this...I might be nit picking and a bit of a perfectionist but surely you would give this a good press. I was tought to press at every stage for a good finish.

Do you have a link to the pattern, please?  I love the jacket and am wondering if it could be made in fleece fabric?  I love the soft, relaxed look of this - ideal for cold, windy days to snuggle up in  8)

Thank you  :flower:
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Samantha on April 13, 2017, 15:45:43 PM
I love understitiching! Makes such a difference and is so satisfying.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 13, 2017, 17:05:39 PM
Indeed- I just did a very long, curved hem facing [twice, because I didn't notice that the bobbin ran out  :angry:] and then understitched it.  It turned back so neatly and crisply, I felt very smug!
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: ajuga on April 13, 2017, 18:39:33 PM
Thank you very much :flower:  Bookmarked and will try with some scrap material  8)

Thanks for asking Snowgoose - I was trying to work it out too. Thank you to Francesca for the article - I have also bookmarked it.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Efemera on April 13, 2017, 18:46:16 PM
The coat is Style Arc Riley..here's the green version.
http://cookinandcraftin.blogspot.co.uk
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: UttaRetch on April 13, 2017, 19:19:57 PM
Compare and contrast

(http://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s480x480/e35/13557200_257180567989167_301698997_n.jpg)

I think it's an ugly pattern, but this is at least competently sewn.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 13, 2017, 19:29:47 PM
Oh yes, that one's done properly lol

I don't think it's ugly, but it is very casual.  I don't see much point in a coat that doesn't fasten, it would drive me mad
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Snowgoose on April 13, 2017, 22:34:05 PM
Oh yes, that one's done properly lol

I don't think it's ugly, but it is very casual.  I don't see much point in a coat that doesn't fasten, it would drive me mad

Baler twine belt!  Marvellous stuff - very chic..  ;)
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Snowgoose on April 13, 2017, 22:39:52 PM
The coat is Style Arc Riley..here's the green version.
http://cookinandcraftin.blogspot.co.uk

Thank you so much!  I really like this coat, I think it would work in fleece?  I like fleece, no fraying, and I can throw it into the washing machine without worry  0_0. I've never tried to make a coat but I am so tempted by this.  Especially in a bright colour  :)
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 14, 2017, 06:22:39 AM
I like fleece, no fraying, and I can throw it into the washing machine without worry  0_0.

Apparently the modern passion for fleece is causing major pollution issues.  Every time the things are 'thrown in machines' tiny plastic fibres end up in the water system, and are ingested by fish, and in turn by humans.  It doesn't break down, and the sea is being filled with invis ble plastic threads.
I'm not a fleece person, but the missus is- I've asked her not to acquire more, and to not wash excessively [I think most people wash clothes WAY too much- the shortest cycle our machine does is FORTY minutes!  Can you imagine hand washing anything for that long?]
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Ohsewsimple on April 14, 2017, 07:31:56 AM
Well never in all my years of sewing have I seen understitching done from the wrong side.  :o I can see there would be problems with that.  Have a look at this method. Should be done from the right side so you can see what is going on and make sure stitching is straight on the side where it will be visible.
https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/07/how-to-sew-understitching/
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: jen on April 14, 2017, 08:11:55 AM
I didn't know that fleece was dangerous to wildlife. I'm going to rethink how I wash my fleece jackets. These are incredibly useful as warmwear that doesn't matter too much (dog walking, gardening). Alternatively, perhaps felted wool could be used to make an equivalent but not destructive version?
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 14, 2017, 09:02:13 AM
Version 2 looks fine. Understitching from.the wrong side sounds like nightmare. I have enough trouble keeping stitching straight from the right side!
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: sewmuchmore on April 14, 2017, 09:37:59 AM
Would you blog this...I might be nit picking and a bit of a perfectionist but surely you would give this a good press. I was tought to press at every stage for a good finish.

I hope she isn't a member after you have all pulled her work to pieces. All of you with blogs imagine how you would feel if someone criticised something you had posted. Plus if you have seen this on her blog have you had the decency to post your thoughts on her blog.
 
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 14, 2017, 10:41:33 AM
I hope she isn't a member after you have all pulled her work to pieces. All of you with blogs imagine how you would feel if someone criticised something you had posted. Plus if you have seen this on her blog have you had the decency to post your thoughts on her blog.
 

Oh lord we went down this road back on the original forum.  I personally don't give 2 hoots what people say about me or my makings, or I wouldn't be so arrogant as to post it out in public.  It's wearable, she looks happy, why should she care?  If she sees our comments and learns that pressing and understitching are good things, we have helped.
No one has been to burst her bubble in any cruel way, and nothing mean was said.

CRITICISM IS A GOOD THING

Empty praise is just that, empty.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Lowena on April 14, 2017, 11:32:57 AM
People who put themselves out there and write blogs are not usually thin skinned......or not for long!  :D
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: UttaRetch on April 14, 2017, 12:33:26 PM
... if you have seen this on her blog have you had the decency to post your thoughts ...

A lot of bloggers moderate comments and anything negative doesn't get put up.  I agree with DF in that there is nothing wrong with criticism so long as you stick to the subject in hand.  My other observation about the coat is that the neckline is lumpy.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 14, 2017, 12:35:15 PM
My skin is so thick I have carved out nests for small animals in it
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Efemera on April 14, 2017, 12:38:11 PM
Here we go again....I didn't say anything that was personal or derogatory ... I simply stated what was obvious and what was my opinion
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Snowgoose on April 14, 2017, 14:12:04 PM
I didn't know that fleece was dangerous to wildlife. I'm going to rethink how I wash my fleece jackets. These are incredibly useful as warmwear that doesn't matter too much (dog walking, gardening). Alternatively, perhaps felted wool could be used to make an equivalent but not destructive version?

I didn't know either  :(  but for me, fleece is ideal - I spend most days covered in mud, straw and various and assorted poo  :o. I also haven't the confidence or means to try and make a coat in a 'good' fabric. 

Possibly some charity shop wool blankets would work? 

I always thought fleece was eco-friendly being recycled plastic.  Oh dear.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 14, 2017, 14:17:46 PM
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/20/microfibers-plastic-pollution-oceans-patagonia-synthetic-clothes-microbeads
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Lowena on April 14, 2017, 15:54:53 PM
The only people we see in fleeces round here are the coach trip holidaymakers......over 75s  :o They wear trainers too...so...fleeces and trainers are 2 things I make sure that never darken my wardrobe  :D
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Ellabella on April 14, 2017, 16:02:39 PM
Sitting here in trainers and fleece jumper and I'm 11 years too young :S :'( :angry:.

Still I have just been to the gym and its cold and overcast so I'm going to stay comfy.
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Ohsewsimple on April 14, 2017, 16:33:19 PM
I didn't know either  :(  but for me, fleece is ideal - I spend most days covered in mud, straw and various and assorted poo

Ahh what a lovely picture you paint Snowgoose 0_0
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Lowena on April 14, 2017, 16:35:56 PM
Sitting here in trainers and fleece jumper and I'm 11 years too young :S :'( :angry:.

Still I have just been to the gym and its cold and overcast so I'm going to stay comfy.

Good for you Ella, but you're not from Cardiff on a coach trip to St Ives, so it doesn't count  :D
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Snowgoose on April 14, 2017, 17:50:44 PM
Ahh what a lovely picture you paint Snowgoose 0_0
  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: sewmuchmore on April 14, 2017, 18:23:03 PM
Well i consider myself told off, again.  :devil:
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: jen on April 14, 2017, 18:35:49 PM
re microfibres. Would it help to make a washing bag out of cotton sheeting or something similar to put the fleece in? Will theses fibres pass through close weave cotton?
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Lowena on April 14, 2017, 18:39:21 PM
I'm sure nothing is personal sewmuchmore.............not even my ( hopefully ) humourous remarks about old ladies in fleeces and trainers
:D :D :D :D
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 14, 2017, 19:01:49 PM
re microfibres. Would it help to make a washing bag out of cotton sheeting or something similar to put the fleece in? Will theses fibres pass through close weave cotton?

If you read the article, it sounds like a very tricky problem for the scientists, so I doubt if anything so simple would work.  These are tiny particles, but they are filling up sealife [and the intestines of whatever eats it]
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: maliw on April 14, 2017, 20:47:54 PM
Well I wear trainers - I walk a lot and they are great shock absorbers, and I have been known to wear a fleece as well. I've still got a way to go to 75.  ;)
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on April 15, 2017, 18:22:59 PM
The only people we see in fleeces round here are the coach trip holidaymakers......over 75s  :o They wear trainers too...so...fleeces and trainers are 2 things I make sure that never darken my wardrobe  :D

Here's this old lady in fleece and trainers...  0_0  0_0  0_0
Title: Re: Is it me?
Post by: Lowena on April 15, 2017, 19:30:32 PM
 :D :D Bodgey, and very nice you look in them too  <3 ( and not a coach from Cardiff in sight  :D )