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Messages - RachelB

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1
Technical Help / Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« on: March 19, 2024, 15:50:57 PM »

 :laughing:  Oh I’m sure he will!  But you can use a phone and a support of some kind.  I find phones or an iPad are invaluable for fitting. I can go back and look and zoom in as well. 

For the lines, make sure you draw ALL of them on.  It takes a bit of time but it is so worth it. The horizontal lines should be at right angles to the CF or CB.  The lines on the garment should be perfectly horizontal on the body.  If not that tells us where the problem lies.
I am sure he will, too.   :laughing:  I will definitely draw those lines.  I had never thought of that, but that will help a lot.   I have to look for my tripod.  I have one, but my sewing room seems to have swallowed it up.  I will go digging and see if it is in there.

2
Technical Help / Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« on: March 18, 2024, 18:16:14 PM »
The photo you’ve linked to here really doesn’t look the same as your toile you showed previously     It’s very difficult to assess using some other photo I’m afraid.  But I’d say this is not the same issue. 
To be able to assess a fitting problem properly it’s important to see the whole thing. 
I like to see a full front, full back and side photos, standing normally,  to be able to check.  There may be drag lines or wrinkles in one place but it doesn’t always mean that is where the problem is.  It can be caused somewhere else. 
I know it’s frustrating.  :(  Fitting is a whole subject on its own. 

I would also suggest that as @BrendaP said, make sure seam allowances are large.  I use a minimum of 1”.  Regardless of what the pattern allows, add to it.  That way you have plenty to alter the toile.  It is not necessary to keep making new toiles. The point of a toile is to check fit, rip, draw or scribble on it, add pieces of fabric in where needed.  You do this till you get it to fit.  If you keep making new ones you probably won’t know what you’ve done by the time you finish. 

Another tip I would suggest that I find absolutely essential in fitting people.  Use a ballpoint pen. Draw your waistline across the toile.  Draw the hip line across the toile.  Draw the back line about midway between the armhole across the back.  Draw the bustline across the toile.  Draw the centre front and  centre back if necessary on the toile.  Don’t add a zip or you won’t be able to adjust the centre back.  It’s often easier to use a centre front opening to pin yourself in if no one can help.  That’s where marking CF and CB is a good idea. 
Once the lines are all marked it’s easy to see if the lines are not level, if they tip up, down, sideways.  Anything else is just guess work!

Thank you so much!  I am going to tell my husband that he has to stay home and nearby when I am sewing so he can snap pictures.  :laughing:  This pattern has 3/8" seams so I will make them larger.  Drawing the bustline and center front and back is a great idea!  I did not think of that.  Thank you.

3
Technical Help / Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« on: March 18, 2024, 18:12:52 PM »
It looks as though your  fabric is wider at the front of the shoulder seams  than at the back.
Is this due to having raised the shoulders at the front to get rid of the gaping that you had? If you have raised the shoulders at the front then reduce the back shoulder seam allowance by the same amount as you increased the front shoulder seam allowance.
ETA I was also wondering the same as what @Ouryve has said: you appear to have some
pulling underneath the arms - possibly due to the seam being pulled forward.
The shoulders were raised.  I will adjust the seam allowance on the back.  Also, I will check the side seams.  Thank you.

4
Technical Help / Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« on: March 18, 2024, 18:11:20 PM »
Is the side seam still where it needs to be or has your fix pulled it towards the front?

Thank you.  I will check to see.

5
Technical Help / Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« on: March 18, 2024, 15:43:55 PM »
To my very inexperienced eye, that pic says the armholes aren't deep enough, but of course I may well be wrong.  Do you need to make it so tight?  A little bit looser fit would make wrinkles much less of an issue.
I fixed my front armhole gaping, which raised the armhole.  I think that is what brought on this problem.  I am not sure how to address the front armhole gaping problem without creating this one.

6
Technical Help / do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« on: March 18, 2024, 12:46:02 PM »
I am having these diagonal draglines on my shoulder blade as is pictured here.  I could not get a picture of my back because my husband was not at home to take it, but I am having the exact same issue as is in this picture I found by googling. I don't think I have a rounded back because I have very good posture.  It is something that people comment to me about.  Do I need to lengthen the back bodice to correct this fitting issue? Thanks.

7
Technical Help / Re: bias wrinkles with photo, finally
« on: March 10, 2024, 21:39:49 PM »
Just play with pinning or tacking the seams and see what effect it has.

Thank you.  Sadly, I only have a 3/8" seam allowances on this pattern instead of my preferred 5/8", so I don't have much to experiment with.  I redrew the back bodice, raising the right shoulder and the lower armhole by 1/2".  I don't know if that is enough, but hopefully it will help and then I can get a better idea of how much I need. When I cut it out, I am going to cut 5/8" seams so that will give me more the experiment with.

8
Technical Help / Re: bias wrinkles with photo, finally
« on: March 10, 2024, 21:36:04 PM »
If the neck is right you may need to add a bit to the armhole end of the shoulder seam so that the slope is a flatter angle.  You will need to experiment to see whether you need   to add in a bit to the front as well - maybe not.   Just do one bit at a time until you've eliminated all the issues. The armhole shape will need to move up with the shoulder

Thank you. I redrew the back bodice this afternoon and did separate ones for the right and left hand side.  On the right hand side I raised the shoulder seam by 1/2" and did the same to the lower armhole.   I am anxious to sew another muslin, but it will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.

9
Technical Help / Re: bias wrinkles with photo, finally
« on: March 10, 2024, 19:06:07 PM »
It looks quite clear to me in the photo that your right shoulder is higher than your left, not lower.  I think that can occur through always keeping your shoulder positioned to stop a bag sliding off.  The neck is ok so you need to change the angle of the shoulder slope and lift the armhole, then look again.
I have the same issue - it is surprising how different your shape can be each side.

Thank you so much.  I want to make sure I understand, so do I need to take a bigger or smaller shoulder seam on the muslin?  Will this lift the armhole, or is lifting the armhole a separate change?  Also, do I need to make that change just on the back bodice, or do I need to include those changes on the right side of the front bodice too? 

10
Technical Help / Re: bias wrinkles with photo, finally
« on: March 10, 2024, 13:31:57 PM »
Maybe your right shoulder is lower than your left so maybe lifting that would help. Other wise i think maybe the pattern needs a tuck between the armhole and waistline. Is it the same on the front or back only?

Looking again at photo your left shoulder blade seems more prominent than the right so that could be where the problem lies. Our bodies are not the same on both sides. Are you right or left handed?
Thank you.  I did not realize that about my shoulder blades, but when I look, I see that.  I will try adjusting the shoulder.  Also, I think I am going to take out the side seam and see where it falls naturally.  I am right handed.

11
Technical Help / Re: bias wrinkles with photo, finally
« on: March 10, 2024, 13:29:27 PM »
Whilst I have no experience of fitting things that tight, I would suggest that you think about how and which way would you smooth/push/pull the fabric to smooth out those wrinkles - that could be where the problem lies.  In this instance it looks like the right hand armhole and shoulder would need raising a tad, or it could be just the side seam is a bit too long - but don't take my word for it, as I say, I have no experience with things like this  :S
Thank you.  I am wondering if the side seams might not be the same. I moved the dart down on the front so I may have messed up the length. 

12
Technical Help / bias wrinkles with photo, finally
« on: March 09, 2024, 21:23:25 PM »
I finally have a photo of the fitting problem I have been having. When I posted about this before, a couple of responders asked for a photo.  The bias wrinkles are on the right back bodice and can be seen in the picture.   I bought a book called The Sew/Fit Manual and it says that bias wrinkles  indicate that something is too wide and too long. But, I am not sure what is too wide and too long, since I don't really have these wrinkles on the left hand side of the back bodice.  When I was sewing several years ago, I never had this problem, and those clothes still fit.  I can't imagine what has happened.  Does anyone know how to fix this?

13
Patterns Discussion / Re: upper bust measurement question
« on: February 26, 2024, 02:58:41 AM »
@RachelB if the pattern is drafted for a B cup then yes the upper bust or chest measurement will be approximately 2” smaller than the full bust measurement.  This does not mean that the pattern will measure that amount.  There has to be some wearing ease so that you can breath and move.  So measuring a pattern may not help you.
If you know a pattern is designed for a B cup and you only have the full bust measurement then subtract 2” to give you the upper bust measurement.

Thank you.  That is what I will do.  I tried to find the location on the pattern of the upper bust, and when I measured, my amount was too far below what I know it should be close to, so I will just go with the 2".

14
Patterns Discussion / Re: upper bust measurement question
« on: February 24, 2024, 20:57:56 PM »
There are a few indies with cup size options in some of their styles - I've come.across this in a few, including somebLiesl & Co and Itch to Stitch patterns as well as, of course, Cashmerette, who go up to a G/H cup and support making bigger adjustments, if needed.
Thank you. 

15
Patterns Discussion / Re: upper bust measurement question
« on: February 24, 2024, 20:57:33 PM »
If you are trying to calculate how much of a full bust adjustment you need to make, the upper bust/under arm measurement is taken.  Then the over bust/maximum circumference measurement is taken.  The difference between the two is what defines the cup size.  If you are greater than a B cup then you will have to make a FBA to the pattern.

Personally, I'd say that the upper bust is more useful for defining which size of pattern you need as this is determined by your build - I once bought a (UK) size 16 pattern for the bust size and the shoulders were hanging off me!  There are lots of video tutorials out there showing you how to work this out and how to make a FBA.  I even found one for T-shirt patterns that then 'lost' the adjustment in the side seam and hem (the hem at the front dipped but when worn it looked level).

Thank you.  I am trying trying to find my size using Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide technique.  Measuring from armhole crease to armhole crease did not work for me in determining the size because it put me in a size larger than I had been sewing, which definitely won't work.  Someone who uses this technique told me to use the upper bust.  My pattern does not give upper bust, but only full bust.  The pattern is drafted for a B cup which should be the upper bust 2 inches smaller, but I just want to be sure. 

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