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The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Syrinx on May 29, 2017, 16:52:07 PM

Title: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on May 29, 2017, 16:52:07 PM
I've agreed to go to my first affiliated side saddle competition. I'm borrowing one of my trainer's horses as mine aren't ready yet. However, I need a habit. Nothing fancy, just a nice modern habit.

There's only one pattern for this that I can find commercially - a Suitability one. One pattern for the jacket and one for the apron skirt. The jacket is an ok pattern according to some, but the apron is a bit of a nightmare, lots of darts, hard to fit etc.

Side saddle habits are fitted over a riding corset and they need to be elegant and flattering, not to mention very well fitted. Buying one new is pretty much only a made to measure option, buying second hand can be good but will need re-tailoring to fit. I figured, why not make one myself!? So I've committed to the show, and committed to making this outfit.

I'm currently having trouble sourcing my wool as it needs to be 32oz cavalry tweed. I'm not making matching riding trousers, but I'll be wearing some breeches as I'm not yet doing a class that needs a traditional or period costume (although I have found a jacket at the V&A that I am definitely going to be making once I am a professional jacket maker!).

I have never tailored anything to fit before and I've never made a jacket. I do make complicated quilts so I'm not too worried about piecing everything together, but I'm sure I'll be crying for help a great many times, especially when it comes to darts, and attaching sleeves, and getting my lining fabric (I think traditionally it's silk?) attached...

So I am feeling very crazy, but positive. You only live once and I feel like being able to make my own habits is a skill I can gain and will only be helpful. I can make all sorts of jackets afterwards with confidence.

Any help greatly appreciated, any books to read, or stitch types to look up, or anything else that might help my manic sewing (it needs to be done by the beginning of July!).

I will keep this updated as I go along, ups, downs, roundabouts, and unpicking included.

I'm hoping to look like an elegant person, but that depends entirely on my sewing!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on May 29, 2017, 18:53:51 PM
I'm no professional jacket maker or a horsewoman, but I made a 'riding jacket' for my steampunk wardrobe last year.  [And breeches, and a 'ride astride' skirt.  There's nothing you could want to make that doesn't have a YouTube vid or tutorial somewhere!  Have you checked out Pattern Review yet?

Is the modern sidesaddle skirt radically different to the historical ones?  I considered making one just for fun, as they look so lovely when bustled up for walking.

Where have you hunted [geddit] for your cavalry twill?  [And how is the 32oz criterion achieved?  How much of it weighs 32 oz?]
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on May 29, 2017, 19:17:08 PM
So the historical ones are full skirts that you sit on and button up to make a level skirt when walking. You can make them with a "safe" seam which is poppered or velcroed so will come undone if you fall. Modern ones are more of an apron - so you don't sit on it, but it does button up to give the impression of a skirt. Very odd shape as it's an apron marauding as a skirt. Some good pictures here https://dressedintime.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/hsf-2-innovation-side-saddle-safety.html about 1/3 of the way down.

I haven't looked at Pattern Review - are there tutorials on there?

I've been failing to find the cavalry twill - I have a thread going in the fabrics board for help! It's a very heavyweight fabric so that it hangs right and you look elegant ;) if it's too lightweight it looks silly and flaps all over the place, doesn't last so well and doesn't hang right. As a lot of the judging is on the elegance and poise of the rider, a good well fitting habit that sits right is essential! The go to weight is 32oz cavalry twill but my search just takes me to websites selling m2m trousers or jackets in 32oz cavalry twill!

It's 32oz per m (I think! I'm not a dressmaker) but whenever I do see some it is far too light at 2-300g which is way less than 32oz (900-1000g).

I definitely want to make a historical one (the V&A jacket is amazing) with a full skirt and petticoats etc. There are classes just for historical habits and concours d'elegance classes so it's well worth it. But you have to do a research and info write up to hand into the judges for your outfit and know all about the design and original wearer etc.

The more I write the more worried I am feeling!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on May 29, 2017, 19:25:22 PM
Don't worry- but I suspect that it may be hard to find other than begging an outfitter to sell you yardage [and they'd make you pay through the nose]
Maybe a specialist woollen mill?

I found a lovely navy, but as you say it was 'medium weight'

Would underlining work?  It's a brilliant way to add weight to fabric, and would also be a good way to reduce the sweaty factor- ie wool twill on the outside, underlined in a cotton twill for cooler total weight.  Historically appropriate too, and less itchy!

When you come to look for historical patterns, go to Truly Victorian first, and don't go near Reconstructing History!

Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on May 29, 2017, 19:33:51 PM
haha, I do know to steer clear of them!

Vena Cava do some lovely period equestrian riding outfits as well. Not like I spent a lot of last week drooling over vintage patterns or anything haha

I'm going to try a friend who's a professional costumer and see if she could locate some for me or if she knows anywhere to look.

I don't know, I do know it has to be wool twill with (probably) silk lining, no lining is absolutely not allowed and the skirt needs weighting appropriately as well to keep the hem straight and sat nicely. I do know people have a problem with lighter fabrics not standing up to the work and not sitting quite right and being very obviously not the correct weight. And sweating will happen in the mildly warm (and even the cold) with horses so it's a case of suck it up and look fabulous!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on May 29, 2017, 19:38:20 PM
I would underline, and line in whatever to hide the guilty secret.  There is a beautiful medium weight navy cavalry twill on one of my fave eBay sites 'The Italian Textile COmpany', they always sell very high quality stuff [by the half metre, watch your yardage!]

Here's a review of your pattern from PR

https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/73825
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on May 29, 2017, 19:59:17 PM
Thank you! I'll have a look :)
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: sewing in oz on May 30, 2017, 23:00:53 PM
I'm with DF - make normal fabric into 32oz by adding enough interfacing/underlining inside and hide the evidence!

Could you also conceal a "Chanel chain", but heavier weight than used in jackets, in the bottom hem between the fashion fabric and the lining?  That would help add "drop" and stability to the apron hem.  I think chain might work better than individual weights to give a smooth heavy finish.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: elisep on May 31, 2017, 14:31:02 PM
A woman after my own heart!! I'm into side saddle riding, but due to the fact that I live in Australia and have a difficult to fit horse (Morgan), I don't yet have my own side saddle. I'm hoping to finally have one this year.
I did, however, start my own modern habit. I  found some lovely navy italian wool at a factory sale. 5 metres will do a jacket and apron, it shouldn't be too difficult to find - I don't know what cavalry twill is, but something around about a wool melton weight should be suitable. As the other ladies have said, it is all in the inter-construction.
Get yourself a good book on tailoring (this one (https://www.amazon.com/Tailoring-Classic-Sewing-Perfect-Jacket/dp/1589232305) is my bible). I love the hand tailoring methods (pad stitching the hair canvas down etc), haven't actually tried the fusible methods yet but I will at some stage. I love sitting in front of the TV with my hand stitching! This is the ultimate as it gives you so much control. But it depends how much time you have!

For a pattern, I used the Suitability Hunt Coat and the ISSO apron pattern (supposed to be much better than the Suitabiliy one). The Hunt Coat will need to be lengthened for SS appropriate length - it should be grazing the back of the saddle. I recommend you make a toile or two for the coat - I had already made it for a regular riding coat so only needed to lengthen it and mark the cutaway - I recommend you toile it to test how the cutaway looks.
I made a couple of changes to the pattern when I made it as a riding coat. The undercollar is supposed to be cut out of felt or melton wool (I can't remember at present and I'm warm and cosy in bed...!) and is drafted without seam allowances... I added seam allowances (and altered the order of construction) to construct it like a regular collar. Also, the vent linings were drafted strangely so I changed these so that they made more sense and were easier to work with. I also made the collar a little bigger from memory, as the points were a little too small for my eye!

For the Apron, I ordered the ISSO apron pattern from here (http://www.thesidesaddlery.com/store/accessories/attire/attire_page/patterns.shtml). I haven't finished it yet (I can't hem it until I have a saddle to sit in to check the hem length and that it hangs correctly), but all indications are that it will be a good fit. I have underlined my fabric with a medium weight muslin/calico, as long as your lining colour is very close to the wool fabric, there is no reason you can't use an underlining between. Also, weight the hem using curtain weights/pennies etc to stop any flapping about. I'm fairly sure you'll find that most modern habits have a lined apron.

Hope that helps you. Feel free to ask me any questions about the two patterns or the tailoring methods - I'm definitely still learning myself, but hope that my experiences might help you!
I'll try and get a photo of the habit for you and a photo of the riding coat I made from the pattern last year as well, to give you an idea  :)
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: elisep on May 31, 2017, 14:37:26 PM
Forgot to say - are you on Facebook? The "sidesaddle riders" group is an excellent resource. There are quite a few experienced dress makers on there if you need help with anything side saddle related.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on May 31, 2017, 20:38:12 PM
Thanks, the ISSO is hard to get in the UK without being prohibitively expensive.

I've asked my neighbour's partner and he is 100% certain she can help with locating the fabric as she has been doing an awful lot of military uniforms and uses a tonne of the stuff generally. She's away until the weekend so I'll pop over for a chat then. I'm hoping she can help with the fit of the toile and any alterations to the pattern to make it better/easier/less difficult to sew! I'll also try and get her guidance on linings and interlinings and generally try and absorb all of her knowledge :)

It will all be lined, don't worry! And the hem will be weighted. My SS trainer is a stickler and reminded me that in some classes they are allowed to check the make up of your habit!

I'm hoping my machine can cope with the thickness of everything as it's just a bog standard Janome. I don't have an overlocker, or any of the other fancypants machines, though I may be able to have access to some.

I'm happy to tailor properly and hand stitch the canvas pad things that I think go in the chest/shoulder area (see my lack of knowledge!) but beyond being confident in my cutting out skills I'm a bit wobbly!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on May 31, 2017, 20:41:48 PM
I doubt if anyone checking could tell if you had used underlining or not

Hope you get it sorted without being bankrupted!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on May 31, 2017, 20:55:32 PM
I don't know, some of these judges are terrifying!

We were at a driving show a few years ago and got nailed because one of our lamps still had some unbuffed (not fully buffed) brasso on it. They do look that closely and check all the niggly places (and under the driving apron to see what shoes you are wearing!). In ss classes, especially the period habit classes they can (and do!) life skirts to check you have the right petticoats underneath and they are allowed to keep rootling through the layers to check everything matches date wise, style wise etc. They are pernicity. And I like to win ;) or at least attempt to win.

This habit will be my first in the hope of making more, including historical (though not historical sewing methods, I don't like hand sewing that much!) and hopefully I can make a few different aprons - general wear, and smart. I'd also like to tailor a couple of hacking jackets (the pattern comes with ss as an option on a normal hacking jacket), one in tweed and one in black for my other riding pursuits as my tailored AJ one is over a decade old now and though I haven't grown much, I could definitely do with a new one.

I think my neighbour can get fabric for me wholesale so that would be a bonus, or she might even have some spare knocking about as she's working on a big project for a film at the moment. I'll know more on Friday. I should get away with 3m to make up apron and jacket so not too much. And then the other bits - interlining and lining. But I've never ever done that before.

I did make a pair of shorts once. I made the fabric as well - a big patchwork of batik and applique squares that I made into shorts. I remember it being tricky but not impossible, and that they fit. No lining though. That was probably 11 years ago though... Oh and I made a cloak 6 years ago, which I still have and still wear, though I never did get around to lining the hood...lining scares me!

I'm getting slightly worried about the tailoring bit now, having watched a few youtubes and read a couple of tutorials :S
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on May 31, 2017, 21:06:14 PM
Meh- your first tailoring attempt might be far from perfect, but with Dark Side pernickety skills, you'll be fine.  Lots of handbasting, slow stitching, and you'll be fine.  FITTING is a different matter, but if you have someone to help you out, you'll be fine.
For period stuff, go for Truly Victorian, they are amazing.

Here are my 'riding' clothes [I can't stand horses, nasty big bitey things.  Might manage a hobby horse though...]

(http://i.imgur.com/EFLjdNy.jpg[img])http://i.imgur.com/c8c2Ax2.jpg[/img]
(http://i.imgur.com/3oIGnsj.jpg)

Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on May 31, 2017, 21:21:43 PM
Hah, hoping the pernickety skills will come in handy! But how does one attach a sleeve?!

Definitely getting my lovely pro clothes maker neighbour to help with the fitting! Would not be attempting that one my own. How does one even fit oneself when wearing a corset?!

Love that green jacket. There's a lovely braided riding jacket at the V&A that I desperately want to make, looks gorgeous. But that would be hurdling before I can crawl!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on May 31, 2017, 21:49:22 PM
Lol I love the green jacket too- that soutache braiding took ages, and very sore fingers.  The back is the best, it's a Game of Thrones design I snaffled off t'internet
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 01, 2017, 09:14:09 AM
Did you make the braiding yourself?

Here is the riding jacket I really want to make once I'm better at the whole sewing clothes thing. http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/cis/enlarge/id/2008BT6426
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 01, 2017, 10:31:49 AM
Well I sewed it all on by hand- you can do it by machine, but it looked more complicated to me!   It's special braid, like a double row of fine piping cord, and a thin thread runs through each side which you can pull up to make really tight curves.   It gives a lovely effect.
I looked at lots of historical outfits to get ideas, and thought the random cornelli was really nice for the lapels.  I went more pseudo-military for the cuffs, then the wolf sigil for the back.

(http://i.imgur.com/Yq5bIVU.jpg)
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Catllar on June 01, 2017, 16:43:53 PM
What do you mean" they go "rooting through your layers"?  That downright pervy! :|
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 01, 2017, 18:11:54 PM
They can lift the layers of the skirt, petticoats etc to make sure they all match and you are wearing the correct things under the habit. So 18th Century habit should have the correct 18th C petticoats
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: sewing in oz on June 02, 2017, 05:21:15 AM
Exactly how far can they "root through the layers"?? My knickers are nobody's business but mine  :o  :|
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 02, 2017, 07:55:32 AM
Well theoretically they could go all the way to check you are wearing split drawers (if that's the age and design of your habit) but they don't tend to do that! They just lift the edge of the skirt and take a look at the petticoats (if you have them) or to check you are wearing proper matched riding trousers, depending on your habit.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 02, 2017, 10:03:00 AM
I LOVE MY SPLIT DRAWERS!  They are absolutely the best thing ever, and essential under flowing skirts.  They always make the missus giggle too, it's all a bit 'what the butler saw' [and probably wished he hadn't] :devil: :devil:
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 12, 2017, 22:29:50 PM
So skirt pattern traced and cut and I've cut my calico toile as well. There are a lot of darts!

Spoke to my tailor friend who thinks I'm crazy but she said she would help me with the fit, poked and prodded me a bit and declared that darts aren't too bad and to keep the hem really long as you can always take it up but you can't make it longer.

There are a couple of places where it gives the line for size 6 (the smallest) and doesn't give info on where to move the line on larger sizes. I hope tomorrow morning as I go through stitching the skirt toile together it will become obvious.

I've also been instructed on where to get the cavalry twill, but not sure if they will sell to me as an individual. I'm waiting until I've cut the jacket toile out as well and then I'll measure how much calico I have left to see how much nice fabric I'll need.

Also discussed proper canvas to interface and padding it out etc and she has lent me one of her tailoring bibles which will 'explain everything' and I will be hopefully showing her how awesome my skills are ;) hah! She said not to use fusible as it will get a lot of use and unless you have a heat fress you'll end up with bubbles and it coming apart and that never looks good. It's a bit more work but worth it in the long run.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 12, 2017, 22:32:03 PM
If you use tailoring quality woven fusible, you'll be fine.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 12, 2017, 22:45:01 PM
It's more the use that can be the problem. Because it's so very fitted, and we riders get terribly hot and gross and bendy and move a lot, the fusible will eventually come off or warp or bubble and it won't give as sharp a look as proper tailors canvas (which I don't mind trying). As she makes an awful lot of this sort of stuff (film work) and has been a tailor for a long time, I'm happy to go by her rcommendation as I want the jacket to last as long as possible without looking old, and lots of the modern ones, with fusible just don't look good after 5 years. Especially compared to the vintage ones which were done pre fusible and are still going strong!

It also means I get to play with pad stitching and it seems a little easier than the fusible, having briefly glanced through her bible. I don't mind having a go, especially as I can "borrow" some help if I need it urgently.

I can't get over how many darts there are in this skirt though and whether they are big enough/in the right place for me. Hoping to have it made up for Wednesday as I'm meandering over to my trainer for a sit on the horse I'll be borrowing so I can wear it and see how it sits and how much hem needs to go up...
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 13, 2017, 10:58:20 AM
So I've sewn the toile together this morning. I actually had quite a bit of fun doing the darts!

I didn't pop any interfacing in as I don't have much and the calico seems to be heavily starched. I also don't have any velcro - I thought I did but can't find it! I did skipp all the hard bits of the instructions as they were all about adding the lining fabric and it's just a toile (please tell me that's right?!) to check for fit on me and the horse. I'm going to dig out one of my quilting safety pins in place of velcro and buttons for trying on horse. To be honest I'm still not entirely certain how it does up and how to fold it up or hang it!

I had no idea how to hang it so I plopped it on the table for a picture.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: b15erk on June 13, 2017, 11:11:21 AM
Good grief!  That is huge!  Look forward to watching your progress.

Jessie
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 13, 2017, 11:15:38 AM
Hah! Yes, there's an awful lot of fabric. And it's a very odd shape. As it's a modern skirt there's actually less fabric than in a full skirt. I can't even get my head around how much fabric is in a concours skirt!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 14, 2017, 18:18:55 PM
Took my massive bit of fabric and sat on horse today. Need to increase the back of knee darts to get the shape a bit better, and need to have less of a fold at the left hip drop. My trainer was lovely and pinned the hem to roughly the right shape. And decided that the right side needs to be hammed at about an inch. When on the horse it didn't seem like so much fabric!

I traced all 17 bits of pattern for the jacket last night and will cut them out properly tonight. I'll cut the toile tomorrow and sew it together and hope for the best and try and follow instructions. I'll only chop out the "fabric" ones and ignore the interfacing and lining ones (which I think is right - it is a calico toile). It will be done by the end of the week I hope and I'll pop to friend and beg help for fit and any problems I have made. Once it's all cut out I'll know how much cavalry twill I need to attempt to order.

I'll ring them tomorrow and see if they'll sell to me :) and then JL for canvas and I'll have to trawl around for a lining fabric.

On the topic of lining fabrics, are there any out there which are good with sweat/hot gross person underneath them that won't go rancid. I've looked in my old hacking jacket but it doesn't tell me what fabric it is sadly and I'd rather not make the wrong choice and have to rip it out and replace it!

I'm feeling confident about the skirt.

I'm not feeling confident about the concept of linings...(I mean HOW?!)

Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 14, 2017, 18:24:51 PM
Sounds exciting!

For linings, I love cupro [also sold as bemberg] which is an acetate silk-like fabric.  Very cool and pleasant to wear.

If your jacket toile works well, you can use the pieces as underlining for the real thing, which will give it extra oomph and make it last longer.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 14, 2017, 18:52:34 PM
Bemburg! I remember seeing that in the fancy tailoring bible book when I glanced through it! I didn't realise it was a fabric  :o

I'll give it a lookup and try and find some in a matching? colour - I assume matching is best. Navy is a bit boring though ;)

Oooh underlining - would that be as well as the canvas and lining? Not sure if that would make 32oz twill jacket very heavy? It's a whole new world of fun this clothes making malarkey. And I fear I've rather jumped in the deep end going straight for elegant tailored jacket and side saddle skirt. Although I am loving these darts - straight lines! Just like P&Q!

I read a bit of the tailoring book about padding the canvas with stitches and discovered that you actually make it bend around a bit as you stitch! Who knew!

I've been roasted today so haven't got as far forward as I wanted to - but my deadline of the weekend to have the toile done is vital as tailor friend is working on a film and is only back at weekends - nothing like a deadline!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 14, 2017, 19:00:23 PM
Yeah the whole point of pad stitching, steaming and other tailoring techniques is to make things 3D.  HAve you got a tailor's ham?  Indispensable for good tailoring.

The underlining is just to give extra body and durability, and isn't ABSOLUTELY vital for'normal' tailoring...you do keep saying how hard wearing this needs to be though.  the polish that underlining gives is really noticeable, especially for either very fitted garments, or very draped ones...

Lining can be a really gorgeous contrast, I love patterned linings, especially with some flat piping for added glam, it all ends up very stoosh.  You can find great ones online, especially places selling men's tailoring fabrics.  I used a shot one in the wife's coat...
(http://i.imgur.com/cvRUP5d.jpg)
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 14, 2017, 19:01:42 PM
And yes, it's pure wool, underlined in rescued poly-cotton from an old duvet cover, chest cand back canvas, padstitching etc.
It weighs a ton, but will last a looooong time
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 14, 2017, 19:11:42 PM
Ooooooh I love shot fabrics!

I'm just worried about stitching all of these layers together! Quilting not a problem, but clothes?!

A ham? I assume you don't mean of the pork variety?

It does indeed need to last - and hopefully make me look slim and elegant and amazing ;) :ninja:

I'm not sure I can be too adventurous with the linings, but maybe I can find a blue/purple shot lining? subtle but fun...

That coat looks lovely, hope she's pleased with it!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 14, 2017, 19:17:10 PM
The coat is practically hung up for display she's so happy with it- being  a little dot, she's never had a long coat that actually hits her in the right proportions, so she's in love with it!

There are fewer layers [in most places] than in a nasty fat quilt lol

The tailoring trims a lot of the bulk away from the seams, just keeping it to do its thing where needed.  One of the most useful techniques is spending a bit of extra time to catch stitch the seam allowances to the underlining, so all your seams stay lovely and smooth, curved OR straight.  Without underlining, you can't do that, as the stitches would mar the main fabric.

Blue/purple sounds GOOD
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Acorn on June 14, 2017, 19:40:01 PM
I'm watching this in silent (and fascinated) awe - but I do want to say that a shot blue/purple lining under navy blue sounds wonderful.   :D
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Ploshkin on June 14, 2017, 20:19:22 PM
If you will be having shoulder pads for the jacket  then you will need them for fitting the toile as they change things quite considerably.  (You can just stuff them in place when you try on the toile, they don't need stitching in.)
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 14, 2017, 20:26:58 PM
Yes, my tailor friend has given me "proper shoulder pads, it's so hard to find proper ones" which looks very confusing shape wise. I forsee lots of hand sewing in my future and I'm rubbish at it!

I'm rather winging it with a "how hard can it be?!" attitude which I'm sure will die as soon as this jacket toile is underway! The skirt has given me a false sense of security I think  :S
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 15, 2017, 16:22:15 PM
So I cut my fronts, back, sides and collar bits as well as the front facings and set off on my making a jacket toile journey.

It started so well, I remembered to stick all the lines and blobs on the right side and started sewing bits together as per pattern (ignoring the interfacing bits) and then I discovered I needed roll tape (I don't have any) so I cut two strips of calico and sewed them on (no idea what they do) and carried on. Got to welt pockets. I hadn't cut the bag bit as was in my linings pile and didn't think I needed it. Thought I'd read through the instructions and no idea what they were going on about once I looked at the pictures. So I did the flaps and have left them unattached. I am claiming it is because I haven't fitted the jacket yet and feel that needs doing first ;) Attached front bits, back bits, side bits. Realised I'd actually sewed the armholes shut so un did that bit (good job the whole lot is being done with machine basting) and looked ok.

Came to attach the undercollar and it wanted me to clip the neckline. I didn't want to as I'm certain it will need adjusting and I'd rather not have chunks cut out that I might need later. So I sewed it on with the clips. And it fit really really well!

I am amazing I thought. I was born to do this! Then I read the next instruction and all of my bravado vanished. I had no idea how to attach the upper collar to my front facings. The picture was useless. The words were useless. I pick up my borrowed bible and there it is! How to attach it! Brilliant. I do so and feel victorious once again.

Now to attach the facings to the front. I discover my 'roll tape' is on the front and it should be inside. Never fear! I think, 'tis but a toile. So I start sewing my facings on. The more I sew the worse I feel. Thern are roll lines in possibly but possibly not weird places. The lapel seems much smaller now (again I didn't clip anything as it might all need adjusting) and I'm not sure I've done it right, it looks a bit of a mess. I haven't pressed it yet but I'm not sure I want to!

I'm not sure what comes next but I have a feeling it's sewing the collar bits together... And then the terrifying sleevies.

I was told to measure the back and my back and see how they match up and to adjust. It's possibly a half inch or so too long.. And it's definitely too wide, but as it is made up of front, side back, and back and possibly a side front, I don't know where to make the change. So I'll wait for my tailoring boot camp at the weekend!

It is so hard to stick with 1/2" seams, I'm so used to 1/4"! I find myself reverting and having to correct.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Acorn on June 15, 2017, 16:44:46 PM
Have a cup of coffee - you've earned it!  :drink:  (I sneaked some brandy in.)
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Ploshkin on June 15, 2017, 17:15:14 PM
For your toile you don't need to do the pockets, upper collar or facings or any of the twiddly bits.  It is just to check the overall fit to see if you need to make any pattern alterations before cutting.  This is actually easier to do if you have only one layer of fabric.  If you get your toile with the (under) collar sitting nicely and make any pattern alterations (if necessary) to both collar pieces it will go together just fine when you do the actual thing.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 15, 2017, 20:38:26 PM
I did not know that! Wooops! Well I could do with the practice and I can always rip it off haha!

I've done the sleevies. Though I skipped the middle bit as it was horribly confusing in both words and pictures and I think it had to do with the vented cuff which I have no idea...

Anyway the sleevies went in remarkably well. But I have just read the pattern back and I was supposed to put gathers in at the top...which I haven't done. Not sure I like gathers on a habit, but never look closely enough! Don't know if they are essential and functional or just decorative. Another question for my friend  :S I'll have to get her a nice big bottle of something nice!

And here are some terrible pictures.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Ploshkin on June 15, 2017, 22:29:44 PM
The gathers around the sleeve head are just to help ease it into the armhole.  With a woollen garment you do a lot of pressing and steaming to help it shrink to fit neatly.  The finished sleeve head will not look gathered at all.
When you gather a sleeve head (or anything for that matter) you do 2 parallel lines of stitching about 2mm apart.  That gives you much neater / smoother gathers and makes it much easier in this situation where they are for easing.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 17, 2017, 11:29:28 AM
Spent a lovely morning with my friend testing the fit and shape of my toiles.

Skirt is pretty good, need to add a bit to the left back and make some of the knee darts bigger. But can go ahead with the proper fabric!

The jacket. Well, apparently I put it together pretty well, but some of the pattern was a bit iffy. So after fitting it and working out what needs to be taken in my lovely friend sent me for my pattern pieces and she set abiut 'fixing' them. She added bits, chopped bits, changed the fit of bits and hacked at the awful shoulder pattern. We messed with the lapels which were very stingy and chahged the cut in front to look better and be more flattering. So now I need to make a fresh toile for the jacket. I'll rip the first one apart and cut what I can, but I'll need to cut some fresh pieces. I've also got collar homework to practice making it up and attaching properly.

It's all looking positive and she seems pleased with my progress :D so hopefully I'll manage to make my skirt and hang it to allow the bias to drop before properly hemming it and I'll have a better looking jacket toile!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Ploshkin on June 17, 2017, 18:47:22 PM
It sounds as if you are making good progress.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 18, 2017, 08:52:46 AM
Thanks. I thought so too until I remembered last night I also need to make a false waistcoat! But I might buy one if I can find a nice suitable one in the right colour.

Ordering my proper fabric this week as I make up jacket toile number two.

And I need to find some nice buttons.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: KayK on June 18, 2017, 22:35:47 PM
I've come to this thread rather late, but loving seeing your progress!

I rode side saddle years ago (when I had a comfy horse!) and did think at one time of making my own habit - I have remembered there is a site called 'The Side Saddle Lady' (and I've just checked  - the site is still there!) She has some lovely patterns for all types of habits - maybe you might like to make another one!

I remember having even the soles of my boots checked - I used to wear carrier bags on them before I was hoisted on!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 19, 2017, 18:53:22 PM
I'll defintely be trying to make a Victorian style one once I get over this one. My tailor friend said she has the pattern books with all of those sorts of jackets in  <3

She has also lent me some of her professional tailors sample books with the correct sort of lining fabrics in and I'm drooling over all the gorgeous fabrics. There are a couple of lovely sky blues, some very nice shot fabrics and I've enjoyed stroking them!

I'm feeling very spoiled by her. Even when I think she's being overly nice about my sewing skills! Haha
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Catllar on June 19, 2017, 20:49:09 PM
Coming on nicely - watching with interest as this is  totally outside my comfort zone!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 19, 2017, 20:55:53 PM
I was going to re-do my toile today but couldn't bring myself to go into the summer house, even with all the blinds down it is roasting, unless I open the glass wall and windows, but then every bug comes in for a chat and everything gets blown around in the slightest breeze! I'll start tomorrow I think and aim to have a new toile done by the evening.

It's totally out of my comfort zone too! Give me a quilt any day!

It's all getting very real! Ordering fabric tomorrow as I forgot today in the heat.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 20, 2017, 14:15:47 PM
So tolie version 2 is done.

I made a real mess of the collar. I had no idea how I was supposed to attach it after I bagged it out and I think it's gone horribly wrong. No, I know it's gone horribly wrong. I started off sticking it on upside down and I put it back on the right way up but it's wrong! Have attached a pic of how awful it is (and yes those raw edges are on the outside!)

The line at the front is much better and the sleeves aren't so ridiculously long. Hoping once the collar thing is sorted I can make it properly!

Been reading up in the tailoring bible about how to do the pockets properly so that's good!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: wrenkins on June 20, 2017, 14:45:13 PM
I have absolutely no idea what you're doing but it's fascinating nevertheless.  :S
Carry on!   :)  :drink:
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Missie on June 21, 2017, 10:45:38 AM
So tolie version 2 is done.

I made a real mess of the collar. I had no idea how I was supposed to attach it after I bagged it out and I think it's gone horribly wrong.

Don't worry, its not as bad as you think.  You just need to sew it the other way, ie right sides of undercollar to right side of jacket, (and I probably wouldn't sew the upper collar on until you've done that!) then when the collar is properly in situ, the lining is sewn to the edges of the upper collar, thus enclosing the raw edges.

I'm really enjoying following this project!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: elisep on June 21, 2017, 12:28:51 PM
If you're using the Suitability jacket pattern, it is designed to use wool melton or felt as the undercollar, hence the raw edges being on the outside.
If you want to use self fabric on the undercollar, all you need to do is add your seam allowance on in the correct places, and then consult your tailoring book for order of construction. I did the same for my jacket and it all worked out fine.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: AnneFrances on June 23, 2017, 14:08:09 PM
Just coming in rather late to say that Thomas von Nordheim's book on Vintage Tailoring (actually I am not sure why he says "vintage" - perhaps just because he does not use fusible interfacings)  is very helpful indeed - and does, I think, include instructions for using a felt or melton for the undercollar so you could see how the techniques vary.  I daresay you have managed to source all the hair canvas etc you will need, but if not then Kenton Trimmings in London do have pretty much anything one might need. It does look as if it is coming along beautifully - hats off to you for making the attempt.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 26, 2017, 17:33:32 PM
My wool has arrived! All 4kg of it. Looks so lovely I can't bear to cut into it!
Now for apron skirt to be made and hung to allow for bias drop. Jacket fitting over new corset! this weekend. (feeling super lucky as an amazing lady who specialises in historical costumes and corsets found space for me in her seriously busy waitlist! It's like it was meant to be!) I'll post of photo of it when it arrives :D

This cavalry twill is lovely and I'm going to clean up my tables to make sure I don't wreck it when cutting out!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 26, 2017, 19:54:01 PM
Looks lovely- but I see no twill.  Probably my eyes!  lol
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 26, 2017, 20:00:25 PM
The twillness is on the other side I think - all a bit of a blur, was unwrap and check colour before rushing off to work! Couldn't get the colour to photo well on the other side though. I'll get pictures of it all laid out at some point (probably late tomorrow or early Weds!

Pretty pretty blue! And very very soft. I'd rather hope so considering the cost pm!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 27, 2017, 06:55:21 AM
Here's a picture of the twill side. Hard to photograph for colour or twill, hence the other side!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 28, 2017, 08:36:49 AM
My collar malfunction is understood now. Didn't helf that it was about a 1/4" too short on both sides. I shall practice padstitching the calico undercollar piece and cut two bigger collar pieces and attach to toile properly.

Tried jacket on a horse yesterday and needs an extra cm or so to back length and sleeve hem length to allow for jumping (and still looking elegant) as my trainer said, it's easier to push the sleeves up a tad in the elbow than to make them stretch out!

I will be cutting my skirt out of the cavalry twill today! Then after sewing pieces together it must be hung as it would be worn (so over some chairs!) to allow for 'drop' so that it gets it out of its system and I can then sew a lovely straight hem that won't sag. Tailor friend says is imperative.

Still have to choose my buttons... And my lining fabric. I have some samples arriving today, they are all shot fabric in a mix of blue, green, purple. Hope one of them fills me with joy!

But skirt! So need to do my velcro, darts, waistband (bit terrified about that as it needs extending I think as the back left panel needs extending. But I'm not sure so I will wait till I see my friend on Saturday and ask her.) and mark out where the buttons will go. I'm a bit rabbit in headlights just thinking about it! I shouldn't be so worried but the fabric is soooo expensive and I dont have any spare. 3m exactly!
I made no mistakes cutting out my toile so I'm not sure why I'm stressing now!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Sewingsue on June 28, 2017, 11:34:28 AM
Syrinx, I am filled with admiration for the task you have set yourself.

Please forgive a slight chuckle over trying the jacket on the horse.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: wrenkins on June 28, 2017, 13:32:31 PM
My pal does all that malarky. I knew about the false bun but not the rest of it. If it can make her look sophisticated it's more than an outfit...it's a magic trick!
I saw a picture and didn't recognise her. I've only known her 40 years.
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 28, 2017, 15:23:57 PM
Haha! Yes sophisticated is the goal ;)
I've cut the fabric for the skirt!
Thank goodness for my rotary cutter, it is soo thick. I've put all the dart marks etc on the pieces and now I have chickened out. I don't know what thread I should be using, or what needle, and it's really expensive fabric and I don't think unpicking is an option. So, I'm going to wait for the weekend and ask all the questions of my friend.

On the good news front, my new snazzy corset arrived and it is gorgeous. Have attached a pic, apologies for the dirty mirror. And the cavalry twill is absolutely wonderful. I also seem to have quite a lot of big offcuts... What to do with them as I'll have even more after the jacket pieces are cut out... Picture of me cutting some of it up!




Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: DementedFairy on June 28, 2017, 16:56:44 PM
That's a pretty corset- looks like you could insert a teeny bit of padding at the hips if you want to make your waist look even smaller...
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Syrinx on June 28, 2017, 17:10:53 PM
It's a riding corset, so the hip bit gets filled with hip when you are sat down aside, and with the spread of hip and leg when astride ;)  shorter than a normal corset. It is super pretty :D rode my boy out today in it and was very odd - comfy, but definitely need to get used to using one astride! My wiggly spine was well and truly kept in its place!
Title: Re: Riding Habit
Post by: Jo on June 28, 2017, 17:47:57 PM
hip bit gets filled with hip
0_0 0_0 0_0
Syrinx, that corset looks lovely! :)
I haven't sewn any wool, especially thick wool. But I know that the thicker the fabric, the thicker the needle and the bigger the stitch length. You could try experimenting on some scraps, see what works best.