The Sewing Place

The Emporia => Sewing Professionally => Topic started by: Sandra on August 10, 2020, 17:38:02 PM

Title: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sandra on August 10, 2020, 17:38:02 PM
For @Iminei  @Efemera and anyone else who's interested.  :)
I was asked to make two waistcoats larger by 5 inches  :S

Now, there's not many options to do this. I don't have a magic wand and I'm not going to go out and buy the customer the correct size, so when I'm asked to do this I usually put some strips of near-enough colour, lining fabric in the sides to widen them. Gaining five inches is rather a lot though. It will obviously make the armholes bigger too.

I assumed they would be regular style waistcoats with fabric fronts and lining backs. No. These have fabric front and back...and they're double-breasted.  ;) You can guess how I gained some of the extra now can't you?

There's very little chance of finding some fabric to match...So, what I did was, I took the belt strap thingies off the back and used those. They were a little short so I pinched one of the pocket bags too to add on.
I used some nice quality lining fabric to replace the belts and I replaced the pocket with some near-enough colour fabric too.

I don't have any 'before' pictures. I just quickly snapped these this morning before they're taken away.

(https://i.imgur.com/r75MI3Rl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/XYvh2Zsl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/6Ekgqaql.jpg)


I got just about two inches in each side seam from the belts, so moved the front buttons over accordingly to gain the missing inch or so.

The instructions on the ticket tells me to put black strips in the sides if I can't find some fabric to match.  :o  :S

Sandra.
xxx

Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Ellabella on August 10, 2020, 17:39:54 PM
@Sandra you are a marvel. 0_0
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Lachica on August 10, 2020, 17:41:02 PM
That looks fab. Very creative, using the belt. I hope you charged a fair bit for this.
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: sewingj on August 10, 2020, 17:50:07 PM
Genius!
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Acorn on August 10, 2020, 17:58:16 PM
I hope your dry cleaner and the customers know what a gem they have in you!   :*
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: BrendaP on August 10, 2020, 18:04:12 PM
It's amazing that you managed to add 5 inches without adding a contrasting fabric.  I hope you charged approriately.
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: wrenkins on August 10, 2020, 18:04:16 PM
You're like a magician!  :o
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Puzzler on August 10, 2020, 18:05:12 PM

The instructions on the ticket tells me to put black strips in the sides if I can't find some fabric to match.  :o  :S

 ><

Real stitch wizardry there, @ Sandra, with no magic wand in sight. Bravo.
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Efemera on August 10, 2020, 18:05:38 PM
Very creative...
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: toileandtrouble on August 10, 2020, 18:09:05 PM
Nice job @Sandra.  You did a great job matching the pattern too.   :loveit:
I've been given waistcoats that have split the lining because they were too small for the wearer and had to replace the  whole lining back. They had to have extra under the arms too  but back to front is probably where they needed the extra! Great feeling when you can send back an item that looks as good as that.
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Lowena on August 10, 2020, 18:50:38 PM
Bravo, @Sandra  <3
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sandra on August 10, 2020, 19:07:19 PM
Thanks everyone...it is quite satisfying when something looks better than expected when I've done something like this.
I'm not expecting the customer to notice the different colour belts. They'll just be amazed I found such a good match.  0_0

Sandra.
xxx

Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Lilian on August 10, 2020, 19:15:47 PM
Wow! @Sandra they look lovely. Ingenius!  :toast:
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Tamnymore on August 10, 2020, 19:34:17 PM
Amazing. You are a star!
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Iminei on August 10, 2020, 20:14:23 PM
D'OH! When I first read your post in the Today thread, I thought you said LONGER and was wondering how the h*** you could possibly do that ...

Larger .. Yup Definitely Doable and you win Iminei's Goldest Star for
A) actually being bothered and
B) not telling the punter to buy new and
C) for doing a FAB  U Lous job!!!

Bravo Darling !!!
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Ohsewsimple on August 10, 2020, 21:08:19 PM
Very clever @Sandra
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Silver Rose on August 11, 2020, 10:30:50 AM
Super job @Sandra , what a star.
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: WildAtlanticWay on August 11, 2020, 10:37:10 AM
Fabulous. Definitely some sewing wizardry going on there.  <3

Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: KayK on August 11, 2020, 13:49:19 PM
Crumbs!  You've made the seemingly impossible possible!  That's one skill set you have there - there are many of us that wouldn't have a clue where to even start!
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: SkoutSews on August 11, 2020, 14:12:49 PM
Blimey, Sandra, you have superb sewing skills. Alterations like that require particular expertise. I hope you are properly appreciated!
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Kenora on August 11, 2020, 17:31:43 PM
Only just seen this - fantastic work @Sandra . <3
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sandra on August 12, 2020, 13:13:02 PM
I hope you are properly appreciated!

Not especially, no.
I've found out this morning, how much the customer has been charged for this job. £15 each waistcoat.  >< They (the agent) decided what to charge without any input from me and without me seeing or advising what options there were.

As you know, I work through a middle-man. The Dry Cleaner has to do all the running around between the agent and myself, so obviously he wants something for his part in it all. Fair enough.
Sometimes though, it's more than I get. If I do a little job and charge £5 he might charge £12.
The agent knows this, so they must have assumed I'd charge about £6 - £7 for the work on these waistcoats.

I've charged £15 each for what I've done and I'm OK with that.
If I'd known what the customer was paying, I'd have bunged a couple of odd strips of fabric in the sides. I probably should have done. Even doing that, I still have to add pieces in the lining too...£6 - £7 isn't a lot is it?
But I try to do as good a job as I can.

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: sewingj on August 12, 2020, 13:45:20 PM
@Sandra  living where you do probably doesn't help. Someone with your skills in London would be able to charge a fortune. You should be rewarded for knowing how to do something not just the hours you spend doing it
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sandra on August 12, 2020, 13:59:07 PM
@sewingj  My brother said something similar.

He lived in France and used to do jobs for people. He's a very handy, woodwork-y type. Skirting, doors, windows. That sort of stuff.
He'd say how much for them to pay and they'd be astounded by how cheap his prices were, and he said it was because of where we live.
Almost feel embarrassed to charge too much.

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: sewingj on August 12, 2020, 14:10:27 PM
@Sandra ideally you should think of it the way an artist does.  It might only take them a few hours to paint a beautiful painting but it is generally years of training and practice that enables them to do it, plus the fact that very few other people can do it so well.  That`s why they are able to charge  thousands of pounds for their work.  Unfortunately you can`t do that if you live in an area where your customers aren`t able to pay the proper rate.  But please don`t let anyone take advantage of your good nature.  I don`t think you realise how talented you are
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: SkoutSews on August 12, 2020, 14:32:16 PM
Don't feel embarrassed, you're worth every penny!  They got a bargain with those waistcoats.

Think of it in terms of hourly rates - tradesmen round here charge £20-25 per hour - and you have materials and electricity to factor in.
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Lilian on August 12, 2020, 14:41:26 PM
@Sandra Where I live there is a sewing lady in the local town, she has a shop front and also has an ironing lady.  My neighbour has been having her leggings shortened and this sewing lady charges £16 for the job.  Think of the comparison.  :facepalm: that kind of superb work you do is worth so much more than that!
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: wrenkins on August 12, 2020, 17:05:59 PM
When my students start bitching about how much a lab manual costs I impolitely explain that they're not just paying for the paper!  ><
People have no idea what experience and skill are worth. Time they learnt!
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sandra on August 12, 2020, 17:54:46 PM
 :o £16 to shorten leggings! Not even my dry cleaner charges that much with his 'little extra' added on.

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Lilian on August 12, 2020, 17:56:01 PM
She gets away with it too!

Sorry, my mistake @Sandra - that was for 2 pairs. Still a lot though.
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sewingsue on August 12, 2020, 21:16:32 PM
Many decades ago I was responsible for the work photocopiers and got to know the engineers who came to service and repair them.
One time something had jammed and he fetched it a good thump. This man and I always got on well so I said "you get paid to hit copiers?"
Him: "No, I get paid to know where to hit copiers"
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: wrenkins on August 12, 2020, 21:26:03 PM
A friend of mine is a CPO:- Close protection officer (body guard). He gets paid a disgusting amount of money, not for what he does (sits about mostly) but for what he might have to do! ie take a bullet!  :S He's welcome to it.  :[
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: jintie on August 13, 2020, 05:58:36 AM
@Sandra can you ask the dry cleaner to contact you in future for a quote for anything out of the ordinary, eg shortenig or new zips.
Maybe the other folk here could do some local research and tell us what alterations dry cleaners are likely to offer. My guess is that that waistcoat job would not be taken on due to the time involved.
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sandra on August 13, 2020, 08:51:47 AM
The Dry Cleaner's pretty good, it's this particular agent who can't say no.
They're a good old fashioned, traditional, friendly, local independent shop and they can't bring themselves to turn someone away. So they'll take anything on to try to help.  >< But they don't always know or understand what work's involved and I can't always advise them unless the item's in front of me.
They have great faith in me and I've often had conversations which have ended with...'but we know you'll think of something. Your work's always lovely'.
Which is nice.  :)

But...

Sometimes, you have to be honest to the customer and explain just how much work's involved. Unfortunately, some jobs are simply not worth the cost. They can buy a new one or at least put the alteration cost towards a new one.
Especially nowadays with RTW being so cheap.  :S
These waistcoats were ordered from China and the sizes came up much smaller than expected.

I used to find that the customer would appreciate your honesty and once you'd properly explained what you'd need to do, they'd accept.

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: justpottering on August 14, 2020, 11:44:09 AM
That’s a great job well done the customer should be very happy with that Sandra

I have done many alterations and repairs for self family friends and ‘customers’ it’s one of my favourite things to do especially a good challenge but most all don’t have a clue what’s involved and as for getting paid what it’s worth that would be a rare thing indeed!

The nice comments are indicative of being very clever and creative which is great but the downside is such talent is also considered just something you can do and not recognised as a gift and certainly not paid accordingly

But it’s a great thing to do, the satisfaction when it works is wonderful
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: jintie on August 14, 2020, 12:50:36 PM
@Sandra, the agent is taking a cut from your work, after a five minute chat with the customer, and then tries to butter you up to do it for peanuts.
A suggestion is to allow the agent to quote only  for new zips, shortening skirts, dresses and trousers (pricing agreed in advance).
 Anything else, they bring direct to you for a quote ( - eg-  this will take several hours and cost this, including materials such as zips. Or- just too busy at present for such a long job)
A tailor in town posted alteration prices in the window to let folk see how much work costs.
He is still in business, and Primark is next door if they want to buy new (!) instead of fixing decent clothes.

Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sandra on August 14, 2020, 14:29:10 PM
I didn't know until quite recently, but the agent gets very little...possibly 10%...the biggest winner is the Dry Cleaner.  :S

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: annieeg on August 19, 2020, 10:04:29 AM
@Sandra your waistcoat alteration is really impressive, and I hope your skill level isn't taken for granted (or exploited).  Out of curiosity, how long did the work take you?
Title: Re: How I Made a Waistcoat Larger
Post by: Sandra on August 19, 2020, 10:55:38 AM
How long?  :[

Erm...
I can't remember.  0_0
It didn't take hours and hours. Sorry I can't be more specific @annieeg I just get on with it and move onto the next item without taking too much notice of the time spent.

Sandra.
xxx