The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Tiggy on December 31, 2018, 11:01:59 AM
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I've just made myself a new top, out of a viscose jersey with some body. Soft and drapes well.
https://www.sewdirect.com/butterick-b6517/
It's not a complicated project, but you do need to take your time and follow the instructions carefully. I'm really pleased with it - except for the hem.
I've interfaced the hem, I've used a stretch zigzag stitch and it's turned out wavey and stretched.
Has anybody got any tips on how to avoid this happening?
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Use a stretch interfacing but make sure that neither it nor the fabric are stretched when you apply it, then use a twin needle to topstitch the hem and trim any excess fabric close to the stitching line.
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I'd be tempted to try it without the interfacing, my one attempt at using a stretch lightweight iron on bias tape on a hem wasn't to my liking. I'd also lighten the pressure on the foot if you can. I'm also not a fan of the stretch zig zag stitch, I think it stretches in the way you've found. I'd go for a twin needle as well if you can. Try all these on scraps first though. ;)
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I usually suggest using a triple zig zag stitch. I find that lays nice and flat and stretches as it should and doesn't take long to do. I'm not a fan of twin needle stitching on jersey. Never found it very successful. I'm lucky I have a coverstitch machine.
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I like using Wondertape on mine.
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I too have a coverstitch machine, but I'd recommend wondertape for anything you don't want to stretch out when sewing. I use it for placing patch pockets on jersey, and zips in fleece, it's magic - and I only discovered it about a year ago.
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I don't have coverstitch machine (though it's on the wish list).
I use the .5 (smallest) zigzag to hem my knits with a 2.5 stitch length using my Viking #1. I often add a second row of stitching to make it look like a double needle. I don't use interfacing or anything else. I have a trick I do for hems where I do a row of basting where I want to turn the hem and then use the basting as a line to turn the hem under and stitch from the front. This works well for nearly all the knits I sew which is mostly rayon/lycra and cotton/lycra knits of various weights. I can't vouch for poly knits since I don't use them.
But I always experiment on scraps before hemming to make sure I don't have to adjust the length. I have sometimes used 3.0 for thicker knits.
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@mudcat I use the same trick for marking hems. Sooooo much quicker than using a tape measure and pins.
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I meant to add that I always baste (tack) any hem especially on a knit as it helps too prevent any twisting, I also press it before starting to stitch.
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What they said :)
As you are using stretch stitch, it could be the volume of thread going through the fabric is forcing the fibres apart making it wavey.
Try tissue underneath, not for twin needle or you won't be able to get the bits out afterwards.
If all else fails, strips of water soluble embroidery backing, placed top and bottom of the hem and tack near to where you will sew. Rinse away afterwards.
HTH
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I use ‘steam a seam lite’, and coversitch.