The Sewing Place
Reception => Tech Know How => Topic started by: rachel on August 27, 2020, 10:33:31 AM
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(My second dress was made from what looked like a similar pattern to the first but came out a bit big and shapeless looking. I carefully unpicked, caarefully checked cutting and darts and seam allowances and carefully remade, but it seems that either I'm a funny shape or I've chosen completely the wrong size as the shaping bits (side darts and back darts) don't seem to be where I need them. Anyway, the second version was also unpicked (it's a shame as the invisible zip had gone in almost perfectly) and is now a shorts and vest set for sleeping in. Hey ho. I really liked the fabric and might rebuy to get that dress I wanted! )
Anyway, I have a question about necklines. I reverted to the original pattern to make a longer version and experiment with the hemline.
But I think I must have narrow shoulders because the pattern seems to be almost 'off the shoulder' on me. I have googled for info on how to adapt the pattern and will try that later, but this current one is already cut and there's no going back. Off the shoulder as a look is fine, but during wear it rides up and causes a gaping neckline. So, for now, I'm experimenting with darts or pleats in the neckline to try to get it to sit better. Fortunately, the fabric has a small flower print, not like the sharks where any such darts would have been too obvious.
Anyway, I'm after some advice and creative ideas to disguise neckline darts - a flounce/frill or simple collar around the neckline? Or is that too complicated to bother with at this stage?
I may get some cheap cotton fabric to practise making vest style tops to see how the shaping works, any fails can always be used to sleep in. -<
Many thanks for any suggestions
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Sorry, tried to fix typo in title but not working :/
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@rachel which pattern is it?
Sometimes a small dart (pair of darts) at the neckline can help, but if the garment isn't fitting in other areas then you do need to go back to basics. It might well be worth the time an effort to make up a fitting shell to sort out exactly what your fitting problems are. Once you've done that you can then compare the "master" to any other pattern.
https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/b5627?variant=347607405 (https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/b5627?variant=347607405)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vogue-Patterns-V1004-Misses-Fitting/dp/B000TUZ52Y/ref=asc_df_B000TUZ52Y/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=256093557972&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11382634390229358010&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007021&hvtargid=pla-414279442317&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vogue-Patterns-V1004-Misses-Fitting/dp/B000TUZ52Y/ref=asc_df_B000TUZ52Y/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=256093557972&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11382634390229358010&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007021&hvtargid=pla-414279442317&psc=1&th=1&psc=1)
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Hi, thanks for the reply
The pattern is this one https://so-sew-easy.com/lilly-shift-dress-pattern-potm/. It seems to fit the model nicely on her shoulders but is sliding off mine. To clarify, it was a different pattern that I gave up on entirely - this one http://thelittlesewist.blogspot.com/search?q=shift)
Thank you for the pattern ideas - I will experiment with different patterns to see which fits best.
On this one,I will go with the neckline darts but it would be nice to work out what I'm doing wrong.
Edited to add, scrolling down that pattern link, there's a lady further down, the third one down, who has the shoulders like mine, almost sliding off her.
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scrolling down that pattern link, there's a lady further down, the third one down, who has the shoulders like mine, almost sliding off her.
The green dress or the multi coloured dress?
The green dress looks to fit quite well, but she says she did some alterations (shortened the bodice) but it also looks as though she scooped the neckline a bit too.
The multi coloured dress has a much straighter neckline and her shoulders appear to be quite sloping, which can cause problems with the neckline gaping.
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Have you checked high bust measurement against full bust? If there is more than 2"/5cm difference, you need to use the high bust measurement for pattern size and do a full bust adjustment (easier than it sounds) This usually sorts out neck width problems.
If the darts are wrong on you, then you need to raise or lower the dart to make it fit you.
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The green dress or the multi coloured dress?
The green dress looks to fit quite well, but she says she did some alterations (shortened the bodice) but it also looks as though she scooped the neckline a bit too.
The multi coloured dress has a much straighter neckline and her shoulders appear to be quite sloping, which can cause problems with the neckline gaping.
I meant the multicoloured one
Have you checked high bust measurement against full bust? If there is more than 2"/5cm difference, you need to use the high bust measurement for pattern size and do a full bust adjustment (easier than it sounds) This usually sorts out neck width problems.
If the darts are wrong on you, then you need to raise or lower the dart to make it fit you.
Thank you, will look into this.
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I also think you may need to start with a different size.
Did you use actual measurements to check which size to make?
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Rachel if I was to buy the size that accommodated my bust I would need a size 22. I'm a size 12 with very narrow shoulders. :( Go with your upper bust measurement and as has been said do an FBA.
I'm off now before @Elnnina catches me... ;)
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I also think you may need to start with a different size.
Did you use actual measurements to check which size to make?
Rachel if I was to buy the size that accommodated my bust I would need a size 22. I'm a size 12 with very narrow shoulders. :( Go with your upper bust measurement and as has been said do an FBA.
I'm off now before @Elnnina catches me... ;)
Hi, yes I did measure first, but of course I went with my full bust measurement. From what I've read, thanks to @toileandtrouble and confirmed here by @wrenkins I should be starting from the smaller size and doing a FBA. I've just watched a couple of videos on how to do this so am going to try it.
Thanks again for the suggestions
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Yip. That's a lot of your problem. If you put on a shirt that is a size too big look where the shoulder/sleeve seam falls.
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I see that you are trying to avoid me Wrenkins, now stop procrastinating and fine that pattern and lets get you sorted out once and for all. After all I am waiting to help you!!!!!!
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I meant the multicoloured one
That dress on the model doesn't fit well, at least in part due to her sloping shoulders. You might have other issues as suggested by others. Photos would help. I still think you will learn a lot by making up a shell pattern in cheap gingham and tweek that as much as necessary to get a good fit on you.
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Another clue that I may have made the wrong size is that the shark one goes on and off over my head with no need for the zip...
@BrendaP - yes, I will try a few different things to see what works best.
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A lot of well fitting dresses (if they are not close fitted) will go over your head with the zip fastened.
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I have narrow shoulders, so if making a fitted dress or jacket I have to make the shoulder seam about 1/2" narrower. Also as I have very little flesh on my upper chest I have to pinch out a small dart on the pattern piece to make the neckline or lapels lie flat. I agree with @BrendaP that a toile will save a world of pain. I always make one for a new pattern that will use expensive fabric or require a lot of detailed work, i.e jackets, coats, fitted dresses.
Once you have a toile done, a new pattern will take much less time to alter. I also agree that going by upper bust size and then doing an FBA is the correct way.
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Thanks again to all for the replies and suggestions. This is in progress - I tested the smaller size of the same pattern and it gaped less, but still gaped a bit - I wondered about going down another size then trying a FBA but decided it might be worth, instead, learning how a pattern is put together in the first place - it might help me spot potential problems in the future.
So, I watched some videos, took some measurements and tried some drawing. It's not quite there yet, but I think that in the piece I'm practising on I have enough scope to let out, take in, adjust a bit more until I get something I'm happy with.
I hoped to finish today because school starts tomorrow and after that I'll have less time on my hands but it hasn't worked out like that. :[