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Messages - Elnnina

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541
Patterns Discussion / Re: Independent pattern companies
« on: September 12, 2019, 11:12:41 AM »
I have just been rewatching the Full Busted DVD in particular the part where Marta is tissue fitting two well endowed ladies, the largest amount of FBA Marta had to make on a shoulder princess seam was three inches and she spread this over the two front parts of the panel.  I was hoping that it might have been a bigger figure but no such luck.  However Wrenkins I am sure we can get you there somehow or other - we just need to keep on thinking how!!!!!  The two patterns that Marta has used on her DVD are both McCalls - one she calls a side panel is 5335 and the other a shoulder princess seam is 5242.  The pattern 5335 definitely has all the preprinted extra lines for creating a FBA.  Sadly both the patterns are discontinued but these are available as uncut and factory folded patterns in the USA - you just have to go looking.  (when I first got the Full Busted DVD I made a note of the patterns Marta had used and those I was more interested in so started combing the internet for these - thinking that I can then copy exactly what Marta was doing and it is working)

In the past Wrenkins I think you mentioned that you thought princess seams were a bit 'dowdy looking' but they are not if that is the best sort of shaping for your particular body.  Going back to the normal style of bodice, i.e. with side bust dart and a waist dart if these are too big then I personally think they draw attention to the bust whereas the princess seaming flatters the bust.  I first came across princess seaming when I was still in my teens and just fell in love with them and again in the past I have used both the shoulder princess seams and the armhole princess seams, and guess what in those far distant days I had to hand neaten all the seams with blanket stitch and these were on dresses - it seemed to take forever but something I was prepared to do.

542
For Sale, Wanted & Free to a good home / Re: Fabric For Sale
« on: September 11, 2019, 10:54:51 AM »
Good morning Effie. just to say that my fabric has arrived this morning, and at first look it is lovely.  Will certainly be a nice print to wear on a miserable day.  Thank you again for such a speedy despatch.  Just one question - have you washed this, if not I will pop it into the machine later on once back from my Xray.

I do like shopping at 'Efemera's emporium' !!!!  When is the next sale????

Thanks again.

543
Patterns Discussion / Re: Independent pattern companies
« on: September 10, 2019, 16:14:37 PM »
Ohsewsimple that is an excellent article and one I have printed off.  That is a good article and explains very well how the various pattern fronts  are cut and labelled, and that if you are a D cup fitting in a bra you do not necessarily need the D pattern piece as that is for us much larger ladies.

My fingers are crossed that somehow or other both Annie and Wrenkins can get their heads around this and find a way to get the fit they are needing.

It has taken me years and years to finally get the best fitting princess line seam and at this moment the shoulder version is better.  I probably need to alter the armhole version by taking the seam up higher in the armhole.  I noticed when there was a TV programme called The Queen's Green Planet back in April 2018 Radio Times featured HM on the front cover and HM was wearing a beautiful silk dress with armhole princess seams and these are indeed higher up than normal and it does look right - see I saved the cover on this especially to inspire me when I try this again.

544
Patterns Discussion / Re: Independent pattern companies
« on: September 10, 2019, 14:29:35 PM »
Thank you both for your comment!!!!!  Sadly having a rather larger bust has haunted me all my adult life, and I know only too well just how awkward it is to get a decent fit.  I have often roped in Twopence to help me with fitting, and even with Connie's Slopers I have had to drop the bust shaping to suit my figure.

However having come to the conclusion that it is 'princess line' shaping that suits me, I will continue to try and vary my outfits a wee bit but keep the princess line seaming, and it will be back to the numerous toiles just to ensure that what I am trying to create is right for me.  I go through copious amounts of calico - I am a good way through a 100mtr. bale of calico at the moment, and with the last Connie Sloper I had padded my dress form out so this is a tight fit on her thinking that that is my shape I can then fit closely to her and it should then be alright on me.  However I am about to venture in some stretch fabrics and I wonder how they will turn out.  Last time I sewed any stretch fabrics it was on a straight stitch machine with a ball point needle, well now I have more methods available with the various stitches on the sewing machine and also on an overlocker/coverstitcher - we shall see how I get on.

However Annie and Wrenkins do have a serious think about getting these slopers I think you might find  they are just what you are wanting.  If I can help any more please do ask.  I expect a huge yell from both of you that you have succeeded once and for all!!!!

545
Patterns Discussion / Re: Independent pattern companies
« on: September 10, 2019, 12:24:45 PM »
Hello Annie, I have been trying a couple of sloper patterns produced by Connie Crawford, to my knowledge there are three that she has produced with multiple choices for a fuller bust.  CS1301  is a shoulder princess seamed top, CS1302 is an armhole princess seamed top and then there is another one which I do not have which is an ordinary button through blouse top with traditional side bust darts and waist darts.  They come in multiple sizes  Miss sizes 8-20 and go right up to a H/I sizing, and Womens 1X -6X and again right up to H/I sizing.  So you select the size package, either Miss or Women and then within each package there are the different full bust pattern pieces.  From memory there might even be a Tee shirt type top. 

Try looking for these patterns particularly on IslanderSewing.com as they seem to have taken over Connie's patterns.  Of course these all come over from the USA so do think about this when and if you order, I believe the Customs will pounce on anything over the £15ish mark so beware.  Mine I had sent to my sister in Canada and she brought them over with her when she last visited me, as I had also bought a Grading Book which was quite expensive.  At the time my order came directly from Connie and I believe that she may possibly be ill as I suddenly got a notification that Islander Sewing were going to be dealing with her patterns.  Go and have a look and see - you may find something you like and that will save you a lot of time worrying about doing a FBA.

Incidentally I came across these sloper patterns in Threads Magazine of December/January  2014 called 'Add a Princess Seam' and the article involved was by Connie Crawford herself.

Hope this will be of some use to you.

546
Vintage Machines / Re: Cleaning a Singer 306
« on: September 10, 2019, 10:51:12 AM »
Deafoldbat - that is good that the finger shields are still made, - they are so useful, when I was doing my GCE, yes that long ago, I had yards and yards of a bias frill to roll hem and stitch by hand - this is probably when I bought my finger shield, as it was important to only pick up one thread when hemming this frill.

547
Vintage Machines / Re: Cleaning a Singer 306
« on: September 09, 2019, 10:33:22 AM »
I still have my finger shield bought way back in my teens.  When doing a lot of hand sewing it certainly saves the first finger on left hand from constant needle pricks and soreness.  Pity they are not made any more.

548
For Sale, Wanted & Free to a good home / Re: Fabric For Sale
« on: September 08, 2019, 16:17:49 PM »
Effie thank you so much, have sent money via Paypal.  Shall look forward to receiving this fabric - I know just what I am using it for, though haven't a clue what scuba is, but I loved the blues and the floral blues so what can go wrong.

549
For Sale, Wanted & Free to a good home / Re: Fabric For Sale
« on: September 08, 2019, 15:48:08 PM »
Hello Effie, oh yes please to the blue fabric, have you still go my details from last time?  Let me know and I will pay immediately with paypal.  Thanks so much.

550
Oh wrenkins you do make me laugh, but seriously what a useful cupboard that is going to be - so well done on persevering with your haggling - now you can show him exactly what it is for!

551
Sewing Machines / Re: How many machines do you have?
« on: September 04, 2019, 11:41:12 AM »
My collection of sewing machines are  my own Elna SU bought 1975 and still in use today.  My Mother's Bernina 830 Record bought in 1975 and which I inherited in 2002.  My own Bernina Artista 200 bought by me around 2010.  My own Bernina overlocker 1100A which I had to buy as a replacement overlocker in a hurry in 2003 three weeks before my daughter's wedding as my original Elna overlocker was playing up.  My own Bernina  2500 DCET  overlocker which is also a coversticher as well.  Then on a whim I found a 1925  CWS Federation hand crank which is waiting for me to clean and bring into use.  Up until 1975 I used to sew on my own Cosson bought from new way back in the 1960's and was a straight stitcher - that eventually went off to East Africa via a charity.  The only reason I have two Bernina overlockers is that I originally sold the Bernina 1100DA to an elderly friend who wanted a modern overlocker but felt she coud not justify the expense of a new one at her late age in life.  She was so happy to buy this from me but sadly shortly afterwards she learnt she had a terminal condition and was keen for me to have this back - and sadly my friend passed away and had never used this lovely overlocker.  I managed to get the larger overlocker the 2500 DCET as a pre demo model and at the time was the top of the range overlocker that Bernina made.

I would love a treadle machine but it has to have a black cast /wrought iron base but then it is finding space for this in my tiny home.

552
Embroidery and Embellishment / Re: Illuminated Alphabet designs
« on: September 04, 2019, 10:50:00 AM »
ooh some of these alphabets that you have listed Morgan are delightful - thank you, just hope they are what Imi is looking for.

553
Sewing Spaces and Furniture / Re: Cutting table
« on: August 29, 2019, 10:39:02 AM »
I have a Horn cutting out table one that has fold down sides, and the central part has two cupboards, extremely useful and as it is on wheels can be easily moved especially from room to room.  The difference this has made for me is vast it is only a few inches higher than my dining room table, but those inches make all the difference.  I acquired mine through the for sale columns in what was Sewing World Magazine.

I also have a Horn sewing machine cabinet, this I bought new from a sewing machine dealer.  Best thing ever!!!!  I also noticed at the time that he had many different Horn cabinets in his shop, and from time to time he sold these off and at a greatly reduced price - so it is worth finding a dealer that has several cabinets in their shop and keep your eyes open for when they may sell them off - yes these might be slightly marked, they may even be discontinued models, but what savings.  Sadly mine was too newer a model to be one of those.  Mine is an Australian cabinet that has the lid of the cabinet opening towards the back and this is supported by a fold out leg at the back of the cabinet.  Thus it makes a huge work area which I particularly wanted - mine is called  Sewmate 2 and is also known as a Koala Cabinet.

Sewingj I hope you find something that suits you.

554
In the wardrobe / Re: Simplicity 1067
« on: August 29, 2019, 10:26:15 AM »
I am curious Charlotte, you say your fabric is Loden and that is has also been boiled which closes it all down.  Was the fabric originally knitted and then boiled, and then where did you get this from.

A few years ago I was looking for Loden to make a coat with and all the samples I had were in fact a knitted fabric which is not what I was wanting.  Years and years ago I actually had a Loden coat and this was definitely a woven fabric and in Austria where Loden is used a lot as a very warm and sturdy coat for the climate in the mountainous regions it was a woven fabric so I am very confused.  In the end I gave up, but I would be interested to know more about your fabric and where you got it from.  Thanks.

With regards to your seams not laying flat have you tried using a clapper when you are pressing - lots of steam and then hold the clapper in place for a few minutes, another and cheaper option is to use a wooden rolling pin - preferably a new one that has not been used for pastry!!!  Give the seam a good steaming an then bang the daylights out of it with the rolling pin.

555
All the buttons have now been sewn on via the machine and a lot easier than I thought it would be - I was a bit anxious about the needle hitting the button and causing some damage to the machine/timing - but luckily I was able to alter the width needed and even managed to make the foot a bit higher in order to create a shank.  Now all that I have to do is get the buttonhole  chisel out and cut the buttonholes open.

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