The Sewing Place
The Emporia => Fun with Fabric => Topic started by: BrendaP on April 11, 2019, 09:50:21 AM
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I am planning to make a Zambeesi (http://www.pearlredmoon.com/2018/07/zambeesi-jacket.html) jacket using silk scraps; mostly shantungs and some printed twill weaves and plain weaves originally intended for men's ties.
I am thinking of underling/interlining each piece as well as adding a conventional lining, but I'm undecided as to what to use.
Cotton lawn - will probably drape as well as the silk but both fabrics 'move' a lot. Can I use spray starch to tame them a little?
Lightweight iron-on interfacing - stable and easy to use but will it adversly affect silk?
A thicker fabric such as flanelett to add a bit of warmth - but would it be too heavy for the silks?
Your thoughts please.
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How about silk organza? It is a little crisper than lawn (and that would be my second choice or a cotton/silk mix). I don't think the flanelette would work that well with the silk (it might cause too much bulk) but I would steer clear of iron-interfacing. We don't get on well and no matter how hard I try, I end up with bubbles or it peels off.
If you were looking for a bit of extra warmth, I would consider using the flanelette with the lining. Just quilt it to the lining (something simple such as straight lines down the length of the lining, a bit like a chanel jacket) and use as one piece of fabric.
It looks an interesting project!
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I would definitely use the spray starch to stabilise the fabrics, but test it first. I've never had a problem on fabric - the iron yes, fabric no.
When doing the Poppins return bag, I sewed the strips onto a base, I only used interfacing on the most frayey of the fabric. In my case because it was a bag the fabric I used was quite stiff, but you could use a lightweight fabric, and then a lightweight lining.
It's a bit like the quilt as you go method, but means your shapes stay very stable.
Jessie
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Thanks for your thoughts so far. I'm trying to do this entirely from stash. I have enough silk pieces for the top and a piece of crepe de chine for the lining, and enough cotton lawn scraps but I'd have to buy organza.
Another thought - I've got enough Bondaweb to use between silk and lawn.
Off now to experiment with spray starch and the Bondaweb.
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Brenda what about using Domette instead of flannelette for the warmth part, Domette is used in strapless wedding bodices between the layers and thus gives a lovely smooth look to the finished garment. Also it is not heavy - I used this in my daughter's wedding dress and she got married on the second most hottest day of the year - a few years ago and survived.
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How about using English Couture's fine sheer fusible? Doesn’t alter the hand of the fabric but stabilises nicely.
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I seem to remember reading somewhere that Sandra Betzina uses lightweight flannel for underlining silk but I can't find the details in any of her books.
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I tried using Bondaweb, it didn't bubble but it made it quite a bit stiffer, so I've applied spray starch to all the (rough cut) pieces of silk and it seems to be OK other than a gungy iron :ninja: so I think I'll spray starch the cotton lawn and take it from there.
Thanks for all the suggestions.