16
Courses & Classes / Re: Recommendations for Diploma/Certificate to Teach Sewing in Schools?
« on: February 25, 2024, 14:11:55 PM »
Deleted- answered the wrong question.
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17
Sewalongs and Competitions / Re: 2024 Jeans Sew Along
« on: February 22, 2024, 15:50:03 PM ». . . only to discover the button guard has come away from the front. I have ordered some new buttons because there’s no way I can get the current ones off and will have to bodge a new button guardWhat an infuriating thing to happen after all that work and your perfect top stitching.
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I probably would have sworn some very, very nasty words.
Will you replace the button extension or use it as a design opportunity for a creative solution?
19
Technical Help / Re: question about drag lines
« on: February 17, 2024, 17:11:53 PM »
@RachelB
As you are fitting solo, I wondered if it would help to do as much as you can on the pattern before the first fitting toile/muslin.
Alexandra Morgan has a useful collection of fitting and pattern making videos on her You Tube Channel which is where I get the links in ths post.
https://youtu.be/dv8bNng19-A?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/EMsnw1S2g14?feature=shared
I believe that clearly marking the balance (reference ) lines on the toile is essential to be able to diagnose fitting issues and establish a a good fit.
https://youtu.be/-VpZ6YIrycg?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/urfLcvNLIDo?feature=shared
Here on a pants pattern she shows how to prepare the balance reference lines and explains some of the adjustments to prepare the pattern before making a toile/muslin.
https://youtu.be/qZ0n_73H4h8?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/uQnPToWwb8c?feature=shared
For fitting a bodice, the shoulder is one is the first fitting issues to assess and deal with. It's always a good idea at some stage to work out what your own shoulder slope is.
Also,it's helpful to know how to work out what the shoulder slope of a pattern is and then how to alter the pattern to revise the slope.
This video is about working out the actual shoulder slope of a sewing pattern.
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared
This video is about how to find the degree of slope of the shoulder slope line on the pattern. Toward the end of the video, she touches on working with a front pattern angle and a back pattern angle which can be useful when working with a pattern that has been adjusted for a forward shoulder or slanted for style shoulder lines.
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared
Once you know what your shoulder slope is, including any forward shoulder adjustment, it's worth making a template to save yourself time and trouble with any future patterns.
And in case a forward shoulder adjustment is of interest. She shows 2 methods in the linked The first is the common visual line shift and the second is a combination adjustment that includes an armhole shape fitting adjustment at the across back and across chest levels.
https://youtu.be/jSwONVfA0Ow?feature=shared
As you are fitting solo, I wondered if it would help to do as much as you can on the pattern before the first fitting toile/muslin.
Alexandra Morgan has a useful collection of fitting and pattern making videos on her You Tube Channel which is where I get the links in ths post.
https://youtu.be/dv8bNng19-A?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/EMsnw1S2g14?feature=shared
I believe that clearly marking the balance (reference ) lines on the toile is essential to be able to diagnose fitting issues and establish a a good fit.
https://youtu.be/-VpZ6YIrycg?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/urfLcvNLIDo?feature=shared
Here on a pants pattern she shows how to prepare the balance reference lines and explains some of the adjustments to prepare the pattern before making a toile/muslin.
https://youtu.be/qZ0n_73H4h8?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/uQnPToWwb8c?feature=shared
For fitting a bodice, the shoulder is one is the first fitting issues to assess and deal with. It's always a good idea at some stage to work out what your own shoulder slope is.
Also,it's helpful to know how to work out what the shoulder slope of a pattern is and then how to alter the pattern to revise the slope.
This video is about working out the actual shoulder slope of a sewing pattern.
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared
This video is about how to find the degree of slope of the shoulder slope line on the pattern. Toward the end of the video, she touches on working with a front pattern angle and a back pattern angle which can be useful when working with a pattern that has been adjusted for a forward shoulder or slanted for style shoulder lines.
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared
Once you know what your shoulder slope is, including any forward shoulder adjustment, it's worth making a template to save yourself time and trouble with any future patterns.
And in case a forward shoulder adjustment is of interest. She shows 2 methods in the linked The first is the common visual line shift and the second is a combination adjustment that includes an armhole shape fitting adjustment at the across back and across chest levels.
https://youtu.be/jSwONVfA0Ow?feature=shared
20
The Haberdashery / Re: Kingstar Metallic - 5 new colours (Feb 2024)
« on: February 14, 2024, 14:09:04 PM »Link doesn’t work @Morgan. If it’s Facebook story rather than a post, it disappears after a day or so.How strange - the link takes me to the post on Somac Threads' FB page.
Anyway, it's just information right now. I'm just happy that we'll get a metallic purple and hoping there will be a metallic black as well.
21
The Haberdashery / Kingstar Metallic - 5 new colours (Feb 2024)
« on: February 14, 2024, 10:35:56 AM »
Heads up from Somac Threads that 5 new colours of Kingstar Metallic will be available from the end of Feb 2024, including 2 different purple shades.
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/yePvQd9PAK1K5VNH/
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/yePvQd9PAK1K5VNH/
22
Technical Help / Re: question about drag lines
« on: February 13, 2024, 22:13:52 PM »
Probably a bit too late to the party -
After checking the front & back Stylearc photos I think there are 2 different fit issues going on abd probably more.
1 Neckline balance - on each example there is some excess fabric across the upper chest.
https://youtu.be/rxGucflvQb8?feature=shared
2. The diagonal/comma shape draglines on the back suggest that the shoulder slope is incorrect indicated by the armhole being set too low. The armhole needs to be lifted. It's worse on one model as the dress is too snug around the waist and slightly too long in the bodice.
Also, I suspect that the across back width is a little too wide.
After checking the front & back Stylearc photos I think there are 2 different fit issues going on abd probably more.
1 Neckline balance - on each example there is some excess fabric across the upper chest.
https://youtu.be/rxGucflvQb8?feature=shared
2. The diagonal/comma shape draglines on the back suggest that the shoulder slope is incorrect indicated by the armhole being set too low. The armhole needs to be lifted. It's worse on one model as the dress is too snug around the waist and slightly too long in the bodice.
Also, I suspect that the across back width is a little too wide.
23
Events / Historical Wedding dresses Exhibition - from 14 Feb - 17 March 2024
« on: February 13, 2024, 21:43:56 PM »24
A Good Yarn / Re: Fitting a knitted garment
« on: January 17, 2024, 10:11:51 AM »
Coming at this from a different angle -
I have a garment pattern making softward package (now very old) that can be set for sewing knitting ir weaving. Create the pattern, then enter the details from the swatch (stitches & rows) and the programme creates simple row by row shaping. You maintain the knitting/crochet/weaving pattern but follow the shaping for the row number. It works well.
Garment Designer
https://www.cochenille.com/garment-designer/
They also have a Stitch painter programme
Since this software became available, more programmes and knitting pattern generators have been created. Some are more sophisticated than a simple shaping guide.
Some are free some are paid for.
https://knitanything.com/index.php?route=information/samplePattern
https://app.dreamknit.com/
https://knitsthatfit.com/
There are others. Ravelry has discussions about these things too
I have a garment pattern making softward package (now very old) that can be set for sewing knitting ir weaving. Create the pattern, then enter the details from the swatch (stitches & rows) and the programme creates simple row by row shaping. You maintain the knitting/crochet/weaving pattern but follow the shaping for the row number. It works well.
Garment Designer
https://www.cochenille.com/garment-designer/
They also have a Stitch painter programme
Since this software became available, more programmes and knitting pattern generators have been created. Some are more sophisticated than a simple shaping guide.
Some are free some are paid for.
https://knitanything.com/index.php?route=information/samplePattern
https://app.dreamknit.com/
https://knitsthatfit.com/
There are others. Ravelry has discussions about these things too
25
Sewalongs and Competitions / Re: Warm and Cosy contest - Jan & Feb 2024
« on: January 17, 2024, 09:39:21 AM »
What a lovely project and I love that you shared your process.
I'm a fan of making outfits rather than orphans so it's great to be able to adapt patterns that we've already fitted.
I'm a fan of making outfits rather than orphans so it's great to be able to adapt patterns that we've already fitted.
26
In the wardrobe / Re: Fabric Stash of doom
« on: December 12, 2023, 00:43:40 AM ». . . Now the large jersey stash is gone and I’m having trouble finding a lot that takes my fancy.Same here so recently I've ordered from some Print To Order outlets. It does involve higher prices than many knits off the boat, but there's usually the option to choose your preferred fabric base which I like. Also, there can be up to a 6 week wait for the print run. In effect they are limited edition prints.
Many of the designs these sites offer tend to be for children and even the small range of adult patterns have only a couple that suit my taste . Even so more 'adult' designs are being offered.
Pattern Happy fabrics - love their Bamboo Terry and the Bamboo Jersey with 5% lycra.
JJ and Hux Fabrics and Flamingo fabrics.
Nicole at DotsnStripes also offers one or two nice knit fabrics.
27
Fun with Fabric / Re: Where are you all buying your fabric?
« on: December 09, 2023, 17:44:52 PM »I've just bought some lovely fabric from Lamazi but Dalston Fabrics are also great (I've been to their bricks and mortar shop), ebay is also good.When I visit family in London I usually visit a couple of fabric shops
I go to Ridley Road and Dalston fabrics only when I know which project I need the fabric for and I set a limit for my spending. There is so much stacked floor to ceiling there that it's tempting to go bonkers buying on impulse. That said, I usually come away with with a couple of impulse buys.
I like the back room with all the shelves and am sorely tempted by some of the wools at the back but I rein myself in especially I already have have fabric for three coats on my project to do list.
28
In the wardrobe / Re: Project Queue
« on: December 09, 2023, 17:24:20 PM »
Mostly I sew only for me, yet at times I do choose or agree make a few items for other people
Like you, I like to take a somewhat organised and practical approach to my sewing projects.
This afternoon I've started preparing a couple of Kimino robes I decided to make as Christmas gifts.
Yesterday I finished a Tunic intended as a gift for a friend.
After that will be 2 projects I agreed to do.
For my own projects -
I treat fitting/creating/adapting patterns as completey separate projects from making up the real items.
About my sewing projects list, items either must stand alone eg a coat or they must become an outfit- no orphans allowed. That means if two or three items make up an outfit then all the pieces get sewn in sequence to avoid stranded items rather than a completed outfit.
At any time, I usually have 1 or 2 projects in the planning/prep stages, alongside 3 or 4 projects cut, prepped and ready to sew. I work through the ready to sew pile and when I get to the last one, I cut out
I don't switch projects to make up similar colours if that breaks up the outfit sewing.
Usually I have a couple of projects in the planning prep stages. I like to cut out 3 or 4 projects and then work through them. When I get to the last one, I cut out 3 or 4 more.
Like you, I like to take a somewhat organised and practical approach to my sewing projects.
This afternoon I've started preparing a couple of Kimino robes I decided to make as Christmas gifts.
Yesterday I finished a Tunic intended as a gift for a friend.
After that will be 2 projects I agreed to do.
For my own projects -
I treat fitting/creating/adapting patterns as completey separate projects from making up the real items.
About my sewing projects list, items either must stand alone eg a coat or they must become an outfit- no orphans allowed. That means if two or three items make up an outfit then all the pieces get sewn in sequence to avoid stranded items rather than a completed outfit.
At any time, I usually have 1 or 2 projects in the planning/prep stages, alongside 3 or 4 projects cut, prepped and ready to sew. I work through the ready to sew pile and when I get to the last one, I cut out
I don't switch projects to make up similar colours if that breaks up the outfit sewing.
Usually I have a couple of projects in the planning prep stages. I like to cut out 3 or 4 projects and then work through them. When I get to the last one, I cut out 3 or 4 more.
29
In the wardrobe / Re: Fabric Stash of doom
« on: December 09, 2023, 16:59:49 PM »
Plenty of company.
I feel very happy following a recent sorting out of the fabric stash and separating out and passing on the pieces I knew I'd never use.
The other choice I made is to sew up the precious fabrics for everyday wear items and stop saving them for something special that never quite happens.
What remains is still a sizeable stash and actually I'm rather happy with it. There are many pieces I adore and am looking forward to making them up into their projects. I do not feel under any pressure to get it all sewn up quickly and accept these lovely projects will be made when they happen.
I still buy fabric, but am rather choosey about what I buy these days and mostly know what the project will be when I buy it. Even if it will be a couple of years before it actually gets made that's fine.
I feel very happy following a recent sorting out of the fabric stash and separating out and passing on the pieces I knew I'd never use.
The other choice I made is to sew up the precious fabrics for everyday wear items and stop saving them for something special that never quite happens.
What remains is still a sizeable stash and actually I'm rather happy with it. There are many pieces I adore and am looking forward to making them up into their projects. I do not feel under any pressure to get it all sewn up quickly and accept these lovely projects will be made when they happen.
I still buy fabric, but am rather choosey about what I buy these days and mostly know what the project will be when I buy it. Even if it will be a couple of years before it actually gets made that's fine.
30
What lies beneath... / Re: Useful Resource - Bra Making, fitting and drafting
« on: November 04, 2023, 20:58:52 PM »
There are a few private FB groups on bra making where several members are knowledgeable and helpful.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2008750892676120/?ref=share
https://www.facebook.com/groups/bramakingforum/?ref=share
https://www.facebook.com/groups/bramaking101/?ref=share
And a very useful private FB group for selling/buying Bra making supplies UK based.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/3243280355750744/?ref=share
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2008750892676120/?ref=share
https://www.facebook.com/groups/bramakingforum/?ref=share
https://www.facebook.com/groups/bramaking101/?ref=share
And a very useful private FB group for selling/buying Bra making supplies UK based.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/3243280355750744/?ref=share