I'm thinking about changing my entry, from a dress with a detachable collar (which is currently languishing mostly in pieces, with the collar not even drafted yet) to a smocked linen Renaissance apron, that I am making as a gift for a friend. I have never done smocking before ever, so I think it will still count as "new to me". It is almost finished, as I have been working on it for the last two weeks as my carry-around handsewing project.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UEeRicSwzJ4/XWi-VCStMOI/AAAAAAAAKeM/8YxO4E0HJrsKvNai54Y035iuzGmDyzRNACLcBGAs/s1600/smocking.jpg)
I put together a blog post (http://artisanry.blogspot.com/2019/08/honeycomb-smocking.html) about the current status of my smocked 16th c apron project, which is very very close to being done... will be done tomorrow for sure. In the meantime, here are pictures of the front and back of the upper portion of the apron:(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CTg8DDtks0s/XWncub-6UII/AAAAAAAAKeY/xC2f8oMP5ngMlP-R8t8rwBrXjkqV6-tZwCLcBGAs/s1600/smocking-front.jpg)
The finished upper edge of the apron has a lovely texture, similar to historical illustrations (https://amiesparrow.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/woman-with-hair-net2.jpg) of aprons as being worn...(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YJWO0gsRXAY/XWndIgJYiII/AAAAAAAAKeg/ZwQrsg29fFA6XOVwy8FJqieWmtH6V6-ZgCLcBGAs/s1600/smocking-back.jpg)
The back of the smocking, on the other hand, is nowhere near as pretty, but does show how the thread runs (between the pleating) back and forth to join together the alternate dots, as well as how the stops and starts of the smocking threads can be hidden in the folds.
indigotiger's 16th century linen apron
What was the ‘new to’ me technique:
honeycomb smocking
Pattern used: I mostly followed the directions for the "Honeycomb Pleatwork Apron" (http://germanrenaissance.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Honeycomb-Pleatwork-Apron-Class.pdf), but followed the smocking tutorial (https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2010/02/05/honeycomb-smocking-tutorial/)from Katafalk.
A short description on how you made it/problems overcome/etc.
I am currently making an entire set of everyday 16th century German clothing for my friend Maeva (who like me, does historical re-enactment), and decided to make this apron as a gift for her... While I have done assorted hand stitchery since I was a child umpteen years ago, I have never done smocking of any type before.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tv5BxDyczA4/XXMFtFMvisI/AAAAAAAAKfI/p0i6JK9Jje4F8jxNJ3xImgkAyqve5_kBACLcBGAs/s1600/smocked-apron-for-M.jpg)
The apron is made from lightweight linen and entirely hand-stitched. I started with the honeycomb smocking, following the directions from Katafalk, and was surprised at how easy it was to do! The only problem was that I had lost my water-erasable marker and so had to substitute some children's Crayola washable marker... which worked but really took quite a bit of washing to remove. I ended up soaking the smocking for overnight in a sink full of cold water and castile soap, with a little dishes soap for good measure.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xj7487-luvA/XXMFtCH_VJI/AAAAAAAAKfM/n55kuYcvYyYk6hT94hDM0cExDYzJAXfmACLcBGAs/s1600/smocked-apron-honeycomb.jpg)
I was relived to see in the morning that the green dots were gone! Once that was done, and the apron dry again, I began on hemming all the edges. Linen folds nicely, and I was able to make wee tiny whip stitches. The various directions I found online said to trim off a strip from the bottom edge of the apron to use for the narrow waistband and ties, but once I did that, I decided that made the apron a bit too short for Maeva, who is taller than I.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bWAWYZlOvr0/XXMFs5cltjI/AAAAAAAAKfE/cqY7VwyD5QczW4vhhoYgCzNUvxKLQqJzgCLcBGAs/s1600/smocked-apron-hemline.jpg)
So, I decided to cut a separate hemline band, and hem one edge with the same width as all the rest, but the other edge deeper, which would add weight to the lower edge and help the apron hang well, and then whipstitch the hemline band to the lower edge of the apron. Needless to say, all that additional hemming added quite a bit of extra time to the project, but in the end, I am really pleased with how it turned out, and my friend Maeva is delighted.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-khwF7HsQIU0/XXMFtSlgnxI/AAAAAAAAKfQ/lbdDByV5qkwBdqpUKK-lln9ewWDg7UXGACLcBGAs/s1600/smocked-hemline-corner.jpg)
The narrow hemmed edges are 3/8" wide, and the bottom hem is 2 1/2" deep. The whole project took me about three weeks of "spare time" sewing; I like to have a handwork project to tote along while I ride on public transit, since without a car, I ride the bus and the train rather often, and having a project helps keep me from feeling like I am wasting my life, but rather using the time productively