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Topics - Syrinx

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1
Patterns Discussion / Smart non shirt tops
« on: November 18, 2021, 08:21:14 AM »
Hey everyone.

Looking for some free/cheap patterns for nice smart tops (preferably not button down shirts as have a pattern for those already) as I need to make a bunch.

I figured you lovely lot would probably have a stash of links or suggestions. I've been looking through this season's offerings and feeling very uninspired!

2
Sewing Machines / New overlocker
« on: October 16, 2021, 09:35:24 AM »
A friend asked ages ago what overlocker I would like and I suggested the brother 1034 however it is now discontinued - I'm not very up on the new models available and unsure what the equivalent would be now? Is it the Brother 4234D?

(or any good recommendations for similar) send help!

3
In the wardrobe / Silk evening gown
« on: October 07, 2021, 09:20:25 AM »
Thanks to your lovely help in where to source good quality silk this project is now in "official planning stages"

The pattern McCalls 6838 has just arrived and I'm trying to work out exactly which bits on the fabric required section are relevant before I buy my silk.

I've decided on emerald green silk charmeuse from Beckford silks for the body and the silk organza in the same colour from Beckford too. Unfortunately I'll have to buy a whole bolt of the organza bus hopefully I can either think of something to make with some of the rest or sell it on.

I'll trace and cut the pattern pieces out on Swedish tracing paper and do a bodice toile with that on my tailors form before I order my boning (Sew Curvy!). I think there's some lining required too but not quite sure how much more silk I'll need for that.

Much maths and scribbling of notes to work out exactly what McCalls are calling what so I can figure out how much silk I'll need.

Quite excited but a little scared as I've not done an evening dress before and the silk is expensive so I don't want to muck it up!

What fabric do you suggest a toile bodice is made from? Silk has such a particular hand I'm unsure what the best option is.

4
In the wardrobe / Silk hunt for an evening dress
« on: October 01, 2021, 09:54:19 AM »
I've got a ball to go to in December and I've decided to make a dress. After much pattern hunting I'm going with Mccalls 6838 with the long skirt with slit, waterfall overskirt, and plunged bodice.

I am feeling like silk might be a nice fabric for the main dress and bodice as it has a nice shine and fall without being too heavy but other than making a few bits out of silk scraps I'm not really sure where one goes to buy nice silk! I was thinking mulberry silk because the colour is better and it doesn't rustle like haboti but feel free to correct me if you've more experience with silks.

If I do go silk for the main dress (haven't looked in detail at bodice pattern but I can make corsets so may just have to make the bodice and use silk as fashion layer) I'm not sure what to use for the waterfall overskirt - a lighter organza shot silk? Or is that not lightweight enough for the floaty look of the pattern.

Evening dresses are a new venture for me so any and all advice welcome!

5
In the wardrobe / Deer & Doe Miranda dress
« on: September 22, 2021, 18:37:00 PM »
After some great ideas on what to do with some very discounted crepe I had I decided to make this dress by Deer & Doe.

I got a lovely print out using a sewing pattern copyshop which was excellent and I'll use them again.

Easy enough pattern to lay out and cut - I did remember to cut the pieces with the flowers the right way up!

I'm not convinced by the curve on the side bodice piece,but I decidedto sew it all up and see as the fabric was so cheap and it's a relaxed flowy fit.

Really happy with the pop my bias binding gives it. Again, not sure on the cross over notch matching as seems too crossed compared to the pictures but we'llsee when I try it on with a proper bra not a sports bra.

The making up is intriguing: front bodice, back bodice, attached at shoulders. Front skirts, back skirts. Bodice front attached to skirt vear waistband, ditto for back. I think there is scope to fit pockets but I wasn't feeling the mental arithmetic. Attach waist ties. Then it was right side seam and insert invisible zip on left (a huge one! Which I'll add a pic of later). Had to pop in for supper so I'll head back in a bit for seam around zip and shoulder setting. I took 2" off the length pre cutting but it may need more off during hemming.

I rather like the pattern, though some of the modes of construction are unusual.

Pic of bodice post bias binding and cross over

6
In the wardrobe / 1948 dresses!
« on: September 20, 2021, 16:39:28 PM »
So here are the pics of the finished dresses. The linen one was taken out to Goodwood Revival on Friday with plenty of compliments from other members and stall holders! Very happy with it. It is paired with my gorgeous 1940 reproduction shoes from American Duchess and an original 1940s cordé handbag (complete with original coin purse!)

The satin one was supposed to be Sunday Goodwood outfit but a friend got married so rerouted there. Due to the nature of the satin and my lack of table space it was a pain to sew and took much longer than anticipated - finished it in the nick of time on Sunday morning. I ended up making the bodice the next size up but was too short on time to finesse the fit so it's not quite as perfect as I hoped.

Note to self - no more satin sewing until my sewing tables situation is sorted.

Pics! Not many as no one took pictures even though I asked so just have these three!






7
House Beautiful / Recovering some pad things
« on: September 15, 2021, 10:04:24 AM »
Got a friend with some shoulder rests (gym equipment) that need recovering. Rectangular chunky blocks. Not a big deal. Just wondering whether to pull off the old pleather or just wrap a new piece on top - we're not sure what state the actual padding is in under it. Either way I get to cut out a big bit of pleather, sew the corners all pretty and staple it on. Just want to know the hive mind thoughts on - just cover or recover it properly?

8
Patterns Discussion / A0 printers
« on: September 08, 2021, 15:53:24 PM »
I have quite the collection of PDF patterns now and am getting quite fed up of printing them out and sticking them together, especially as they always end up difficult to fold and often refuse to lie as flat as I'd like after I get them out to make again (even after ironing) so I've been looking for somewhere to send the pdf for printing on big A0 paper. I've emailed a couple of plan printers but not heard back yet and wondered if any of you have a go to for this service?

9
In the wardrobe / What to make with this crepe
« on: September 06, 2021, 15:07:16 PM »
Picked up this floral koshibo crepe (5m) and I'm not sure what to make with it.



I have a fair few patterns I've picked up over the last couple of years and not made up yet but not sure crepe is right for them.

I'm thinking maybe a dress but is it too busy? Maybe that nice vogue skirt with faux overskirt pattern I have knocking about

10
In the wardrobe / Linen 1948 dress
« on: September 06, 2021, 12:39:10 PM »
This is from a 1948 pattern via Reconstructing History (#1507)

Lovely teal mid weight linen. It cut well (although a pain with my silly table) and didn't fray much ( I may have left a lot of seams unfinished or half heartedly zigzagged them). The darts cames up beautifully I think.

I also made up a full slip from a vintage pattern from RH (#1520) and a petticoat from same pattern. The slip was pure cotton with cotton ruffles (not lace) that I had to gather by hand  :headbang: and I used my handy rolled hem foot to finish the hem of that. A couple of interesting sewing techniques in the bodice to skirt sewing - it wanted lapped seams which actually sewed quite well. The pattern had an option for lace overlay at the top of the bodice but I wasn't feeling it so just did cotton. Used up some cream ribbon I had lying around for the straps.

I used organdy for the petticoat with cotton ruffles (again gathered by hand) and a cotton for the wastband. This one weirdly needing altering at the waist even though it was exactly the same pattern as the slip I made first. Had to cut an inch off the top and reattach the waistband - organdy has zero stretch!

Both of those had lovely invisible zips, though for some reason the slip zip was a bit tricky to get in - needle kept missing the fabric. It's a tiny bit messy but fine for an undergarment.

The dress zip was another thing entirely. The construction was simple enough - bodice and facing, skirt with a couple of gathers, pockets (though they are a tad small), and a waistband belt and matching facing. I really liked how the belt connected the bodice and skirt and thought it looked lovely. However. When I went to sew in the zip I hadn't thought ahead and the waistband section was sooooo thick with probably 6 layers of midweight linen. So it all got a bit stressful as I ended up pulling the facing off the belt at the front edge of the zip, folding them back on themselves and reattaching them (rather than it wrapping around the edge) a little off the seam edge. I also added in a half inch of linen on the back piece so that I could take some strain off the waistband area of the zip. I sewed the invisible zip not so invisible around the wasitband because otherwise I just couldn't get it to do up bast the bulk, even though it fit beautifully. So now it's a tad messy under the arm but oh well. If I make it again out of similar linen I'll do the belt waistband change and also flare the bottom of the bodice out a little I think at the zip side.

I also made the cape which I love. Just need to sew the buttonholes. I'm not entirely sure what I can do to sort the line of the darts at the shoulder, though I imagine a press on a shaped ham would fix it (don't have one though!). It doesn't look too bad when it's on though.

Below are some pics (sorry not many, I should really take more but the room I'm in is so messy and full of junk!)

Pattern image


Cutting out


Pressing bodice darts


Skirt assembly


Bodice fit check


Full slip bodice fit check (had to gather instead of shirr as no more elastic thread!)


Full slip on


Full slip and organdy petticoat on


Final dress


Final dress showing off petticoats


Cape

11
In the wardrobe / Satin was a terrible mistake
« on: September 06, 2021, 12:20:46 PM »
So I'm back at my machine. I've made up a lovely 1948 dress pattern out of linen (will do separate thread for that!) as well as a 40s full slip and petticoat all for Goodwood Revival.

I've also got a wedding to go to so thought: the dress came out lovely and I saw some glorious ex designer satin on sale. Satin arrived, is beautiful, lovely hand, super colour (mint with off white polka dots) and I was really looking forward to starting.

Alas, my cutting table is still tiny which made cutting the satin out SO HARD and it took hours. I'm not very happy with how the pieces ended up either - they don't match well and I'm sure some are off grain. But what's cut is cut. I really need this room to be redone so I can have an actual cutting table that is bigger than my Olfa cutting mat. I complain a lot when cutting fabric anyway, but this satin really was the last straw!

My usual method of pinwheeling the dart placements won't work on satin so I had to try and chalk them (don't recommend) and got them in alright on the bodice. First time I haven't enjoyed sewing in darts!

The pattern has a full bodice facing which I've done (with matching darts) and I sewed up the straps and basted them to the RS back then sewed the facing to the bodice and now I am having major issues.

I don't tend to press satin if I use it (usually just make cushions with the stuff or similar) but this dress is going to need it. I know steam is a no go, and too hot will burn the satin, but I can't get it to press AT ALL. I do not want to topstitch the top of the bodice as it will look awful I'm sure. Same for the shoulder straps.

Any ideas? on how I can get the top seam laying flat from anyone who uses satin a lot? Or will it be ok when it's on and the whole fit/gravity thing will fix everything (a vain hope I am sure!)

Also fit wise, I've used the same size as for the linen but I'm wondering whether I should have sized the bodice up a little for ease of putting on/off?

Fabric


Bodice


Facing to bodice seam

12
Welcome Lounge and Information / Fashion Historian
« on: February 10, 2021, 14:04:37 PM »
Hey guys,

bit of a mad rush to sort a thing out for a launch of another thing - needing some suggestions for reputable regency fashion historians if you guys know of anyone?
UK based as well.
Already reached out to Zack, but not had a response so far and running out of time to sort a fashion historian out!

Hope you are all fabulous as always

13
A Good Yarn / Colourwork hat
« on: January 30, 2021, 09:24:06 AM »
I don't often do colourwork but I'm making a hat for someone and created a pattern for a quote to be in it and incorporated it into a cabled hat pattern I have because I thought it would look nice.

Spent a while creating quote pattern. Spent a while working out how it fit in cable pattern.

Started knitting the colourwork. Been a long time since I did colourwork and I forgot to weave in tails and floats. Only realising when I woke up this morning after the 36 rows were finished last night. The interior is a mess. I now need to unravel the 36 rows and start over.

One benefit other than neater insides will be I can give a bit more space to the quote on the back as I cabled in too close. Not awful, but if I'm unravelling I may as well use to my advantage.

I'll get pics later pre unravel so you can see my mess. Blaming complicated self created pattern and brain fog plus chatting to friends whilst knitting!

14
A Good Yarn / More rowan/quail studio jumper
« on: January 28, 2021, 09:38:27 AM »
Saw some rowan brushed fleece in sale so bought enough for the Georgia jumper.

Devastated to discover on re-reading pattern it's knitted double stranded (SO ££££) but all ok. Knitted up the back very quickly as rev st st. Onto the front and my goodness is it complicated.

I've got a lovely deep teal wool, which is not a great colour for seeing complicated stitches on. Luckily I checked for amendments before starting so have noted the changes.

I have had to make a little paper list for tallying where I am on the pattern repeats as the center repeat is over 14 rows and the pattern repeats either side are over 7 rows. The center is easy - just a very slow big cable. But the ones on the sides are mad - a normal cable plus a pretty little repeating nested V shape. So this is a very slow knit as every row is different and having to read the pattern for every single row.

I'll try and get some pictures in the daylight of my jumper but if you search rowan quail studio Georgia it should pop up!

15
A Good Yarn / Chunky rowan/quali studios jumper
« on: January 25, 2021, 13:24:36 PM »
Got food poisoning a couple of weeks ago and decided if I couldn't do anything I might as well shove some tv on and knit a jumper I've been lusting after.

Rowan big wool in a lovely sage green and patter MIA from the Rowan chunky knits book (patterns by quail studios).

I am a decently good knitter, I'm just slow, so chunky patterns make me feel faster! I will take this moment to remind - very bad food poisoning - I couldn't even drink anything. This is important.

I read through the pattern first as I do, knitted my tension square, and cracked on very slowly and with great brain fog from lack of sleep and energy. Over the next day or so I knitted the back piece. I thought it was quite big, using wool up at an alarming rate, and figured there was an incorrect bit in pattern for the neck or I was too ll to understand properly, but just shrugged as I shaped the shoulders and cast off.

Went to cast on the front the next day and started knitting it up thinking how much faster this was going. Looked at it and thought it looked much narrower than the back. Checked the pattern size 2 - 47 cast on stitches. I counted. 47. Sudden horror as I pull up back and count stitches. 67. the biggest size. No wonder it took so long and used so much wool. Disheartened I decided to ignore it and finish the front. Moved onto one arm and made a mess of the increases over x rows because brain fog so stopped knitting and unravelled the back the next day and reknit it with 47 stitches. Reknit the back, knit the second arm (this time with correct increases - read the pattern properly!) and picked up all the neck stitches to knit my neckband in the round. I spent the evening mattress stitching it all together whilst watching tv and it looks lovely. I adore the neck and think I'll make another in a different colour, and when I don't have fod poisoning.

Ravelry generic pics here because I couldn't take good pics. Worth noting I htink that the model is wearing an oversized version having knit the size for myself, hence the lovely sloppy shoulders (mine are a little less sloppy as fit is better) so perhaps I'll make the next one a size up for the loose fit, but I do adore the neck collar)

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