The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 28, 2017, 16:33:49 PM

Title: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 28, 2017, 16:33:49 PM
I now have the fabric and patterns, so need to make a decision - the nicely detailed Butterick and alter the collar to make it a longer pointed one, or the much simpler, but then possibly a bit shapeless Vogue?  I think I'm leaning toward the Butterick, but will have to make sure it will actually go round my, err, body-where-a-waist-should-be, and my hips.  Whichever I do, it will be slightly longer than hip length, I think...

The fabric is a lovely deep pink on grey, so I think it's calling out for some pink lining?
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on October 28, 2017, 17:05:01 PM
I like both patterns so you can't go wrong whatever you choose. I think I would go for the Vogue, for no other reason than it's going to be a heck of a lot easier to match the checks. The Butterick one has proncess seams so is bound to be harder work to match and may take ages to do. I don't think the  Vogue looks shapeless and one of the line drawings shows it in a check. I agree go for a lively lining such as pink!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: UttaRetch on October 28, 2017, 17:58:44 PM
I prefer the 'fit and flare' of the Butterick, but wouldn't be up for a plaid version.  0_0
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Efemera on October 28, 2017, 18:25:42 PM
Depends on what you want to wear under it... the Butterick is quite fitted
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Lizzy777 on October 28, 2017, 19:20:23 PM
I too think the Vogue style would be better suited to your fabric and think the
Butterick pattern is best suited to a plain fabric?

I just saw this pattern.

https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/nl6325#.WfTGKzOZMyk

If you have already seen it then sorry for posting it. View A, is what caught my eye and you could lengthen it easily  Collar could be made smaller too. Think its a nice style too if you don't particularly want close fitting coats?

But out of the two you are already considering, my vote foes to the Vogue pattern.





Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 28, 2017, 19:59:55 PM
I already have that pattern Lizzy, I've used it for fleece jackets with machine embroidery on them, love 'em!
This time, I'm looking for more of a coat.  My mind says do the Vogue, but my heart says Butterick... help!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Lizzy777 on October 28, 2017, 20:14:20 PM
I already have that pattern Lizzy, I've used it for fleece jackets with machine embroidery on them, love 'em!
This time, I'm looking for more of a coat.  My mind says do the Vogue, but my heart says Butterick... help!

I think you are much better to go for the less fitted Vogue pattern. I just don't think the Butterick pattern is suited to the tartan fabric you have bought tbh.

Aim to make the Butterick pattern in a plain fabric at some other time, then you have the best of both worlds so to speak!

Go with your mind it knows best on this occasion. :)





Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Vegegrow on October 28, 2017, 21:10:31 PM
I know its an effort but you could toile if you are not sure on shape and fit and you could draw some stripes to see how easy they are to match on seams
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Missie on October 29, 2017, 10:02:41 AM
I too think the Vogue style would be better suited to your fabric and think the
Butterick pattern is best suited to a plain fabric?

Exactly my thinking!

And yes, to a lovely pink lining!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: BrendaP on October 29, 2017, 10:12:31 AM
I much prefer the Butterick pattern, so long is it fits you properly.  I don't like the way the Vogue one opens out at the bottom.

Use the Vogue one as a guide for altering the collar.

You can see from the illustration what the Vogue pattern looks like with a plaid fabric, the Butterick will achieve much the same effect.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 29, 2017, 10:41:10 AM
I would alter the cut of the underneath front so it doesn't open out at the bottom, I don't like that either.  That Vogue would be so simple to make, but looks almost totally straight up and down, which I'm not keen on .  I still prefer the Butterick, and how this for an idea - cut the side panels on the bias??  No pattern matching needed at the princess seams then...
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Efemera on October 29, 2017, 10:54:45 AM
I’m just thinking would  Tilton style tops go under a fitted coat?
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 29, 2017, 11:00:32 AM
Good point!  But then I also have a whole load of jersey loose/flared tops too  :)  And I'd make sure the fitted coat won't be toooo fitted.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on October 29, 2017, 15:21:08 PM
If you really prefer the Butterick, Bodgey, I would just go for it and bite the bullet on the pattern matching. You could do the side bits on the bias but that would probably take quite a bit more fabric. You are certainly skilled enough to take the tartan challenge!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Sewbee on October 29, 2017, 15:36:07 PM
Another vote for the Butterick pattern.  :D I like the Vogue pattern as well but prefer the softer line of the Butterick.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 29, 2017, 18:55:37 PM
Well, all I've managed to do is cut out the pattern pieces of the Butterick, I will get "Dolly" out of her temporary storage place in the en-suite bathroom (actually in the bath, we don't use that one!) and pin the tissue bits on her tomorrow, but I think it will fit ok, especially as there's leeway for adjustment with the overlapping front.  I may just grade out the waist a tad.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Acorn on October 29, 2017, 19:08:10 PM
It's nice that she gets to relax in the bath when she's not needed.   ;)
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 30, 2017, 13:59:15 PM
So, just pinned the Butterick pattern on Dolly - there was me thinking it isn't that fitted at the waist surely - oh, it is  :(
Looks like I'll be making the Vogue then!! 
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on October 30, 2017, 14:02:59 PM
Although you could ease the waist out.... I spend my life doing that to patterns.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 30, 2017, 17:31:38 PM
I could indeed... and I may try it, and for possibly the first time in my life, I'll make a toile to check it - I wonder if one of the decorating sheets is clean enough...
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 31, 2017, 12:38:34 PM
I'm getting excited now - I've just made a toile of the Butterick, and having made it wider at the waist and hips, it's fits well  :)
I even cut new tissue pattern pieces as I cut the toile, so it's all ready now to cut the tartan fabric - and attempt to pattern match, that could be fun...  :S
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on October 31, 2017, 13:06:49 PM
I'm sure you are doing this, or something like this, anyway B/S but when cutting tartan fabric that is folded, I find it useful to pin matching bits along the selvedge and also to try and pin a few matches in the middle along the length of the fabric -just helps the fabric not to wander too far when cutting double.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 31, 2017, 13:09:48 PM
I'm sure you are doing this, or something like this, anyway B/S but when cutting tartan fabric that is folded, I find it useful to pin matching bits along the selvedge and also to try and pin a few matches in the middle along the length of the fabric -just helps the fabric not to wander too far when cutting double.
Thank you, yes, I've done lots of googling and saw to do lots of pinning.  I'm just about to start now, wish me luck!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on October 31, 2017, 13:36:58 PM
I thought you might like to see some of my tartan creations  as inspirations so I've dug out a few I made. Excuse the 'creative chaos' in the background (and everything could do with a press!). This one is from a Burda pattern I traced and graded up (pattern long since lost!) and it worked OK except the shoulders are a wee bit big. I see I managed to pattern match across the princess seams so it is possible - though that might be more of an issue if you have to do a FBA.

The fabric is a lovely soft wool and is a nicer pinker shade than I've managed to capture!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Sewingsue on October 31, 2017, 14:05:45 PM
Lovely jacket, Tamny and very impressed with the pattern matching.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 31, 2017, 16:12:24 PM
That looks great Tamnymore, I hope mine turns out that well.  I've just cut the front pieces, I now need to try to match the sleeve heads in - so I'm sitting down for coffee and biscuits first!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Acorn on October 31, 2017, 16:14:16 PM
Good idea - you'll need fortifying before you start!   :drink:
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 31, 2017, 17:20:46 PM
It's cut out, I've tried very hard to match the princess seams and the sleeve heads, but may just have forgotten about the side seams  :o  :S What a plonker!!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 31, 2017, 17:24:26 PM
And I may have done the sleeves wrong - they are in two pieces and I matched the underarm seam towards the front, but then thought the back seam is possible more visible, although it's still kinda underneath-ish.  Oh well, I won't be seeing the back view  0_0
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on October 31, 2017, 17:28:08 PM
Don' worry Bodgey. Much High Street clothing does not do pattern matching across checked fabric or fabrics with a regular pattern (probably to use less fabric)  so you can pretend that's what you intended. As long as your left and right fronts are fairly even, and your right and left backs are even then you should be OK if the sides aren't an exact match, and it will look fine. Also sleeves aren't so important.

Here's another tartan jacket I made - my Burns night jacket- rather bright so only taken out occasionally! I didn't manage to match the princess seams at the front although you may not be able to see. I don't seem to have matched the sleeve heads either! Also I can see places where it could do with some serious under stitching (hope RD's muv isn't looking).
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 31, 2017, 17:45:05 PM
Another lovely one!  And no, I don't think sleeves do really matter after all!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Fabric Lover on November 03, 2017, 07:36:26 AM
Excited to see this as I’ve just started a tartan coat, well a 3/4 length coat. I think mine is a simpler pattern than yours though, although more seams to match!  :S
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 03, 2017, 08:41:55 AM
Fronts and backs put together, the princess seams are pretty good, the centre back isn't too bad (although I need to take it in above the waist, it seems to hang from the shoulders), the side seams I completely forgot about when cutting out and of course they don't match at all.  One of the sleeve seams matches (the front underarm), but the back seam doesn't.  I stopped sewing last after I'd unpicked about three seams to re-sew  :S
Today is setting in the sleeves, and then cutting out the lining - which involves clearing all my sewing stuff and machine off the table to use it for cutting   :(
It'll be great when it's finished I'm sure  :)
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 03, 2017, 16:31:04 PM
I've now got the sleeves in - which I don't particularly like the feel of, I hate things that restrict my movement, but I think that's the nature of coat sleeves.  The front is a bit wide across the chest, so a little "foldy" by the armholes, not ideal, but not a lot I can do about it now.  The fabric was becoming a nightmare, as it's starting to fall apart at the edges, so I've quickly sewn the under collar on while there's still some seam allowance!  It also meant I couldn't see most of the notches on the sleeves and my chalky pen thing would mark the fabric either, so had to bodge the sleeves in.
The worst bit of it is, now I've tried it on, I feel like I'm wearing a tartan dressing gown  :(
It's quite long at the moment, once I've got it lined I'll shorten it to above the knee and it'll maybe look better, but currently I'm not feeling any love for it   :S :(
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on November 03, 2017, 17:09:22 PM
Oh dear, B&S, some fabrics don't half fray. Don't fall out of love with it yet, though. The final press can make a lot of difference in terms of losing the dressing gown look. Thinking positive tartany thoughts for you!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: toileandtrouble on November 03, 2017, 17:10:29 PM
Do you have an overlocker? I use mine on awkward fabrics to make the pieces easy to handle. Even the tops of curtains that will later be folded inside the tape.  Of course, you have to mark with tailor tacks or marker in the seam allowances after you 've done it, but it's worth it.  It's a lovely feeling when it's been tamed!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 03, 2017, 18:40:50 PM
Do you have an overlocker? I use mine on awkward fabrics to make the pieces easy to handle. Even the tops of curtains that will later be folded inside the tape.  Of course, you have to mark with tailor tacks or marker in the seam allowances after you 've done it, but it's worth it.  It's a lovely feeling when it's been tamed!
Great idea, I do have an overlocker, and the next lot of coat fabric will be overlocked!  It wasn't too bad until I got to the armholes and sleeve heads, those curved edges were falling apart.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 04, 2017, 08:55:51 AM
Right, I've decided, it's being unpicked!  Only part of it, I hasten to add, just the front princess seams to make it fit across my chest, it is just too big and it's a shame to spoil it.  Unfortunately, the seams are topstitched and overlocked, so more than a bit of unpicking.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Ellabella on November 04, 2017, 09:36:42 AM
We feel your pain.  Unpicking is soul destroying esp on fraying fabric, but still be worth it in the end I'm sure ;)
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 04, 2017, 12:39:10 PM
And I changed my mind again!!  I marked the centre fronts, tried it on again, and decided I could overlap it a tad more and then it wouldn't be too bad, and would save all that unpicking and fraying!  Lining is now attached to the outer, just pausing for coffee and biscuits before trimming seams and and top stitching edges.  Then I have to decide on the length...
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: UttaRetch on November 04, 2017, 17:09:10 PM
All that unpicking sounded mightmarish, I am glad you have found a way out.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 05, 2017, 09:57:56 AM
I made buttons last night - not sure they are big enough, 23mm, but they'll do.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on November 05, 2017, 10:41:04 AM
Lovely buttons, Bodgey!  :D
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 05, 2017, 12:08:57 PM
I dragged Dolly out the bath again...
I think I may not have the best figure to show off this style of coat... but never mind!
I'm about to do the buttonholes, then I need to pin it up much shorter I think, it's a bit old fashioned that long.  I really must stop searching on t'interweb for lampshades and get sewing.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: UttaRetch on November 05, 2017, 13:22:13 PM
Blimey, this is a fast make and I look forward to seeing it finished.  It took me six weeks' to make one of my coats.  :(
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on November 05, 2017, 13:39:41 PM
Wow that's really fantastic, Bodgey! Very professional and the checks all match up nicely.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 05, 2017, 13:43:37 PM
Wow that's really fantastic, Bodgey! Very professional and the checks all match up nicely.
Thank you  :D
I won't be photographing the side seams  :| :S
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Fabric Lover on November 05, 2017, 18:37:45 PM
That looks lovely Bodgey, well done. I’m a long way off from finishing mine but have just managed to try it on. Hope it turns out as well as yours has.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 05, 2017, 21:34:33 PM
Just the hem left to do, that's why it looks a bit uneven!  I have cut 3.5 inches off, and need to turn it up 1.5 inches, and get the fronts level, not sure what's going on there.  Quite pleased with the fit now, in fact I may have overlapped the fronts too much, but I think they'll do.
Pics below - and I'll even show you the embarrassing side seams...
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on November 05, 2017, 21:48:33 PM
Looks great. An excellent fit and the length  is much better. I had to look very closely to notice the side seams! No one will.notice I'm sure.  :D
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 05, 2017, 21:57:53 PM
Thank you  :)
I did discover I've put the sleeve linings in back to front  :|  (or maybe put the left in the right hole and vice versa) but as they feel ok and no-one will ever know, they are staying that way!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: fajita on November 05, 2017, 21:59:13 PM
It looks great. Well done.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 05, 2017, 22:10:45 PM
Thank you.
I'm now left wondering what happened to the coat I planned to make - with a longer pointed collar and rounded edges at the bottom of the fronts...  Maybe next time, when the next lot of fabric arrives...
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Acorn on November 05, 2017, 22:27:17 PM
That is lovely.   0_0
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 06, 2017, 12:46:17 PM
Ok, FINISHED!!!  Quite pleased with it, as it's my first ever wool coat  :)
It looks red in the pics, but it is a fuchsia pink, and I didn't show you the lovely pink lining did I?

My new lot of tartan fabric arrived this morning - the red bits are glittery, so may save it for the sew along.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Madame Cholet on November 06, 2017, 12:59:54 PM
Oh wonderful, your coat is lovely, and the pink lining looks luscious  0_0 and the new fabric is fab too!  0_0 0_0
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Miss Blossom on November 06, 2017, 16:39:31 PM
That's gorgeous! I must say you're very brave-I made a coat in a tiny check will a couple of years ago and spent so long matching the pattern of has put me off seeing checks for life!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: SkoutSews on November 06, 2017, 18:42:03 PM
Always good when a plan turns out as well as that. The extra overlap (which isn't noticeable, BTW, only saying because you mentioned it) will be extra cosy for the colder weather.
I like the length, it'll be a useful coat too.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Goth Gardiner on November 06, 2017, 21:51:48 PM
I think it is beautiful and there is absolutely nothing to concern yourself about the side seams.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 06, 2017, 21:57:02 PM
Thank you everyone for your lovely comments - I'm just needing an opportunity to wear it now, I thought it might be overkill for walking the dog.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Tamnymore on November 06, 2017, 21:59:07 PM
How about a matching coat for the dog then the two of you could step out in style!  :D :woof:
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 06, 2017, 22:16:34 PM
How about a matching coat for the dog then the two of you could step out in style!  :D :woof:
Haha, now there's a thought  :D
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Sandra on November 06, 2017, 22:16:58 PM
That's a lovely coat...I'm very impressed by how quickly you got on with it.

And I love the lining...it always pleases me to see someone has put 'special' lining, (or facings) in something.

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Fabric Lover on November 07, 2017, 08:12:10 AM
You’ve made a great job of your coat, well done.
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Mocarroll on November 09, 2017, 15:26:40 PM
Well, that’s given me the kick up the b** I need. How quick were you making your lovely coat, well done! I started the very same one way last winter. By spring still not finished and lovely summer fabrics were calling me so said coat was shoved in the wardrobe. You have shamed me into getting it out again, all it needs is shoulder pads, lining attached and buttons stitched on. Watch this space!
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on November 09, 2017, 16:14:37 PM
Looking forward to seeing the pics Mocarroll  0_0
When I start making something, I do like to get on with it.  Often because I have another piece of lovely fabric I want to get on to  :P
Title: Re: Tartan/check coat, Vogue 8933 or Butterick 6497...
Post by: Vegegrow on November 10, 2017, 14:15:46 PM
Looking forward to seeing the pics Mocarroll  0_0
When I start making something, I do like to get on with it.  Often because I have another piece of lovely fabric I want to get on to  :P

Oh aren't you meant to have several things on the go at the same time  :[ :ninja:  :devil: