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Topics - dolcevita

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In the wardrobe / UFO Ottobre dress
« on: July 31, 2021, 17:32:20 PM »
I started this dress last year and abandoned it for some reason or other, I can't remember why. My usual reasons are that I can't complete it in time for the occasion I was making it for, or it's no longer suitable for the weather after it's changed! Either way, it was just a case of pressing, hems and a couple of fitting adjustments I had made along the way.

The pattern is #8 from Ottobre Woman 5/2018. An absolute corker of an issue - I've made 5 different designs from this issue, everything from a t-shirt to a coat and I may do a couple more.

The dress is quite simple, but effective and very easy to wear - Ottobre's trademark style. My fabric was from Driessenstoffen, back in the days when they still delivered to the UK. Having a break is probably no bad thing for my stash! The fabric was described as a piqué jersey - I'd call it a modern day crimplene! :o

That said, it's comfortable to wear and isn't scratchy. It also washes really well and doesn't need ironing. The colour is a super dark navy.

I'm going to fiddle with the neckline a bit - I inserted some narrow elastic to stop gaping but the distribution is wrong with most of the gathering effect below the left boob but it needs to be higher. I will get that done this evening because, of course, I shall wear it tomorrow!
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In the wardrobe / Two new tops and a tricky fabric
« on: July 25, 2021, 17:15:32 PM »
I recently splashed out on some pricey but gorgeous linen jersey (Stone Fabrics) - beautiful stuff. Being a good girl for once, I pre-laundered it as it almost certainly shrunk on the first wash. All good, no problems.

My dilemma came with cutting out as the knit fabric was significantly off-grain; I should emphasise that I'm not pointing the finger at the supplier, it's just the nature of the linen jersey.  Anyhow, my dilemma was whether to cut in line with the vertical direction of the knit, or the crossways variation of the linen slub. In the end, I went with the crossways slub, as this is visually more obvious. It was tricky to decide, though, and not a judgement I would have wanted to make with less experience.  Here's a close up photo of my trapezoidal fabric:
 
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The pattern is a top from the 05/2016 issue of Ottobre Woman and one I've been meaning to get around to for some time. Since 2016, in fact. Surprise, surprise! It's originally made from a single knit merino wool, but my two are linen jersey and some sort of soft slubby acrylic/poly jersey which is much nicer than it sounds. The latter has been marinating in my stash for a few years now.

I did my usual grading pattern alterations but also modified the neck to make the V a little deeper and wider as these aren't intended to be winter tops. I changed the construction of the front neckline to use a gacing as I prefer the finished look of this method. Ottobre recoomend a rolled hem, but it wouldn't have worked on my alternative fabrics. The top has a slight dropped shoulder and flares out to a gentle A line. It also has a centre back seam with some nice subtle shaping. Another easy to wear winner from Ottobre.

Here are the two versions. They appear to have drag lines at the back but these disappear once filled out with my ample derrière.

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In the wardrobe / By Hand London Anna dress
« on: July 14, 2021, 16:08:35 PM »
I've been working on this dress for what feels like forever - several weeks, anyway.
I have an A0 copyshop version of the download pattern, from fabricated. The fabric is from Fabricland, one of the several viscose prints that I bought about a month ago.
Let's start with the pattern. There are gazillions of these out there with (mostly) positive reviews and the pattern is a good few years old now, so I was expecting good things. Sadly, the drafting is horrible. The 6 piece skirt has straight edges everywhere, including at the waist and the hem! For a long maxi version like this, you can get away with the straight hem, but it wouldn't be good on a shorter version. As for the length! I'd have been really annoyed if I'd used expensive fabric for this, together with their guide on fanric requirements, as I had to shorten the skirt by 25cm and made a generous hem after that and it still swishes just below my ankle bone. I know I'm not the tallest person around at just over 5' 4" but 25cm! Really?! I shorted the bodice, too, but nothing like a corresponding amount.
You get the impression that the instructions are great, but most of this is taken up with pattern layouts and the instructions are adequate. Not great. The FBA method on the website isn't great, either. I didn't like their facings, so drafted my own to finish the sleeves at the same time. And I don't like their invisible zip installation. Or the lack of a placket or decent allowance for the thigh split, if you choose that option, and so on. Sadly, even if you follow the instructions to the letter, you won't end up with a polished-looking garment, which is a pity as the concept design is lovely.
It's a design which could be great for beginners but that will do little to advance their skills, in my opinion.
Notwithstanding all that, it has turned out okay and with major upgrades to the pattern, it's now a wearable and versatile design, but for the money and experience there is much better available.
Note that I have wider hips than Wonky Doris and so the skirt flares into a gentle A-line on me. And it swishes very nicely!
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In the wardrobe / Another Stylearc Bonita dress
« on: June 22, 2021, 18:23:53 PM »
Another of these very comfortable dresses, this one in a border print viscose from Fabricland.
I put a double eladtic casing around the waist rather than the single one in the pattern as I find the extra elastic makes it more comfy. Not much else to say except that I will, of course, be wearing it tomorrow!

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In the wardrobe / Itch to Stitch Recoleta dress
« on: May 26, 2021, 21:28:08 PM »
I finished this last week, but haven't got around to posting it after the trauma of my Itch to Stitch chai shirt that I had such great hopes for. Anyhow, I'm pleased with this dress and although the fabric is much more obviously floral than I would normally choose, I liked the freshness of the blues in it.

The pattern isn't for a lined dress, and although it is intended as a summer dress, I think things often look and feel better with a lining. I used just a plain navy viscose. The main fabric is a beautiful quality cotton print that I bought in a local fabric shop, Hansons, in Sturminster Newton. It was pricey for a cotton, but it feels as though it has a high thread count and is somewhere between a poplin and a lawn.

The pattern is great - very good instructions if you need them and the copyshop version is very clearly and well drafted. I will make another of these in some plain linen that I have in my stash.

Here's the front view:

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And here's the inside with the lining added. I attached the lining around the neckline and the sleeves, hand sewing around the armscyes. The skirt is only attached at the waist; I don't put French tacks at the bottom of the skirt as I find they make ironing tricky.

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In the wardrobe / Stylearc Bonita dress
« on: May 13, 2021, 15:02:10 PM »
This is recent design from Stylearc and is something of a holy grail of summer dresses for me:
1. It has sleeves and, even better, they're floaty and pretty.
2. No zip or fiddly fastenings - it has an elasticated waist and then a wide belt to tie over it (I never think elastic waists on dresses look good)
3. It's designed for soft, drapey woven fabrics such as the viscose I used in this one, so lovely and cool for warmer weather. If it arrives. Ever.

It's a really quick sew for this dress, on account of the pull-on design and the draped style, so no fiddly fitting issues, either, and yet it still looks reasonably smart.

I bought the PDF version of the pattern and had a A0 copy printed by Fabricate. They were recommended here on TSP and they're really good with competitive pricing and good service. I detest sticking loads of A4 pages together and would far rather pay for an A0 print with accurate lines.

The fabric is another woven viscose from Poundfabrics; they seem to have sold most of their viscose now, but I'll keep an eye open in case they get more, as I've now used 2 of the 3 lengths that I bought and I've been pleased with them.

If anyone fancies a go at this dress, be aware of the length. I'm just over 5'4" and didn't need to shorten anything, neither bodice nor skirt, and the hemmed skirt hits me at just below mid-knee. For anyone taller, you'd need to add length, especially if you want to keep the blousy look to the bodice. That aside, it was nice to not need to shorten anything for a change!

The front view:

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The essential well-dressed accessory:
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In the wardrobe / Sort of self drafted/frankenpattern top
« on: May 12, 2021, 15:06:23 PM »
The basis for this top is an Ottobre long sleeved t shirt, but the main point of interest is the neckline, which I copied from a long since dead M&S top from many years back. The combination of the inset panel and forward shoulder give a nice effect to what would otherwise be a very basic top.
The fabric is a lovely soft viscose jersey in a warm dark grey shade.
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The fabric was nice and wide, so I also managed to get a camisole out of my 1.5m - a nice bonus. Also an Ottobre pattern.
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Patterns Discussion / Itch to Stitch discount
« on: May 10, 2021, 17:33:01 PM »
Itch to Stitch currently have a (US) mother's day discount of 20% on their PDF patterns.

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Publications / Online magazines - free!
« on: April 27, 2021, 12:12:59 PM »
This is for UK members and apologies if I've posted about it before. If you are a member of your public library (you can join online) you can put an app on your phone/tablet/PC and access a huge amount of digital magazines (and newspapers from all over the world) for free. There is no return date on them, either, so you can keep hold of them for as long as you like. There is a craft section with 188 different magazines, many of them appear to be Australian, with an extensive choice for knitting and crochet, as well as embroidery. AND QUILTING - FREE QUILTING MAGAZINES @Iminei

You will need your library card number and then an app called Libby. Libby will allow you to browse and search for whatever you want. Check it out, it's well worth a look and there are many other subjects, too.

10
In the wardrobe / New burda top
« on: April 05, 2021, 15:27:21 PM »
I'm doing a bit of spring sewing. Just in time for the arctic blast, of course! :S

I'm not usually a frill or flounce type, but I liked this top when I first saw it, Burda 04/2019, #101. The fabric is some printed viscose from Pound Fabrics - lovely fabric, 1 of 3 that I bought.

The top isn't a difficult sew apart from hemming the flounces if you don't have an overlocker, which makes light work of an otherwise tedious job. I used the overlocker to make a very narrow rolled hem.

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The pattern is a petite sized one so I didn't need to make any adjustments. The shoulder is formed by a dart in the sleeve. I recut the facings to make them deeper - Burda often make theirs too narrow and they tend to flip outwards so a deeper one makes them better behaved.

Here's the front view:
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And here's the back view - a deep enough V to give interest but keep bras covered.

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In the wardrobe / Ottobre blouse
« on: March 11, 2021, 14:23:12 PM »
I need a few lightweight cotton shirts for my wardrobe, so this is the first of at least 2, perhaps 3. The pattern is an old Ottobre one from 2012, chosen for its nicely shaped waist, back shoulder darts and a known good fit.
The fabric is from the Indian supplier, Itokri. A soft plain weave lawn weight cotton with a charmingly out-of-alignment hand block print. It's a casual shirt so I can easily live with the slightly random nature of the print. The fabric itself is lovely  - very soft and breathable, perfect for warm weather.
I made a bulk free 1 piece collar as I didn't want chunky corners at the collar points. I do like this method for reducing bulk in that area; it also makes topstitching less fraught as the needle doesnt get jammed in all those layers squished into the point.
I shall most likely make a white one next; I'm very fond of a nice white shirt as it's such a versatile garment.  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]    [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

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In the wardrobe / Another coat
« on: January 31, 2021, 14:15:05 PM »
This one's a work in progress that I've been pondering for some time after a friend gave me a couple of metres of the most fabulous wool bouclé last year.
I'm making #116 from Burda 12/2020; the bouclé is the main fabric and I have some light royal blue cotton velvet for the contrast. There's nothing shy and retiring about this coat and I intend to wear it at every opportunity!
Although the bouclé is fluffy and lofty, its not a densely woven fabric so I will stabilise it with lightweight fusible. I was concerned that it might shrink during fusing, so I hovered a steam iron over it a couple of days ago and left it to dry.
Today, I'm cutting out and paying careful attention to placement of the checks to make sure that they line up. There is a deep back yoke that I will cut on the diagonal and front breast pockets that absolutely must match with the underneath main front piece.
I haven't quite decided on my lining yet. I will cut the main pieces and get them fused first then see where my whims take me.
Here's the fabric and magazine pattern.
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In the wardrobe / Burda 08/2020 103
« on: January 12, 2021, 16:47:29 PM »
I'm in need of some tops that are easy to wear, like long sleeved t-shirts, but that are a bit nicer. I made this pattern late last year and really like the neckline. It's very flattering for me but not much more bother than a normal t-shirt. The design takes little more than 1.2m (depending on if you need to pattern match), and I daresay you could squeeze it out of less than that if you did 3/4 length sleeves.

I've called the jazzy red one Optimism, on the basis that I'd like to wear it if we go our for dinner for my birthday. However, as that's late February a more appropriate name might be Misplaced Optimism. Once can hope!
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Access All Accessories / Merchant & Mills factotum bag
« on: December 23, 2020, 08:59:25 AM »
These are Christmas presents for sisters and brother in law. They all need bags that are compact but spacious and won't look bad for a bit of rough treatment.
I used waxed cotton from a company in Birmingham (can't remember the name but they are in Sherlock Street), and bought it as seconds. Some of this is due to being over-waxed so once I cut my pieces, I sandwiched them between kitchen towel and applied a hot iron. This removed the excess wax and the end result was good.
The bags are fully lined; the flap over the capacious front pockets is a nice feature.
I've put some essential supplies into the bags, too.
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In the wardrobe / Sweatshirt - Burda 04/2020
« on: December 13, 2020, 13:04:07 PM »
This project has been hanging around for a while waiting to be hemmed and I finally got around to it yesterday.
It's from April's Burda magazine and I used a soft jacquard knit (can't remember where from). The pattern has LOTS of ease and, for a pleasant change, I didn't need to grade out at the hips. It's a fun design, great for smart casual or just lounging around. Both the neckline and hemline are interesting and the high/low of the hem stops it from looking too voluminous. It's an easy sew, just needing a little care around the neckline.
Here it is.
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