The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Sonatine on October 07, 2019, 21:10:17 PM

Title: Another winter coat...
Post by: Sonatine on October 07, 2019, 21:10:17 PM
When I was making my coat last year my girlfriend dropped quite a few hints that she'd like one too. She chose the main fabric and a pattern but that was as far as it got. She's now reminded me of my promise that I'd have it made by the time the cold weather hit this year...

She's gone for B6385 (https://butterick.mccall.com/b6385) view A (the peter pan collar). I'm using a maroon coating fabric of unknown composition from the market but I'd be very surprised if it's not entirely synthetic - she can't tolerate the feeling of wool so that's good. It's got a nap and feels very soft. The lining is a shot navy paisley poly viscose blend from Croft Mill and then she's also asked for the collar, pocket openings, and buttons to all be navy velvet. I've found one that is fairly lightweight and short pile so I'm hoping it won't look shabby too quickly and that it won't be too bulky to work with. It's also going to have a brushed cotton interlining, as much so that I can catch the seam allowances down on the inside (I don't think the coating will press well) as for warmth.

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
This was the best photo I could get of the fabrics but it washes out the lining quite a lot.

I found having a thread so helpful for last year's coat, it was great motivation and I wouldn't have managed it without the help and advice here. I'm hoping I should have fewer questions this time round though!

Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Vezelay on October 07, 2019, 21:58:12 PM
My favourite colour fabric and what a lovely pattern. I quite fancy that myself and I could do with a smart warm coat. I've never made one before (though I suppose I did make a lined jacket 2 years ago) so I shall watch your progress with interest and curiosity. Even reading the word "interlining" can bring on palpitations  :) but maybe next year...
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: mums sewing machine on October 07, 2019, 22:52:17 PM
Lovely pattern and gorgeous fabric colours
Like @Vezelay I’ll watch your progress with interest as I’ve just seen a coat pattern I fancy doing, and I was debating leaving it unlined as I’ve never made a coat before let alone a lined one!
Let us know how it’s going x
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Lachica on October 07, 2019, 23:02:07 PM
Lucky friend! The fabrics look lovely & having followed your thread from your coat & your riding habit, I'm sure you'll make a fab job.
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Nevis5 on October 08, 2019, 07:18:05 AM
Indeed, a very lucky friend!  I can't remember if I have that pattern in my stash or not, but it's a really nice, classic coat which should last your friend for years.  Good luck with it!  I'm another one who likes the fabric colour.....
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Elnnina on October 08, 2019, 14:36:48 PM
Sonatine, look how far you have come since your tentative enquiry last year about making a coat, and what a stunningly beautiful coat you made too, and the pattern you chose with all those panels and all that tailoring was not really a beginners first make, but you made something and had this ready to wear during the winter.  So now you are venturing into another coat this time for your friend, again lovely colours and you have already thought through what you have to do.  Hope the rolling pin is handy.  Now just a word to the wise on velvet, this can be really tricky to handle and sew with and of course there is the nap on this.  Pressing is going to be fun, strictly speaking a proper velvet pressing board which has sort of needles standing up is the way to go but they are very expensive and if you are not going to be sewing lots of velvet rather a waste of money getting one.  However, if you have a decent pile on a towel that will help, but I do not envy you trying to turn a collar out and getting that seam right.  Also velvet will show up all marks, - not sure how you can get that collar turned out and pressed without tacking along the edge and that tacking line might not go away.  Have you any velvet you can experiment with  before you go down that line.

Anyway have fun with this coat making and enjoy the experience.  Look forward to watching your progress.
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: sewingj on October 08, 2019, 15:01:34 PM
Can`t wait to see how you get on as I was so impressed by your coat last year
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Sonatine on October 08, 2019, 16:42:31 PM
Thank you all for your kind comments! Although to be slightly pedantic I feel I should point out that the recipient of the coat is the partner sort of girlfriend, not a friend-who-is-a-girl sort of girlfriend :D

@Elnnina thanks that is really helpful. I've got plenty of the velvet as the minimum cut I could get was 50cm x 150cm so I think I'll make several collars and either use the best one or find a more straightforward contrast fabric if none of them are good enough. The pile doesn't crush very easily on it so fingers crossed it might be ok.
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Iminei on October 08, 2019, 23:09:00 PM
Errrrmmmm ... What about me ?????
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Fabric Lover on October 08, 2019, 23:13:40 PM
Thank you all for your kind comments! Although to be slightly pedantic I feel I should point out that the recipient of the coat is the partner sort of girlfriend, not a friend-who-is-a-girl sort of girlfriend :D

@Elnnina thanks that is really helpful. I've got plenty of the velvet as the minimum cut I could get was 50cm x 150cm so I think I'll make several collars and either use the best one or find a more straightforward contrast fabric if none of them are good enough. The pile doesn't crush very easily on it so fingers crossed it might be ok.

Same difference, my husband has dropped many hints about me making a shirt, but apart from a fancy dress shirt, a waistcoat and a shirt that I didn’t finish, he’s still waiting!
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Lachica on October 09, 2019, 07:14:06 AM
If the velvet is too difficult to use for a collar you could try faux suede.
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Sonatine on October 09, 2019, 15:38:35 PM
@Lachica that's a good suggestion thanks, I'll keep it in mind

@Iminei there is 4.5m of dark navy coating lurking in my stash...  :ninja:
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Fabric Lover on October 09, 2019, 15:51:04 PM
Not sure what happened to my post below - that didn’t turn out as intended!  |O

What is meant to say was that DH has frequently hinted about me making him a shirt! But I’ve only made him a pirate shirt for a fancy dress party and a waistcoat. You make me feel guilty!
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Manuela on October 11, 2019, 02:40:34 AM
@Fabric Lover, I edited your previous post and separated the quote.
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Catllar on October 11, 2019, 15:57:48 PM
My one and only attempt at a coat finished in the charity shop as I looked like a cross between a red postbox and mother christmas. Don't often need one here though so I'm not rushing to repeat the experience.
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: Tiggy on December 01, 2019, 17:05:02 PM
It’s going to look lovely.  I like making coats.
Title: Re: Another winter coat...
Post by: HenriettaMaria on December 01, 2019, 21:40:57 PM
I made a great winter coat the year I graduated (ie, the year Charles & Di got married  :o )

I wore it for about 10 years until it got too threadbare but I still have the pattern and intend to make it again when I retire (the sooner the better!!!).  Interestingly, the winter after I made it my granddad gave my brother an old overcoat from the 50's that had had almost no wear and, apart from welt pockets rather than patch pockets, the styling was identical.

I expect it will need a wee FBA, which, if I allow it to drop to the hem, will also incorporate a FHA but I'll check before I cut.  It's this one, by the way.