The Sewing Place
The Emporia => A bit of a 'do' => Topic started by: MitchOfTheNorth on March 07, 2018, 03:59:01 AM
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My youngest daughter has requested that I make her a satin tuxedo jacket for her highschool graduation. If it was a ballgown, I'd be less stressed - I haven't made a jacket in 28 years! I'm making Vogue 2383 with the shawl collar Vogue 2383 (http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v2383). The fabric is a dull, medium weight, black satin with blue abstract flowers. I need to make it larger in the chest and the arms -a toile is definitely necessary. She's really strong & muscular - she's a professional timber sports competitor - stronger than alot of men. I'm busy reading the Threads Sewing Guide, the Singer Tailoring book and Claire Schaeffer's Tailoring Techniques - and trying to sort out what applies to a satin jacket versus a wool jacket. I'm trying to figure out what kind of interfacing to use and where to use it because I don't think that I need to fuse interfacing to the entire front. I'm afraid of overthinking this. Any & all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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One thing I can think of with satin is that thick pins can break threads and cause tears. So treat yourself to a new packet of silk pins and try to pin inside the seam allowance.
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And change your needle and file your nails!!!
Is the satin a plain woven or does it have stretch?
Might be good to audition several types, even several layers? of interfacing on scraps?
I'm watching a Craftsy class I'd bought last year (while overseeing exams rooms at school :ninja:) and the teacher not only uses two types (lightweight knit? and weft insertion woven, IIRC) but she puts two layers on the pocket flaps.
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Thanks for the tips - I already bought new pins as mine have seen a lot of use. The fabric doesn't stretch and the flowers are slightly raised. I guess I'll have to order in some various interfacings - I know that I need sleeve heads and shoulder pads. I'm not headed to Vancouver until the end of the month and don't want to wait to find out that they don't have what I need. Off to do some on-line shopping - as long as I don't get distracted.
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Me again! Here's what one of the class notes say re: interfacing:
Speed Tailoring
Medium/heavyweight for the
fronts, shoulders and undercollar:
• Pellon 860F Ultra Weft
• HTC Armo Weft Fusible
• Vilene H410 Iron-on
• Vilene G740 Iron-on
• Weft Insertion Fusible
Lightweight for the backs, sleeves,
front facings and upper collar:
• Pellon SK135 Sheer-Knit
• Pellon 865F Bi-Stretch Lite
• HTC Fusi-Knit
• Vilene G785 Iron-on
• Vilene 308 Iron-on
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be wary of iron-on on satin...much opportunity for bubbling...
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be wary of iron-on on satin...much opportunity for bubbling...
I totally agree and in fact I would never use it for this fabric or for a jacket, sew-in all the way!
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I think it depends on the quality of your interfacting. I was gifted the product sold by Fashion Sewing Supply (US) back in 2010 and I loved it so much, I decided to invest in a couple of varieties, for wovens and knits. Best. Decision. Ever. Sooo much better than Pellon!
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Thanks for the details on which weight to use where. I was already planning on using sew-in as I highly doubt my ability to get a great application of fusible onto the satin - let us just say that I've had less than happy results before. I'm probably going to order my interfacing, sleeve heads and other bits from B. Black & Sons (http://bblackandsons.com). I'd love to be able to see and feel it in person but no local shop carries this stuff.
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Woo hoo! I forgot all about Gala Fabrics in Victoria - they have a selection of the right interfacings. It may be 460 km away but I don't need to take the ferry. So, on Saturday, I'll drive down from my Dad's and check it out - hopefully, they have what I need. And maybe something that I want ;).
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Mitch, are you right at the top of Vancouver Island??? Fabulous! We had an unforgettable holiday there some years ago. Sorry, thread drift. Good luck with the jacket. :D
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Yes, Tamnymore, I'm at the north end of the Island - in Port McNeill. We've been up here for over 20 years now - 8 years in Port Alice (on the west coast) and 12 1/2 in Port McNeill. We, like so many before us, said it was for a year or two - now, it's over 20 and many more still ahead of us.
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I went into 2 fabric stores today & only came out with some extra buttons :angel: along with the bits that I needed for her jacket. So, the interfacing, lining, satin for the lapels, buttons and buttonhole twist is now all safely in the sewing room. We also bought her dress shirt - currently, at the tailor's having the arms shortened (I hate alterations!) & her shoes today.
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Was browsing Fabric Mart Fabric (US) and they sell a 26W silk woven for tuxedo lapels (https://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/Black-100-Silk-Woven-for-Tuxedo-Lapels-26W.html)!!! I had no idea this even existed...
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Just to update the mock up is done. Width was added for her shoulders and back. Arms were shortened. Seams were let out for the hips. Seams were taken in at the waist. And her shoulders are such that she doesn't need shoulder pads. It was made out of the most hideous orange & rust colour blocked fabric. It reminds me of something that Don Cherry would wear. The good fabric is much more tasteful. They're all away this weekend - so, I can sew in peace.
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Well, I finished it the morning of graduation. I will never make that pattern again - what an ordeal! The directions are less than stellar - or I'm just dense. The last straw came as I was pinning the sleeve lining to the sleeve only to find that the lining was 1 1/2 inches (more than 3.5 cm) smaller than the exterior!!! I had obsessively transferred the alterations from the exterior to lining. The morning of grad found me ripping out my carefully sewn seams in the sleeve lining and resewing with much smaller seam allowances. But she looked wonderful & she loved it. But NEVER again will I make that pattern!!!
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Well done Mitch, sounds like you fought through and triumphed! There's such a lot of work in a formal jacket, I tried one many years ago and it was a disaster.
You'll have happy photos of the day with your daughter looking great as a result of your efforts.
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It sounds like an awful lot of hard work MotN. I bet your daughter looked, and felt beautiful. It will be a lovely reminder for her of her special day.
Well done for keeping at it!
Jessie