The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Technical Help => Topic started by: Efemera on April 15, 2018, 11:51:55 AM
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How hard could it be!...there’s only 4 pieces but the damn thing has kicked the bucket!...
Done a FBA, added a little width to the back. There’s only half an inch between small and extra large ..how bizarre is that. The sleeves are doing a weird twist towards the back, I know what the problem is, I need to take out a large wedge from the front seam, what’s the best way? I don’t want to lose any width from the front. I need to lose at least 2 inches.
Any advice gratefully received
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No one got any suggestions?
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I haven't had chance to sort my camera out yet so I can't show you, but I had multiple problems with this. Firstly, I used a fairly stable knit fabric with a good weight that I thought should be OK. That may have been my first mistake. Secondly, I followed the instructions and started the sleeve seam from underarm to wrist and then went back and started the side seam "from the same place" to the hemline. She says it doesn't matter if you end up with a hole at the underarm. I beg to differ - I think it does and if I was to do this again I would do the side and sleeve seams all in one.
My fabric, ordered on line - a charcoal grey, had the most disgusting white reverse side and had to be lined, although I probably would have done this anyway, I like linings. The points that form the interior apex of the "bucket" are supposed to be caught into the front facing. I did this but the result was dreadful. The difficulty with my fabric is that the front doesn't hang straight - it sort of hangs in diagonal folds (don't know how best to describe it). It was slightly better when I released the points but now they are drifting about inside. I think at least I am going to have to unpick the entire front facings and possibly interface large areas of the fronts? I used the medium size and it has come up quite big so I could overlap it and put buttons down the front to hold it in place but I wouldn't always want to wear it buttoned up.
I thought I would enjoy making this, but I didn't. It was heavy and unwieldy and I was glad to put it down. I have hung it in the wardrobe and don't feel inclined to take it out again yet!
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I found it really small!..I’m a size 20 and the extra large didn’t have enough boob room hence the FBA. I was going to line mine too, I just left the wings hanging like shallow pockets. I’ve had to take huge chunks out of the front bodice/ sleeve seams, this solved the wrinkly sleeves as it pulled them up and forward...I too thought this would be a nice easy sew with some lovely fabric but it’s now on the back burner..
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Apologies for this but it was just a thought - you didn't have the sleeves in the wrong sides did you? There is more fabric at the back of a sleeve than the front which might cause the excess if it ends up the wrong way round.
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@Ploshkin - the sleeves are exactly the same front and back. Might be OK on some people but if you have existing fitting issues like Efemera it must make things worse.
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That could explain why there was excess at the front. I had trouble with a pattern I used last year and realised the sleeves were the same front and back. I made a note on the pattern to do a properly shaped sleeve head if I use it again.
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Sorry not to have anything to suggest on this other than what you are already doing to fix it. Having seen this coat mentioned at TSP in earlier posts I looked at the video and was quite interested in trying the coat but I baulked at £9 for a pdf of such a simple pattern especially as it has no lining, no pockets and no fastenings. No help to you I know but one wonders if this another example of problems with the drafting of indy patterns.
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I think they’ve used it more of a canvas for lovely fabrics rather than a functioning coat...I’ve altered the pattern to death...made 2 toiles so will persevere with it.