The Sewing Place

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Francesca

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 80
31
In the wardrobe / Re: Birthday Party Dress
« on: July 19, 2019, 11:44:58 AM »
I'm very excited to actually get back to this dress now that the James Bond dress is out of the way. The fabric has been sat on my table ready and waiting.

I traced everything off, so I just need to do the first adjustments and then I'll make a bodice toile.

I'm going to do an FBA and a 1" narrow shoulder adjustment first and foremost, then try on. That'll help me figure out how much I need to take out of the neckline edge to help with gape.

32
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 19, 2019, 10:38:10 AM »
Finished last night. It doesn't hang right on a hanger, but I'm very pleased with it. Just in time for tomorrow!

33
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 18, 2019, 16:54:50 PM »
Yes! Though the event has a phone-ban, I believe they have a photospot outside so I will definitely take a photo when I'm in full costume. Can't guarantee it'll be any good! My theme colour is gold :)

34
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 18, 2019, 16:45:22 PM »
It's nearly done!

I made the bodice last night. I just need to make the waistband in full, attach the skirt, and attach some sleeves (probably some sort of floaty cap as I don't have much fabric left but I hate sleeveless).

The bodice is the Lekala twist I made before, massively shortened the length between the shoulder and the base. Perhaps over-shortened it but it definitely fits snuggly.

My sewing machine absolutely hates this fabric. Therefore the sewing is some of the worst I've ever done... but it is held together at least! I won't waste time, it's a costume made out of polyester after all.

I did have to ask the boyfriend "do I look like a chicken drumstick" once I'd put the top and the skirt on but he said it looks good.

35
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 16, 2019, 12:19:40 PM »
@Francesca

I wanted to post this link the other day as I thought the vintage pattern was similar to the skirt you were looking at.
https://vintagepatterns.fandom.com/wiki/Vogue_1107_B

I do have a much better link with more Lanvin and lots of interesting information too. But it says not secure at the top of the other link but not sure that is an issue from what I have been reading? The link I have posted above is ok.

lizzy

Thanks for the link, that is lovely! It doesn't matter if it isn't secure if the site isn't transactional (e.g ecommerce).

I've come full-circle with my plans and think I am going to try the Lekala twist bodice I made again, so it would twist in the middle with a V. Slightly less fabric needed to do that and I think I have enough. I'm going to use my sloper as a guide to get the right height and width on the Lekala top, as last time I made it it was too long and low. I should be able to layer the two patterns on top of each other and trace off a mish-mash which is the right length but has the twist front portion.

Then, like I did on the last Lekala dress, I'll make a waistband to join the two together. Advantage here is that it will be easier to match the skirt top measurement to the bodice if I draft my own conjoining waistband. I may take the skirt in a little at the darts and sides if I need to. It's a bit big, but it works.

Afterall it's only a costume. I doubt I'll wear this dress again (maybe for another dress-up party!)

36
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 15, 2019, 12:22:09 PM »
It's Roylsov tracing paper by the roll. Quite expensive but the rolls are huge. I tend to go for the wider width as it means I can get full skirt pieces on it but the narrow width works well if you sew more tops and trousers.

37
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 15, 2019, 11:45:28 AM »
Last night I finally finished the pattern.

I took Anita's suggestion and removed some excess from the side by allowing the edge to go straight rather than gather up. I ensured that the top line measurement is still the same, so the waist should fit but the gather is slightly reduced. I'm confident now I can gather that much into the side but I will have to gather the fabric tightly.

I drafted up the skirt portion with the waterfall front slit. I've only drafted up one side because they will both be identical, with a plan to just flip the piece over when cutting out because it's so bulky and annoying! I can chalk in the bottom line to keep it level.

Next concern: I realised that cutting the skirt with the stretch horizontal (so across the hips) probably isn't going to give a nice waterfall drape. I think to get the drape I'm going to have to cut it the other way. I need to test out how the drape hangs. There is a possibility that I won't be able to get the waterfall to work. If this is the case, I will just cut it off and have a flat slit instead. Running out of time to worry about it!

I've got Wednesday off so I can work on it then. Also got the top to make, but as a last resort I can just wear a black top with the gold skirt (my theme colour is gold, so I have to have something gold on!)

Hoping to cut the skirt tonight  :[

38
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 13, 2019, 21:27:28 PM »
Right, top part complete. My only concern is whether I can successfully gather that much fabric into that seam. I need to measure and find out how much fullness/ratio I'm working with. If it's too much, I may do a slash-and-spread and try to reduce the amount.

39
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 13, 2019, 18:47:17 PM »
First piece of the puzzle... this represents the front slit, a closed front dart, round to a curved side dart, then a back dart, and the centre back.

I think it looks sort-of correct! The height would be gathered obviously until the top becomes level.


40
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 11, 2019, 21:46:34 PM »
Just about to start the second attempt...

This time I will be leaving some darts open so I will close them as normal when sewing. The front darts will be closed by a combination of the side seam meeting and the gathers. The back and side darts will be as normal. I wonder how the curve will turn out this time.

41
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 11, 2019, 09:52:32 AM »
I heard back from Anita and her suggestion makes a lot of sense. Quite simply I am going to try and retain some of the darts in the pattern, rather than moving them all into the gathers.

I think I can keep the side seams as curved darts instead of moving them to the gathers, and also keep two darts in the back (currently there are 4). That means only closing two darts in the back and four in the front which might make a better curve.

I'm going to see if I can boot up Kris' PC to reprint my sloper at a half size just to text out how the shape looks without having to work on such a huge piece.

I really wish I could afford some proper pattern drafting software. I used CAD at school and uni and found it quite easy to use and I feel like pattern software would help me draft things like this much quicker than manual slash and spread. Might have to investigate if there are any cheaper home hobbiest versions.

42
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 10, 2019, 22:41:38 PM »
First part complete and first stumbling block hit!

In the pattern instruction, she closes the darts to create a curve that goes 90 degrees. When I close my darts, probably due to my extreme hip-to-waist ratio, the curve goes 180 degrees.

Luckily the lady who creates these patterns has a group and is very helpful so I've asked her opinion. I need to be able to close the darts in order to get the waist measurement correct. I am trying to do the mental maths to think if I did it the opposite way (across the tummy instead of gathering on the hip) would the curve be lesser but I am thinking it'd be exactly the same... I'm still closing the same darts afterall.

Also this is never going to fit on one piece of fabric so I will have to sew together the centre back seam but the CB is curved now due to the gathering. I'd have to hope it correctly "straightens out" when the gathers are in place. In theory it would, but I don't know if theory always works out how I plan when it comes to sewing...


43
In the wardrobe / Re: James Bond dress
« on: July 09, 2019, 22:29:12 PM »
Started tonight and have hit a bit of an issue, that the pattern is simply too big for me to be able to handle!

The pattern is "one piece" which for someone as large as me means very very large. The first task was to chop one quarter off the front of the skirt and graft it onto the side seam. Then add the remaining front to the other side.

I know I will end up wanting to sew this skirt in more panels than just one piece as it won't fit on my fabric. That's fine, (centre back seam will be the one) but the problem is I do need to draft the full width of the skirt because I have to do a slash and spread with the darts with all pieces together.

Therefore I think I'm going to have to change tactic. I think I will try again to draft off just the top section (to just a few inches below the hip line where the skirt goes straight) so I can get the top gathered extension piece done. Then I will do the lower skirt (floor length, plus waterfall frontage) as a separate piece and then tape them together. Then I can cut down the back seam and have two pattern pieces.

Considering whether or not to sew a miniature to test it out first. Shame I no longer have my little mannequin.

44
In the wardrobe / James Bond dress
« on: July 08, 2019, 15:13:08 PM »
I really need to get on with this even though I'm not in the mood because the event is the weekend after next.

I'm going to Secret Cinema Casino Royale and have been given the colour "gold" to wear. The identity I've been given is MI6 agent Juniper Blackthorn which sounds a bit like a prostitute but never mind.

I've decide to make a separate top/skirt combo in the hopes I might actually wear the top again and the outfit won't be a total waste. Also as I have decided I'm not keen on my original plan of a figure-hugging dress. I just don't think I'll feel comfortable with something clinging to my belly in a bright gold foil...

The fabric I've bought is this lightweight jersey with embossing. It's pretty cheap but that's OK for a costume.

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

I've bought the P4P Wiggle Dress as my plan was originally to make the fishtail of the shoulder version but I just don't want something so close fitting. So I am going to make the top part only. I may actually wear just the top a second time. https://www.patternsforpirates.com/product/wiggle-dress/

And for the skirt I've been hunting for something slim fit but ruched. I need some ruching to break up the skirt across my stomach. I ended up stumbling on the Studio Faro site which has lots of "puzzle" pattern block examples utilising twisting and ruching: http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited

I found this skirt pattern I really liked. However I would prefer the ruching go the other way (be on the wider part of the dress) but it seems it should be doable to flip it.



The block looks complicated so I'm hoping I can manage it! But I'm usually quite good with flat-pattern manipulation.

45
In the wardrobe / Re: Birthday Party Dress
« on: July 07, 2019, 12:22:50 PM »
Started tracing out the pattern today and I can already tell that it is very long in the bodice. Just looks like a length that absolutely won't fit me!

I'm debating whether or not to do a length adjustment at the waist for the first toile and just get it over and done with. I nearly always do a 1" length adjustment on fitted bodices with waist seams. Same as doing a 1" narrow shoulder adjustment almost as standard.

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 80