The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Technical Help => Topic started by: b15erk on September 13, 2021, 19:33:35 PM
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Why do I do this to myself?
I picked the pattern, decided on the fabric I was going to use and started to lay it out. Only after I had opened it out, did I realise that there was a beautiful large floral design I wasn't seeing when the fabric was folded up.
Now I have created a problem. I would love to have one of the big floral motifs on the back, but this would result in a lot of wastage. It would also mean that I needed to replicate on the front, and I'm not sure I have enough fabric for that...
Any bright ideas as to how I can make this happen? I can always use a contrast for the front band, and the belt, but I need a back, 2 fronts and 2 sleeves out of the main fabric - at least.
Hoping someone will have a bright idea.
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Jessie
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Dont fold the fabric in the traditional way (ie in half). Maybe fold it by taking the selvedge edge to the middle and use it that way for the back so you can get the motif in and fit the fronts and sleeves around it? does that make sense?
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Thanks @Missie , I did something like that to get the pattern centred, but unfortunately there didn't seem to be enough fabric left, to cut the other pieces out in pattern. I think the only way to sort this is to forget trying to get a big flower on the back... :'(
I think I may dwell on it for a while...
Jessie
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Would it help if you did some piecing? I'm thinking the fronts won't be big enough to have a full motif, so maybe you could get away with adding a seam at the waist? Of course, this may not help at all...
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Would it look right if you used the contrast for the sleeves as well as the belt and front bands?
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Thanks girls, your advice, as always, is very much appreciated.
I've decided I really like this fabric, and don't want to mess it up. So, I'm choosing another fabric for the first Kimono - I know, it's a cop out, but one with a purpose. By doing this - much like making a toile, I'll be able to see 1) how the size works out. I know it comes up large, but there is no indication of ease on the pattern. Then b) I will then cut out a full pattern, so that I can position the motif more accurately, so that I won't waste fabric.
Onwards and upwards, now to choose another fabric... :facepalm: :S
Jessie
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After great difficulty I got started on this. All cut out, even used contrast fabric for bands etc. I've even got as far as sewing the belt.
And there it stopped just as I came to the in seam pocket. I knew this was a stinker, as I spent a lot of time figuring it out for BF, even making samples...
Could I remember how I did it? absolutely couldn't. Even the samples didn't jog my memory. So, I decided to follow the Sandra Betzina method to the letter - as it happens, there are not many letters to follow... The instructions are sparse, and the method complicated, and impossible to make a decent pocket as far as I can see. See pics
I think I've decided how to proceed, and I'm going with a Hong Kong finish for the seams, and binding on the pockets - although the flat fell seam looks very neat, the HK seam adds a little weight, and looks rather nice.
I just hope this decision means I can get some momentum going...
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Jessie
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Progress at last! I've decided on Hong Kong seam finishes for this project, and after a great deal of huffing and puffing, the two shoulder seams are done, and looking rather nice.
Next step is pockets. These have dominated my life for weeks, but I now have a solution courtesy of Catherine Daze! Tutorial is here: In-Seam Pocket (https://blog.cyberdaze.org/2020/06/20/inseam-pockets/)
This looks like a very easy way of achieving the Vogue pocket, now I just need to figure out how to bind the pockets, without having bulk from the binding fold over, at the seam edge...
Jessie
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That’s a nice bulk free method. I’m sure I have instructions for that somewhere from a Claire Shaeffer book on pockets. But I do like to see photos.
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That looks great @b15erk .
That's not the same fabric as in the original post is it? Both are lovely btw and just my thing/colours.
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Well spotted @Missie ! I decided to use a different fabric as I was having difficulty with pattern placement (I will get back to it)
@Ohsewsimple , I've just done a sample, and it is so much more straightforward than the Vogue method, whilst giving the same result - it also makes it far easier to bind the pockets without them making bulky seams
I'm a Happy Bunny today - only thing is, I can't crack on, as we have to pick Theo up shortly... :S
Jessie
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I have made progress! This has been a very slow sew for such a simple garment. I suppose it would have been easy if I had whizzed it up on the overlocker, but as these are gifts, I wanted them right.
Well, much progress yesterday. Pockets are in! Thank you Catherine Daze! Very easy method which I will use again.
I made another couple of samples to figure out working order for HKong seams, and I've now I know what I'm doing, I can move on.
A small setback binding on one of the pockets - I'd cut the binding too narrow... It was late, I was careless and it looks untidy. :headbang: So, first job, unpicking... :rolleyes:
I'm going to do the front band and the belt today, and I can do some HK binding in between - I have miles of binding to cut, and my cutting board is chewing it up!
Jessie
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Your perseverance with this is commendable @b15erk the fabric is lovely and looks like a bad job would show with the hang of it. Truly finished off.
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That's very kind of you @Gernella !
Actually, this has been a learning curve for me, as I'm also teaching my friend. She wants to do the Kimono 'properly', so I'm helping along with techniques. I've learnt such a lot on this project alone simply by rooting around for better techniques instead of my usual method of fudging it!
The fabric isn't helping me on this, as it is very fine and fluid, so lots of spray starch is being used. :rolleyes:
Jessie
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My Mojo left home recently, and I decided to entice it back yesterday with a nearly new project.
Same pattern, just downsized it for Lilya, and began again, writing down the working order of the HKong seams. In fact I just drew it to an approximate shape and size - it isn't a complex pattern.
Oh my word! What a difference using cotton fabric which doesn't slip, just behaves beautifully.
Nearly finished, and I would have done well to have done this first, before tackling the 'slinky' fabric.
The only thing I'm not too sure about is the pocket placement. I made a mistake with the first Kimono, completely my error, but the second is for Lilya, and I'm unsure where to place the pockets. So, it will be a 'best guess'...
The fabric I'm using is left over from a dressing gown I made for DD last year - very sustainable. It started life as a set of used duvet/bedding from a lady on FB - £5! I just loved the colour and design.
I will have pics a little later - I haven't yet got to the sewing machine!
Jessie
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TaDahhh! Lilya's Kimono is now finished!!
No idea if it will fit, but it looks nice - well I think so. It was meant as a Christmas present, but they are now going to get their holiday in Turkey - after many setbacks, and I thought this would be nice for her.
I intend to finish DD's gown today, so we can pass them both over when we collect the doggies on Friday.
So, here it is.
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Jessie
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Beautiful Jessie, and so well made as well. Hope Lilya enjoys wearing this - such a lovely colour and I believe she has dark hair?
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So beautiful :loveit:
BB
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That is lovely @b15erk . The colours are so vibrant, love it. :loveit:
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That’s great. So nice and bright!
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This is so gorgeous <3
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Love it! I'd wear it if it was my size!!
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Beautiful! She'll love it.
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Thank you so much girls! This was made in order to iron out some problems I was having with the Kimono I'm making for DD. Not so much the making as I went through that with BF, to help her along with it. My problems were with the Hong Kong seams and the order I needed to do them in.
I now have comprehensive notes, and directions to websites, and I'm able to continue with DD's gown - pics tomorrow (fingers crossed!)
Jessie
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Those Hong Kong seams look so smart!
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Glorious, love the fabric. :perfect10:
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Oh my gosh jessie. That is absolutely beautiful and the fabric is gorgeous. Lilya is a very lucky little lady!
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That’s stunning Jessie, one very lucky little girl.
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You know those jobs that you leave to the last minute because they'll only take five minutes? Well, this proved to be one of those...
Well, four hours later it's now finished, and ready to go.
Phheewww! :faints:
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Jessie
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Again absolutely beautiful Jessie, your daughter and Lilya are indeed very lucky young ladies. Now what about Theo - won't he be wanting a robe of some sort?
Have fun making your own robe.
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Stunning @b15erk. Hope they are both well worn.
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Thank you both for the kind words.
Kimonos were delivered last night - the earliest that we could due to Covid Regs, and both DD and Lilya were delighted, so I expect pics of her swanking round the pool... :dance:
I intend to make a few more of these, one for me and a couple for eldest DD and older GD. Should be a breeze now that I have two under my belt!
Jessie
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I expect pics of her swanking round the pool... :dance:
I intend to make a few more of these, one for me and a couple for eldest DD and older GD. Should be a breeze now that I have two under my belt!
Jessie
The colours and design are perfect for that in a nice hot place. Jealous, moi?
So we’ll see yours tomorrow then modelled with your nice warm socks and slippers :laughing:
Just not the same is it?
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Absolutely spot on @Ohsewsimple ! Me to a tee!
Lilya and DD will look far more elegant... Hmmm not too sure about that - Lilya doesn't sit still for long - unless she has a head in a book - very unlikely with sun, and a pool to hand... :laughing:
Jealous Moi! You bet! Apart from all the hoops they have had to jump through... :facepalm:
Jessie
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Those kimonos are absolutely gorgeous. No wonder they were pleased with them. Looking forward to seeing yours :P