The Sewing Place

Tools of the Trade => The Haberdashery => Topic started by: sewingj on February 12, 2018, 08:24:16 AM

Title: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: sewingj on February 12, 2018, 08:24:16 AM
There seems to be agreement that shoulder seams should be stabilised but lots of views on how to do it

So - what`s the best stuff to use? (I have used bits of old ribbon in the past but am veering towards clear elastic)

And - where should it go? (in the seam allowance, or so it covers the seamline stitching?)
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on February 12, 2018, 09:00:01 AM
I don't know what the correct answers are, but I use seam tape these days (but used to use any old bit of ribbon) and just overlock it into the seam.  I don't want my shoulder seams to stretch, so don't use elastic.
I try to get it so the seam line is pretty close to the edge of it, with the rest being in the overlocking, with any excess cut off by the overlocker.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Efemera on February 12, 2018, 09:05:35 AM
I’ve used everything in the past but now use clear elastic...it doesn’t stretch very much.

Just enough give but enough stability.I just stitch it with the overlocker as I’m sewing the seam.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: sewingj on February 12, 2018, 09:14:41 AM
Thanks Ladies - but perhaps I should have said that I don`t have an overlocker.  I tend to sew the seam with a straight stretch stitch and then finish the seam allowance with a 3-step zigzag.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Efemera on February 12, 2018, 10:10:54 AM
Just stitch it when you stitch the seam.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Mozzy on February 12, 2018, 10:29:10 AM
I either use ribbon, or a narrow strip of iron on interfacing.  I save the hanging ribbons from rtw tops to use as they're usually in the way and I cut them off straight away.  I haven't noticed a difference in the way garments hang with ribbon or interfacing so it's just what is handy at the time.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Francesca on February 12, 2018, 10:39:31 AM
I use Dritz Stay Tape (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dritz-Stay-Tape-2-inch-10yd/dp/B000YYZQIS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518431936&sr=8-1&keywords=dritz+stay+tape). Strong, light, lasts forever, easy to stitch (doesn't shift as you try and sew). One roll lasts forever.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: SkoutSews on February 12, 2018, 11:57:26 AM
I use Dritz Stay Tape (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dritz-Stay-Tape-2-inch-10yd/dp/B000YYZQIS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518431936&sr=8-1&keywords=dritz+stay+tape). Strong, light, lasts forever, easy to stitch (doesn't shift as you try and sew). One roll lasts forever.

Dritz stay tape has been added to my wishlist.

Can anyone explain why sale of this product is restricted to people over the age of 18? It doesn't look that exciting to me.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Acorn on February 12, 2018, 12:02:33 PM
The little grip rings I ordered for my quilting ruler were restricted to over 18s as well!
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Francesca on February 12, 2018, 12:11:18 PM
The only thing I could think of was swallowing by accident? But that should just be a warning for no one under 3, not stoping purchase unless you're 18.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Vezelay on February 12, 2018, 12:11:57 PM
I use Vilene Bias tape (http://www.vlieseline.com/Products/Tapes/Bias%20Tape) or this knit stay tape (https://www.sewingworkshop.com/shop/Fusible-Stay-Tape-1-2-White-p38176322) - both fusible. I have both in black and white and tend to use whichever I put my hand on first. I fuse it to the back shoulders over the seam line and sew through it. 

PS The Vilene tape must be safer than the Dritz as it's available on Amazon to any age-group. However it does say "washable up to 40" :D
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: maliw on February 12, 2018, 17:11:50 PM
I'm like Mozzy I recycle ribbons from RTW garments and sew in with the shoulder seam. I've also bought 1/4" tape and used that.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: sewingj on February 12, 2018, 21:00:20 PM
I`m  pleased to see that I am not the only one saving ribbon off RTW - some of it is really pretty!

I`m all in favour of using something that I`ve got for free rather than buying more stuff
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Acorn on February 12, 2018, 21:40:13 PM
And I thought I was being so clever when I started doing exactly the same thing!   :P

(I was - I just wasn't the only one!)
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Lachica on February 12, 2018, 22:47:47 PM
Nice to know I'm not the only one to save ribbon to use for this. I use whatever's to hand, I've given up matching colour as the overlocking covers most of it.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: arrow on February 13, 2018, 01:45:58 AM
Sometimes the right type overlock seam can give enough hold, other times I use plain bias biding or fish bone weave ribbon.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on February 13, 2018, 11:53:59 AM
Another one who saves those ribbon hanging loops, and uses them sometimes for shoulder seams  0_0

But have you noticed how many people wear tops with them hanging out of the arm holes?  I so want to tell them they can (and indeed should) cut them off!
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Francesca on February 13, 2018, 13:25:30 PM
Another one who saves those ribbon hanging loops, and uses them sometimes for shoulder seams  0_0

But have you noticed how many people wear tops with them hanging out of the arm holes?  I so want to tell them they can (and indeed should) cut them off!

You've shamed me as I just looked down to find I was exhibiting one such loop and have now cut it out.
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on February 13, 2018, 16:37:04 PM
You've shamed me as I just looked down to find I was exhibiting one such loop and have now cut it out.
Hahaha, you've made my day, well done  0_0
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: sewingj on February 13, 2018, 16:41:23 PM
At Christmas one of the "celebrity" University Challenge competitors had a ribbon looping across the top of her shoulder - I couldn`t concentrate on anything else
Title: Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (knits)
Post by: Gernella on February 25, 2018, 10:00:30 AM
I found some interfacing on Ebay that was about half and inch wide and in the middle there was a 'string' running through it.  Nearly run out now but prior to that I just used half inch cotton tape.