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Topics - datcat23

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31
A bit of a 'do' / Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« on: December 21, 2018, 08:52:42 AM »
I am finally going to attempt to make this silk tunic (made from a sari).  I am absolutely terrified, as you can expect, and I of course have left it way too late.  The fabric is super soft, and stupidly mobile. 

I am considering making this tunic double layered, as its very see through fabric, and I don't have any lining fabric.  I am thinking about cutting two each of the front and back, using the inner layer in place of the facing on the neckline, but cutting the under layer longer, to feature the very wide border at the end of the sari. 

So, I am looking for hints on how to deal with this fabric.  What needles to use, whether I need to alter tension, would the walking foot help.  I am hoping to use the end borders and selvedges as hemlines, to avoid having to hem this super soft fabric.  But still, I don't want to pull or snag the fabric.

So hit me with your tips.   

32
A bit of a 'do' / Improving a RTW dress
« on: September 15, 2018, 23:20:25 PM »
I will never understand the "throw the toolbox at it" approach to clothing production.  Just because you can add froufrou, doesn't mean you should. 

I picked this dress up off the 50% rack at a local plus sized store.  Its a good enough dress, fits ok I suppose.

Autograph dress by Dani, on Flickr

But, for some reason unknown to me, they felt it was necessary to add a completely redundant row of wide heavy lace to the lining, so that it was peeking out under the skirt.  Well not actually peeking, it hung down totally.  But why?  The edge of the embroidered mesh is lovely, and the additional lace made the entire skirt too long, unbalancing the whole dress.  On me the lace hit mid calf, which we all know is "frumpy old lady" territory.  Trust me, I do not need help to go there.

Autograph dress by Dani, on Flickr

So today's upcycle consisted of cutting off the lace, and hemming the lining. Lace has been saved for another more appropriate project.

Autograph dress by Dani, on Flickr

And the finished item on.  Now it hits at the knee, its more balanced in comparison to the top half, and I am more likely to wear it.  Win all round.  Apologies for the kids mirror selfie, it was a dog of a day outside. 

Autograph dress by Dani, on Flickr

33
The Show Must Go On / Book Week Pirate Costume
« on: August 25, 2018, 01:07:28 AM »
My daughter has always been the recipient of my sewing skills, although I thought it would taper off as she went into adulthood.  No chance of that though, as she is a teacher.

This year's book week theme was Treasure.  So I offered to make her a pirate costume to wear.

Finished by Dani, on Flickr

It was a fairly involved process, so for a change, I blogged it.  NB: no advertising or product endorsements.

Book Week Pirate Costume

34
In the wardrobe / Raglan tunic - with design feature
« on: July 18, 2018, 09:46:36 AM »
I cut out a version of my Bootstrap Fashions Raglan Tunic.  This top has been a mainstay in my wardrobe, and its a great winter layering piece.  Bootstrap Fashions are a “custom” company, using pattern making software, in order to take a customer’s measurements, and then produce a pattern that exactly fits that customer’s shape.  This was my first purchase.  But, when I put in my measurements, I forgot to put in what is called wearing ease.  Our clothes aren’t exactly the same size as us.  There is always space to allow us to breathe, eat a big meal, sit down; most clothing is about 1-2 inches bigger than us.

But, as its been so long, I completely forgot to add wearing ease when cutting.  And so I had a lovely tunic, that was extremely formfitting.  Ok for my slim daughter, not so good for me.

Adding a side panel by Dani, on Flickr

I used the pattern for the denim dress I posted about earlier, cutting the front into a princess seam, and inserting a coordinating panel, and putting in the pocket as well, using the scraps.

Adding a side panel by Dani, on Flickr

The temptation when making this sort of alteration, is to go overboard, and end up having a top that is miles too big. But this one has worked fine, giving me that little bit of wearing ease, so it doesn’t cling to my lumps and bumps.  With the added benefit, that by drafting a whole new pattern for the alteration, I can now have a different version for future tunics.

Just the collar and hems to do, and then I have another top for winter workwear.

Adding a side panel by Dani, on Flickr

more pics and detail on my blog, no advertising

35
In the wardrobe / Ottobre Denim Dress ..... WITH POCKETS
« on: July 15, 2018, 04:08:21 AM »
I have to update my project board I think. This winter, I really needed to update my winter clothes. I finished this dress yesterday. For work I will probably wear over tights, but its cold today, so heavy leggins it is.

Its the Ottobre 05/2011 - Bubble pocket dress. I had to draft up from the top size (48) and had bit of trouble with the neckline, but managed to bodge it ok. In particular the neckline ended up too wide, creating a lump/fold, which I took out with a very inelegant dart. I suppose I should have done an FBA (which would have given me the required width at the waist too) but I am a lazy cow sometimes. Notes taken for the next incarnation. I have already redrafted the pocket to take out the gathering, but its still a very wearable item.

The fabric is a gorgeous stretch denim (source long forgotten) that I have hoarded for years. Originally I had planned a pair of skinny leg jeans for this fabric, but lately I realise that no amount of wishful thinking will make me a tall, thin woman. I am short, dumpy and apple shaped, and will probably be that way forever. Oh well.   ;)

Denim tunic by Dani, on Flickr

36
In the wardrobe / T-shirt production line
« on: June 03, 2018, 08:36:51 AM »
I noticed a couple of weeks ago, that a few of my shirts are developing wear holes at the centre front.  This is due to my bad habit of cooking without an apron. 

This weekend I finished up three new tshirts.  I would like to point out now, that I deserve an award for willingly changing thread on my overlocker and coverstitch midway. 

Tshirts x 3 by Dani, on Flickr

Tshirts x 3 by Dani, on Flickr

Tshirts x 3 by Dani, on Flickr

37
Patterns Discussion / To contrast or not to contrast?
« on: May 13, 2018, 01:05:37 AM »
I have cut out the jacket from Ottobre 5/2014 ..... the colour blocked one with the raglan sleeves.  In hindsight maybe the quilted one would have been a better choice, but I prefer raglan sleeves.



The recommended fabric was wool jersey, but I am using black cotton fleece.  This is thicker, and doesn't have as much stretch, so I have had to add some width.

So to the questions.

Because of the thickness of the fleece, I am thinking that I should use an alternative fabric for where the designs has layers; so the collar (maybe just the inner collar, black fleece on the outer) and the pockets.  Should I use a woven or a stable knit?

And ..... if I use a colour, should I also do some contrast stitching along the princess and sleeve seams. 

Ideas welcome ..... ta

38
Wonderful brains trust, I need your advice on the choice of an outfit for a wedding I have been invited to. 

The catch ..... the wedding is for an Australian friend of my husband, and his wife-to-be is from the Phillipines.  The wedding is being held in Iloilo City, in the Phillipines.  The church is a fantastic, incredibly decorative old church, and the reception is at a very fancy upmarket hotel.  Its at the end of the year (December 31), so gonna be nice and hot.

The invitation doesn't stipulate if its formal or semi-formal, although I figure with the fancy church, it might need to be reasonably formal.  Its an early afternoon wedding, but an evening reception.

So I am needing a semi-formal to formal outfit for the wedding, and possibly another outfit for the reception.  I would love some ideas on what might be expected, and what might be appropriate for the time of year.   And of course, what will be suitable for a short, tubby woman in her late 40's. 

Looking forward to reading some of what I know will be great suggestions. 

39
Quite a while ago, I asked for some advice, specifically on backing/edging/joining a set of embroidered blocks that I had picked up on a destash website.  These pieces were beautiful, but had a sad back story. 

Quilting project - starting out

A lot of the suggestions were for a vintage type fabric to join these blocks.  The original quilt design had the blocks edged with a bottle green peeper, and then sashed with a bright yellow/gold fabric.  Let me tell you now, those two colours together?   :x  I seriously do not like either.  I was following the destash site, looking for an alternative, when a seller put up a beautiful antique rose fabric, in muted shades of beige/pink/blue; suitably vintage style.  I thought it was great, but asked her advice just to be sure.  She said it was lovely, but then suggested that instead of vintage, I should go modern. 

Backing fabric by Dani, on Flickr

This fabric has all the colours I love, and just pops.  I am loving the contrast with the muted, but intricate embroidery.  She was having a sale, and I picked up 5 metres, enough for the backing, plus a couple of cushions.

I then embroidered the straight lines on the centre panel (the only embroidery the previous owner hadn't completed).  My big girl was not impressed, and went a bit dodgy in places, but it got done. 

Progress - Sad Quilt. by Dani, on Flickr

The backing only shows 1/2in strip on the front, but the colours just seem to pop!

Sad Quilt - close up by Dani, on Flickr


40
Embroidery and Embellishment / Baby Christening Gown
« on: April 25, 2018, 04:52:50 AM »
I have been prevaricating about this gown for ages, asking all sorts of advice, and doing test stitch outs on various bits of fabric (including a tunic for me).   But I have decided that its about time to bite the bullet, and just get it done. 

The gown was made many years ago, from a vintage pattern I have had for years.  I had found the fabric (a lovely thick gold satin) at an op shop, and decided to accessorise with lilac.  While the gown was lovely, it was a bit plain, and needed jazzing up.

Christening Gown by Dani, on Flickr

Hubby and DD both felt that one design on the hem would be better than trying to mirror. 

and a closeup, it remains to be seen, how it goes once I wash away the stabiliser.

Christening Gown by Dani, on Flickr

41
Embroidery and Embellishment / Water soluble stabiliser
« on: April 11, 2018, 03:34:17 AM »
This is the first trial, with water soluble stabiliser.  The fabric is quilting cotton.

Test stitch out with soluble stabiliser. by Dani, on Flickr

I am a little concerned with the impact of the wetting of the fabric.  The initial wash has had the fabric shrink and bubble.  I will see how the finished design looks once dry and pressed.    I can see that for future designs, if I want to use the soluble, I am going to have to prewash the fabric first. 

I have plans for putting this particular design onto a christening gown I have in the cupboard.  The gown is a rich gold with lilac ribbons, but its a bit plain.  I plan put this design, in gold and lilac, along the hemline of the gown. 

I think the fabric is silk satin (op shop find).  Should I prewash the gown before stitching?  WDYT?

42
Embroidery and Embellishment / Tension troubles - Janome 400e
« on: March 25, 2018, 00:27:44 AM »
My husband gave me a fab new machine for xmas, a Janome 400e.  We picked it up off layby last week, and I have been having a bit of a play.  And I have been having tension troubles.

The machine has an auto-tension feature, and I have been loathe to fiddle with that too much.  The problem is, its not consistent.  On larger sections (see photo below), ie the petals and bigger leaves, the tension is good.  However, on the narrow leaves, and the lettering, the bobbin thread is coming up to the top. 

First embroidery by Dani, on Flickr

I have done the following:
* wound a new bobbin on a different machine (I read somewhere that the bobbin winding on these machines isn't great)
* removed the hoop, and re-inserted the bobbin mid project
* checked that I was inserting the inner hoop correctly
* checked that I was threading correctly

Please don't tell me I need to hoop tighter ..... this last project, it took serious muscle to undo the hoop screw. 

Any suggestions appreciated.

43
Embroidery and Embellishment / Machine Embroidery virgin
« on: March 12, 2018, 00:13:12 AM »
Hey everyone, this weekend I took delivery of my xmas present, that has been happily waiting on lay-by for me.

embroidery machine 2 by Dani, on Flickr

She's big, although a much lighter weight than I expected.  I have bought myself a big batch of embroidery threads.  Hubby gave me a selection of stabilisers for xmas, so I am pretty much set and ready to go.  The only thing we both forgot, is bobbin fill.  I have ordered a reel online, so in the meantime, I have been entertaining myself with various online tutorials. 

One thing that comes up often in the tutes, is the use of "pre-filled bobbins".   Is this a useful thing to do?  or a marketing ploy?  Should I be buying these, instead of winding my own?

44
What lies beneath... / Pattern suggestions, plus sized mens dressing gown.
« on: February 26, 2018, 11:06:43 AM »
I have been given some beautiful fabric, a soft check, I think maybe brushed cotton, or a very light weight wool.  This fabric is part of the stash left behind when a friend's wife died.  He wanted me to take some of the fabric, but is not really fabric that is my "style"

I thought perhaps, I could make him a summer weight dressing gown, made with this lovely fabric, perhaps embellished with satin as piping. 

But he's a big man, 5XL with a big tummy ....... A man with a "bit of importance" as I heard quoted once.  I am struggling with finding a pattern. 

Any suggestions/links would be great!  TIA.

45
In the wardrobe / Designs/styles to suit an apple shape
« on: January 07, 2018, 23:59:58 PM »
AKA - I am sick of the stuff I sew, but not sure which direction to go in.

The last few years I have gone the classic A-line skirt, with a knit fitted shirt, for my work mainstay's.  This has worked well, but it is getting a bit stale. 

I am keen to try other styles, but I am needing some ideas on what best suits an apple shaped body (ie: big boobs, big belly, relatively narrow thighs, flat butt).  And for the record, I do have a shirt dress that works reasonably well, so that will be my main summer sew this year.  But, I could do with other styles, hence my question.

So suggest away, and thanks in advance. 

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