The Sewing Place

The Emporia => A bit of a 'do' => Topic started by: charlotte on April 16, 2019, 13:37:16 PM

Title: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 16, 2019, 13:37:16 PM
So after a l-o-o-o-o-ng sewing hiatus I am jumping back in feet-first with a strapless Liberty-print dress. I'm thinking a fairly simple straight-across top with a big pleated skirt.

It's my first strapless dress and I'm going all-out on the foundations with a built in corselette including cut-and-sew foam cups, underwires and spiral steel boning.

I can't decide whether I want a ruffled petticoat underneath or if that will be too much!

This is my fabric:
(https://i.imgur.com/bY58EIgl.jpg?4)
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: SkoutSews on April 16, 2019, 14:32:18 PM
Oh, I love that fabric! It's fabulous.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Acorn on April 16, 2019, 14:35:04 PM
Ooh that's going to be gorgeous!!  Have you got plans to wear it somewhere sunny and glamorous?
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 16, 2019, 14:51:59 PM
Have you got plans to wear it somewhere sunny and glamorous?

Hopefully Henley Regatta, so it's more likely to be rainy and muddy!  :D
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Acorn on April 16, 2019, 17:30:21 PM
But you will be sunny!   :D
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: snoozi soozi on April 16, 2019, 19:12:17 PM
Ooo I love a bold print, all the colours in that, eh? Gorgeous  :loveit:
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: BrendaP on April 16, 2019, 21:45:41 PM
That fabric is gorgeous  :loveit:

I can't decide whether I want a ruffled petticoat underneath or if that will be too much!

What pattern are you using?
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 17, 2019, 09:00:46 AM
What pattern are you using?

Haven’t got an actual pattern but I’m thinking this sort of shape, just strapless.

(https://i.imgur.com/szg9dppl.jpg)
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 17, 2019, 09:09:32 AM
One thing I would say is don't go all out on the steel boning unless you're really determined to. I am a G chest and managed just fine with the plastic ribbon stuff that you just stitch on. The advantage of using that was no channels need to be made so less bulk.

Hmmm... I’m planning for the foundation to go down to my hips (so that I can attach both a bust and waist stay) and I always thought that Rigilene does not work so well over/below the waist. That said, I read yesterday that spiral steel boning is not good in dresses, so I’m not sure what to use! Maybe I should try the Rigilene in my toile and see. It certainly would be a lot easier!
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: elisep on April 24, 2019, 10:21:07 AM
Spiral steel is not generally recommended if your bust is larger than a C cup.
I made myself a formal dress with a separate internal corselette made from Powernet. I'm not at home to double check right now, but I think I used a combination of spiral and flat steel. I definitely would have used flat steels at center back and the side seams, and definitely spiral steels over the bust for comfort. I just can't remember what I used at the side front and side back seams.
The dress was extremely comfortable to wear for a strapless, I didn't have to pull it up once. The corselette went down to high hip and waistline on the dress was at my natural waist. The powernet was definitely a big part of why it was so comfortable! I originally wanted to go full couture and use swiss net but it proved very difficult to find.

I don't really like rigilene for strapless dresses myself, I don't feel it offers enough support - this is just my preference.
Personally, if I was going to the trouble of making a corselette and all, I would use channels and boning rather than sew on rigilene.

Another option could be cable ties - I've used these successfully in toiles that I have made for various things, and in a pair of 18th century stays. Still need to sew channels for these but cheaper than using steel and then it would be safe to wash in the machine.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 29, 2019, 14:07:11 PM
So after much mucking around with my corselette toile I am going with the steel spiral. There is no boning over the bust, as I am using foam cups and underwires, but I really like the way the spiral steel shapes through the waist.

I have adjusted my toile to within an inch of its life to minimise the armpit squidge and I think I have it as good as it's going to get. It's still a little bit squashy at the top but if I let it out anymore at the top it gapes at the front which is definitely not a good look.

I am contemplating attaching Rigilene to the bodice underlining (this is what I usually do for my non-strapless dresses), but that might be overkill.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: charlotte on July 17, 2019, 10:11:08 AM
Oh dear, such a long time since I posted. I need to be less busy so I have more time for sewing!!

Anyway, here is a picture of the finished dress:

(https://i.imgur.com/I2MTJs9l.jpg)
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: b15erk on July 17, 2019, 10:13:47 AM
Beautiful Charlotte!  It fits you perfectly and looks lovely!

Jessie
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Greybird on July 17, 2019, 10:21:40 AM
How lovely! Perfect fit and beautiful fabric.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: wrenkins on July 17, 2019, 12:04:10 PM
I saved a picture of a dress with a similar style where the princess seams 'open out' to two gathers at the front. I think it's gorgeous.
I don't think I'm quite ready for strapless but it's really lovely on you.  :loveit:
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: snoozi soozi on July 17, 2019, 12:12:48 PM
Looks gorgeous on you @charlotte well done  :loveit:
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Nevis5 on July 17, 2019, 16:34:02 PM
It is lovely @charlotte  ! I have never seen a Liberty print like that, it's so pretty.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: WildAtlanticWay on July 17, 2019, 16:44:40 PM
You’ve done a great job with that dress. Fits your perfectly and the print is stunning.
<oh to be young and slim again...>
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: SkoutSews on July 17, 2019, 18:09:55 PM
Lovely dress! It's very smart and I still love the gorgeous fabric.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Vezelay on July 17, 2019, 20:57:20 PM
What a beautiful dress Charlotte - all your efforts paid off! Fantastic choice of fabric.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Lachica on July 17, 2019, 21:06:18 PM
That is ace!
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Tamnymore on July 17, 2019, 21:53:53 PM
Wow! Fabulous dress @charlotte. You look great in it.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Catllar on July 23, 2019, 16:48:26 PM
Gorgeous dress - unusual for a liberty print to be so bold!
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: toileandtrouble on October 13, 2019, 01:51:48 AM
Every time I see this topic in the index, my brain completes it as "strapless liberty bodice" Sorry!
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: Ellabella on October 13, 2019, 12:06:26 PM
Every time I see this topic in the index, my brain completes it as "strapless liberty bodice" Sorry!

Complete with rubber buttons?
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: UttaRetch on October 13, 2019, 18:31:34 PM
Ha, ha.  I remember the liberty bodice.
Title: Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
Post by: toileandtrouble on October 13, 2019, 20:30:51 PM
@Ellabella  Horrible things. I was trying to forget!   Did anyone ever bother to put them in the button box?