The Sewing Place

Tools of the Trade => The Haberdashery => Topic started by: Debking5 on March 13, 2018, 07:38:06 AM

Title: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Debking5 on March 13, 2018, 07:38:06 AM
 :thread: hi there. Im new to this forum and looking for lots of help as a complete sewing newby!  At the moment im wondering when you buy a button chissel are there different chissel sizes? All i can find online is a standard button chissel.but surely buttons are all different sizes so wed need different size chissels? If anyone knows where i can buy a few different  size ones from please cam you send me a link?
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Efemera on March 13, 2018, 07:44:03 AM
I don’t know what others think about these but I’m not a fan and I’ve been sewing for decades.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Debking5 on March 13, 2018, 07:51:08 AM
O right!! Umm how do you make your button hole? What tools do you use?
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Francesca on March 13, 2018, 07:54:04 AM
A seam ripper is enough for me!
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Nevis5 on March 13, 2018, 08:02:32 AM
I use a buttonhole chisel (I've never seen them in different sizes).  They come with a small wooden block which you put underneath your fabric to protect the working surface (a table, or some such) underneath from the sharp chisel blade.  After you've made your buttonhole (I always run a bead of Fray Check or something similar along the inside of the buttonhole to try and stop the stitches fraying), you put your block under your buttonhole and with the chisel upright, gently position it between the lines of buttonhole stitches and push down.

The blade should be sharp enough to cut through the layers of fabric and make a neat slit.  If your buttonhole is longer than the chisel blade, just move the chisel (and wooden block if necessary) along a tiny bit and push the blade in again, just a bit further along the buttonhole to make a longer slit.   Try not to let the blade cut the stitches at the end of the buttonhole.

Hope that helps.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: UttaRetch on March 13, 2018, 08:17:59 AM
Unpicker here too.  It is important, however, to place a pin across the end of the bar tack so that you don't go too far when you make the cut.

I don't know what equipment you have so far, but I consider the basics to be good, sharp cutting shears and smaller scissors, a tape measure, pins, said unpicker (https://www.dhresource.com/albu_945499702_00-1.0x0/long-plastic-cap-cross-stitch-unpicker-grn.jpg) (seam ripper), markers (either pens or chalk), good quality hand sewing needles,  and a seam guage (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0225/9227/products/16117380_F_a.jpg).  Other equipment is, of course, an iron and ironing board.  I have been sewing for nearly 30 years and this is pretty much my basic kit.

Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: BrendaP on March 13, 2018, 08:36:23 AM
Yes, that's my basic kit too, except that I don't get on with seam rippers, I much prefer small, sharp scissors with pointed tips for both unpicking and for cutting buttonholes.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: UttaRetch on March 13, 2018, 08:37:53 AM
I have embroidery scissors and sometimes use them to cut buttonholes.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Ploshkin on March 13, 2018, 09:03:39 AM
I've never used a chisel either.  I use a seam ripper from each end of the buttonhole to the centre so there is little danger of cutting through the end (I never have to date, probably famous last words).
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Debking5 on March 13, 2018, 09:35:59 AM
 <3 wow ty everyone for your replys!! That has been very handy! Ok so far my basic equipment is : seam ripper!! sewing machine (15 years old), 2 scissors, think 1 is shears, there huge, and a smaller pair, hand needles, pins, pencil marker for fabric (light blue)  threads, buttons, zips erm i think thats it. So looks like i need to buy the following: fray away bottle for button holes, chisel and board (ill try both methods ) and a seam gauger,? I have no idea how to use one of those or where to start? Any ideas of seam gaugers lol? I am a pure starter but really want to go into clothe making.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: BrendaP on March 13, 2018, 10:47:38 AM
Fray Check is a contraversial one - some people swear by it for all sorts of things, others don't like the residual mark it leaves; goes yellow in time. 

Chisel and board is optional, and seam guage is just a specialist measuring device; very handy to have but you can manage with a good ruler.  A tape measure, if you don't already have one is much more necessary.  Even if you always think and measure in metric it is still worthwhile getting one with inches as well.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Francesca on March 13, 2018, 10:57:52 AM
I put a thick metal pin at the end but quite a few mms in from the stitching, then rip to the needle. Then I use my little embroidery scissors to snip the final end bit and tidy the fabric out of the buttonhole.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Gernella on March 13, 2018, 11:23:24 AM
I used to to use a stitch ripper then small scissors but then I bought the little Clover chisel.  I didn't know there were different sizes, I just start in the middle and move it along.  You need a nice block of wood underneath as well but it does work a treat especially if the fabric is on the thick side, boosted by interfacing.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: crafter on March 13, 2018, 12:49:34 PM
I have a chisel .................... somewhere?  Used it once I think and then went back to the seam ripper which works perfectly every time.

Cx
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: maliw on March 13, 2018, 14:33:30 PM
I too have a chisel that I inherited from mum but I still tend to use either a seam ripper + pin or small scissors. Old habits die hard, I never really saw the need for a chisel.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: UttaRetch on March 13, 2018, 14:51:57 PM
So looks like i need to buy the following: ... a seam gauger,? I have no idea how to use one of those or where to start?
A seam guage is by no means necessary, but I find mine very useful and you can see how to use it here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5YMuDWrEso).
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: sewingj on March 13, 2018, 15:19:52 PM
buttonholes I just use a seam ripper or scissors - never had a problem - just work from the outside edge to the middle.

I have one of those sliding sewing guages but the slidy bit quickly got lose.  I`ve also got one of these which I find very useful
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMLHUYU/ref=asc_df_B00BMLHUYU50811935/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22122&creativeASIN=B00BMLHUYU&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205189075860&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16335902789647657764&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006875&hvtargid=pla-421874118121
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Nevis5 on March 13, 2018, 16:34:43 PM
I use my seam gauges all the time (have several as I tend to lose the slide bit, or bend the gauge or otherwise destroy them), they make checking seam allowances, hems, spaces between buttonholes etc etc very quick and easy.

Oh and the Fray Check - I squeeze a blob onto a thick piece of spare paper, dip a cocktail stick into the blob and very carefully drag it along the inside of the buttonhole, thus avoiding the drippy blobs and ruining the garment.  (this is a tip from Louise Cutting of Cutting Line Designs).  Works a treat.

Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: DementedFairy on March 13, 2018, 17:21:10 PM
I used to always cut or rip buttonholes, but I wouldn't be without the chisel now...I don't just press with it, I give it  a
salutory WHACK with my hammer.  Just because I can...

My essentials would be needle threaders [but that's because I'm a  blind old bat], wax for good hand sewing, some Clover black gold sewing needles, and this specific sewing gauge
(https://www.quiltdirect.co.uk/acatalog/ER260B.jpg)

oh, and my cardboard cutting board.  VITAL to my well-being!
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: maliw on March 13, 2018, 17:47:44 PM
Yes I have that sewing 'gauge' sewingj and DF, I find it VERY useful. In fact I lost my first one so when I replaced it I bought 2.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: Francesca on March 13, 2018, 18:22:42 PM
I love sewing when it involves hammers. Seriously! Press studs, metal buttons, all that. So much fun.
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: UttaRetch on March 13, 2018, 18:45:17 PM
@sewingj: the same thing has happened to mine, but I have put some sticky tape across the 5/8 mark as I pretty much only use mine for marking the seam line on pattern fabric pieces.  I do, however, have a spare guage. :D
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: DementedFairy on March 13, 2018, 20:47:05 PM
I love 'em!  Mine snapped, so I had to get another immediately.  Some things cannot be allowed to die!
Title: Re: Im new and button hole chissels
Post by: arrow on March 13, 2018, 21:23:07 PM
My chissel has a wooden handle, I can't knock it too hard. It's still very sharp and I've had it for years. Only one of my seam rippers is sharp and good enough as buttonholer opener. It takes a bit of effort to find a good ripper, and you don't really know the difference until you have found one. The same with small sharp scissors, most I have found are run of the mill products.